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Rebuilding Walker 882 ram ?

arch stanton

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Oct 13, 2013
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Hello I have ordered the seal kit for a Walker 882 ram that I am going to repair does anyone have a specific sequence or order to dismantling the ram?

Thanks

Joe
 
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arch stanton

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Should the end look like the picture or am I missing something? This looks like it has been apart with a pipe wrench before

2h702kw.jpg
 

kenfain

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Pipe wrench, and a punch most likely. That seems the most common method. Although not the best, it works. But then it needed new slots cut.
Looking at the picture, it doesn't appear to be missing anything. Sorry I can't help with the disassembly, I stopped after the tiny pin fell out of the ram. But then I knew that I would have the ram professionally rebuilt. Seemed like a good stopping point.
 
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arch stanton

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Looks like my kit will be here tomorrow already so this weekend I will attack it.
 
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arch stanton

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Yeah I saw the sticky with the socket made for removal just seemed like something was missing from the end is all I have spoke with Hiball he steered me to the seal kit
 

Hiball

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When dealing with Jacks from this era, or really any Jack needing repair its always advisable to inspect internals prior to purchasing a kit. Now.. Yes someone has been rough with the tank nut on your Jack, Pipe wrenches and punches are a No.No.. if you damage the seam between the tank nut and the reservoir it can be a bear to re-seal. Punches? They not Only damage the spanner grooves, it's possible, and I have had customers bring there tank nuts in multiple pieces. I not trying to be a ***.. But the 882 is a fairly complex Jack, if the tank nut and inner compression nut is puzzling you, I would reccomend studying a exploded view diagram and familiarizing yourself with the components prior to proceeding. I'll get you started, the inner compression nut shouldn't be too tight, based off how proud it is, unless it has some extra packing, I always remove it first, then remove the actual tank nut.

Steven
 
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arch stanton

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Ok so how do I get the exploded view I have one that is barely readable looks hand drawn. Thanks for the assistance
 

Hiball

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Ok so how do I get the exploded view I have one that is barely readable looks hand drawn. Thanks for the assistance

I'm not sure which one you have, but unfortunately drawings/diagrams from that era just aren't too good. If you can source a early j132/93655 diagram, it will be semi close in regards to components. I'll attach a link below from lazzars.

Exploded View diagram.
 
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arch stanton

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Took a bit more off today. Looks like the pipe wrench was used on the ram assembly as well don't think it will matter only the inner counts? also lots of Loctite was used
v7yxaa.jpg

swbz7s.jpg
 
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arch stanton

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I have removed everything now except for the ram cylinder. Does it need to come off? Cant tell if anything is behind it for a seal or its just metal to metal. I applied heat with no luck.

Thanks
Joe
 

Hiball

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I have removed everything now except for the ram cylinder. Does it need to come off? Cant tell if anything is behind it for a seal or its just metal to metal. I applied heat with no luck.

Thanks
Joe

Id leave it alone, Metal to a metal IRC and torqued down considerable from the factory.
 
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arch stanton

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What about the ball bearings in the rear casters are they supposed to be sloppy? They seem sloppy like they both could take one more ball bearing and there is no grease in there as well. I may just leave that alone if its fine cant really see any room for one to fall out. I will start putting the ram back together tomorrow
 

cubfarm 1

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Jan 16, 2011
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A drum brake hone works well to go over the tube for the ram. You will need to work with the leather cup for the ram to soften the outer edge. Oil will let you "work" it and get the cup started into the bore. Don't spoil the leading edge when installing it. Only great reason for removing the pressure tube is to install the ram from the bottom so that the cup is traveling the "easy" way. If you dent in the tube with a pipe wrench a new or used one is very tough to find.
that tank nut needs to be really tight to seal in the fluid but those pipe wrench marks are not good. It is very easy to deform the lip that the tank rests against.
.
 
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