Recomend a ball joint press

[psychob0b1977]

Hi all,

So the time has come for me to do ball joints on my truck, which means i can justify purchasing a ball joint press. I dont want to rent one because i would have many uses for it, including changing u joints, which i hate doing...

I want to only buy this tool once.

so my natural first place to look was snap on. The snap on unit has some pretty cool and useful features. It also says that it covers 99% of all cars and light trucks, in a 22 piece set. Snap on also lists their application chart online and i verifed that that this unit will work on my truck. (1996 F250HD 4x4 btw)

the other quality option out there (for a lot less money) is the OTC ball joint super set. 6530. this set does not say specifically that it has the adapters that i need for my truck. it is also made in china. But it does appear to be a quality unit at about half the cost of snap on.

If money were no object or if i was a pro mechanic id buy the snap on in a heart beat. but i can justify the cost if its the only thing that will work. But if the OTC kit will work for my application, and is good quality, id rather spend $300 than almost $700.

Does anyone have either of these sets? what are your thoughts? do they hold up? has anyone used them to do ball joints on a ford dana 50? my other truck is a 2005 f350 4x4, will the otc kit work for that application, like the snap on does? What would you do?

Thanks!

 

[Murphy4570]

The otc set is the standard design out there. Most all cheap and knockoff brands copy the otc. It works fine for what it is, but it can be a pita to use, as oftentimes you have to juggle around with the adapters.

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

I bought the OTC right when they switched over to being made in China......I wasn't happy when it showed up and said "Made in China". OTC oem's to a lot of the tool trucks from what I can tell, so I wouldn't waste your money there. I would try to buy OTC on ebay made in USA. With that said, my OTC has been fantastic.

I have used mine on my 1999 F-350 Dana 50. I had to buy an adapter set (I think I got it on Amazon). I think that set will cover your 1996 also, but don't quote me on that. I have a 1995 Dana 60 that I need to do, so I'm hoping it will work!

Be sure to use anti-seize or grease on the threads of the press to keep it alive and make life easier.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Hi all,

So the time has come for me to do ball joints on my truck, which means i can justify purchasing a ball joint press. I dont want to rent one because i would have many uses for it, including changing u joints, which i hate doing...

There is another thread around here called "What do you guys & gals do to save money?"

Buying a not inexpensive tool that you are going to use 4-6 times IN YOUR LIFETIME, when you can rent one for FREE. is NOT how you do it !

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

There is another thread around here called "What do you guys & gals do to save money?"

Buying a not inexpensive tool that you are going to use 4-6 times IN YOUR LIFETIME, when you can rent one for FREE. is NOT how you do it !

I tend to agree, but if you are an avid four wheeler, this is one tool that pays for itself. Also, if the parts store doesn't have the needed adapters, you are just ******* in the wind. I didn't think I would use mine very much, but it has already done 2 sets of ball joints and whole slew of other misc tasks. I even have another axle that needs to be done, so I feel I have gotten my money's worth. Also, the HF and cheaper Chinese rentals don't always hold up very well to the 3/4 & 1 ton running gear...........I don't trust cheap *** presses when my face is 1' away from that much pressure.

 

[ricky836]

The snap on without the 5 additional adapters is only 95% coverage but it'll still do your ford and the u joints. but if your not using this tool to make money I wouldn't buy a snap on. I'd buy a cheapo atd 22 piece kit that's like $150 on eBay. Snap on and OTC are pretty pricey for such little use. even on eBay the bjp1 has been bringing around $500 + shipping. and some are even missing pieces.

 

[psychob0b1977]

I am a back yard mechanic that will use this tool for many projects. A ball joint press can be used for many things that in the past I had to farm out or swear up a storm doing. Like leaf spring bushings and u joints. I have probably replaced 20+ u joints in the last few years. So I'm not worried about it sitting idle.

 

[shockwave]

I would go with the snap on over the otc it is definitely a more stout press and also comes with retaining clips so u will not need a 3rd or 4th hand like otc on certain applications

 

[jonzer12]

I have the OTC one, mine is made in the USA, bought off amazon for $165 a few years back, adapter set another hundred I think. Don't buy a cheap press, especially if you are working on 3/4 and up trucks. You can actually feel the cheap ones bend instead of pressing when you are fighting something stubborn.

 

[MattPersman]

I have both, the snap on really is worth the money it just works so well

 

[sberry]

I paid about 40 for a HF one and the few times I used it the thing worked great. Less than a rental, about the same as the gas to deal with a "free" one.

 

[619DioFan]

Been using the ball joint press from HF for about 10 years. paid about 45.00. has held up fine.

 

[Heavy Metal Doctor]

I made my older brother buy me the OTC kit when I did ball joints on his truck for him back around 1987 when I was still a teenager in school (traded tools for labor). I still use that same kit at least once a week at work and have fabbed / cut a handfull of my own spacers / sections of pipe for machinery bushings / linkage work.

