Recommend a 3/8 Impact Socket Strategy

[richfinn]

Think I read the whole thread. Like to know what the use case is for 3/8" impact. I've never owned a 3/8" drive impact and I feel I'd like one.

For me, my reason for wanting one is, my 1/2" gun is heavy and more powerful than I need for 90% of the things I do with it. But now they have smaller "mid torque" 1/2" guns, which is smart in my opinion. I think some are 3/8" guns with 1/2" anvils. In that case, why choose 3/8" over 1/2"? The choice of 3/8" means you need more sockets.

Now I SUSPECT, one of the use cases for 3/8" impacts is pro techs put chrome on them, including their wide assortment of bit sockets to speed up removals and installations. Techs I've seen tend to do as much as possible with a gun. They aren't banging away with these guns. They are just using them for low torque stuff and can probably run chrome for a long time.

So my questions are:

• Why? Why have a 3/8" gun? Why not just use a mid torque 1/2". You can't tell me you need impact on those stubborn 8 and 10mm bolt heads.
• Why not a battery ratchet if you are just looking for speed? Techs I know love the 14V Snap on with the toggle switch. Or is there something about the form factor of a power ratchet they/you don't like?

I bought my first 3/8" impact back in the early 90s (air powered), at the time I was doing a lot of engine and gearbox work, if you're doing a lot of repetitive bolt removal/installing (like on the old pressed steel oil pans), they are very nice tool to have.

Nowadays I use my cordless version more for stuff like undertrays and removing fuel pump covers/seats and seatbelt mounts to get at wiring harnesses/plugs hidden behind trim panels.

It's the lightweight and speed, you can turn the power right down for smaller fasteners

 

[Jweebothee]

Capri, shallow mid and deep, sunex deep and shallow swivles, Astro nanos, then some 1/4 at the bottom,

 

[2ndGearRubber]

I've seen it. They do. And they get away with it. Chrome doesn't instantly explode on an impact. They could probably go months or years before they let go.

When I "forward deploy" I always take the big stuff. That's no time for torque optimization. Fewer and bigger is usually my approach. Same with ratchets - no mid lengths - long and maybe a stubby.

Heard this said many times here, but I'd like to challenge it. The space you are saving just getting the gun in, you lose as the fastener backs out. If you don't have a couple inches behind your gun, switching drive sizes or choosing an even shallower socket probably won't help you. BTW, when the going gets tough, the tough get swivels sockets!

Swivel sockets you mean? Yeah, don't care.

For sure I've seen this.

3/8 is superior in size, weight, and ergonomics, just like 1/4 over 3/8. I've used a 1/2 drive impact to change a battery, with a 10mm socket. It works, not the best tool.

M12 and M18 impacts can also throttle power. On 2 with my m12 stubby I can impact in m8 bolts with zero fear of damage because I have the gun turned down. That 3/8 is smaller, lighter, and has power for the specific application.

You're saving space to the front, behind, left, tight, up down. Snaking impacts past ******** it's not realistic to remove for access is common, and the smaller footprint is part of this. The sockets are smaller, extensions thinner, just overall better access assuming the 3/8 has the power to do the job.

 

[AJHD]

3/8 is superior in size, weight, and ergonomics, just like 1/4 over 3/8. I've used a 1/2 drive impact to change a battery, with a 10mm socket. It works, not the best tool.

M12 and M18 impacts can also throttle power. On 2 with my m12 stubby I can impact in m8 bolts with zero fear of damage because I have the gun turned down. That 3/8 is smaller, lighter, and has power for the specific application.

You're saving space to the front, behind, left, tight, up down. Snaking impacts past ******** it's not realistic to remove for access is common, and the smaller footprint is part of this. The sockets are smaller, extensions thinner, just overall better access assuming the 3/8 has the power to do the job.

Well said...

 

[M635_Guy]

The stubbies have quite a bit of torque, I think if you're talking about the M12 Cordless Ratchets, they could probably run on chrome for a long time, but I wouldn't want to use a stubby for one, the torque is several times greater.

