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Recommend a table saw

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shannonw

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Ahhh , really for that i'd use a circular saw and it would be much cheaper...in the vid it's all straight cuts. It's a good all around first saw and 2 plastic saw horses. The miter is really for when you need to do alot of mitered cuts though quick cutoffs are a +.

But you could just go to lowes and tell them you need your lumber cut to X length. Which from a quick look at the video is all you'd need.
 

BFHtime

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You could use a hand saw and a mitre box. That would be cheaper. Take your time and you can make nice finish cuts.
 

shannonw

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I hear ya, honestly i'm not an expert either..just around the house stuff. Really for this type stuff it won't matter what brand you buy , just buy a brand name.

You don't use it like say a builder would, and like me you're not skilled enough to know the difference....it's not until after i've used something a matter of time that i understand the difference in quality and features of tools.

They will have a cheap blade and should be a blade for lumber (instead of more, finer teeth for cutting plywood) but you won't notice on this type of lumber and yard project...save buying a good blade for the next project. I still use whatever came with my circular 10 years ago for this type stuff, though did at some point put a better blade on when i got to using it to make projects around the house and needed a finer cut. For this you don't even need a saw horse, just 2 wood scraps so when you cut through your blade doesn't hit the ground.

I buy decent stuff, my neighbor drags home 20 year old beat up tools from yard sales and does twice the job i do on things, takes him a bit longer and 1/2 the times comes over and borrows mine but I'd rather be like him!

But the first decent power tool I had I was given on our first home, a circular saw, and i used a miter box for other stuff. It's not until you find yourself doing a lot of repetitive cuts, miters or numerous that you think dang i could have done this in 30 minutes as opposed to hours. So if i had to start anywhere i'd start at a circular..and it's safer for a 1st timer than a table saw, then a miter, then table saw.

Though a circular saw is something that as a first tool you'll use a long time if you take care of it, so maybe others have suggestions on what's out there now. Major things i notice with circulars are left or right (which side the motor and blade are on), ejection port, and the base. Some like steel bases for durability, i really like thick cast aluminum like on my older porter cable as it's very rigid and i know dead on the distance to the blade (but in a harsh environment can crack instead of bend).Things like lasers are a bit handy in hindsight but usually on cheaper stuff not all that accurate....still handy to quickly line up then fine tune though.

With a circular plan on a couple of clamps as well you'll use those and scrap straight piece of wood or a straight edge to get straight cuts easier, not so much on this but more so any future project you plan.

Either way google on safety. Stuff that seems really simple in hind sight you think dang i shouldn't have done that.
 

shannonw

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One thing i pay attention to now that i never did when i was first getting into tools, is the actual power of tools is all hidden in the fine print...as that doesn't sell. it's the gizmos, looks,etc at these big box stores as it's mostly regular joes like us buying all the stuff and hell what do we know.

So for saws it would be motor amps..though circular saws unless heavy duty are probably going to be 14 or 15. But things like hey i need a cordless drill you go there, come home, then realize you bought the special and have a 1 ah battery pack...you never even thought of that nor to look at the ah of the battery because you were looking at the big bold 20V print =) Then you google and find out the difference is the single units have 3ah battery packs and they packaged smaller batteries for the deal.

Not really relevant to the conversation but man that's one thing i always wished i knew off the bat when buying my first power tool. Not sure how much of a difference it would have really made, but it bugged me ever since that i realized i had never even bothered to look at the basic unit of measurement (which surely all pro's do!).
 

shannonw

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On the craftsmen though (was just looking at it), see i like the base it's thick aluminum but that's just me, it's easier to but up against stuff I find, doesn't flex. However on a jobsite you can't bang and bend those up like you do steel they can crack from abuse (from what i've read).

Also notice when you're holding the saw assuming your right handed. The blade is on the right. I don't even know if they have it the other way these days, but myself i like it on the left as I can see the cut better especially on long cuts of plywood when i first started using a circular...but the downside is you get more sawdust flying towards you so you really need a dust port on those to direct it away, even then i wear eye stuff for even the simpliest of cuts with it.

Though that may also be because that's the first saw i was given and am used to it. But either way as a first timer hopefully things like that get you thinking about how you'll use them...as i never noticed or thought about that stuff until much later down the road. Most will probably just get em and rip em.
 

shannonw

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Based on a quick search at the big box store, i'd also look at the dewalt, makita or the bosch one. I only looked 5 minutes but the dewalt and bosch are 15 amps, and my guess is they are lighter than the craftsmen (and only 10 bucks more). The bosch is even a left blade side one which i like..i just found it helpful as a first saw when free handing cuts, much easier to see then trying to eye over (at the expense of more dust in the face). And the makita is $99 but it's only 10.5 amps...i imagine it's a lot lighter and even less amps would probably suit your needs too. Really these type things it helps to go look at them, you're looking at how you like the shoe base, how heavy it is (though for a project here and there isn't a big deal), and how rigid things are...if the tilt mechanism is flimsy it's not going to be all that true when you get to more detailed projects. Reviews from publications helps as they most of the time will point out some things us inexperienced types may not think about.

But the craftsmen may be a fine saw, those are just ones i'd want to see due to typically being better brands and they're only a few bucks more.
 
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xbeatles4x

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well for trying to eyeball it the craftsman does have a laser to show you where it is cutting. I primarily wanted to know if the craftsman one was decent or not. I am sort of a craftsman guy even though they have changed throughout the years.

Side note given the proper blade could it cut metal?
 

Stuart in MN

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You could use a hand saw and a mitre box. That would be cheaper. Take your time and you can make nice finish cuts.

