Recessed lighting

[dink]

Whats your thoughts on recessed lighting just over the toolchests and work benches with a separate light switch then just keep regular shop lighting over the rest of the garage

With non flourescent lighting over the work area but with flourescent lighting over the cars

So instead of having to turn on all the lights in the garage to get to the work area you can use specific lighting for this and save your electricity bill

 

[kartracer55]

Nah just do some flourescents... they dont draw any power really.

 

[dink]

But it would look cooler though....a way to present the goods ya know

 

[TOMWELDS]

If you decide to put in some high hats, use halogen bulbs. You'll love the clarity of the light. One tip with these lights, if the ceiling is low (8') and you're working under them, they get very hot.

 

[dink]

If you decide to put in some high hats, use halogen bulbs. You'll love the clarity of the light. One tip with these lights, if the ceiling is low (8') and you're working under them, they get very hot.

Thanks bro I will put it in my notes on that

 

[kartracer55]

Halognes do get kinda toasty... those 500watt portable spot lights can get really warm. Not to mention bright as fawk! The ncie thign about flourescents is that you wont be blind for 10 minutes when you look at them, like you would a halogen.

jim

 

[TOMWELDS]

I like halogen because its a white light. But damn hot!

 

[johnnywhale]

High hats all the way.

 

[vettescout]

Prefer flourescents, especially t8's, and you can get in a whole bunch of kelvin temperature ranges (colors) to suit your needs

 

[kartracer55]

Yeah, my garage has T8's because it can get pretty cold here. They start up instantly, even when Im wearing my heavy jacket and 4 layers of clothing because its so cold.

Jim

 

[Stuart in MN]

Fluorescents are good for general lighting through the rest of the space, but mixing in a couple incandescents for task or accent lighting isn't a bad idea. I have a couple recessed can incandescent lights over my workbench for task lighting, and I like them. You can get floods, spots, or the eyeball kind that you can aim where you need them. If you put them in an insulated ceiling, get the kind that are rated for direct contact with the insulation.

 

[TOMWELDS]

Just a note: the one's for insulation are 100watt max (if that's enough). The regular one's are 150 watt max. You can build a sheetrock box around the fixture to keep the insulation off the fixture. Maintain 3" clearance on all sides.

 

[dink]

Just a note: the one's for insulation are 100watt max (if that's enough). The regular one's are 150 watt max. You can build a sheetrock box around the fixture to keep the insulation off the fixture. Maintain 3" clearance on all sides.

3"??? is this so it doesnt catch the sheet rock on fire or what???

 

[kartracer55]

Yeah... halogen bulbs get hot as hell... ever touch the protective cage around a halogen spot light? after a botu 10 minutes of the light being on, it will burn you pretty good.

 

[dink]

Yeah... halogen bulbs get hot as hell... ever touch the protective cage around a halogen spot light? after a botu 10 minutes of the light being on, it will burn you pretty good.

I think 4 inches would be better with insulation completely covering it

 

[VPRKLR]

If you want halogen recessed, use 4" cans with 50 watt mr16 lamps. There are about 8 different beam spreads and un like par 20/par 30 medium base 120v halogen lamps, the heat goes out the back of the lamp, so they are cooler and much better looking than a 6" hole in your ceiling.

 

[dink]

If you want halogen recessed, use 4" cans with 50 watt mr16 lamps. There are about 8 different beam spreads and un like par 20/par 30 medium base 120v halogen lamps, the heat goes out the back of the lamp, so they are cooler and much better looking than a 6" hole in your ceiling.

Thanks Joe I will remember that