Receiver hitch tube, adding hole and strength?

[wrenchMONKEY_]

I am going to be building a rear bumper for the truck and incorporating a hitch into it. I dont tow often, but would still like to retain the capability to tow the trucks limit when needed (6500lbs)

The design of the bumper is similar to this; the mounting plate that go through the bumper will be 3/8 and the rectangle will be 2x5 3/16.

I want to avoid this;

I am going to use some 2x12 hitch tubing, probably cut down to around 9 or so, and pick one up from my local Princess Auto. I have some 6's on my welding table and I measured it, 3/16 thickness, which seems about the norm. It seems like hitch tube is hitch tube, and the HF and PA ones look exactly the same. The "Class" assuming the metal thickness is the same, would be dependent on the design and weld.

Question One - I plan on getting this 2x12 Princess Auto which looks the same as the one from Harbour Freight Should I spring for one from Curt with presumably better metal, or will the HF/PA one do just fine?

Question Two - Any issues drilling a hole 2 inches further back so I won't have as tough a time putting the hitch pin in? All my draw bars are long enough that it won't affect anything, and to my knowledge pushing the ball closer to the axle won't affect tongue weight.

Will be gusseting it something like this, and all the prefab hitches with the re-enforcing collar don't have the hole more than 2.5in from the front face of the opening. I assume he made this one.

 

[beakie]

if you have the tow points that far away from the face of the bumper (which is normal)
why not have the hitch tube sticking out enough that the hole is on the outside of the bumper?

 

[Thumper68]

When I incorporate a hitch tube into a bumper I like to put the collar right up against the bumper and do my welding from the inside with another mounting point 4 to 6 inches back with the hitch pin hole between the 2 mounting points.

I figure that if I am building it into a bumper I do not want any more tube than is necessary protruding.

Are those shackle mounts in your drawing? If they are do not weld them directly to the bumper skin, weld them to another piece and weld that to the skin spreading the load out over a larger area.

Personally I don't think it matters where your receiver tube comes from, HF,PA or Curt it is all 2 1/2"x3/16" wall tube with no seem, just make sure that the support collar is tight and has good welds.

 

[Thumper68]

This video shows how I mount the tube.

This one shows some more.

 

[Griff93]

Why would he not want to weld those shackle mounts to the bumper skin? In his drawing, they appear to pass all the way through to the frame as a mount.

I don't see any issue with sticking the tube out as far as the shackle mounts. I have done this in the past with no issues. I would gusset the frame/shackle mounts to the 2x5 tubing especially for towing. Think about a dog wagging it's tail motion. That's what your trying to avoid.

 

[wrenchMONKEY_]

if you have the tow points that far away from the face of the bumper (which is normal)
why not have the hitch tube sticking out enough that the hole is on the outside of the bumper?

That would be easier, but I'd like to keep it as flush as possible. When I put the flush mount back up light in, aswell as the license plate, I think it will look more pleasing to the eye if its as flush as possible.

When I incorporate a hitch tube into a bumper I like to put the collar right up against the bumper and do my welding from the inside with another mounting point 4 to 6 inches back with the hitch pin hole between the 2 mounting points.

I figure that if I am building it into a bumper I do not want any more tube than is necessary protruding.

Are those shackle mounts in your drawing? If they are do not weld them directly to the bumper skin, weld them to another piece and weld that to the skin spreading the load out over a larger area.

Personally I don't think it matters where your receiver tube comes from, HF,PA or Curt it is all 2 1/2"x3/16" wall tube with no seem, just make sure that the support collar is tight and has good welds.

Yes, they are shackle mounts and also the main support for bumper. Thanks for the thoughts on the hitch tube material. Any thoughts on the drilling of another hitch pin hole? I plan to just use a 11/16 drill bit for the 5/8 pin.
Here is another picture to show what I intend on doing.

I see what your saying about spreading the load. I'll probably weld it on to the bumper skin, which at 3/16 I'd have no issues reyling on, but, I think I'l cut out two cover plates, 3/16 and 2 inches past on either side and weld it over ontop to just help spread the load out a bit.

