Recommend a clampable straight edge?

[tolken4]

I noticed in one of Jack's threads that he uses the heck out of a clamp-able straight edge. I have needed one several times now and have decided to buy one as I think I would get a ton of use out of it.

Can anyone recommend a brand?

I have found all in one, progrip, and bora seem to be a few options. Anyone use these or can recommend another?

 

[wnstwolf]

Hi Tolken I have the Bora 50" one for cross cutting plywood and the like. I wish I went with the Rolken (sp?) type that uas a mating guide that goes on the saw and can run the 8' length of sheet goods as well. I see the guys on this old house use it all the time and say to myself I need that! the bora is great and cheap but limited

 

[Falcon67]

Not exactly what you are after, but I use the **** out of this little thing:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_258636-63833-AR-200_?PL=1&productId=3028906

That's how I turned 4x8 sheets of soffitt material into 11" rips of soffitt, 9" rips of facia, etc. Takes longer to attach it to the saw than to rip 3 or 4 sheets of OSB in half.

 

[nmk_61802]

I have a Bora as well, it does it's job well, but still needs me to make sure it is setup with the correct offset and square to the cutline. I keep thinking that I will make a sled one day by fastening a straight edge to a piece of MDF then running the saw thru it to make a cutline. Once done all I need to do is align the lower edge of the sled with the cut line and have a perfect cut each time.

http://www.familyhandyman.com/DIY-T...lls/two-essential-saw-cutting-guides/View-All

 

[Joe B.]

I have a Bora and I can never get it to clamp tight. I don't know the problem is the design, a defect in the one I have or just user incompetence.

 

[tolken4]

Thanks all. Lots of bora.... How about this one? Same price and seems to get good reviews, but there are only 3 reviews.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0036VGLYY/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[rsieracki]

i have the knockoff (or maybe even the same thing as the Bora like Jack's just 'branded' differntly) from harbor freight... now i havent held them side by side but ive looked at everyone i see for sale and they all seem to be the same design just with a different name.. perhaps made by the same army of child laborers in the same factory in china with differnt brand names and quality levels)

http://www.harborfreight.com/50-inch-clamp-and-cut-edge-guide-66581.html

is what i have, has worked well so far but im looking for a 8' capacity one next

 

[Jack Olsen]

It's funny you should mention that, tolken4. I got that straight-edge last Christmas, and only pulled off the plastic for this latest project. Now I can't believe I ever doing this kind of cutting without it. I used to clamp a straight piece of wood to what I was cutting and know that I'd end up with a 'pretty straight' line. And then half the time clamping would seem like too much work and I'd just try to follow a line or even eyeball it. This thing is so quick and easy you don't even think about whether to use it. You just do.

I was thinking about starting a thread to talk about how much I like it. But this will do.

Mine is from E. Emerson Tools. It's the A50 (50") model. Not sure why I picked this model exactly (it was for the family gift exchange, where we make suggestions), but I like it.

http://www.eemersontool.com/products/products.html

It's $25 at Amazon.

 

[Zeke]

The accessory guides for a router or a circular saw are indispensable when getting a guide. I have a 48" (capable) and full sheet (96") model by 2 different mfgr's, which is not convenient.

But, that's how it goes when acquiring tools garage sale wise.

25 bucks? That's an awesome price. Some of these kits sell for 100's.

 

[slghmmr88]

I use this, and used it today as a router guide to cut some shelf standard reliefs into some full length plywood.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_119887-1099...urrentURL=?Ntt=straight+edge+guide&facetInfo=

 

[Mandres]

Check out tip #5 here for a good homemade solution:

http://www.woodsmithshop.com/download/308/7plywoodtips.pdf

I prefer this approach to a clamp-on straight edge because you don't have to measure the distance from the blade to the edge of the base and offset the guide. Once the cutting guide is built you just line the edge up with your mark and that's where it cuts.

I like the design above because you can use 1 side for your circ saw and the other for your router, jigsaw, etc.

 

[Kevin54]

I have a metal 6' ruler that I picked up at Lowes that I use for a straightedge or I use my 6' level. I need to get something that I can use to rip down an 8' sheet. Anymore it's easier to do it with a circular saw than it is to drag out the heavy Contractors saw.

 

[NUTTSGT]

At one time Sears had a set of 3 that was a bit more than a single straight edge.


EDIT: I'm wrong, it had been awhile since I flipped through the Cman catalog. The difference came between the regular models and the wide track models, not quite apples to apples. This is the set I had considered buying at one time.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...talog&cName=Woodworking&sName=Hand Toolsmv=rr

I have never used them but I figure it can't be worse than the 48" piece of aluminum flat stock and spring clamps I currently use.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Check out tip #5 here for a good homemade solution:

http://www.woodsmithshop.com/download/308/7plywoodtips.pdf

I prefer this approach to a clamp-on straight edge because you don't have to measure the distance from the blade to the edge of the base and offset the guide. Once the cutting guide is built you just line the edge up with your mark and that's where it cuts.

I like the design above because you can use 1 side for your circ saw and the other for your router, jigsaw, etc.

This is the classic, "Why didn't I think of that ?!!!"

When using it with a router, I assume you use a ball bearing guide ?

 

[Vvmvbb]

I use this, and used it today as a router guide to cut some shelf standard reliefs into some full length plywood.
http://www.lowes.com/pd_119887-1099...urrentURL=?Ntt=straight+edge+guide&facetInfo=

I use that too (Sears version, don't think they still sell it). Clamping is inelegant compared to others, but it's fine.

The Rockler is another interesting option (for completeness, I don't have this). Different clamping scheme.

 

[camarotoolman]

dry wall square works good, also nice for dry wall. Sweeze your tumb and finger on the base or your saw, slide finger along the edge works good if only cuting a strip off. If your eyes are still good, take your time a free hand the cut, touch up with a hand plane. If cross cuting score the cut with razor knife will keep if from spintering out. (plywood)

 

[Zeke]

dry wall square works good, also nice for dry wall. Sweeze your tumb and finger on the base or your saw, slide finger along the edge works good if only cuting a strip off. If your eyes are still good, take your time a free hand the cut, touch up with a hand plane. If cross cuting score the cut with razor knife will keep if from spintering out. (plywood)

I still free hand door bottoms that have been scored. Of course I have a power planer to make the cut perfect. But I can cut within a 1/16th using a worm drive. I'm 67. I wonder how much longer I will be able to do that?

I wonder how much longer I want to.

 

[Piper27]

Check out tip #5 here for a good homemade solution:

http://www.woodsmithshop.com/download/308/7plywoodtips.pdf

I prefer this approach to a clamp-on straight edge because you don't have to measure the distance from the blade to the edge of the base and offset the guide. Once the cutting guide is built you just line the edge up with your mark and that's where it cuts.

I like the design above because you can use 1 side for your circ saw and the other for your router, jigsaw, etc.

Thanks for the tip Mandres. Making me one of them tomorrow.

 

[T_Hed]

Here is a good video on how to make your own straightedge.

Easy as pie.

T

 

[RivennHewn]

If ya feel like spending a few, Festool is the way to go