Recommend a 3/8 Impact Socket Strategy

[AJHD]

Be careful. While working in a tire shop long ago I had an impact-rated socket explode. Impressive how far and hard the pieces went; the foreman told me this happened perhaps once a year.

Impact sockets don't typically explode because they are typically softer than non-impact. But every manufacture has their special 11 herbs and spices and short of a hardness test probably no way to judge proper heat treatment/tempering. That and some manufactures just lie about what a tool is "rated" for.

Just before I left CAT, one of the guys on 2nd shift had an older Matco impact swivel come apart, it sent the pin through his thumb. That's probably the closest thing I've seen.

But I have seen and experienced sockets crack. Another guy I worked with at CAT had some broken sockets in his box. I wasn't there when they broke, but they were in each in several pieces, so I can only imagine.

 

[908Jim]

Count me in on not seeing the need for 3/8” impact as a hobbyist. For a pro who is always racing to beat the clock, different story.

If it’s about zipping long fasteners off, get a 3/8” cordless ratchet or even a socket adapter for a driver.

It's like a 3/8 cordless ratchet but way more ergonomic and far more useful. I don't think I've used my 3/8 air ratchet in close to a decade between the pneumatic and cordless impact.

 

[bigfunwmu]

For working on equipment, it's slicker than heck to go around with a 3/8 m12 impact and zip all the guards and shields off real quick.

Rebuilding hydraulic units on the bench, 3/8 air impact can handle all the fasteners on about 80% of the units.

3/8 wobbles and swivels are smaller than 1/2 and fit a little better, I like using a 3/8 pinless swivel socket on a 6" locking extension to get into places quicker and easier than by hand with a ratchet wrench or hand ratchet..

Finish torque for anything that matters gets a torque wrench, but it sure is nice to have power to spin something together or apart faster and easier than with hand tools. Usually apart with an impact, and back together with a cordless ratchet used as a nut runner then a torque wrench to finish.

Impact and chrome sockets both break. The place I've seen the most meat damage is chrome cracking and flaking on chrome sockets used on impacts sticks up sharp like a razor blade and will cut the hell out of you if you aren't paying attention. Impact sockets don't have the chrome layer to flake off.

 

[assassin10000]

I never owned a 3/8 impact wrench. My first and only impact is a stubby first gen 1/2" drive M12 and I got it mainly in case I got into doing suspension or drive train work and needed some oomph. I have a set of Sunex 6-point impact sockets in SAE and Metric up to 1 1/2" / 38mm

Only used the 1/2" impact for the first time a few weeks ago, took my car seat out and it zipped through it so quickly that I was impressed. I decided to get a 3/8" set whenever the latest gen model comes out, and Milwaukee leaked a new gen stubby 3/8 M12 impact with 550 pounds of nut busting torque that's smaller than first gen.

I need help devising a socket strategy for general purpose home gamer work. I already bought a set of SAE and Metric Astro universal 3/8" impacts on sale recently. I'd like to get a starter set going, and on the bright side, I think these are speed/efficiency tools, I already have full set of chrome sockets and combination wrenches, so if I am missing something, I can always buy it for later without causing a work stoppage. Here's some options and thoughts I have:

• Dont buy anything else, just run the universal impacts as the only socket, maybe they'll be a little wobbly but as a home gamer not doing much car repair, they'll still probably be faster than chrome sockets by hand, or should these be limited for use in tight angle-restricted spaces?
• Buy 3/8 Nano
• Buy 3/8 Regular
• Buy 3/8 Deep

I'd prefer to limit the ones I buy to just the basics. I wont be using them that much, and I can always buy more later. But if I'm eventually going to want a Nano and Deep, then buying regular now seems wasteful, if a nano + deep pairing is more useful and makes regular unnecessary.

Nanos and mid depths (Sunex) are what I reach for 95% of the time. I would consider skipping the regular and deeps if I were to do it all over again.

I'll second the mid-length sockets being the most reached for. Once you have them they become a go to.

I have 2 sets of the sunex mid-length sockets, one at work and one at home.


I'd avoid using chrome sockets on the impact, as you will go through hog rings more often. They also tend to be sticky (& annoying) on removal, the divots inside the chrome sockets catch the hog rings. It's worse on 3/8" drive stuff than 1/2" IME.


