Reciprocating Saw for Tree Roots

[Wamsutta]

I need to get one. I need to dig a 50'L x 5'D x 4'W trench and there's going to be a lot of tree roots. I estimate to smallest tree root will be 4'' in diameter on up to 12'' in diameter closer to the trunk. You guessed it, it's time for a new sewer line.

Just a few questions:
1. Can I use the Diablo 9'' and 12'' pruning blades?
2. Do I need orbital cutting action?
3. Which cutting stroke? 3/4'', 1-1/8'', or 1-1/4'' ?

I was thinking about getting the Milwaukee 6519-31 Sawzall, but it does not have orbital.

 

[Mavawreck]

I've used the diablo pruning blades a good bit with my cordless Porter Cable and it has worked well for quick jobs (bush and limb removal) but struggled with diameters greater than 4". The saw itself is part of the problem but a proper chainsaw puts it to shame. I'm assuming you'd have better luck with the Milwaukee.

 

[jdlong]

Been there and done that. With those diameters, you'll be there forever with a pruning blade on a sawzall plus go through a lot of blades. Tree roots are burly nasty bastards and you'll be sucking up mud in your Sawzall. Take the blade money and spend 50 bucks on a Harbor Freight electric chain saw and toss it when you're done.

 

[bagged89s10]

I work for hilti and use a 1-1/8 stroke cordless recip saw with pruning blades with no problems. No need to get the orbital action but an orbital version will cut faster. Depends on your budget.

 

[VintageOkieDriver]

I used a rigid corded reciprocating saw to cut the roots when I put the toilet pipe in the ground for my pole barn / sharp. 4" no problem. Orbital cutting action helped. Pruning blades ok, demo blade seemed to work better for me. I used M or DW blades.
I don't know the stroke. However 12" ...pack a lunch. Chain saw? With this size of trench why not use a backhoe? That would break up roots as well.
Just my 2 cents.

 

[Todd.Brock]

I use my cordless Makita 18v sawzwall with the normal demolition blades. I had a pruning blade, but if I recall it's really thin and is easy to bend when it gets bent. A 12" root is going to be a ***** with anything. Assuming that Milwaukee is corded, you will probably be fine with it. I don't know what the orbital feature is, but the roots probably don't either.

Don't spend crazy money b/c it's gonna be muddy when it are done.

 

[kwoswalt99]

Ever heard of a grubbing axe?

 

[Kilgore Trout]

I cut down an entire dogwood with about a 16 inch trunk using a Milwaukee sawzall and pruning blades. Is a chain easier? Probably, but I already had the saw and the blades are cheap. Only took two blades to cut down the tree and chop everything into small enough pieces so that the yard waste people would take it.

I also cut out azaela roots with it. Definitely hit 4 inches on that one, but not much more.

 

[WheelsNT]

First thing you need, if you don't have it already, is a cutter mattock, something like this: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-5-lb-Hardwood-Handle-Steel-Cutter-Mattock/50325435. The cutter cuts up-down and the mattock cuts left-right, so you don't have to walk around the root to get an angle. And you won't be dulling your saw blades on the small stuff. Even at the 4" size, you can go through them pretty quick with that.

Then, +1 on getting a backhoe. Depending on the tree species, the backhoe will just rip them out of the ground. Some of the more flexible species will just bend too much for the backhoe to break them off, and that's where you have to cut.

12", you're not doing that with a sawzall. Time for some kind of a chainsaw. The sawzall is convenient for maybe the 4-5-6" range, because you don't have to clear out all the rocks and dirt, it's a disposable blade. For me, above 6" I'd be reaching for the chainsaw.

On the sawzall, I would want orbital for this. And if you're buying the tool for this job, get what you need.

 

[bcradio]

Get lots of blades for this... they get dull quick in the dirt. Anything 3 inch and under use tree loppers to cut them

 

[Roberts210]

That will be difficult to do with a Sawzall. I used a large pair of loppers when we dug a trench for our water line.

 

[PugetDude]

12" bi-metal demolition blades do well on roots, even when they're buried.
A reciprocating saw will tolerate cuts on dirty roots and the occasional rock much better than a chainsaw.

