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Recommend a finish nailer.

theoldwizard1

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DIY quality. Probably only shoot a couple hundred nails. 16 gauge ? I would like a Milwaukee 2841-20 but they are kind of pricey. Pneumatic is acceptable. Changing batteries brands is not acceptable !
 
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alinc100

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I've got a couple Senco pneumatics SFN 1,SFN 40 .The larger will shoot a 2-1/2" 15 gauge angled nail. I'm semi local in Dearborn. Will sell either to you for $50. For my limited usage these days I have a Dewalt cordless that uses the same nails. Its more than enough for my remodeling usage.
 

txvwnut

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Bedford, Texas
The Ryobi 16ga cordless is a decent unit. I’ve got one and it will hit right with the pneumatics that I’ve owned.
 

mslim

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Fayetteville, AR
I have Hitachi that's served me well. About $100+/-. They make great framing and roofing nailers (as does Senco) so when Porter Cable got cheaper, I went with Hitachi. (is it Metabo now?)
 

2Busy

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Williamson Cty. Tennessee
If you go pneumatic, what was Hitachi, now Metabo HPT, makes very good stuff. I have this one—it’s 15 gauge, perfect for finish work like moldings and trim work, 30 deg makes it easy to get into places.


I also have their 18 gauge brad nailer and their 18 gauge narrow crown stapler. Don’t have a 16 but they do have one if that’s what you need.

 
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AEAdam

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Consider the Milkwaukee brad stapler. Staples have good pull up force and don't back out easily. I bought mine for less than $200 as a bare tool. Very handy. I also have the 15ga Milwaukee and like that. But I use the stapler more.

Buy what you want and eBay it when you are done.

Oh, and Pneumatic is a pain for this sort of work. When I'm doing trim I need 6 fasteners. I don't start up the compressor unless I need 60 fasteners. Only Pneumatic I have left is my framing nailer.
 
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bpwoodworking

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Pretty happy with Prebena. I run an oiler on my job site compressor.

My experience with Hitachi HTP has been terrible.
 

jar944

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Hitachi/Metabo and 18g is more useful than 15/16 for trim imho
Screenshot_20230717_082824_Gallery.jpg

15g makes more sense than 16g if you need both 15 and 18. In that case you might as well get 23g.

20230715_111834.jpg20230715_111704.jpg
 
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Hohn

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If you go pneumatic, what was Hitachi, now Metabo HPT, makes very good stuff. I have this one—it’s 15 gauge, perfect for finish work like moldings and trim work, 30 deg makes it easy to get into places.


I also have their 18 gauge brad nailer and their 18 gauge narrow crown stapler. Don’t have a 16 but they do have one if that’s what you need.

I have all those as well. When they rebranded from Hitachi to Metabo HPT, the old versions were cheap so I rounded out the collection I started with the 15ga angle nailer.

I see no reason to get the 16ga straight.

I also have the 23ga pinner and I find that useful a lot more frequently than I ever would have guessed.
I've fired hundreds of fasteners through each of them and never had a feed bauble that wasn't operator error.
They run reliably and I can't overstate my satisfaction with them.

I will suggest that if I were to buy again knowing what I now know, I'd probably approach it a little differently.
The stapler and pinner I use more than either 18ga brad or 15ga finish nailer. Staplers are much stronger and work superbly for non cosmetic joints where structural concerns are most important.

The pinner is the opposite-- little holding but disappears and needs no putty or sanding. Pinner plus glue is my preferred approach-- the pins hold until the glue dries. Zero split risk in most cases. Plus it's super light in the hand and effortless to use.


If I were buying tools today, in order of utility I would rank:
  • 18ga stapler
  • 23ga pinner
  • 18ga brad nailer
  • 15ga angle nailer
I'd be tempted to swap my brad nailer for a wide crown stapler as I do less work where appearance matters and more where sheer strength is more important.
 

GeoBruin

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Lot of speculation going on in here. OP, maybe it makes sense to describe what you're actually working on since the recommendations for the size/type are all over the place.
 

AEAdam

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Lot of speculation going on in here. OP, maybe it makes sense to describe what you're actually working on since the recommendations for the size/type are all over the place.
Welcome to Garage Journal! Can we make this sticky?
 

AEAdam

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I have all those as well. When they rebranded from Hitachi to Metabo HPT, the old versions were cheap so I rounded out the collection I started with the 15ga angle nailer.

I see no reason to get the 16ga straight.