 

[readhead]

How about making a recess in the back of the bumper for the pin. On one bumper I built I used a piece of 1x2 channel about 6" long and made a recess next to the pin hole for clearance to slide the pin in and out. I was able to keep everything flush on the face.

 

[Nor'Easter]

I called Curt about a year ago asking if I needed to fully weld the collar to the tube and if it would increase the shear resistance on the lower portion of the tube. The guy I spoke to was quick to say "No" and then told me that the collar is not for strength but rather to protect the tube itself in case it is backed into something.

This is how I built the hitch for my Power Wagon, the rear crossmember is 4x6ish 3/16" wall.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I think that bumper is going to be stronger than the frame it mounted to.

Don't get me wrong, it's cool as hell.

 

[McLean]

IDK about the receiver tube at Princess Auto, but the tube from Harbor Freight is JUNK! No, literally. You would think that they couldn't screw up something this basic, but they did! I say this because it is super sloppy, lighter gauge than true receiver tube, has a seam, and it's powdercoated (only a downside if you're trying to weld to it).

(*Disclaimer- I dont hate everything at HF, just harboring some anger about the tube I guess. haha)

The Curt stuff is legit. And you can get it delivered to your door from amazon.

 

[brownbagg]

you can put the hole where ever you want it, it doesnt have to be against the bumper

 

[wrenchMONKEY_]

IDK about the receiver tube at Princess Auto, but the tube from Harbor Freight is JUNK! No, literally. You would think that they couldn't screw up something this basic, but they did! I say this because it is super sloppy, lighter gauge than true receiver tube, has a seam, and it's powdercoated (only a downside if you're trying to weld to it).

(*Disclaimer- I dont hate everything at HF, just harboring some anger about the tube I guess. haha)

The Curt stuff is legit. And you can get it delivered to your door from amazon.

Its probably the same, they both look to have the same re-enforcement collar around the tube and its powdercoated.

I'll probably pony up the $30 bucks to get one from Curt. They have a Dist Warehouse just up the road.

Going to pick up the tube tomorrow and then start building throughout the week.

 

[Fcvapor05]

If you're welding it into the bumper, why even bother buying a premade receiver tube? Just get yourself a piece of 2 1/2", 3/16" wall DOM square tube and fab it flush to the bumper skin.

The collar on a prefab receiver tube is there to prevent the wall of the tube from kinking if you back into something without a drawbar in place. It has no effect on the ability of the tube to tow anything.

Do yourself a favor though- your receiver tube should ideally have a second mounting point further back (closer to the axle). My suggestion would be to fabricate a bracket that connects the axle-side end of the receiver tube to something structural, like a frame cross member.

 

[mustange70]

Get your reciever tubing from a steel supply store, its 2.0 ID with the seam ground flush (or you can buy it with a seam and die grind it out), you can also buy 1/4" wall. It will also be cheaper per foot as well.

 

[wrenchMONKEY_]

If you're welding it into the bumper, why even bother buying a premade receiver tube? Just get yourself a piece of 2 1/2", 3/16" wall DOM square tube and fab it flush to the bumper skin.

The collar on a prefab receiver tube is there to prevent the wall of the tube from kinking if you back into something without a drawbar in place. It has no effect on the ability of the tube to tow anything.

Do yourself a favor though- your receiver tube should ideally have a second mounting point further back (closer to the axle). My suggestion would be to fabricate a bracket that connects the axle-side end of the receiver tube to something structural, like a frame cross member.

I can get the tubing from my steel supply shop for 9.40 a ft. Saves me $30 bucks going that way. I did kinda want the collar sticking out as this will be on a offroad vehicle and if it backed into a rock or slipped off something and hit it, I'd like the protection. However, mounting it flush with the 2x6 would make that a non issue. I was going to have it stick out just a 1/4 so I could get a good solid weld on the back side and having the collar would fix the kinking issue. Also, would let me drill my one and only hole at my depth that I'd want.