My (1/2") M12 Stubby has decent power, but not for anything beyond lugs (and sometimes it doesn't get those, even when I've torqued them properly. It won't even touch most suspension bolts, hence the Mid, which has done 100% of everything I've needed when the Stubby can't.

3/8" sockets are going to be lighter than 1/2" sockets. If you happen to be taking a portable tool kit to a junkyard or somewhere to do work, carrying a bunch of 3/8" sockets will be easier and weigh less.

This is kind of a false economy IMHO. Not enough savings to worry about, at least for me (I routinely travel with tools in my old BMWs).

3/8" sockets will also be shorter than 1/2" sockets. The anvil on a 1/2" is bigger/longer than a 3/8" drive, so the female bottom part of the socket has to accommodate for the larger 1/2" anvil, which means, all else equal, the 3/8" will be shorter, and since cars are getting tighter and tighter access points, that could be meaningful.

There's FAR more "shortness" to be achieved with a compact mid-torque than having a second set of impacts. I think I posted the M18 Gen2 Mid vs. my M12 Stubby pic earlier in this thread - it fits virtually everywhere the Stubby does, and has far more power (though the new one they recently showed is apparently pretty grumpy). Pretty sure there are Team Yellow and other mids that are pretty short also and still give you the range of sizes offered by 1/2".

3/8" universals are cheaper than 1/2" universals by about 30% to 50% depending on the brand.

Not less expensive than just having one set

 

[oldschoolcraft]

M12 and M18 impacts can also throttle power. On 2 with my m12 stubby I can impact in m8 bolts with zero fear of damage because I have the gun turned down. That 3/8 is smaller, lighter, and has power for the specific application.

I wonder if the new Gen 2 M12 stubby that have the same max torque listed for 3/8 and 1/2 and appear to be the same tool with different anvils will have a different level of settings, where the max setting has the same torque but maybe the 3/8 has lower torque / RPMs than the 1/2 on equivalent lower settings?

 

[AJHD]

I wonder if the new Gen 2 M12 stubby that have the same max torque listed for 3/8 and 1/2 and appear to be the same tool with different anvils will have a different level of settings, where the max setting has the same torque but maybe the 3/8 has lower torque / RPMs than the 1/2 on equivalent lower settings?

Doesn't look like there will be any difference beyond the anvil size, just as with the current version.
Milwaukee's website shows exact same specs for both models, except the 1/2" anvil is .1" longer.

Milwaukee Delivers the Next Generation of M12 FUEL Stubby Impact Wrenches

www.milwaukeetool.com

 

[AEAdam]

3/8 is superior in size, weight, and ergonomics, just like 1/4 over 3/8. I've used a 1/2 drive impact to change a battery, with a 10mm socket. It works, not the best tool.

M12 and M18 impacts can also throttle power. On 2 with my m12 stubby I can impact in m8 bolts with zero fear of damage because I have the gun turned down. That 3/8 is smaller, lighter, and has power for the specific application.

You're saving space to the front, behind, left, tight, up down. Snaking impacts past ******** it's not realistic to remove for access is common, and the smaller footprint is part of this. The sockets are smaller, extensions thinner, just overall better access assuming the 3/8 has the power to do the job.

Just about sold, but please clarify: (Rich also you).

In the cases I'm thinking about, Milwaukee and Snap On specifically, the 3/8" and 1/2" guns are identical in size. So the only advantage for accessibility is the size of the sockets.

If you could start over, would you choose the smaller 1/2" gun and skip 3/8" impacts or is the size of the sockets a significant enabler for you?

Last, who wants to admit to putting chrome on impacts? So many of the fasteners I'd like to use a gun on are torx heads. Are there torx, Allen, and triple square impact sockets?

 

[AJHD]

Last, who wants to admit to putting chrome on impacts? So many of the fasteners I'd like to use a gun on are torx heads. Are there torx, Allen, and triple square impact sockets?

I think we've all done it at some point. But the primary offender here is actually hex and torx sockets.
But yes, "they" do indeed make impact bit sockets. Every major brand has their version... Koken, Husky, Harbor Freight, etc..