I took out a couple of large stumps (30"+ diameter firs, posted pics of one of them here a while back), dug and cut most of the roots (some 12"+) with an old B&D Professional reciprocating saw, because it took too much cleaning to use the chainsaw.

Went through quite a few blades, but much better than stopping and sharpening the chainsaw every 15 minutes.

Of course, YMMV

 

[drink]

I need to get one. I need to dig a 50'L x 5'D x 4'W trench and there's going to be a lot of tree roots. I estimate to smallest tree root will be 4'' in diameter on up to 12'' in diameter closer to the trunk. You guessed it, it's time for a new sewer line.

Just a few questions:
1. Can I use the Diablo 9'' and 12'' pruning blades?
2. Do I need orbital cutting action?
3. Which cutting stroke? 3/4'', 1-1/8'', or 1-1/4'' ?

I was thinking about getting the Milwaukee 6519-31 Sawzall, but it does not have orbital.

Why don't you hire a backhoe operator to do the job? They can use a 48" bucket and be done with it quickly. Twelve inch tree roots are pretty big roots. Are you having to remove the trees?

 

[dadsEH]

Trees be dead!!

 

[Know Wosad]

I need to get one. I need to dig a 50'L x 5'D x 4'W trench and there's going to be a lot of tree roots. I estimate to smallest tree root will be 4'' in diameter on up to 12'' in diameter closer to the trunk. You guessed it, it's time for a new sewer line.

Just a few questions:
1. Can I use the Diablo 9'' and 12'' pruning blades?
2. Do I need orbital cutting action?
3. Which cutting stroke? 3/4'', 1-1/8'', or 1-1/4'' ?

I was thinking about getting the Milwaukee 6519-31 Sawzall, but it does not have orbital.

Go to home depot and buy 2 good machetes and a fine flat file. Grab two "undocumented individuals" out of the group out front and offer them $8/hr cash. Get out of the way. The roots will be gone on nothing flat

 

[zer0cell]

I used a Milwaukee 15amp super sawzall with orbital cutting and it worked well. The cordless one was not up to the challenge. I broke a few pruning blades though. Be prepared to have a few on hand.

 

[danwolfgang]

I need to dig a 50'L x 5'D x 4'W trench

Nobody else has mentioned it, so I'll ask: are these dimensions correct? Five foot deep and 4 foot wide and fifty foot long? That is a serious task.

I'm sure it could be done with a small- to medium-sized backhoe (such as attaches to a tractor) or a small mini excavator, but it's going to take a very long time. I'm guessing you're using some bigger machinery -- at the very least a full-size loader-backhoe or better yet an excavator (large mini, if not something full-size).

You may need a chainsaw to get through some roots, for sure. Anything the reciprocal saw can reasonably cut through, however, is likely not a challenge for an excavator with 3,000-4,000-5,000+ lbs of bucket breakout force.

 

[rlitman]

12" bi-metal demolition blades do well on roots, even when they're buried.
A reciprocating saw will tolerate cuts on dirty roots and the occasional rock much better than a chainsaw...

+1 Chainsaws will be destroyed by cutting in dirt. Sawzall blades wear more quickly in dirt, so I'd suggest you buy a carbide tipped demolition blade.
Something like this 5TPI blade would be ideal:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauke...-AX-SAWZALL-Blade-1-Pack-48-00-5227/300122020

It will FAR outlast a pruning blade, which is made from heat treated carbon steel, and is not up to cutting anything hard (dirt will dull it in seconds).

The catch to a demolition blade is that it isn't made for cutting green wood. You could try to add a little extra set to the teeth to compensate for this (be careful, as the carbide is brittle).

The longer the saw's stroke the better. The stroke is how the reciprocating saw removes chips (unlike a continuous chain). Once you start cutting something more than double the blade's stroke, cutting speed rapidly diminishes as chips get stuck in the cut, blocking the teeth.

Orbital action helps with this. YES, you really want orbital action.

 

[Git]

I have used the Milwaukee 12" pruning blades and they work great - remember, you need to get the wood chips and debris to clear the cut. Note how high up some of the gullets go in this blade

5 for $25
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009H5DV0/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Roberts210]

Go to home depot and buy 2 good machetes and a fine flat file. Grab two "undocumented individuals" out of the group out front and offer them $8/hr cash. Get out of the way. The roots will be gone on nothing flat

And so might his head if he picks the wrong "undocumented individuals". Some of those guys are bad hombres.