If I were to flush mount it, would you suggest having it stick out 1/8 in, welding it the bumper then grinding the tube and welds down flush, or welding it in flush then just grinding the welds down?

Yes, I'll use some 1.5 stock and brace it out to the frame mounts.

Get your reciever tubing from a steel supply store, its 2.0 ID with the seam ground flush (or you can buy it with a seam and die grind it out), you can also buy 1/4" wall. It will also be cheaper per foot as well.

Yes, I called. $9.40 a ft with seam ground out vs $37 with my discount for a 12" piece with a collar from Curt.

 

[Fcvapor05]

If I were to flush mount it, would you suggest having it stick out 1/8 in, welding it the bumper then grinding the tube and welds down flush, or welding it in flush then just grinding the welds down?

The way you do it is basically only affects cosmetics. Any of the ideas you've talked about would function just fine.

If it were me, I'd bevel the outside of the receiver tube approximately 1/2 the material thickness, weld the perimeter, and grind the weld flush to the bumper skin. Will look like you just punched a 2"x2" hole right through the outer tube if you do it right. Nice and clean.

Definitely make sure your intended drawbar fits in the tube properly before you weld anything.

 

[wrenchMONKEY_]

Well I got the steel this afternoon and the receiver tube. Only issue is that the 6x2 was marked .188, but after getting it home (re: carrying 12 ft of it in) it seems really heavy. I eyeballed it in the yard and seemed thick enough.

Turns out its .250 (1/4), not .188 (3/16). Not a big deal, but still, 17 lbs more than I need for my 6 ft piece I'll use. Not sure what to do.


I may just take it back and get the 3/16.

I am re-thinking my mounting plate thickness. I am wanting to go with something thicker. 3/4 now preferably, 5/8 to save money and 1/2 last resort, but thats not much better than 3/8. Depends what I can scrap up at work too vs buying at the steel store.

I could go with two pieces of 3/8 stacked, bevel the edges and weld them together to get the thickness I want, or, just use 3/8 from bumper to axle on the back side then double it up through the bumper to the front. However, 2ft of 3/4 will cost me $30-40. I have all the 3/8 I need, and I can plasma that stuff at my house. Cutting the 3/4, I'd need to do it at work if the plasma is working. My B size Oxy tank cant support cutting 3/4.

1'x5" 3/4 plate weights about 12.5 lbs each and I'd need two, so I am at 25 lbs for mounting and 74lbs (1/4) or 57lbs (3/16) for the bumper. From what I remember, the stock bumper and hitch is in around 110 lbs. So I'd be around the same or more. I'd rather have the thinner bumper with thicker mounting plates.

 

[sberry]

The 3/8 will be fine and all the gussets don't do anything in this case, it won't hurt but is just extra as they don't reduce the tube twist.

 

[kerrynzl]

The collar on a prefab receiver tube is there to prevent the wall of the tube from kinking if you back into something without a drawbar in place. It has no effect on the ability of the tube to tow anything.

.

********! The collar is there to stop the receiver from "flaring" at the end.

There is a bit of clearance between the receiver and the hitch so any vertical and sideways movement tries to hammer out a bell shape.

The myth about the tube from kinking if you back into something, was dreamed up by the "coffee boy at curt"
If you backed a receiver square on into something it wouldn't suffer any damage to itself ,but the rest of the hitch structure would probably get bent

 

[wrenchMONKEY_]

The receiver tube I ended up getting is .215 wall, pretty beefy. I'll flush mount it and call it a day.

As for the 3/8 plate, I feel a slide loaded pull on a 5500lb vehicle might put a bit of stress on it. I'll see what scraps I can find today.

 

[sberry]

As for the 3/8 plate, I feel a slide loaded pull on a 5500lb vehicle might put a bit of stress on it. I'll see what scraps I can find today.

There are others on here too that do this work regularly, I do this all the time, here the connection would be made with 1/4 plate, you are 50% over that. Look at connectors on step bumpers. Side load is not much of a concern here with the plates bolted to frame. The 3/4 would be needed for a 50 or 60 K truck,,, not one weighs 6.