You could also pickup the sunex shallow and deep set for a very good price.


Note: at 300± ft-lbs the square drive end of the sockets are going to take a beating.

 

[The Critic]

My most used 3/8”’dr impact sockets are my Koken deep (arguably extra deep) thin walls. Why?

99% of the time, I use them on a M12 stubby impact gun. The longer the socket, the better the knuckle/tool clearance. Therefore, to me, deep or extra deep impact sockets are the most valuable.

 

[f121]

Any recommendation for mid-depth 3/8” impact sockets? I think that’s a flavour I don’t own yet

 

[milky2k]

Stop consulting with online forums for every purchase. Everyone’s situation is different. What worked for one guy may not work for you. You will get advice ranging from buy only from Harbor freight to buy only Snap On. Which is right for you? You will never know until you try.

 

[john.k]

I worked for 60 years with none of this fancy stuff ......Im gettin so worried ,I will definitely need therapy.

 

[oldschoolcraft]

Stop consulting with online forums for every purchase. Everyone’s situation is different. What worked for one guy may not work for you. You will get advice ranging from buy only from Harbor freight to buy only Snap On. Which is right for you? You will never know until you try.

I have seen a wide array of advice, exactly like that, but if I just try random stuff without thinking about it, then I'll wind up with an entire spare bedroom full of unused tools. I agree with you that it's really challenging to ask advice and research decisions like this, but the alternative doesnt seem better.

I think lots of people here have bought tools they regret buying, and keep around only because it's not worth reselling, they'd take too large of a loss. I'm hoping to learn from those mistakes.

I think tool purchases fall into one of a few categories:

• Life changing
• Acceptable
• Useful contingency tool for specific purposes
• Disappointing would not buy again but since you have it, keep it around as a spare/backup
• Disappointing, will never use even as a spare

For example, I've read a lot of people say "if I was starting over again, I wouldn't get 1/2" drive chrome, I'd get impacts only" and "if I was starting again, I wouldn't get shallow and deep 1/2" drive I'd just get deep"

I'm trying to get the "if I was starting over again..." knowledge and apply that to my purposes.

 

[Wamsutta]

I have seen a wide array of advice, exactly like that, but if I just try random stuff without thinking about it, then I'll wind up with an entire spare bedroom full of unused tools. I agree with you that it's really challenging to ask advice and research decisions like this, but the alternative doesnt seem better.

I think lots of people here have bought tools they regret buying, and keep around only because it's not worth reselling, they'd take too large of a loss. I'm hoping to learn from those mistakes.

The best thing to do is imagine a scenario of how you would need the tool before buying it.

 

[gatewaysysop]

Count me in on not seeing the need for 3/8” impact as a hobbyist.

I only have impact sockets in 1/2" drive and have never wanted for any in 3/8". For me at least, it would be a waste of money and space in the box.

 

[M635_Guy]

I have seen a wide array of advice, exactly like that, but if I just try random stuff without thinking about it, then I'll wind up with an entire spare bedroom full of unused tools. I agree with you that it's really challenging to ask advice and research decisions like this, but the alternative doesnt seem better.

I think lots of people here have bought tools they regret buying, and keep around only because it's not worth reselling, they'd take too large of a loss. I'm hoping to learn from those mistakes.

I think tool purchases fall into one of a few categories:

• Life changing
• Acceptable
• Useful contingency tool for specific purposes
• Disappointing would not buy again but since you have it, keep it around as a spare/backup
• Disappointing, will never use even as a spare

For example, I've read a lot of people say "if I was starting over again, I wouldn't get 1/2" drive chrome, I'd get impacts only" and "if I was starting again, I wouldn't get shallow and deep 1/2" drive I'd just get deep"

I'm trying to get the "if I was starting over again..." knowledge and apply that to my purposes.

The varied answers are because some people work differently, some people work on different stuff, some people are a little...different, and some people are crazy.

 

[Fusion13]

Most times I'm running my 1/2 unless the bolts are smaller like under hood stuff, caliper bolts, etc then I'll use my 3/8. In the rust belt 1/2 is king IMO

 

[VolvoRyan]

The varied answers are because some people work differently, some people work on different stuff, some people are a little...different, and some people are crazy.

Seems a few people are unable to answer the question of, "What do *I* work on?", for themselves. What's the point of looking for a better mouse trap if you're not trying to catch mice?

