I'm in the planning / dreaming phase of a potential dedicated wood working space. Due to several limiting factors, my current plans are for a structure 18' wide and 48' deep. The attached garage at my house has a 10'6" ceiling height, and I really like it. Based on this I was thinking either 10' ceilings, or 12' ceilings in my new space. 12' seems like added heating and construction material expense with little functionality return. Is 10' optimum for a wood working shop? I briefly considered 9', but I'm concerned it won't be tall enough if I add some large ceiling fans to circulate the air. I plan to heat and cool the space for year round use. It will be fully insulated for efficiency, but due to cost I will likely stay with 2x4 construction vs 2x6. What ceiling height would you recommend?
Recommend a ceiling height for a wood working shop
- Thread starter Onebean
- Start date
Toomanytools?
Well-known member
Ahhh the dreaming and planning phase a good phase. My old wood shop ( double garage) had like a 9'2" ceiling and it was fine but you had to watch the ceiling fan. Current shop which is still in progress is 10'6", much better head room. When spinning a sheet of plywood or 8' lumber no worries on hitting anything. I too considered going 12' but didn't see the need.
I guy that builds curved wooden stairways has a 14-16' shop height so he can fab the unit in place then break it down for install. So unless you are doing certain tall structures 9-10' should be fine I would lean towards 10'+.
I guy that builds curved wooden stairways has a 14-16' shop height so he can fab the unit in place then break it down for install. So unless you are doing certain tall structures 9-10' should be fine I would lean towards 10'+.
moab11
Well-known member
10' seems to be a happy medium of having enough height to move around 8' material, and low enough for practicality.
12' could be nice if you are planning for a lot of overhead equipment such as air cleaners, ceiling fans, dust collection, etc. Would also give more room for storage too, but at added costs to build and heat or cool.
12' could be nice if you are planning for a lot of overhead equipment such as air cleaners, ceiling fans, dust collection, etc. Would also give more room for storage too, but at added costs to build and heat or cool.
duneslider
Well-known member
I had 10 in my last garage and a hair over 11' in my new and don't notice any advantage to 11. 10 was plenty for me to move 8' goods around. 11' has allowed me to go taller with storage which I find harder to get to.
If you stack lumber vertically and buy 12-foot lengths, anything shorter will show up pretty quick. 
And it depends on how you heat it. If you use radiant heating in the floor, extra ceiling height isn't as big of an issue. You can use a lower thermostat setting and still be comfortable because your body will be in the warmer part of the gradient instead of the reverse.
I really like being able to hold an 8-foot board up towards a ceiling light to sight along its length. Granted, I don't usually do that. But a sheet of plywood is 9 feet corner to corner, and if you have to rotate it, you'll want a foot or two top and bottom to avoid having to thread the needle.
Ceiling height is never too high in my thinking--but it can surely be too low. I'd suggest going as high as you dare.
Rick "whose shop is 14 feet to the bottoms of the roof trusses" Denney
And it depends on how you heat it. If you use radiant heating in the floor, extra ceiling height isn't as big of an issue. You can use a lower thermostat setting and still be comfortable because your body will be in the warmer part of the gradient instead of the reverse.
I really like being able to hold an 8-foot board up towards a ceiling light to sight along its length. Granted, I don't usually do that. But a sheet of plywood is 9 feet corner to corner, and if you have to rotate it, you'll want a foot or two top and bottom to avoid having to thread the needle.
Ceiling height is never too high in my thinking--but it can surely be too low. I'd suggest going as high as you dare.
Rick "whose shop is 14 feet to the bottoms of the roof trusses" Denney
Great feed back from everyone, thank you. Heat and A/C will be from a mini split or forced air furnace. I don't have access to natural gas, so I'll either be all electric, or Propane. I like the convenience of all electric, but I'm not sure I'll like the electric bills.
LeonardY
Well-known member
You may want to consider putting solar in while you are in the construction phase. The thing I don't like abut solar is it's never integrated but a retrofit.
Absolutely minimum is 10' .... Try to stand a 4x8 sheet good product in a space with 8 foot ceilings.... and shop lights.
Yankeefarmer
Well-known member
When you get to that point, consider a ducted split system heat pump. Heating cost a fraction of resistance heat, easy filter changes for dust protection, and good ability to distribute the conditioned air along that 48’ dimension and use a single thermostat. Spend some time browsing threads in the Heating and AC forum here.
dcg9381
Well-known member
I set my father up with a 20 x 40' extension on my barn. It's got 14' ceilings. The real question is "how big a door do you need" - a 14' will do a 12' door. We have a wood shop air filter hanging from the ceiling and will eventually do a ductless split. Space is spray foam insulated.
jar944
Well-known member
I wouldn't want less than 12' especially if you plan on running dust collection piping.