 

[picshooter]

I bought the Harbor Freight press. Initially I was going to sell it after replacing the ball joints in my Ford Ranger but for the price I paid I will just hang on to it. Ot worked fine on the ball joints on my as well as the ones on my son's Honda ATV.

 

[psychob0b1977]

I think I am going to get the snap on press.

Thanks for all the input!

 

[Buckgnarly]

I think I am going to get the snap on press.

Thanks for all the input!

You will NOT be let down. I am a "lowly" DIY'er/side jobber, but I do appreciate good tools and this is one by SO that is different and superior! Enjoy it!

 

[WVBrady]

I am surprised that no one recommended the hammer method. I was shown how to hit the end of the tie rod with two hammers, one in each hand. The idea was to have simultaneous impacts to shock the joint. It is a little easier to have one big hammer to hold against it and strike with a smaller hammer from the other direction. That's the way I did my '73 Chevy K10 many years ago. Of course, this does not satisfy the desire to buy more tools.

 

[Buckgnarly]

I am surprised that no one recommended the hammer method. I was shown how to hit the end of the tie rod with two hammers, one in each hand. The idea was to have simultaneous impacts to shock the joint. It is a little easier to have one big hammer to hold against it and strike with a smaller hammer from the other direction. That's the way I did my '73 Chevy K10 many years ago. Of course, this does not satisfy the desire to buy more tools.

That's not gonna press a BJ out....

 

[Charles (in GA)]

I bought the Harbor Freight press. Initially I was going to sell it after replacing the ball joints in my Ford Ranger but for the price I paid I will just hang on to it. Ot worked fine on the ball joints on my as well as the ones on my son's Honda ATV.

Was this a two wheel drive Ranger with the twin I beam front suspension? ('97 or earlier?)

I need to do the ball joints on my '91 2wd and see that they (HF) have a basic kit for $69 and an accessory kit with additional adapters for another $69. Just trying to decide what I need. I have measured the joints but have not compared the measurements with what is in the kits as far as diameter and depth of removal and install spacers.

Charles

 

[Charles (in GA)]

I am surprised that no one recommended the hammer method. I was shown how to hit the end of the tie rod with two hammers, one in each hand. The idea was to have simultaneous impacts to shock the joint. It is a little easier to have one big hammer to hold against it and strike with a smaller hammer from the other direction. That's the way I did my '73 Chevy K10 many years ago. Of course, this does not satisfy the desire to buy more tools.

Yes, the easy way to remove the taper joints of ball joints from spindles and tie rods, however, the body of these ball joints are pressed into the control arms or spindles and require a C clamp looking press with tubular spacers to push the splined body of the joints out of the arm or spindle.

Charles

 

[ChevyEFI]

I use: http://www.harborfreight.com/ball-joint-service-kit-for-2wd-and-4wd-vehicles-4065.html and

http://www.harborfreight.com/20-ton-shop-press-32879.html

I've never purchased the add-on adapter set Charles mentions; just saved bits and pieces of metal as time goes on.

 

[ChevyEFI]

Yes, the easy way to remove the taper joints of ball joints from spindles and tie rods, however, the body of these ball joints are pressed into the control arms or spindles and require a C clamp looking press with tubular spacers to push the splined body of the joints out of the arm or spindle.

I use the hammer method there. Then gently tap the stud and it'll pop out.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

Here is why it is confusing. First two are similar, C press frame, with spacers and drivers and forcing screw.

http://www.harborfreight.com/ball-joint-service-kit-for-2wd-and-4wd-vehicles-4065.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/ball-joint-service-kit-for-2wd-and-4wd-vehicles-60827.html

This last is a master adapter kit for one of the others, it doesn't say which one it goes with.......... duh.

http://www.harborfreight.com/14-piece-master-ball-joint-adapter-set-60307.html

 

[Fireball027]

The first 2 are the same kits, just different part numbers.
The adapter set will work with any ball joint press. I have that kit and use it with my OTC C-clamp and my older snap on one.

The adapter kit is great for the price

 

[sberry]

Get the simple kit, the only other time I needed a different adapter a socket or something worked. To start with you only have 1 truck, no point in having the rest of it on the shelf when 25 to 1 says you never need it. This is for a shop doing general repair of all makes models etc, 99 of which you never see.

 

[picshooter]

Charles,

My 2001 Ranger is NOT twin I beam. I bought the first kit pictured in the grey box. I did not need the extra adapter kit. Even though it's "HF" the tool worked well. I just oiled the threads before use. I did have to rearrange the adapters during use, which is not a big deal. For the occasional user I feel its a good option. In my case I feel it paid for itself.

 

[sberry]

Agreed, big difference for the occasional guy and someone working in a front end shop.

 

[shockwave]

For bigger trucks 250,350 etc you will want to use a press and on rangers and exployerer the lower ball joint pops out easy with a hammer up until 2001.