I am re-thinking my mounting plate thickness. I am wanting to go with something thicker. 3/4 now preferably, 5/8 to save money and 1/2 last resort, but thats not much better than 3/8. Depends what I can scrap up at work too vs buying at the steel store.

Feeling and thinking is not really engineering. You want to save 17# on the tube where it would matter a bit in the event that the truck was 2x as heavy and then increase the plates 3x where it doesn't. We go from 3/4 to 1/2 and then add a statement that the 1/2 isn't much better than the 3/8 which it is.
Get thickness adequate and that you can cut, as I said, with the 2 bolts being so close to the tube this will not bend sideways and it would get 1/4 as it would if it was designed by an engineer. Look at the connectors on a class 3 hitch.

 

[ishiboo]

********! The collar is there to stop the receiver from "flaring" at the end.

There is a bit of clearance between the receiver and the hitch so any vertical and sideways movement tries to hammer out a bell shape.

100% agree.

 

[Fcvapor05]

********! The collar is there to stop the receiver from "flaring" at the end.

There is a bit of clearance between the receiver and the hitch so any vertical and sideways movement tries to hammer out a bell shape.

The myth about the tube from kinking if you back into something, was dreamed up by the "coffee boy at curt"
If you backed a receiver square on into something it wouldn't suffer any damage to itself ,but the rest of the hitch structure would probably get bent

Ok great.

So what you're saying is that if it's flush welded it doesn't matter. Got it.


I also agree that 3/8" flanges are wayyyy more than enough.

Not sure what grade of steel you're using but let's assume that it's on the low end (A36) and that your 3/8" plate is 4" wide.

Well.. A35 has a yield strength of 36,000 psi. which means you have 54,000 lbs of axial load capacity PER SIDE of your bumper.

Most every commercial aftermarket bumper I have ever seen for a truck is made from 3/16" plate. And those bumpers are all absolutely positively bomb proof.

Steel is strong. Don't over think it.

 

[wrenchMONKEY_]

Ok great.

So what you're saying is that if it's flush welded it doesn't matter. Got it.


I also agree that 3/8" flanges are wayyyy more than enough.

Not sure what grade of steel you're using but let's assume that it's on the low end (A36) and that your 3/8" plate is 4" wide.

Well.. A35 has a yield strength of 36,000 psi. which means you have 54,000 lbs of axial load capacity PER SIDE of your bumper.

Most every commercial aftermarket bumper I have ever seen for a truck is made from 3/16" plate. And those bumpers are all absolutely positively bomb proof.

Steel is strong. Don't over think it.

Thanks for all the input.

Yes, flush mounting the tube to the bumper, I don't see any issues with the draw bar wanting to flare out the end. I'll bevel the edges of the 6x2 and the 2in receiver tube and weld it in flush and the flap disc it flat. Should be plenty strong on the front side and gusseting it on the back side.

I am thinking I may just stick with the 6x2 in 1/4, A) because its only 15 lbs more and B) I don't really want to load it up and drive back to the steel shop hahhaa.

I got some 1/2 plate today. I'll use that for the mounting flanges. 1/2 plate plus two 3/16 cheek plates on either side where the D ring will mount will give me 7/8, good enough for a 3/4 shackle with a opening of 1 1/4 where the pin goes.

Yes, I am sure 3/8 would be plenty strong, but for aesthetics I think 1/2 will look better with minimal weight gain. The D ring mount will only stick out of the back side of the bumper by 3 inches MAX, and I don't think I'll have to much issues even with a side pull on a 6000lb vehicle with the D ring going straight to the frame and through the rectangle tube. (Will be about 12in long and 5 in wide for each)

I'll be sure to put up some pictures when I start building.

 

[joe49]

What is your reasoning for mounting the receiver flush, making it more difficult to use, including safety chains? While still hanging pad-eyes and shackles.

 

[wrenchMONKEY_]

What is your reasoning for mounting the receiver flush, making it more difficult to use, including safety chains? While still hanging pad-eyes and shackles.