I wouldn't go less than 12' either. By the time you get fans, lights, etc hanging from the ceiling you'll appreciate the extra room when you are swinging a 2x4 or sheet of plywood around. Plus you can get a taller door in it.
rayra
Well-known member
yep the height increase is about the least expensive aspect. Go as tall as you can afford or get approved.
Krfjkm
Well-known member
9’ is good—- 10’ is great!
Uncle murph
Well-known member
2x4 walls?Seriously?If you can’t afford to do it right,I would hold off until the money is available .You’re going to give the money you saved to the utility company anyway.
gunguy
Well-known member
When determining ceiling height, you want to account for anything that may be mounted up there, i.e. lights, fans, air handling equipment, filters, cord reels, air hose reels, etc. All these things will reduce your working height. Also consider any possible future additions.
Consider that some things normally mounted on the ceiling may be mounted on the wall to save working space.
You're in the planning stage, take full advantage of the time. Paper and pencils are cheap. Schetch out your dream shop then work backwards to what fits your space and budget. When designing, try to account any future needs/wants as finances may allow. Want a bathroom in the shop but can't afford it at the moment? Plan for it and stub out the plumbing and electrical so it's easy to add in the future.
Good luck and have fun.
Jim
Consider that some things normally mounted on the ceiling may be mounted on the wall to save working space.
You're in the planning stage, take full advantage of the time. Paper and pencils are cheap. Schetch out your dream shop then work backwards to what fits your space and budget. When designing, try to account any future needs/wants as finances may allow. Want a bathroom in the shop but can't afford it at the moment? Plan for it and stub out the plumbing and electrical so it's easy to add in the future.
Good luck and have fun.
Jim
Minimum I would go is 10' as that should still give 9' under lights. If able I would look at 12' as the extra height gives much greater options for things like fans, dust collection pipe and a run of shelves at 10' around the perimeter for storage of the lesser used items
K'ledgeBldr
Well-known member
All of the suggestions are, I’ll assume, based on a flat ceiling.
There is the possibility of using regular 8’ exterior walls and vaulted scissors trusses- either symmetrical or asymmetrical; giving you 10-12’ ceilings at a certain point.
There is the possibility of using regular 8’ exterior walls and vaulted scissors trusses- either symmetrical or asymmetrical; giving you 10-12’ ceilings at a certain point.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I'd want about 10' if building from scratch, but I would take anything if it meant having a dedicated woodworking space.
I did a decent amount of woodworking and projects in a garage with 7.5' ceilings, which was a PIA at times, but it worked
I did a decent amount of woodworking and projects in a garage with 7.5' ceilings, which was a PIA at times, but it worked
I'm building a 32'x44' shop right now, putting siding on at the moment. I put a partition wall in so one bay will be for auto/mechanic work, the other 2 bays will be wood shop. I built it with 12' ceilings throughout and I think that was a good decision. I plan to have a couple canoes hung from the ceiling, lights and anything else. 12' lumber leaned up against a wall is nice and moving it around is easy. I went with radiant floor heat, 2x6 rough cut framing. Having said that, 10' would be workable, in my opinion.
My 30x34 shop is 10’ and it works out well for my woodwork. As noted you can handle 8’ lengths vertically. I don’t think you need more for a hobbyists shop. Look at the orientation of the building for solar application. I did it and zeroed my elec bill, which here is a big deal. I use the Sunseeker app.
duneslider
Well-known member
Very little benefit to going to 2x6 construction. R-13 vs R19 in a wall doesn't make a ton of difference. Spending the money on doing a better job of air sealing and roof/ceiling insulation would be better.
Adding a continuous insulation on the exterior over a 2x4 wall would net better results than a 2x6.
I wouldn't hesitate to do a shop with 2x4 walls.
Miss the Pontiacs
Well-known member
I’ve got 10’, 12’ would be better. 14’ would be fantastic.
klassenl
Well-known member
I have 10 feet. I told my contractor/supplier that I wanted to go 8 feet but he shipped the package with 10 footers anyway. Mine is a hobby shop so 10 is good for me.
Depends on the roof design ....
I like my buildings open -- cathedral ceilings. My newest building has both 8' and 10' -- really just for looks. It's two connected buildings. They both have raised collar ties -- so the only place it's 8' is at the two side walls.