-Ryan

 

[Robinson1]

This along with the universals you’ve already bought would cover about anything you can reasonably expect to encounter

 

[Sumboodie]

I use normal sockets.

 

[oldschoolcraft]

Some really great points, especially from @gatewaysysop who mentioned just sticking with 1/2 drive for impacts.

GJ and tools are a slippery slope. When I started here I wanted nothing to do with impact wrenches/socket. Do everything by hand, as a home gamer I dont do that much wrench turning, the time savings didn't seem like it'd mean a lot.

Then I got a 1/2" stubby M12 impact with 1/2" deep sockets only, as was recommended on the forum. Many said dont bother with 1/2 chrome deep sockets, and dont bother with 1/2 shallow impact sockets.

The concept was either the fastener has a lot of clearance and you can use the deep and the impact, or it doesnt and you use the shallow chrome. Or you need deep due to the nut being deep on thread, and hopefully/probably there's clearance for an impact. Given that these are 1/2" drive fastener sizes.

So I bought into the 1/2 drive as a tool to do future suspension / brakes / drive train type work, stuff under the car. But never did any of that, so never used it.

I finally used my M12 stubby to take my seats out of my car on a whim, and it zipped them out so fast I was blown away. It took the 14mm seatbelt assembly off that I couldn't do by hand with a regular length 3/8 ratchet. I struggled for 10 seconds to do it by hand without budging it and then decided to try the impact, which burst it off in 1 second.

So then I thought maybe I should get 3/8 impacts too. Based on the comments here, I'm still undecided but I think I'm going to go for an intermediate length 3/8 impact set, skip shallow, skip deep, skip nano. If the fastener needs something other than what the stubby + intermediate length can handle, then I'll do it by hand.

If I find myself constantly running into scenarios where I wish I had nano, shallow, or deep impact sockets in 3/8 then I'll buy them in the future. I have reminded myself that this is a tool of convenience, not necessity, and if I dont have a full set on day 1, it won't cause a work stoppage. I can always do it by hand with chrome sockets and a ratchet. Or take a risk and plop a chrome socket on the impact wrench to get a few fasteners off and then buy the impact version later that week.

I'm not sure if I'll even keep the 3/8 universals, I have a buddy who will take them in trade for what I paid. Maybe I'll buy 1/2 universals to go with my more complete 1/2 drive impact set.

I'll classify the 1/2 impacts are more mission critical, allowing me to do things I might not be able to do by hand, whereas the 3/8 will be convenience tools. Which as a home gamer, I used to not care much about, but after doing a few 4-hour projects outside in friends driveways with the sun going down, once where I screwed something up out of fatigue, I do see a benefit of me speeding work up.

 

[assassin10000]

Some really great points, especially from @gatewaysysop who mentioned just sticking with 1/2 drive for impacts.

GJ and tools are a slippery slope. When I started here I wanted nothing to do with impact wrenches/socket. Do everything by hand, as a home gamer I dont do that much wrench turning, the time savings didn't seem like it'd mean a lot.

Then I got a 1/2" stubby M12 impact with 1/2" deep sockets only, as was recommended on the forum. Many said dont bother with 1/2 chrome deep sockets, and dont bother with 1/2 shallow impact sockets.

The concept was either the fastener has a lot of clearance and you can use the deep and the impact, or it doesnt and you use the shallow chrome. Or you need deep due to the nut being deep on thread, and hopefully/probably there's clearance for an impact. Given that these are 1/2" drive fastener sizes.

So I bought into the 1/2 drive as a tool to do future suspension / brakes / drive train type work, stuff under the car. But never did any of that, so never used it.

I finally used my M12 stubby to take my seats out of my car on a whim, and it zipped them out so fast I was blown away. It took the 14mm seatbelt assembly off that I couldn't do by hand with a regular length 3/8 ratchet. I struggled for 10 seconds to do it by hand without budging it and then decided to try the impact, which burst it off in 1 second.

So then I thought maybe I should get 3/8 impacts too. Based on the comments here, I'm still undecided but I think I'm going to go for an intermediate length 3/8 impact set, skip shallow, skip deep, skip nano. If the fastener needs something other than what the stubby + intermediate length can handle, then I'll do it by hand.