A few examples;

Impact Bit Sockets and Sets (Hex, Torx, XZN) | TEKTON

Shop impact bit sockets with hex, Torx (star), or triple square (XZN) tips. Designed to work with both friction hog ring and detent pin anvil styles.

www.tekton.com

11-Piece 3/8" Drive Nano Impact Metric Hex Bit Sockets | Astro Pneumatic Tools

NO LONGER AVAILABLE • Professional duty. Superior resistance to twisting or chipping compared to other Cr-v, Cro-Mo and even S2 sets • Low profile design fo ...

www.astrotools.com

9-Piece 3/8" Drive Nano Impact Triple Square Bit Sockets | Astro Pneumatic Tools

• Low profile 1-1/8" long design is 26% shorter allowing for more direct transfer of impacts and increased durability, or add an extension for longer r ...

www.astrotools.com

10pc 3/8" Drive Nano Impact Torx Bit Sockets | Astro Pneumatic Tools

Lifetime warranty forged S2 alloy uniquely treated to provide superior resistance to twisting and chipping compared to other CR-V, CRO-MO and even S2 sets I ...

www.astrotools.com

 

[KSJeff]

Just about sold, but please clarify: (Rich also you).

In the cases I'm thinking about, Milwaukee and Snap On specifically, the 3/8" and 1/2" guns are identical in size. So the only advantage for accessibility is the size of the sockets.

If you could start over, would you choose the smaller 1/2" gun and skip 3/8" impacts or is the size of the sockets a significant enabler for you?

Last, who wants to admit to putting chrome on impacts? So many of the fasteners I'd like to use a gun on are torx heads. Are there torx, Allen, and triple square impact sockets?

I wouldn't choose a small 1/2" anything. My swivels are 3/8 impact and 1/4" chrome. I do have a 1/4" impact set, but it was free from SK.

I'd put chrome on an impact if I didn't have anything else to do the job. And yes, those are available in impact from a variety of manufacturers.

I try a lot of sockets though, and I have enough set for my shop box, my garage box and my office box. Eventually each set will go to a kid.

This is my current service cart in the main shop. SAE to the left and metric to the right.

 

[oldschoolcraft]

Great setup! What's the circular thing on the bottom part of the lid, looks like some kind of small magnetic socket organizer but in a circle for a limited number of sockets?

 

[KSJeff]

It is a magnetic socket holder. It's a set of splined sockets that came as some universal "socket for everything set" one of the kids grabbed me at Christmas one year. Sometimes it will grab an odd fastener but now that I have the RBRT wrenches, I go for them first on weird/stripped stuff. It's mostly there because they bought it for me. I like to keep that stuff front and center whether I like it or not.

 

[oldschoolcraft]

It is a magnetic socket holder. It's a set of splined sockets that came as some universal "socket for everything set" one of the kids grabbed me at Christmas one year.

Never seen a circular one before! Who makes it? Or did it come with that set of splined sockets?

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Just about sold, but please clarify: (Rich also you).

In the cases I'm thinking about, Milwaukee and Snap On specifically, the 3/8" and 1/2" guns are identical in size. So the only advantage for accessibility is the size of the sockets.

If you could start over, would you choose the smaller 1/2" gun and skip 3/8" impacts or is the size of the sockets a significant enabler for you?

Last, who wants to admit to putting chrome on impacts? So many of the fasteners I'd like to use a gun on are torx heads. Are there torx, Allen, and triple square impact sockets?

I've put chrome on impacts, will continue. There are impact bit sockets.

Sockets and accessories are the defining factor, even with drive tool size being constant. Wall thickness, socket length, extension thickness, all come into play. For instance an M8 fastener had a 13mm head, all 3 drive sizes can interact with that. But where it is, what the torque is, and what's around it dictate tool drive size. Conversely I have a 1/2 drive impact on the air line, I need to pull some 13mm undertray bolts, I may use a ridiculous 1/2 drive impact since I have a 13mm and it's already in my hand. But that 13mm bolt holding a ground eyelet to the block? 1/2 doesn't fit.