 

[zendriver]

If it were me I just hit it with a chainsaw and be done with it. Roots are soft and By the time we chain was dull, You'd be done with it.

Even a hand pruning blade cut through 4 inches in 60 seconds


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[jim faston]

You probably know this, but if you do go the corded sawzall route make sure you use a heavy enough extension cord.

 

[Finky198]

I do tree work it my full time biz and my tool of choice for roots is a hilti 1400watt sawzall with opt orbital action with a diablo or lenox demo blade will cut >5" roots all day long. I have its little 18v brother which for its size is super powerful but has its limitation >2.5" root I would say comfortably for an hour or two...

Save the pruning blades for pruning they'll last longer....

I haven't found much that I have not been able to tackle with this set up, sometime it may take a little extra digging with a pick or shovel. I think most reg saws >1000 watts will get it done just not as quickly. definitely have a few extra blades on hand.

And wear your Safety Glasses

 

[Al Borland]

Go to home depot and buy 2 good machetes and a fine flat file. Grab two "undocumented individuals" out of the group out front and offer them $8/hr cash. Get out of the way. The roots will be gone on nothing flat

better than $8 an hour, offer a lump sum on satisfactory completion. They will be done twice as fast and you can drink beer sooner.

 

[Derek420]

It will work but get the longest demo blades you can get but also have a long handle wood cutting axe as a back up or at least get the bigger roots started or finished. The axe is a must.

 

[CD1]

Use an axe. I did the night before last to dig a grave for a pet,that we had to put down. My muscles are sore. And we are still grieving his loss. You would not find a more friendly people person pet!

 

[JimNC]

I need to get one. I need to dig a 50'L x 5'D x 4'W trench and there's going to be a lot of tree roots. I estimate to smallest tree root will be 4'' in diameter on up to 12'' in diameter closer to the trunk. You guessed it, it's time for a new sewer line.

Just a few questions:
1. Can I use the Diablo 9'' and 12'' pruning blades?
2. Do I need orbital cutting action?
3. Which cutting stroke? 3/4'', 1-1/8'', or 1-1/4'' ?

I was thinking about getting the Milwaukee 6519-31 Sawzall, but it does not have orbital.

Not to be argumentative, but if you're really in Amarillo TX I can't imagine that you're gonna have many big roots to contend with. If you're using an excavator then just dig the trench. For the few big roots it almost won't matter, but I'd use an axe.

 

[mike93lx]

Nobody else has mentioned it, so I'll ask: are these dimensions correct? Five foot deep and 4 foot wide and fifty foot long? That is a serious task.

I'm sure it could be done with a small- to medium-sized backhoe (such as attaches to a tractor) or a small mini excavator, but it's going to take a very long time. I'm guessing you're using some bigger machinery -- at the very least a full-size loader-backhoe or better yet an excavator (large mini, if not something full-size).

You may need a chainsaw to get through some roots, for sure. Anything the reciprocal saw can reasonably cut through, however, is likely not a challenge for an excavator with 3,000-4,000-5,000+ lbs of bucket breakout force.

Seriously. I am all about saving money, but digging this with anything but an excavator or backhoe is insanity.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Tree roots are burly nasty bastards and you'll be sucking up mud in your Sawzall. Take the blade money and spend 50 bucks on a Harbor Freight electric chain saw and toss it when you're done.

Not a bad suggestion, but up front, you should buy at least 2 spare chains. They dull quickly in dirt.

When you are done, hose off the saw and let it dry in the sun. Then spray the metal parts with Fluid Film or at least WD-40.

 

[theoldwizard1]

... but I already had the saw and the blades are cheap. ...

Same here.

First thing you need, if you don't have it already, is a cutter mattock, ...

You will still need one of those ! Get one at HF for about half of that price.

 

[rlitman]

I do tree work it my full time biz and my tool of choice for roots is a hilti 1400watt sawzall with opt orbital action with a diablo or lenox demo blade will cut >5" roots all day long. I have its little 18v brother which for its size is super powerful but has its limitation >2.5" root I would say comfortably for an hour or two...

Save the pruning blades for pruning they'll last longer....