If I find myself constantly running into scenarios where I wish I had nano, shallow, or deep impact sockets in 3/8 then I'll buy them in the future. I have reminded myself that this is a tool of convenience, not necessity, and if I dont have a full set on day 1, it won't cause a work stoppage. I can always do it by hand with chrome sockets and a ratchet. Or take a risk and plop a chrome socket on the impact wrench to get a few fasteners off and then buy the impact version later that week.

I'm not sure if I'll even keep the 3/8 universals, I have a buddy who will take them in trade for what I paid. Maybe I'll buy 1/2 universals to go with my more complete 1/2 drive impact set.

I'll classify the 1/2 impacts are more mission critical, allowing me to do things I might not be able to do by hand, whereas the 3/8 will be convenience tools. Which as a home gamer, I used to not care much about, but after doing a few 4-hour projects outside in friends driveways with the sun going down, once where I screwed something up out of fatigue, I do see a benefit of me speeding work up.

Yeah, for the work your describing the mid-length 3/8 would cover most things. Gets in most places a deep is needed but not so deep it won't fit most places a standard length will. Far enough away there's usually enough hand/tool clearance to where you're working.

If you need deeper a short (1-3") impact extension should get you there.

Most likely you aren't going to need deeps or super deeps (unless you're working on honda engine mounts, which require special extra deep sockets). Most of the time the mid-lengths have enough reach to go over the threads sticking out.

 

[oldschoolcraft]

Most likely you aren't going to need deeps or super deeps (unless you're working on honda engine mounts, which require special extra deep sockets). Most of the time the mid-lengths have enough reach to go over the threads sticking out.

And even if I was, how many Honda engine mounts am I going to be changing? Also that seems like one of those jobs that you have time to plan for. When mounts go, I dont think it's mission critical to replace them immediately.

Bumpers are another example that people mentioned as needing deep or extra deep sockets. Which also doesnt seem like an immediate crisis to change it.

Compared to "water pump needs removing, can't drive the car until it gets changed", I think you can drive without a bumper and with failing motor mounts for a few days. I think some people drive for years on failed motor mounts!

 

[richfinn]

If you have a Honda you only really need 8/10/12/14 impacts In 3/8" drive, even if you buy shallows/semis/deeps that's 12 sockets total.

My "strategy" would be just buy all 12 individually from Ko-ken and call it good for around $100

 

[Retired dozer fixer]

How in the hell did I survive 45+ years as a professional mechanic and not have mid-length sockets in any drive size? Most of you act like you couldn’t repair anything without them.

 

[Chrome Vanadium Cody]

I have basic Ace brand sockets in shallow and deep for 3/8” impact. Bought them ~5 years ago and they’ve been fine but I use them 10% the amount I use 1/2”. Where I find 3/8” drive impact most useful is bit sockets. I feel like engineers give you less space on these. For me often 1/2” drive doesn’t fit but 3/8” still has enough oomph.

 

[ChevyEFI]

How in the hell did I survive 45+ years as a professional mechanic and not have mid-length sockets in any drive size? Most of you act like you couldn’t repair anything without them.

If you have shallow and deep, you don't need ________ .
If you have 1/2 and 1/4, you don't need ___ .

 

[oldschoolcraft]

If you have shallow and deep, you don't need ________ .
If you have 1/2 and 1/4, you don't need ___ .

Midlength
3/8" drive

And here I am buying 3/8" Midlength sockets. The GJ bug bites deep and hard!

 

[oldschoolcraft]

How in the hell did I survive 45+ years as a professional mechanic and not have mid-length sockets in any drive size? Most of you act like you couldn’t repair anything without them.

Haha yeah it does seem like there's quite a fetish for them and I dont own any except a legacy set of US Made Craftsman that I got from around late 90s or early 2000s.

In this case though for these uses, I like the idea of Midlength. I'm just going to get a single drive size for 3/8 impact because it will be a convenience tool and I'll have super shallow, shallow, and deep in chrome sockets in 3/8 in the same box. So I guess I will have one of each length style.

Jeez now I need to get super deep chrome....

But the point is that if I'm just going to have one drive length for the 3/8 impact, the mid seems to make sense. I have never personally encountered a "need" for deep sockets on my vehicle in the engine compartment, and it might be needed elsewhere, but I can use the deep chrome sockets and a ratchet for that.