Sometimes the OEM tool maker offers two anvils, but one is only realistic to the tools power. Yes, you can buy a 3/8 stubby M12 impact, and 1/2 drive. The tool has no balls, it's a toy for light tear down unless you want to rattle on everything for 5 seconds. I like the tool, but it's a 3/8 tool. 1/2 is nice that they offer, and I'm sure some people have uses for the 1/2 drive tool. Same idea as if they put a 3/8 anvil on an Astro Thor impact. I'm sure someone somewhere has value from.that. It's realistically a 1/2 drive anvil tool.

I would say based on my use, the least valuable impact is the 1/4 hex driver/impacts. Outside interior work you can do similar things with a 1/4 ratchet, the pistol grip style is just more ergonomic. In today's market, I'm one to say to forgo a dedicated 3/8 impact, and get a stubby M12 and a flex head astro in 3/8. Neither of these make what I consider "real" 1/2 drive power. So having chunkier drive tools connected offers no benefit. Use the dantier size of the tool and drive accessories.

IMO for automotive you have to have a full power 1/2 gun. A lot of shops don't really have the air to spin a 3/4. So you have to have a 1/2 full size impact. Work down into what sizes you need to meet your work requirements. I use a stubby 1/2 most of the time.

 

[KSJeff]

They say Grip on. Here's a green one. If you search magnetic socket disc you'll get a bunch.

https://www.amazon.com/Grip-Socket-Base-3-8/dp/B00NY4M2J6/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[richfinn]

Just about sold, but please clarify: (Rich also you).

In the cases I'm thinking about, Milwaukee and Snap On specifically, the 3/8" and 1/2" guns are identical in size. So the only advantage for accessibility is the size of the sockets.

If you could start over, would you choose the smaller 1/2" gun and skip 3/8" impacts or is the size of the sockets a significant enabler for you?

Last, who wants to admit to putting chrome on impacts? So many of the fasteners I'd like to use a gun on are torx heads. Are there torx, Allen, and triple square impact sockets?

It's all in the smaller size of the sockets for me, I use 3/8" a lot (I do use an M18 1/2" mid torque for wheels and suspension/crank pulley bolts)

You could use a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter but it will make your impact wrench a little longer (and you will be constantly swapping)

That extra 1/2" length can sometimes make or break a job!!!

For me the M12 stubby format would always be a 3/8" gun (it just has the dimensions for that application and the M18 mid torque is perfect in 1/2").

You can buy hex/Torx etc. in impact versions (but yes I have used chrome on impacts when I run out of other options).

Personally I don't go crazy buying full sets of sockets, I just buy individuals in the "golden sizes" I will actually use regularly.

 

[WWheeler]

I won't ever put a non-impact socket on any of my impacts. I've seen chrome sockets get stuck on an impact's hog ring many times where 15 or more minutes later I'm still seeing them struggle to get a damn socket off, and have even seen the hog ring itself broken trying to get it off.

Hog rings are meant to catch in the single dimple/hole that a typical impact rated socket has, not a dimple on all 4 sides like a typical chrome socket has. It's hard enough to get an impact-rated socket off of a new impact's hog ring, until it gets good and broken in. I coudn't count how many times I've used my pocket screwdriver to assist.

 

[oldschoolcraft]

It's all in the smaller size of the sockets for me, I use 3/8" a lot (I do use an M18 1/2" mid torque for wheels and suspension/crank pulley bolts)

You could use a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter but it will make your impact wrench a little longer (and you will be constantly swapping)

That extra 1/2" length can sometimes make or break a job!!!

For me the M12 stubby format would always be a 3/8" gun (it just has the dimensions for that application and the M18 mid torque is perfect in 1/2").

I understand the adapters are a weak spot, just not sure how weak. What about buying the 3/8" version of the stubby and then using a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter when using larger sockets on suspension work?

From what I'm seeing, the new Gen 2 stubby is about as powerful as the current M18 mid torque.

You would have the benefit of smaller lower profile 3/8 sockets when needed, and then for suspension work, where I assume clearance is less of an issue, you can use the adapter plus 1/2 drive sockets.

Not sure how much power loss you get in the adapter and what likelihood it has of shearing off.

