Recoating Rustoleum Epoxy

[Gore]

I have had the Rustoleum epoxy down for roughly 6 years now...and it's held up great...with one exception. As many of you have realized, the section nearest the door has yellowed a bit.

I also wish I had put down more color chips...almost completely covering the floor. I think it would better disguise weld splatter that easily shows on the plain gray areas.

So...my question...can I easily recoat the flooring with more Rustoleum (or something UV resistant), or do I have grind off all of the old stuff? I don't have any adhesion issues if that matters.

 

[SunsetsAndFriends]

I have had the Rustoleum epoxy down for roughly 6 years now...and it's held up great...with one exception. As many of you have realized, the section nearest the door has yellowed a bit.

I also wish I had put down more color chips...almost completely covering the floor. I think it would better disguise weld splatter that easily shows on the plain gray areas.

So...my question...can I easily recoat the flooring with more Rustoleum (or something UV resistant), or do I have grind off all of the old stuff? I don't have any adhesion issues if that matters.

Based on everything that I have read here you can re-coat. You would want to thoroughly clean/degrease. And then scuff the existing coating with the equivalent to a green Scotchbright pad or 100 grit sandpaper.

 

[Gore]

Thank you.

I assume I'm not the only one who's had this issue. Any tricks/products that you'd recommend?

 

[benwah]

If the previous coating is tightly adhering to your concrete, sand with 100 grit sanding screen until the floor is uniformly de-glossed, solvent wipe, re-apply new coating.

If the old coating is starting to fail your best bet would be top remove and start from scratch.

 

[Gore]

Ok, I have zero failure spots or chipping, so it sounds like a recoat is possible (based on what you guys are saying).

Can anyone give me some hints on how to prevent it, or hide it, from happening again?

I've heard to opt for the gloss gray to avoid the clear from "ambering"

I also want to get complete coverage with chips, and I can't remember if it's the clear that locks them down.

And I've heard to use poly as the clear instead.

In short...I'm at paralysis by analysis stage lol.

 

[benwah]

Yes, if you have no failing spots re-coat is more than likely possible.

Epoxies by nature amber with age and UV exposure. One way to prevent this is to top coat with a polyurethane, or similar (polyurea) product.

Look at it like this, the lighter the color (white) the higher the LRV (Light Reflective Value), The darker the color (black) the lower LRV. Lighter colors take longer to fade.

For example with the company I work for, our white has a LRV of 84%, our standard gray 33%, light gray 44%, lastly just for comparison black is at 4%.

Now all that aside, if you want to install a floor with 100% chip coverage, (we call this broadcast to refusal) you would more than likely roll on 2-3 light coats of a clear polyurethane on top of the chips. I always suggest a grout coat of clear 100% epoxy on top of the chips THEN the polyurethane, but for a DIY garage this normally isn't necessary.

I would suggest de-glossing your floor, solvent wipe, 100% solids epoxy (pigmented or clear, whichever is cheaper. Pigmented is easier to see progress though) @ 8-10 mils , broadcast chips to refusal, 2-3 light coats (1.5-2.5 mils per coat) of polyurethane.

If you change your mind and decide you just want a heavy broadcast, but don't want to cover your entire floor with chips, pick a base color that goes along with your chip color scheme. Popular colors are usually white, gray, light gray, beige.

Any other questions ask away.

 

[Gore]

Wow...thanks for the awesome, detailed response.

What is the durability like with poly when compared to the epoxy clear from the rustoleum kits? Mine takes a beating and still looks good(aside from the yellowing) and I wouldn't want to lose that.

 

[benwah]

The polyurethane definitely adds durability to the floor. Major benefits include stronger chemical resistance, more abrasion resistance, and gloss retention. Also, it is a sacrificial coating, so after a few years when it becomes scratched and scuffed, you can sand it, re-apply, and have a new looking floor.

 

[Gore]

Is there a brand you'd recommend?

 

[benwah]

The vendors on here have some nice products, you don't see failures and they offer great customer service. I'd start with them and go from there. That is my opinion anyway. If you want other options PM me and I can try to help you out.