If it turns out I actually need deep impacts in 3/8, I'll drop another $40 on a Taiwan set of those, no big deal. And it won't be a show stopper the day I needed it, because I'll just do it on chrome by hand. I dont think I'll run into a scenario where shallow and deep chrome + mid-length impact would not let me finish a job. I can always put a deep chome on the impact and roll the dice if that scenario came up.

 

[Robinson1]

The whole purpose of a stubby impact is to fit into tighter places. Seems to defeat the purpose by not having shallow sockets to capitalize on this.

 

[oldschoolcraft]

The whole purpose of a stubby impact is to fit into tighter places. Seems to defeat the purpose by not having shallow sockets to capitalize on this.

I have almost no experience with impacts at all, so please help me if I'm way off here with my idea.

The options for tools that use impact sockets are:

• Cordless Ratchet
• Stubby Impact
• Mid Torque Impact
• High Torque Impact

The cordless ratchets dont have much nut busting power, so you probably have to break the fastener with another tool and then switch to the cordless ratchet, which in many cases, won't save you any time over just using the initial tool you used to break the fastener.

So then my options are the actual impacts. I agree with you that the stubby impacts were designed for tight access places. But, for 3/8" do I need a mid-torque or high torque? I'm going to be primarily using it for 8, 10, 12, 14. Is there a benefit of the higher torque?

If not, then there's a downside which is the weight of the bigger tools is much heavier.

So I'm considering buying the Gen 2 M12 Stubby 3/8 Impact because it should have enough power to break stuff loose, whereas the cordless ratchet does not, and it should have enough power to do what I need it to do, in a lighter tool.

Maybe that's crazy, again, I have almost no impact experience so if I'm way off base, let me know. I do have a few months to think about it because the new versions won't be out until September allegedly.

 

[richfinn]

How in the hell did I survive 45+ years as a professional mechanic and not have mid-length sockets in any drive size? Most of you act like you couldn’t repair anything without them.

As engine bays have become even more packed with needless accessories/gimmicks and emissions equipment you just need more options for reach and clearance.

I love my Semi-Deeps, use them all the time

 

[2ndGearRubber]

As engine bays have become even more packed with needless accessories/gimmicks and emissions equipment you just need more options for reach and clearance.

I love my Semi-Deeps, use them all the time

Mechanics survived for years without metric, now it's required. Things change, semideep sure is a nice option.

 

[rust in the eye]

How in the hell did I survive 45+ years as a professional mechanic and not have mid-length sockets in any drive size? Most of you act like you couldn’t repair anything without them.

Amazing, right?
While some of us are repairing things, others are simply collecting tools. Perhaps with the notion that all of those tools may impart the knowledge of what to actually do with them, or maybe appear so to others. Ignoring that most auto repairs (or anything else for that matter) may be accomplished with just a handful of tools.
No slight intended to owners of mid length sockets, just never found a need for them myself.

 

[mngundog]

The whole purpose of a stubby impact is to fit into tighter places. Seems to defeat the purpose by not having shallow sockets to capitalize on this.

That was the purpose for me buying a stubby, now it's what I reach for 98% of the time.

 

[dnschmidt]

Smaller is better. The TTC has proven that at least for Milwaukee their 3/8" drive impacts have more grunt than their equivalent 1/2" drive versions particularly for the Gen 2 Mid Torque. If you're working on 1950's cars where room is not a problem then 1/2" is fine. If you working on modern cars, particularly Eurotrash, ever millimeter matters.

 

[AEAdam]

Think I read the whole thread. Like to know what the use case is for 3/8" impact. I've never owned a 3/8" drive impact and I feel I'd like one.

For me, my reason for wanting one is, my 1/2" gun is heavy and more powerful than I need for 90% of the things I do with it. But now they have smaller "mid torque" 1/2" guns, which is smart in my opinion. I think some are 3/8" guns with 1/2" anvils. In that case, why choose 3/8" over 1/2"? The choice of 3/8" means you need more sockets.

Now I SUSPECT, one of the use cases for 3/8" impacts is pro techs put chrome on them, including their wide assortment of bit sockets to speed up removals and installations. Techs I've seen tend to do as much as possible with a gun. They aren't banging away with these guns. They are just using them for low torque stuff and can probably run chrome for a long time.