One nice point with the snap on is the grease fitting on the shaft of the press I usually hit it with the grease gun and wind it all the way back and forth to preserve life of the press

 

[TexasT]

I too have the "less expensive" HF in the gray case. I've not used the C press part but the adapters are REAL handy. I also have a hf 12 ton press for the actual pressing.

 

[928'er]

Have a O'Reilly's near you?

They have loaner tools (I think Pep Boys and others do it as well). You pay for the tool and bring it back within 48 hours and they refund your money.

I recently used their spring compressors to replace the shocks (coil overs) on one of my cars. Decent quality compressor (Taiwanese) - no hassle transaction.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/RentalTools.oap

 

[MN4x4]

Bought that kit today:

http://www.harborfreight.com/ball-joint-service-kit-for-2wd-and-4wd-vehicles-4065.html

But also needed this:



http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-point-joint-separator-99849.html

Almost wasn't big enough to do my 3/4 ton truck upper ball joint.

 

[Chris_L]

There is another thread around here called "What do you guys & gals do to save money?"

Buying a not inexpensive tool that you are going to use 4-6 times IN YOUR LIFETIME, when you can rent one for FREE. is NOT how you do it !

I've used a ballpoint press four or five times THIS YEAR.

 

[crewchief888]

i have the HF ball joint set, i bought 4 or 5 years ago

used mostly on utility/golf cart type ball joints.

before you dismiss the HF as being a cheap "light duty" tool,
these vehicles seen snow plow and salting duties, operators that jump curbs @ full throttle & full speed, and never get the salt washed off them.


it's held up so far

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

i have the HF ball joint set, i bought 4 or 5 years ago

used mostly on utility/golf cart type ball joints.

before you dismiss the HF as being a cheap "light duty" tool,
these vehicles seen snow plow and salting duties, operators that jump curbs @ full throttle & full speed, and never get the salt washed off them.


it's held up so far

A golf cart and a 1 ton truck are like comparing a 1/4" drive ratchet to a 3/4" drive ratchet...........not even in the same ballpark.

 

[crewchief888]

A golf cart and a 1 ton truck are like comparing a 1/4" drive ratchet to a 3/4" drive ratchet...........not even in the same ballpark.

well i guess needing a torch and an 8 lb sledge to drive out some of those ball joints doesnt count?

but by your location you dont relly realize what salt and neglect can do....

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

well i guess needing a torch and an 8 lb sledge to drive out some of those ball joints doesnt count?

but by your location you dont relly realize what salt and neglect can do....

My F350 lived in Flagstaff for 5 years and the last Jeep I did had spent the last 6 years in Park City, UT. When the ball joints on my truck finally broke loose it was like a gun shot went off! There was two of us on the breaker bar, and my buddy is a competition weight lifter. By the way, Jeep JK's are a mother effer without specialty adapters due to their tapered knuckes. Shims and some ingenuity are required.

The point I was making is cheap press tools are dangerous when there is serious pressures involved. Quality tools are cheaper than a trip to the emergency room.

 

[rodm1]

Just pick up the SO on ebay you will be happy you did.

 

[Flivver250]

Snap-On BJP1 all the way. You probably have a Dana 50 twin beam? It will make short work of the u-joints and ball joints. I would do all the joints, bearings, races, and seals at the same time. That tool is like having a heavy duty hydraulic press in a box. I have used both, but bought the SO. Cutting corners to save a few bucks may be wise, but as long as you have strength in you arms to still turn a wrench, you will be glad to have that tool in your arsenal. You could bear hunt with a 22 if you want, but I'd recommend the 45-70. When buying tools, get the best and buy it once. Cut corners somewhere else. Money is easy to come by, they print more everyday. Good tools are getting harder to find and US companies and tools I thought would be there forever are gone now. You can pick up Asian tools anytime anywhere. If you want to give China some money, buy a TV.

 

[psychob0b1977]

Snap-On BJP1 all the way. You probably have a Dana 50 twin beam? It will make short work of the u-joints and ball joints. I would do all the joints, bearings, races, and seals at the same time. That tool is like having a heavy duty hydraulic press in a box. I have used both, but bought the SO. Cutting corners to save a few bucks may be wise, but as long as you have strength in you arms to still turn a wrench, you will be glad to have that tool in your arsenal. You could bear hunt with a 22 if you want, but I'd recommend the 45-70. When buying tools, get the best and buy it once. Cut corners somewhere else. Money is easy to come by, they print more everyday. Good tools are getting harder to find and US companies and tools I thought would be there forever are gone now. You can pick up Asian tools anytime anywhere. If you want to give China some money, buy a TV.

Yes it's a Dana 50 twin traction beam. I plan on all 4 ball joints, ask of the axle u joints, and the locking hubs. Good point about bearings.

Thanks

 

[Danglerb]

HF reviews seem split, many report the cast C bends or cracks easily, others no problems.

Anybody try the Lisle version?