I also have the 23ga pinner and I find that useful a lot more frequently than I ever would have guessed.
I've fired hundreds of fasteners through each of them and never had a feed bauble that wasn't operator error.
They run reliably and I can't overstate my satisfaction with them.

I will suggest that if I were to buy again knowing what I now know, I'd probably approach it a little differently.
The stapler and pinner I use more than either 18ga brad or 15ga finish nailer. Staplers are much stronger and work superbly for non cosmetic joints where structural concerns are most important.

The pinner is the opposite-- little holding but disappears and needs no putty or sanding. Pinner plus glue is my preferred approach-- the pins hold until the glue dries. Zero split risk in most cases. Plus it's super light in the hand and effortless to use.


If I were buying tools today, in order of utility I would rank:
  • 18ga stapler
  • 23ga pinner
  • 18ga brad nailer
  • 15ga angle nailer
I'd be tempted to swap my brad nailer for a wide crown stapler as I do less work where appearance matters and more where sheer strength is more important.
Lets say it out loud: All of the above excel at placing pins where you need them. The problem with all finish nailers is the lack of a head. So you don't get great pull up. Ideally, if you can glue and clamp and use the finish nails to simply hold position, that's ideal. If you are tacking trim in place and expect it to stay put, the staplers excel. Only downside I've encountered is the staple hold must be puttied. They are very noticeable. And many of mine take 2 rounds of filler to really disappear.
 
OP
T

theoldwizard1

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This thread brought up a slightly different question. What gauge ?

I know I don't need 15ga, but I was not sure about 18ga. As long as I can shoot 2" long nails and has a small head, I think it might be adequate.
 

jar944

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Lets say it out loud: All of the above excel at placing pins where you need them. The problem with all finish nailers is the lack of a head. So you don't get great pull up. Ideally, if you can glue and clamp and use the finish nails to simply hold position, that's ideal. If you are tacking trim in place and expect it to stay put, the staplers excel. Only downside I've encountered is the staple hold must be puttied. They are very noticeable. And many of mine take 2 rounds of filler to really disappear.

I expect trim to stay in place with 18g brads, I would not use a 18g narrow crown for anything visible.

23g need something additional to hold permanently.
 

jar944

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This thread brought up a slightly different question. What gauge ?

I know I don't need 15ga, but I was not sure about 18ga. As long as I can shoot 2" long nails and has a small head, I think it might be adequate.

Assuming we are talking about trimming out a house 3/4" moulding and under: 18g

1"+ 15/16g unless you are nailing into solid wood then 18g is fine.

Also on the gun grind the nail end of the piston to be the same size as the head of the nail so you have smaller holes to fill.
 

Hohn

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This thread brought up a slightly different question. What gauge ?

I know I don't need 15ga, but I was not sure about 18ga. As long as I can shoot 2" long nails and has a small head, I think it might be adequate.
The main reason to consider 15ga would be if you needed the slight extra length offered in the 15ga vs 18ga brads. There's precious little a 15ga does that a brad nailer doesn't, however. Especially if you have a brad nail that can go 2", the 15ga is getting you a tiny bit more holding and maybe another half inch of nail.
Probably not enough incremental advantage to justify an additional larger tool.
 

RTM

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SF Bay Area
Assuming we are talking about trimming out a house 3/4" moulding and under: 18g

1"+ 15/16g unless you are nailing into solid wood then 18g is fine.
3/4" molding plus drywall thickness, I would think a 1" nail of any type might be insufficient.

My molding is mostly 5/8", and with 1/2" drywall, I run 2" 16g nails in my PC gun
 

jar944

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3/4" molding plus drywall thickness, I would think a 1" nail of any type might be insufficient.

My molding is mostly 5/8", and with 1/2" drywall, I run 2" 16g nails in my PC gun

1" moulding, not 1" nails.

2" nails 18g nails for 3/4" moulding into drywall.
2.5" 15g nails for 1"+ moulding into drywall
1.5" 18g nails for 3/4" moulding into 3/4" plywood/solid backer or 2" 18g nails for 1"-1.25".moulding into 3/4-1" solid wood.
1-1.25" 18g nails for casing into jambs.

I usually have a 18g gun loaded with 2" and another with 1.25". The 15g is only ever loaded with 2.5". 23g can be 5/8 to 2" depending.

Or on multiple layer casing (2" thick at the backband) 2.5 or 3" spax screws under the second layer.
 
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