So my questions are:

• Why? Why have a 3/8" gun? Why not just use a mid torque 1/2". You can't tell me you need impact on those stubborn 8 and 10mm bolt heads.
• Why not a battery ratchet if you are just looking for speed? Techs I know love the 14V Snap on with the toggle switch. Or is there something about the form factor of a power ratchet they/you don't like?

 

[Robinson1]

I don’t think it’s a crazy thought. I just think it would be prudent to have a set of shallow sockets as well. Even a cheap rail from harbor freight would be fine “just in case”

 

[oldschoolcraft]

Think I read the whole thread. Like to know what the use case is for 3/8" impact. I've never owned a 3/8" drive impact and I feel I'd like one.

I'd be honored to enable your next tool purchase!

For me, my reason is, my 1/2" gun is heavy and more powerful than I need for 90% of the things I do with it. But now they have smaller "mid torque" 1/2" guns, which is smart in my opinion. I think some are 3/8" guns with 1/2" anvils. In that case, why choose 3/8" over 1/2"? The choice of 3/8" means you need more sockets.

It appears the M12 Stubby Impact Gen 2 are one gun two two separate anvils, so it's just whether you're getting a 3/8 or a 1/2 anvil on the end.

Now I SUSPECT, one of the use cases for 3/8" impacts is pro techs put chrome on them, including their wide assortment of bit sockets to speed up removals and installations.

It's possible, but I dont think too many pro techs are using chrome on impacts on a regular basis, even if they can warranty them, it's still a hassle to do so unless a tool truck comes to your shop weekly, but even then that Snap On guy isn't going to like replacing your 10mm chrome socket every week that you are clearly abusing.

Techs I've seen tend to do as much as possible with a gun. They aren't banging away with these guns. They are just using them for low torque stuff and can probably run chrome for a long time.

The stubbies have quite a bit of torque, I think if you're talking about the M12 Cordless Ratchets, they could probably run on chrome for a long time, but I wouldn't want to use a stubby for one, the torque is several times greater.

So my questions are:
why?

3/8" sockets are going to be lighter than 1/2" sockets. If you happen to be taking a portable tool kit to a junkyard or somewhere to do work, carrying a bunch of 3/8" sockets will be easier and weigh less.

3/8" sockets will also be shorter than 1/2" sockets. The anvil on a 1/2" is bigger/longer than a 3/8" drive, so the female bottom part of the socket has to accommodate for the larger 1/2" anvil, which means, all else equal, the 3/8" will be shorter, and since cars are getting tighter and tighter access points, that could be meaningful.

3/8" universals are cheaper than 1/2" universals by about 30% to 50% depending on the brand.

Why not a battery ratchet if you are just looking for speed?

Not enough torque to break a lot of fasteners with the ratchet. So you'd have to start with one tool like a hand ratchet, and then switch to the battery ratchet. The stubby has enough torque to both break and drive the fastener in one tool... if it can fit!

Techs I know love the 14V Snap on with the toggle switch. Or is there something about the form factor of a power ratchet?

It's going to be much smaller than the stubby and can fit into more places.

One thing to consider, is maybe the tech has multiple power tools going simultaneously. Maybe he has a cordless ratchet with a 10mm that permanent lives on there. No swapping of sockets, just grab that and for some 10mm fasteners maybe it has enough juice to break it free.

 

[AJHD]

For me, my reason is, my 1/2" gun is heavy and more powerful than I need for 90% of the things I do with it. But now they have smaller "mid torque" 1/2" guns, which is smart in my opinion. I think some are 3/8" guns with 1/2" anvils. In that case, why choose 3/8" over 1/2"? The choice of 3/8" means you need more sockets.

Yes, full sized 1/2" impacts are heavy. The Milwaukee 2767 is like 8.5lbs without a battery for example.
If you're still using pneumatic, they're smaller but you need to drag around an air hose and compressor. Same old air vs battery argument.
I sold my 2767 after leaving the industry and sold my Asto Thor because I no longer has access to a compressor.

Similarly, 1/2" sockets are larger and heavier than their 3/8" counter parts by design. A 3/8" set of impacts is smaller and lighter weight than a 1/2" set. This is especially true for a tool bag or a portable box/kit. I sold almost all of my 1/2" sockets after leaving the industry.