You can also do it with truss when you design the roof -- the have a raised tie as well.
I'm not into attic storage in a working space -- ends up being junk ...like most garages
I like my buildings open -- cathedral ceilings. My newest building has both 8' and 10' -- really just for looks. It's two connected buildings. They both have raised collar ties -- so the only place it's 8' is at the two side walls.
You can also do it with truss when you design the roof -- the have a raised tie as well.
I'm not into attic storage in a working space -- ends up being junk ...like most garages
Not woodwork for me... i was limited to a 754sqft shop, so i built with nearly 20' ceiling to have a mezzanine sometime later. Because of the height, 2x6 and 2x8 walls. I figured i'd only get one shot at it in this lifetime.
I have been thinking about the 2x4 vs. 2x6. I'm considering staying with 2x4 and adding a 1" layer of Owens Corning pink foam board on the outside of the 2x4 wall. The cost difference between 2x6 and 2x4 with 1" pink foam would be almost exactly the same. Then I can add batts or spray foam insulation to the 2x4 wall to achieve R17. It would seem like the pink foam would insulate the 2x4's from the cold, and also seal up the wall considerably better.
What is a ducted split system? Is it a mini split system with ductwork piping the air to distribute it evenly?
Yankeefarmer
Well-known member
It’s called a split system because the compressor unit Is outdoors and the conditioned space heat exchanger is in the indoor air handler. Mini splits are one type of split system, called mini because there is no ductwork. Conventional central A/C units and heat pump systems are split systems, but not “mini”, because the air handling unit is larger to accomodate ductwork and condition a larger area.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
That will also **** in a lot of dust and dirt, as well as block key wall space. I'd consider using a fan to move air instead
Notgrownup
Well-known member
Minimum would be 10’. Then consider if you will have fans? If you place them where you will handle 4x8 sheets it might be in the way. I have a 24x24x10 and it hasn’t been a problem. If I was purposely build a wood shop I would consider 12’h
Voi
Well-known member
I'm surprised to hear the cost is the same but if it is I think this is a good plan, provided your local code office doesn't require engineered studs for the wall height you choose.
You might be able to get away with a cheaper foam than XPS (the blue or pink stuff) depending on the current recommendations for foam thickness for Climate Zone 5. Unfortunately the articles about ratios of exterior rigid foam to in wall batts seem to all be behind membership or pay walls so I don't know the current recommendations for 2x4 walls.
I know it's easy to go for R value per inch but many of these foams either degrade down to a similar R value over time. Something else to research.
If you'll be drying a lot of green wood in this shop or bring in snow covered plow vehicles or anything that will introduce moisture it might pay to bump up the thickness of the exterior foam. And certainly make sure you have a drying path to the interior.
MerlinsBeard
Well-known member
I'd consider 2x6" for the ceiling, gives you more insulation options, and the ceiling is typically where the best insulation investment is. I don't think 2x6" studs for wall framing buys you a whole lot.
eastbaysubaru
Well-known member
I would recommend 2x6 wall framing as it will allow for more insulation R-21 vs. R-13 (or 19, can't recall what fits in 2x4 studs). We did 2x6 in our barn and don't regret it at all. I would also suggest 12' high as any fans can get in the way and I've never heard someone say "I wish I insulated this less" or "I really wish I build this shorter" with any shop type building. Plus, if the use changes and you need the extra height, it's already there.
FWIW, we got incredibly high R-value in the roof using a "Flash and Batt" technique. They spray 3" of foam (R-21) and then add R-19 (IIRC) which equals an R-40 rating (2x12s got the flash plus R-25). It's a bit more cost effective (and can get a higher R-value) than spraying 6" of foam. YMMV.
Good luck!
-Brian
FWIW, we got incredibly high R-value in the roof using a "Flash and Batt" technique. They spray 3" of foam (R-21) and then add R-19 (IIRC) which equals an R-40 rating (2x12s got the flash plus R-25). It's a bit more cost effective (and can get a higher R-value) than spraying 6" of foam. YMMV.
Good luck!
-Brian
Post frame ?
No. Stud walls and trusses.
I'm in the final design phases of my new post frame woodshop (20x36) and am going with 10' high sidewalls and scissor trusses so the ceiling will go from 10' to approximately 15' in the center (9/12 roof pitch, 7/12 bottom chord pitch). Pleanty of headroom for a woodshop, and if I ever decide to switch gears from woodworking to cars I should be able to put a lift in there.