 

[richfinn]

I understand the adapters are a weak spot, just not sure how weak. What about buying the 3/8" version of the stubby and then using a 3/8 to 1/2 adapter when using larger sockets on suspension work?

From what I'm seeing, the new Gen 2 stubby is about as powerful as the current M18 mid torque.

You would have the benefit of smaller lower profile 3/8 sockets when needed, and then for suspension work, where I assume clearance is less of an issue, you can use the adapter plus 1/2 drive sockets.

Not sure how much power loss you get in the adapter and what likelihood it has of shearing off.

I've never broken my Snap-On adapter in 30 odd years.

I think you need to be into both the M18 and M12 systems to get the best mix of mechanics tools from Milwaukee, once you are buying a bare tool it isn't such a big $$$$ hit.

I wouldn't hesitate to buy another 1/2" M18 mid torque when mine croaks (mine will last a week easy on a 5.0ah battery and I would recommend this as the first choice for anybody getting into a cordless impact for auto work).

M12 is more suited to a 1/4 - 3/8" platform (ratchets and smaller impacts) in my opinion, with the little M12 2.0 ah batteries.

For home gamers things might pan out different depending on what sockets you have etc, it's a very subjective topic, but for me I have basically gradually replaced my old air tools with cordless tools that have the same kind of physical dimensions I'm used to working with (and I've been patient and waited until Li-On/brushless became the norm).

I do like my 10.8 v Bosch hex Drill/driver better than the Milwaukee versions though (way shorter body).

 

[AEAdam]

I like the small batteries of the 12v guns in general. The 18v Milwaukee batteries are big and clumsy in my opinion. Bosch 18v CORE I find much nicer, smaller for similar Ah. But I like the Milwaukee 18v.

I thought Snap On impacts once shared parts with Bosch. Tho their batteries are not interchangeable, they appear similar to Bosch 18v, and that’s something I’ve always liked about Snap On cordless. Their 14v “micro lithium“ is comparable is form factor to the Milwaukee 12v.

In my opinion based on using carpentry tools, (I have Bosch and Snap On 18v impacts for automotive), the battery makes a huge difference to the weight, balance and feel of the tool.

So I guess my answer regarding my strategy
is different from when this thread started - I think I would choose a 12-14v 3/8” impact, and I would probably choose the thin wall impacts and truck brand swivel/universal sockets. But ill likely also choose a low torque 1/2” gun. For me it will probably come out something like this:

CT8850 (high torque gun-have one, this thing is a beast, almost too big)
CT9010 (mid torq gun. Might be able to share batteries with my 8850)

then in 3/8” a CTR867 long neck ratchet
and a CT861.
One could of course substitute Milwaukee versions for these.

My purchasing strategy will probably be finding slightly beat up models on eBay or FBM, then finding fresher cleaner batteries.

 

[oldschoolcraft]

I would probably choose the thin wall impacts and truck brand swivel/universal sockets.

I would consider supplementing with regular impacts and non-truck swivel/universal.

Most places won't warranty thin wall impacts. I assume they wear significantly faster than regular sockets. I dont know how long they'd last for a home gamer. It might be worth getting a set of Sunex / Astro regular sockets, and then to avoid you cluttering up your tool cart with two sets of sockets, you would keep a full set of no-skips thin wall, plus an abbreviated set of the common sizes for your cars in regular thickness. Then you can use the regular thickness ones when they fit, but have the thin wall nearby for when they dont.

As far as uncommonly used sizes, you won't be using them much, if ever anyway so just use thin wall for those sizes since you won't wear them out.

The sets are usually much cheaper than singles, but if you hate storage clutter, you could buy some individuals from Tekton of the most commonly used sizes to keep those in you box.

As far as universals, I'd go the opposite route of this strategy, which is to buy the full set of non-truck swivels, and then buy just the truck swivels for the sizes that are most common to your vehicle. No sense in buying 9mm and 11mm Snap On swivel sockets at $65 each if they'll never be used. And you got the non-truck versions in your cart for if the need arises. The tool trucks dont really discount for buying sets, so buying half a set at individual prices is half the cost of a full set, unless there's a promo going, which usually involves buying a full set to get some free other item.