I haven't found much that I have not been able to tackle with this set up, sometime it may take a little extra digging with a pick or shovel. I think most reg saws >1000 watts will get it done just not as quickly. definitely have a few extra blades on hand.

And wear your Safety Glasses

Pruning blades have a tooth pattern that's designed for cross cutting green wood, so they'll start out quite aggressive. Unfortunately, that tooth pattern relies upon knife sharp cutting edges, and the soft teeth will dull in seconds when cutting in dirt.

Demolition blades can be found with carbide teeth. They'll cut in dirt all day long, though the teeth will be a little closer spaced than you want for green wood. Still, the carbide toothed blades have a little extra clearance (effectively "set") around the teeth that will help you a lot in cutting green wood. If your saw has orbital action, that too will help a lot here. If not, you may run into trouble.

You could probably modify a demolition blade to be a little better for cutting green wood. I'd suggest trying this. Using pliers, snap off every fourth tooth. With the carbide gone, open up the gullet in that spot a little.

 

[VintageOkieDriver]

+1 on the corded Rigid reciprocating saw. Tried pruning blades, switched to a demo blade I had purchased for cutting through pallets, used the oscillating feature and went through 4" roots with no problem. Dirt and small stones are not kind to a chain saw blade!

 

[rlitman]

...Dirt and small stones are not kind to a chain saw blade!

No, they're not. You can actually get carbide tipped chain saw blades, if you want to spend big bucks. They're designed for firefighters to cut through things like asphalt roofs. But even if they stay sharp, the dirt will wear out sprocket, wear the bar, and wear out the pivots (causing stretch that will eventually destroy your motor sprocket).

 

[VintageOkieDriver]

Thanks rlitman that's more detailed and experienced than I had.
Darn autocorrect on my tablet!

 

[rlitman]

Thanks rlitman that's more detailed and experienced than I had.
Darn autocorrect on my tablet!

I often get a laugh out of autocorrect. The other day, I saw an "ovulating sander" on CL! :0

 

[metaldad]

dont buy a new milwaukee sawzall........... they're junk.
buy one of the higher amperage USA made porter cable tiger saws off ebay. of course, used.
they are more powerful than anything else made. ever. not as finely balanced as old USA sawzalls, but have more balls. do use an oversized extension cord, or a genset. low voltage due to undersize wiring will kill any tool.
i should know, i have 3 milwaukees, 2 tigers, 2 tiger claws, 1 tiger cub, 1 bosch, 1 dewalt.
i have cut out and removed multiple stumps off my property.
chain saws dull immediately upon striking dirt.

 

[kwschumm]

Just a week ago I cut through a four inch willow root that was in the dirt using a cordless dewalt reciprocating saw and a bimetal demo blade. Worked fine, just let the weight of the saw do the work. The nose of the saw seemed reasonably well sealed and WD-40 flushed out all the dirt when done.

 

[VintageOkieDriver]

Rlitman
I get really frustrated with auto correct on my I phone when texting, but on my Amaze tablet as well. My usual addition to my wife in texts when I have to repeat is Grrrr!

 

[tarmy]

Just did this two weeks ago...440' of trench....

I use a dewalt 18 v lithium battery sawzall with 12" tree limb blades...worked great. I have cut 3-4,000' of trench on my place...used the same sawzall for all of it. Just have lots of blades...

Get the maddox many have mentioned as well...my backhoe can get roots up to a couple inches...I use the sawzall to cut the big ones...and to clean the trench walls...

Have fun...I had a swell three days...just friggin swell.

 

[rlitman]

dont buy a new milwaukee sawzall........... they're junk.
buy one of the higher amperage USA made porter cable tiger saws off ebay. of course, used.
they are more powerful than anything else made. ever. not as finely balanced as old USA sawzalls, but have more balls. do use an oversized extension cord, or a genset. low voltage due to undersize wiring will kill any tool.
i should know, i have 3 milwaukees, 2 tigers, 2 tiger claws, 1 tiger cub, 1 bosch, 1 dewalt.
i have cut out and removed multiple stumps off my property.
chain saws dull immediately upon striking dirt.

Some of those Tiger Saws are the real deal. My father has the articulating one. It has so much power, I once got the blade stuck, and it tore the blade in half at the chuck.