No real reason. Looks a bit more aesthetically pleasing. I don't see how it would be that much harder to use? I'll be drilling my own hole for my pin so, that's not an issue. I don't want to have the pin hole towards the trailer, I'd like it on the backside towards the axle.

Most tubes I've seen have the pin hole around 2 - 2.5 inches from the face of the tube. Like in one of the pictures I' put up above, the pre-fab'd tube had the pin hole right near the back of the 2x6, and he flush mounted it. If I were to have it stick out say 1/2 towards the rear (trailer end) then I'd have to drill my hole around the 3 inch mark to make it a non pain the ***, and may make it a bit to long for some things (like my 2in shackle mount for the receiver tube) However, now with this design and two mounts on the rear, that may be a non issue now.

Yes, I agree, with my design, the whole rear face of the bumper won't be completely flush, so why bother flush mounting the receiver tube? Perhaps I'll have it stuck out about a inch. Would give me more welding surface, I can fab up a collar to protect the end of the tube and may look a bit more equal with the two things sticking out on the sides and one in the center.

My draw bar has the pin around 3-4 inches IIRC, so it would be a non issue.

Anyways, I hardly tow at this point in my life. However, Id still like to keep the full ability to tow my max if needed.

When I get the holes cut and start mocking it up, I'll see what happens and make a decision from there.

Now, if I don't flush mount it, do I need a collar on my .215 wall tubing? If so, suggestions on what to make it out of? Or just stick it out 1/2 from the face of the bumper, put a nice thick TIG/MIG weld on it to burn it in and call that my collar?

 

[Nor'Easter]

********! The collar is there to stop the receiver from "flaring" at the end.

Ok, so collar keeps the tube from flaring. Good.

There is a bit of clearance between the receiver and the hitch so any vertical and sideways movement tries to hammer out a bell shape.

Wait a sec, I thought the collar prevented flaring?

So which one is it?

 

[joseph.a.owens.9]

So which one is it?

There the same thing................

Sent from my SM-G530R4 using Tapatalk

 

[kerrynzl]

Quote:
Originally Posted by kerrynzl View Post
********! The collar is there to stop the receiver from "flaring" at the end.

Ok, so collar keeps the tube from flaring. Good.

There is a bit of clearance between the receiver and the hitch so any vertical and sideways movement tries to hammer out a bell shape.

Wait a sec, I thought the collar prevented flaring?

So which one is it?

read it properly , before you make an *** out of yourself.

For pedantic simpletons that cant grasp basic English.
"Because of the hitch movement [caused by clearances]hammering it out.
The collar is used to prevent flaring"

 

[Fcvapor05]

Quote:
Originally Posted by kerrynzl View Post
********! The collar is there to stop the receiver from "flaring" at the end.

Ok, so collar keeps the tube from flaring. Good.

There is a bit of clearance between the receiver and the hitch so any vertical and sideways movement tries to hammer out a bell shape.

Wait a sec, I thought the collar prevented flaring?

read it properly , before you make an *** out of yourself.

For pedantic simpletons that cant grasp basic English.
"Because of the hitch movement [caused by clearances]hammering it out.
The collar is used to prevent flaring"

Jesus. Take a deep breath. Or count to ten. Or something.

It's all going to be OK.

 

[Nor'Easter]

Quote:
Originally Posted by kerrynzl View Post
********! The collar is there to stop the receiver from "flaring" at the end.

Ok, so collar keeps the tube from flaring. Good.

There is a bit of clearance between the receiver and the hitch so any vertical and sideways movement tries to hammer out a bell shape.

Wait a sec, I thought the collar prevented flaring?







read it properly , before you make an *** out of yourself.

For pedantic simpletons that cant grasp basic English.
"Because of the hitch movement [caused by clearances]hammering it out.
The collar is used to prevent flaring"

Do you feel powerful now?

 

[kerrynzl]

Do you feel powerful now?

To be honest, I don't give a ****!

This world is full of insignificant mediocre people who's only self gradification is trying to twist things around and trying to trip people up to make themselves look big

 

[HOTFR8]

Do we really need the arguments? I was enjoying this topic until it got nasty.