Proposed Strategy Outline:

• Buy:
  • Regular Impacts - full set
  • Thin Wall Impacts - full set
  • Non Truck Universals - full set
  • Truck Universals - Limited size
• Tool Cart:
  • Regular Impacts - limited sizes (common)
  • Thin Wall Impacts - full set
  • Non Truck Universals - limited sizes (uncommon)
  • Truck Universals - limited sizes (common)
• Garage Storage:
  • Regular Impacts (uncommon sizes)
  • Non Truck Universals (common sizes)

 

[AJHD]

When you say thin wall impacts, do you have anything specific in mind?

 

[RedneckWelder]

Buy the big Grey Pnuematic 3/8 impact set and be done with it. Has shallow, deep and wobbles in full coverage of sizes.

 

[garfunkle24]

I would consider supplementing with regular impacts and non-truck swivel/universal.

I noticed you keep using both the term "swivel" and "universal" and/or using them interchangeably. As do a lot of manufacturers and retailers. I find that weird as an impact swivel really isn't a universal joint.

 

[oldschoolcraft]

I noticed you keep using both the term "swivel" and "universal" and/or using them interchangeably. As do a lot of manufacturers and retailers. I find that weird as an impact swivel really isn't a universal joint.

I wasn't aware. Thank you for correcting me.

 

[garfunkle24]

I wasn't aware. Thank you for correcting me.

You're welcome but I really don't think you were "incorrect" if that's what the manufacturer calls them! I just find it a bit odd.

 

[LWB]

You're welcome but I really don't think you were "incorrect" if that's what the manufacturer calls them! I just find it a bit odd.

They should get with the program. They're called wobblies!

You're right. I always thought that a swivel had a socket attached. I thought a universal was a universal joint without a socket. But I see them listed both ways by manufacturers.

 

[AEAdam]

You're welcome but I really don't think you were "incorrect" if that's what the manufacturer calls them! I just find it a bit odd.

A u joint is a type of universal joint. A universal joint is one that connects 2 shafts or axes at various angles. All swivel sockets are technically universals. The u-joint socket adapter is a universal joint.

I always thought the U in u joint referred not to universal, but the shape of the joint halves. But I could be wrong.

 

[garfunkle24]

A u joint is a type of universal joint. A universal joint is one that connects 2 shafts or axes at various angles. All swivel sockets are technically universals. The u-joint socket adapter is a universal joint.

I always thought the U in u joint referred not to universal, but the shape of the joint halves. But I could be wrong.

Actually a universal joint is more specific than that. Besides being itself a joint that connects 2 shafts at various angles, it must have 2 hinges/axis of flex to be a true universal joint.

So technically impact swivels, cv shafts etc are NOT universal joints.

Also I'm pretty sure "u-joint" is, in fact, just an abbreviation of "universal joint".


Maybe this is why MFGers refer to impact swivels or adapters as "universal sockets" rather than "universal joint sockets".

 

[littlebean]

I wouldn't hesitate to buy another 1/2" M18 mid torque when mine croaks (mine will last a week easy on a 5.0ah battery and I would recommend this as the first choice for anybody getting into a cordless impact for auto work).

Interested to hear if this still applies since I'm also UK and have just started doing brakes/suspension stuff on modern (well post 2006 anyway) Fords

 

[richfinn]

Interested to hear if this still applies since I'm also UK and have just started doing brakes/suspension stuff on modern (well post 2006 anyway) Fords

It still depends on your sockets

For example: I use my M18 mid torque for wheels/hub nuts/suspension work, typically I will use 1/2" impact sockets ranging from 15mm up to 36mm with this tool.

