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Receptacles. 15 or 20 amp for shop?

Codyboy

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Well which? I've always favored 20a as in my mind I feel they are more robust and able to withstand more abuse. But I don't know really.

I will be using self grounding as it was recommended in another thread. That's so I don't have to ground each one and can just ground the metal 4x4 box.

And which brand do yall prefer?
 
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wyliesdiesels

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Well which? I've always favored 20a as in my mind I feel they are more robust and able to withstand more abuse. But I don't know really.
the 20a are not more robust than the 15a spec grade receptacles. Im not sure why so many people think this or where they get this info but its not true.

unless you have utilization equipment that has 20a plugs, you dont need 20a receptacles.
I will be using self grounding as it was recommended in another thread. That's so I don't have to ground each one and can just ground the metal 4x4 box.

And which brand do yall prefer?
spec grade in any brand. i typically use leviton since thats what the big orange box carries
 
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sparky 1971

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Agree with above. Spec grade 15 amp at whatever box store you go to stock. I use P&S Legrand, but that's what Menards and the supply house I frequent carry.
 
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Codyboy

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the 20a are not more robust than the 15a. Im not sure why so many people think this or where they get this info but its not true.

unless you have utilization equipment that has 20a plugs, you dont need 20a receptacles.

spec grade in any brand. i typically use leviton since thats what the big orange box carries
Yeah idk why I think the 20a may be more heavy duty.
Probably one of those old folklores from when I was a kid.
Lowes doesn't carry anything but Eaton brand.
The ones I got have self grounding and backwire (not stab)
The light switches i could not find the self ground if they even make that.
So you probably know what I'm thinking next.
The frame of the switches is all metal and although it doesn't say self grounding, wouldn't it do the same as the receptacle?
Ground the metal box, screw the device to the cover and screw it to the box.
 

u2slow

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I like to keep my lighting separate on #14 wire.

I tend to use MWBC's for 20A receptacle circuits.

The actual 'better' receptacles I prefer have a continuous metal back strap from top to bottom. Usually spec or commercial grade are built like this.

I also prefer running the bare bond wire to all my receptacles.
 
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Codyboy

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I like to keep my lighting separate on #14 wire.

I tend to use MWBC's for 20A receptacle circuits.

The actual 'better' receptacles I prefer have a continuous metal back strap from top to bottom. Usually spec or commercial grade are built like this.

I also prefer running the bare bond wire to all my receptacles.
The lighting is on its own 14awg circuits.
The outlets specify commercial grade.

I was saying that the switches don't indicate self or automatic grounding like the receptacles do.
But since it has a metal frame and its screwed to a steel box ...seems like the same thing.

For a switch or even 2 gang sure not a huge deal to run a pigtail ground to each.
But for 3, 4 or more gang boxes thats a ton of ground wires to shove in a box.
 

u2slow

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I was saying that the switches don't indicate self or automatic grounding like the receptacles do.
Switches didn't have ground/bond tabs until recently. I omit the connection out of habit.

Actually, most of my switches are old old stock or used, so there isn't a connection to be made at all.
 
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Codyboy

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Switches didn't have ground/bond tabs until recently. I omit the connection out of habit.

Actually, most of my switches are old old stock or used, so there isn't a connection to be made at all.
Recently like 20 years ago?
All of my switches that I installed personally 20 years ago when we built the house have a ground lug.
But like you, I never connected them to the ground wire.
 

u2slow

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Recently like 20 years ago?
All of my switches that I installed personally 20 years ago when we built the house have a ground lug.
But like you, I never connected them to the ground wire.
Heh maybe. Haven't done new or resi construction in 15 years anyway.

It struck me as an odd addition as there's no metallic portion exposed when a proper cover plate is used.
 

Toolmanjim

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Well which? I've always favored 20a as in my mind I feel they are more robust and able to withstand more abuse. But I don't know really.

I will be using self grounding as it was recommended in another thread. That's so I don't have to ground each one and can just ground the metal 4x4 box.

And which brand do yall prefer?
Mine all 12 are 20Amp.
 

pbon

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I used Leviton Plus Pro Heavy Duty 20 amp gray outlets, non TR, on 20a breakers with 12 gauge wiring.
 

nadogail

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the 20a are not more robust than the 15a. Im not sure why so many people think this or where they get this info but its not true.

unless you have utilization equipment that has 20a plugs, you dont need 20a receptacles.

spec grade in any brand. i typically use leviton since thats what the big orange box carries
Avoid the lowest price electrical items, they seem to be built to meet the lowest possible price and quality points.

When faced with Good, Better or Best, most of the time I choose the Better option.
 

rharman

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You've mentioned metal box and self-grounding devices. Are you sure the boxes are actually grounded?
 

Norcal

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32 years ago when my shop was built used 20A Hubbell receptacles because I had them, not once has a 20A plug been inserted in any of them, a quality 15A is fine & will free up funds to be used elsewhere.
 
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wyliesdiesels

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I used Leviton Plus Pro Heavy Duty 20 amp gray outlets, non TR, on 20a breakers with 12 gauge wiring.
🤑🤑🤑🤑

 

PCustoms

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OP
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Codyboy

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You've mentioned metal box and self-grounding devices. Are you sure the boxes are actually grounded?
Yes once I put the green screws in and wrap the ground wire around it . Yes. And for redundancy they're screwed to a red iron all welded steel building and the panel is screwed to that also.
 

wyliesdiesels

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How does that help protect against shocks due to ground faults?
That isnt content being pulled from the home depot page. I think its the forum pulling it from another source to make the preview tile.

@Ryan do you have any control over where your forum pulls content from for preview tiles?
 

Ryan

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That isnt content being pulled from the home depot page. I think its the forum pulling it from another source to make the preview tile.

@Ryan do you have any control over where your forum pulls content from for preview tiles?

I do not... the preview comes from the source, not me.
 

PCustoms

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The 3rd party redirector that creates rhe link is probably using an Ai tool to generate the text.

If you look at the link path, it's running through "skim resources"

LOL

I know Ryan gets some benefits out of the links, but man do they cause headaches on our ends at times
 

pbon

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🤑🤑🤑🤑

I bought in bulk 8 years ago. They did cost more than the least expensive 20A, but I wanted to make my home shop nice. It also has drywall, AC, heat, a nice floor, nice cabinets, a lot of LED lights, etc. I had the money and don’t expect to do this again in my lifetime.
 

Model A Fan

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15A duplex outlets on 20A circuit fed by 12/2.

Do we need another thread about 15A vs. 20A receptacle?
😅 😅 😅 Why do I feel like this is my fault? 😅😅😅🤣

As for the OP, here's what prompted the previous thread I started. Orange was thought to be isolated ground until the outlet was seen. I didn't care about color, just cost, as I want LOTS of outlets/receptacles. I also didn't want "no name" brand or some "Amazon" brand that you can't find anything about them anywhere else. The GFCIs did happen to be made in China unfortunately. The receptacles are US made.

For the price, this is about half the cost compared to Home Depot.



GFCIs I bought that came out to be $5.40 each. Out of stock, but 15A GFCIs will work on a 20A circuit and protect everything just the same, you just can't plug a 20A plug into them.

 
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