If you don't have other projects in mind this is what I'd do, for that matter a raised garden isn't fine woodworking so you don't even need a miter box, just a saw. It's really not that much slower or harder than using a power saw.
 

shoturtle

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you will need a sliding miter saw, the regular chop miter will not work. If you are going with 2"x10" or smaller. If you need higher, you will need a table saw.
 

shoturtle

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If you go with the hand held circular saw, unless you are super steady. Get your self some claps and so you can clamp on a guide bar to ensure straight cuts. That is something the miter saws are good besides miter cuts. When the wood is sitting flush against the back rail. You will get a straight cut. Also save yourself some headaches and get a 60 tooth blade for the 7 1/4 circular saw. It will chip way less then the 24t that are packaged with most circular saws.
 
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bcradio

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you will need a sliding miter saw, the regular chop miter will not work. If you are going with 2"x10" or smaller. If you need higher, you will need a table saw.

You could always flip the board if needed... the cut just won't be as nice.
 

puttsy

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For a first time circular saw user, get a cheap Skil. Not what they used to be but still the best affordable circular saw. Get a 7-1/4" and it will last until you out grow it.

If your looking for a tablesaw, a used, older Craftsman can't be beat if you get a decent price.

Also, my tool of choice for quick cuts is a compound miter saw. I got a 10" Hitachi for ~100 and it was well worth it. Doesn't compare to the 15" sliding DeWalt I used to use but, for a budget DIY, It's hard to beat.

Good luck man, and remember, safety first. Hearing AND eye protection. And ALWAYS be aware of where the blade, your fingers, and clothing are. You can buy new lumber and tools, you can't buy new body parts, muscles, tendons, or bones.

Also, pick up a speed square when you get a circular say. They are worth every penny...preference is a Swanson but, most are good enough to guide a first timer with a circular saw.
 
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puttsy

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Side note given the proper blade could it cut metal?

Yes, you would be looking for a cutoff wheel or cutoff blade. There are no teeth on them, they are usually black, and you need to but slowly and let the blade do the work. Also, it makes the material really hot so be careful.
 

the1nonlyjl

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Don't get the craftsman mitre saw. I had one. It got shot from doing wood flooring project. I returned it back then went ahead get ridgid 10" sliding mitre saw from home depot. Love it! It is a beast! Spend 100 dollars more on this saw. Forget the cman one.

As for tablesaw- porter cable/ridgid both r good. If porter cable, lowes has it.
 
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Nowater

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Check out about kickback before you fire up any tablesaw. And I am partial to Delta unisaws, available used for a decent price. Mine is 30 years old!
 

shoturtle

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A speed square works great as a guide for a circular saw. Cheap and easy to use.

You still need to clamp them down so they do not move. I normally uses what I have available that is the right length. Sometime I clamp my level or a 2x4 as a guide.
 

woody 73

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Try this approach, since we are talking about (4) boards for a simple box take your measurements to lowes/HD and let them cut the boards for you; I think lowes will cut the first three boards for free and fifty cents each additional cut.

Now that will only solve a quick and easy fix for your mom, because you will want in time to buy a nice saw for yourself to do other projects in the coming years so:

Take your time and read some consumer reports,ask a few more questions and keep your eyes open for a good deal on your local CL for a good saw to buy.

just think now your mom is going to say...I see you have more power & hand tools maybe you could build an addition to the house, fix the running toilet and get the car to run better.:lol_hitti
 

softailgarage

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If you have the experience, I recommend a table saw, an old Craftsman 10" (1940's - 1960's). They're small and portable but do the trick and they're cheap, all over CL for less than $100. I started out with a power hand saw, then a sliding compound miter saw and always found it easier to work with and got straighter lines with the table saw.
If you dont have experience with table saws before you try one take a class or learn from somebody that has one. Kickbacks are no fun!
 

shoturtle

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Here is a good example why kickback is a bad thing.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/Z-gMTKIfCnQ" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
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xbeatles4x

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Yah due to lack of space at the moment for a table saw I think I will go with a normal had circular saw for the time being and maybe get a saw horse that folds.
 

shoturtle

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It is a decent table saw. And for the price, it is a great value. I like the bosch and dewalt better, but they are allot more money.

But for what you are planning to do, a sliding miter saw might be a better idea if you want to get a nicer saw then a circular saw. And it is allot easier to learn to use and safer for someone not really heavy into wood working. And if you are getting 10" long planks that you will cut down. The miter will allow you to cut them in half, not sure the fence of the table saw will allow you to go out to 5"
 
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xbeatles4x

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Well I just spoke with my mom and she ok'd the idea of the table saw that is on sale. Now my question. She is going to have be cut weston red cedar. What kind of blade do I need?

Online I am reading that it requires a fine tooth, sharp blade. What would that translate too? A 60 tooth, 100 tooth, 200 tooth?
 

shoturtle

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Well I just spoke with my mom and she ok'd the idea of the table saw that is on sale. Now my question. She is going to have be cut weston red cedar. What kind of blade do I need?

Online I am reading that it requires a fine tooth, sharp blade. What would that translate too? A 60 tooth, 100 tooth, 200 tooth?

60T and up are fine too. It you can get a 10" blade with 80t. That would work great. Not sure you will fine a 100t in a 10" blade. But you are going to add another 40-150 dollars to the price tag with a fine tooth blade with 60t-80t.
 
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shoturtle

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Not sure how good that blade is from Cmans. But I normally buy Feud or Forrest blades for wood working. They are really high end blades and cut great.
 

the1nonlyjl

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Not sure how good that blade is from Cmans. But I normally buy Feud or Forrest blades for wood working. They are really high end blades and cut great.

Yup agreed! I won't buy any garbages from sears when it comes down to drill bits, blades for miter/table saws. Feud and Forrest blades are the best choices
 
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