Receptacle cracks- diagnose?

[Kuma601]

This was the receptacle behind the toaster oven when we went to clean behind the oven today. Scared me to see this and I was thinking that with cracks there would be scorch or similar signs of heat discoloration. The wires in the box felt a bit tacky but the insulator appeared fine, no signs of high heat or arcing. The back of the receptacle clean. The contractor had back stabbed this one and it is about 14 years old. The lower one is the one in use so why the top cracked is also? Cut back about 3/4" and used the screw terminals this time.

What is your diagnosis on what happened?

 

[mike93lx]

You reinstalled that receptacle?

Looks like a poor quality plastic to me

 

[Firebrick43]

Cheap receptacle. The fact that its back stabbed verifies it. There is no such thing as a high quality back stab receptacle.

 

[Jim greengo]

Somebody probably yanked the cord out of it sideways.

 

[BillK]

Old age and probably a cheap builders grade to begin with.

 

[nadogail]

Your most expensive receptacle will be the one that was sold for the lowest price.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

cheap-*** back-stabbed receptacle. need i say more?

 

[Kuma601]

Thanks! That receptacle has the 1800 watt toaster oven attached to it. The receptacle was part of a bulk contractor pack from Cooper Electric when the kitchen was done. There were some left over from the remodel so it was replaced with a fresh one. She does use it for some baking so the oven is going at 30+ minute intervals at times. A GFCI or GFCI/AFCI version will be swapped in soon. I didn't want that one there in that type of condition.

These budget parts can be scary. Seeing it like that was

 

[Shiftless]

At the very least, if you MUST use that kind of receptacle rather than buying a better one, is to NOT use the back stab connections but instead use the normal, “wrap the wire around the screw and tighten it up“ method of connecting to your house wiring.
Don’t all the of back stab connector receptacles also have screws on the side?

 

[quickfarms]

There are two types of back stab connectors

the cheap ones use a spring to retain the wire and belong in the trash

the good ones clamp the wire between a washer under the screw and a metal plate and this attachment is better than just the screw

 

[wyliesdiesels]

There are two types of back stab connectors

the cheap ones use a spring to retain the wire and belong in the trash

the good ones clamp the wire between a washer under the screw and a metal plate and this attachment is better than just the screw

incorrect. those receptacles types are not the cheapo "push-wire" terminals aka back-stabbed type, they are called "back-wire" and are very expensive (~$5ea @ home depot).

the spec-grade receptacles that are cheaper than the back-wired ones, also dont have the "push-wire" terminals and are called "side-wired". they have a plate underneath the screw that allows one to simply insert the wire under the plate and tighten the screw. this is different than the back-wired ones in that the screw doesnt **** the plate into the wire inside the wire hole, it just pushes the plate down onto the wire.

 

[yatg]

Don’t all the of back stab connector receptacles also have screws on the side?

Maybe now, but I've run into really cheap ones with just stab holes in the back.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Maybe now, but I've run into really cheap ones with just stab holes in the back.

those are the really old ones.

 

[Norcal]

Back in the 60's & 70's, there were back wire only receptacles, some accepted 8 conductors, 4-hots, 4-neutrals, they had a little more robust brass tabs that captured the conductors then today's push and pray models, still can't beat pressure plates for terminating receptacles for quality, and people can whine and snivel, flop themselves on the floor pounding their fists & kicking their legs in a tantrum, you buy a tract home or cheap spec home, still going to get cheap back stabbed devices, it's the nature of the beast, if it lasts beyond the warranty period, it did good & most do, it's a get it done cheap & quick then be gone thing.

 

[Showkey]

Cracked front and back stab wire connection are two completely different issues/problem.*

Pull or load the plug sideways often enough or with excessive torque the very best outlet will fail/crack the face. Especially common in hallways where the vacuum might be plugged in.

*Yes, low cost, poor quality outlets often more than one problem.

 

[cybrdyke]

Plugs pulled from the side...I'm guilty of pulling on the vacuum cleaner cord to unplug it.
Pushing things into the receptacle while there's a plug in it...happens when moving furniture, etc.
Using a commercial grade receptacle that's got a "too tight" grip...some folks have to wiggle the cord to get it to unplug.
Also, some receptacle faces and wall plates are made from nylon. Nylon dries out over time (ever seen a zip tie that's 20 years old?), making it easy to crack.
CD

 

[alfredeneuman]

Back in the 60's & 70's, there were back wire only receptacles, some accepted 8 conductors, 4-hots, 4-neutrals,

They were also made to accept #12 and #14 wire. (and didn't fit either well)
After enough failures occurred....#14 only

 

[tipsy]

Also possible that being so close to the toaster oven will heat the plastic. Enough cycles of that over the years and the plastic is gonna be brittle.

 

[mike93lx]

Also possible that being so close to the toaster oven will heat the plastic. Enough cycles of that over the years and the plastic is gonna be brittle.

If the receptacle is getting that hot, your cabinet above would be on fire

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Also possible that being so close to the toaster oven will heat the plastic. Enough cycles of that over the years and the plastic is gonna be brittle.

Ive got outlets that are within inches of a very hot toaster oven and they dont exabit this behavior. something else is up

 

[Kuma601]

What I'm going to do next time she fires the toaster oven up for some baking is take a temp reading of the receptacle after she's pulled the goodies out. My suspicion is that the prior toaster oven was the initial cause. It may have generated enough heat but not an excessive amount that would bring on a melt-burn scenario. Enough cycles and it could be a contributing factor accelerating the plastic to dry-crack like that. The examples I see online show burnt receptacles with cracks. This receptacle pictured was 14 years old. The house has some originals dating back to the build in '68.

The remodel box looks as if it were new. The wall cover plate is clean as well.

Appreciate the insights.

 

[engineer2]

If it says "Made in China" on it, you've identified the problem.
For as cheap as they are, get a news one and inspect all the others that might be the same kind.

 

[jagwinn]

Astronaut John Glenn is supposed to have said: "My life depended on 150,000 pieces of equipment - each bought from the lowest bidder."

 

[billconner]

I'm with tipsy - radiant heat from back of toaster oven at least part of it.

 

[Firebrick43]

those are the really old ones.

I ran across back stab only receptacles in houses built in the early 2000's.

 

[Miss the Pontiacs]

I thought I seen Eagle on the metal. I looked on the net, I did find Cooper Eagle mentioned. Possibly their low end receptacle. I would redo the back stab on screw terminal replace at least replace the damaged ones.

 

[dogdog]

Thanks! That receptacle has the 1800 watt toaster oven attached to it. The receptacle was part of a bulk contractor pack from Cooper Electric when the kitchen was done. There were some left over from the remodel so it was replaced with a fresh one. She does use it for some baking so the oven is going at 30+ minute intervals at times. A GFCI or GFCI/AFCI version will be swapped in soon. I didn't want that one there in that type of condition.

These budget parts can be scary. Seeing it like that was

Buy the commercial version of that for 50% more worth the price. Contractors will use the cheapest grade they can buy bulk price.

 

[Kuma601]

She did roasting session so took the IR to see what and where heat is venting on this particular oven. The oven has a partial vent on the right rear which is just offset from the receptacle by a couple inches. Took the IR across the back wall to see what readings came up when the elements are drawing power/glowing. From left to right it was 101F-117F. The receptacle measure at 117F. Pulled the oven forward to give it more airspace and it dropped to 110F.

I'll update to a better receptacle.