Receiver Hitch Pin Hole Repair

[zmotorsports]

If anyone is interested I have a documented article pertaining to the common problem of the trailer hitch receiver pin hole being elongated. It is a link to an RV forum that I participate in and I thought if anyone was having a similar issue that this may be of some assistance.

Mike.

http://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/25280003.cfm

 

[drive em]

Nice job.

 

[PassnThru]

I've towed with a Chevy, Toyota, and Ford. They all had a somewhat sloppy hitch. Maybe this one was worse but a little clunk was always part of the game. At what point does the clunk become excessive?

 

[chris fresh]

nice idea if you own a lathe.

 

[Griff93]

I need to do this to the one on my F350. Thanks for the how to.

 

[jhelrey]

The new Chevys are bad because they have sleeves also!

 

[GN4WHLN]

That would be a good thing to do prior to the hole becoming elongated.

 

[ptschram]

I seem to see far more where the hitch has rusted solid to the receiver.

 

[ibedayank]

I seem to see far more where the hitch has rusted solid to the receiver.

most be a yankee that lives up north...lol

 

[NUTTSGT]

I've towed with a Chevy, Toyota, and Ford. They all had a somewhat sloppy hitch. Maybe this one was worse but a little clunk was always part of the game. At what point does the clunk become excessive?

When the safety chains get tight !


Honestly, this is a smart idea and would probably help out those that tow all the time.

 

[NUTTSGT]

most be a yankee that lives up north...lol

Exactly why I will not leave mine in the receiver. I left it in for 2 weeks once and had to knock it out with a 3lb sledge.

 

[ForceFed70]

You should start selling the bushings. Most of us dont have the equipment to make them ourselves and I would certainly buy a set if I needed to do this kind of repair.

 

[scott37300]

I have one of these and it eliminated the clunking and hard jerks when starting out, http://www.awdirect.com/cushioned-6...SEPLA&CID=AWSEPLA&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=DK59.

 

[rpmgroup]

i drilled a 5/8 hole on the bottom of the tube and welded a 1/2 nut over the hole. after i install my receiver i run a 1/2 bolt up against the receiver and use a jam nut to secure it. no up and down, or back and forth movement.

 

[Ign]

i drilled a 5/8 hole on the bottom of the tube and welded a 1/2 nut over the hole. after i install my receiver i run a 1/2 bolt up against the receiver and use a jam nut to secure it. no up and down, or back and forth movement.

I don't see this as a good idea for any appreciable tongue weight. If anything you want the draw bar DOWN in the hitch, ie the direction in which gravity and tongue weight want to pull it.

If you push the draw bar UP with a bolt it's going to try to pivot on that bolt.

 

[Ign]

Also I've considered a very similar repair on my tractor's blade. It's just a manual adjust for the angle and of course the holes that are used the most are severely wallowed - plus the pin is only in single shear in this application.

I was thinking of making bushings from 304 stainless as I have a ton of it in solid round stock. I'd think this would be an excellent choice as stainless is so tough. Of course it's not ideal to weld it to black but on bushings like this the welds are not that critical.