I also think you nailed the 1/2" being more than you need. In my automotive mechanic experience, unless I was doing suspension work or lug nuts, I didn't really see the point in most cases for 1/2". 500, 600, 700+ ft lbs. just seem like overkill. Even when I was working on heavy equipment at CAT, I used 3/8" more than I did 1/2". I just didn't have the need for 1/2" most of the time or wanted to either deal with the size/weight and/or drag around an air hose. In fact, most of the time when I used my 1/2" I would need to follow up with a 3/4" impact or a big *** torque wrench.

I would also say that yes, some 3/8" impacts are the same exact tool as their 1/2" counterpart, but with a smaller anvil. Like the M12 Milwaukee stubby for example, same gun with two different anvil options. To me, that renders 1/2" actually under powered so why bother and for other reasons explained above, I opt for 3/8".

Lastly, yes you can get bit sockets in different sizes, but using something like a 1/2" T25 is just stupid. Having said that, I would also say 10mm on a 1/2" is also stupid. Either with a hand ratchet or impact. But manufactures insist on including them in 1/2" sets.

 

[oldschoolcraft]

Lastly, yes you can get bit sockets in different sizes, but using something like a 1/2" T25 is just stupid. Having said that, I would also say 10mm on a 1/2" is also stupid. Either with a hand ratchet or impact. But manufactures insist on including them in 1/2" sets.

Tekton goes down to 8mm in 1/2" drive impacts, and I was considering it, when I was thinking of just sticking with 1/2" as my only impact set.

 

[AJHD]

Tekton goes down to 8mm in 1/2" drive impacts, and I was considering it, when I was thinking of just sticking with 1/2" as my only impact set.

To each their own, especially if the manufacture includes it in the set. Snap On had down to 10mm in their 1/2" sets. I think the smallest 1/2" I've ever actually used would be a probably a 16mm, maybe 17mm. The rest of them sit unused collecting dust.

Maybe I'm wrong. Maybe my memory is just ****.

Think that 1/4", the smallest drive size, normally goes up to 14mm or 15mm standard.

 

[AEAdam]

It's possible, but I dont think too many pro techs are using chrome on impacts on a regular basis, even if they can warranty them, it's still a hassle to do so unless a tool truck comes to your shop weekly, but even then that Snap On guy isn't going to like replacing your 10mm chrome socket every week that you are clearly abusing.

I've seen it. They do. And they get away with it. Chrome doesn't instantly explode on an impact. They could probably go months or years before they let go.

3/8" sockets are going to be lighter than 1/2" sockets. If you happen to be taking a portable tool kit to a junkyard or somewhere to do work, carrying a bunch of 3/8" sockets will be easier and weigh less.

When I "forward deploy" I always take the big stuff. That's no time for torque optimization. Fewer and bigger is usually my approach. Same with ratchets - no mid lengths - long and maybe a stubby.

3/8" sockets will also be shorter than 1/2" sockets. The anvil on a 1/2" is bigger/longer than a 3/8" drive, so the female bottom part of the socket has to accommodate for the larger 1/2" anvil, which means, all else equal, the 3/8" will be shorter, and since cars are getting tighter and tighter access points, that could be meaningful.

Heard this said many times here, but I'd like to challenge it. The space you are saving just getting the gun in, you lose as the fastener backs out. If you don't have a couple inches behind your gun, switching drive sizes or choosing an even shallower socket probably won't help you. BTW, when the going gets tough, the tough get swivels sockets!

3/8" universals are cheaper than 1/2" universals by about 30% to 50% depending on the brand.

Swivel sockets you mean? Yeah, don't care.

One thing to consider, is maybe the tech has multiple power tools going simultaneously. Maybe he has a cordless ratchet with a 10mm that permanent lives on there. No swapping of sockets, just grab that and for some 10mm fasteners maybe it has enough juice to break it free.

For sure I've seen this.

 

[oldschoolcraft]

To each their own, especially if the manufacture includes it in the set. Snap On had down to 10mm in their 1/2" sets. I think the smallest 1/2" I've ever actually used would be a probably a 16mm, maybe 17mm. The rest of them sit unused collecting dust.

I used a 14mm recently and it worked great in 1/2 in my Gen 1 stubby. I dont have a 3/8 yet, waiting on that Gen 2, so it's what I had and it it worked great.