If I'm working on anything smaller I use either my M12 1/4" hex Impact driver (170nm) or my M12 3/8" ratchet. (Both very versatile)

My 3/8" sockets typically range from 8mm to 19mm

I have thought about getting a 3/8" gen 3 impact gun but not really found a way to justify it yet!!! (Brake Work might be a good example)

 

[littlebean]

I'm starting from nothing, no impact sockets anyway, caused by having to fight with some bolts on our Fiesta and Focus.
i'm loosing interest in having to sprawl on the floor trying to work out how to get a long breaker bar in

 

[mikey03]

tekton just dropped 3/8 mid impacts

 

[1Bad55Chevy]

I'm starting from nothing, no impact sockets anyway, caused by having to fight with some bolts on our Fiesta and Focus.
i'm loosing interest in having to sprawl on the floor trying to work out how to get a long breaker bar in

Let me guess..... clutch replacement on the outstanding DPS6?

 

[Hakeem]

I still don’t really see the point of 3/8 impacts, especially with the advent of nano/stubby impact sockets for 1/2” drive. You can get stubby 1/2” impact wrenches that are the same size as the 3/8” variants. I do have a set of 3/8” impact sockets for my impacting air ratchet but never felt compelled to get the matching impact gun. Just seems like a way to sell more sockets to mechanics with complete 1/2” socket sets

Maybe if I worked on cars I’d feel different?

 

[mikey03]

I still don’t really see the point of 3/8 impacts, especially with the advent of nano/stubby impact sockets for 1/2” drive. You can get stubby 1/2” impact wrenches that are the same size as the 3/8” variants. I do have a set of 3/8” impact sockets for my impacting air ratchet but never felt compelled to get the matching impact gun. Just seems like a way to sell more sockets to mechanics with complete 1/2” socket sets

Maybe if I worked on cars I’d feel different?

1/2 drive sockets are heavier by alot than 3/8 so if your doing something like 14mm your overkill in 1/2 drive

 

[Twisted Sid]

I use my 3/8" impact more than any other power tool I own. I use it with stubby and deep impact sockets every day at work. The 1/2" only comes out for 3/4" or bigger nuts and bolts.

 

[M635_Guy]

I still don’t really see the point of 3/8 impacts, especially with the advent of nano/stubby impact sockets for 1/2” drive. You can get stubby 1/2” impact wrenches that are the same size as the 3/8” variants. I do have a set of 3/8” impact sockets for my impacting air ratchet but never felt compelled to get the matching impact gun. Just seems like a way to sell more sockets to mechanics with complete 1/2” socket sets

Maybe if I worked on cars I’d feel different?

I don't want to devote room to 3/8", and 3/8" doesn't generally go up to big sizes for hub nuts/etc.

My impacts are both 1/2" - M18 Mid Gen2 and M12 Stubby Gen2. I can save a ton more weight and size/clearance with the Stubby than I could ever achieve with 3/8" sockets over 1/2".

If they Stubby can't get it, the Mid will. I haven't hit anything yet the Mid can't get. (but I'm not in the Rust Belt)

 

[Blueshound_GJ]

This has been a real education. At some point I guess I should replace my 2003 Ingersoll Rand and SK chrome sockets.

 

[Hakeem]

1/2 drive sockets are heavier by alot than 3/8 so if your doing something like 14mm your overkill in 1/2 drive

I use 1/2” drive sockets down to 10mm & 7/16” every single day. I don’t gun them on & off full blast, I feather the trigger and use a bit of finesse so I don’t break stuff. The weight difference of a few dozen grams per socket isn’t enough for me to spend a couple hundred bucks on 3/8” drive impact socket sets + impact guns.

I don't want to devote room to 3/8", and 3/8" doesn't generally go up to big sizes for hub nuts/etc.

My impacts are both 1/2" - M18 Mid Gen2 and M12 Stubby Gen2. I can save a ton more weight and size/clearance with the Stubby than I could ever achieve with 3/8" sockets over 1/2".

If they Stubby can't get it, the Mid will. I haven't hit anything yet the Mid can't get. (but I'm not in the Rust Belt)

Exactly. I have the m12 stubby and a compact air impact, both in 1/2” drive. Both are light and small in size, but between the two they get 99% of the fasteners I see at work. If 1/2” impacts were the big monsters of 5-10 years ago I’d see the advantage of 3/8” impacts but these days the 1/2” guns are often the same size as 3/8”

I have the space for 3/8” impacts I just don’t want to spend the money on another drive size. Enough is is enough LOL