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Recommend leak detector...

DHS

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I am I diy only so I can not see spending a lot of money on one. On eBay there is a company that sells ac equipment. Viot and they sell everything. I am looking at getting some hoses from they already and was just curious if anyone had any experience with them. I have a leak I need to find, a leak large enough that after a month I can see a decrease in performance.

I think its the high pressure switch only because it seems juicy around it. There is no die in the system but when I evacuate to make repairs I will put some in for future repairs.

I should have put dye in it before but did not. I dont have the glasses or the light for it either. I just thought an electronic leak detector would be a better way to go.

If no one can recommend Voit, who else makes a decent cheap leak detector?
 
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55bigblockcid

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If the leak is as large as you say ,all you need is a spray bottle with soapy water in it .Spray around suspected area and you will more than likely see bubbles forming.I do hvac work for a living on huge systems and find the soap bubbles work better than a leak detector in most cases.If it is a really cold area like negative temperature you can buy big blue low temp leak detector at a supply house.This is the cheapest way to check for a leak and sometimes the fastest.
 
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DHS

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I will fire it up and try soap water, but I still am interested in a leak detector. We borrowed a snap on once already and hate to borrow something twice. It would be nice to have around. How often do you have to replace the tip/sensor?
 

domain

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Soap. I recently found and repaired a very small leak. Soap would barely bubble. I used a general tools leak detector on the highest sensitivity. Did not register what so ever.
 

philjafo

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The problem with Freon leak detectors is cheap ones don't work very well and the expensive ones are hard to justify if your not using it on a regular basis to make money fixing ac equipment. Soap or leak detection solutions work as long as the leak isn't in the evaporator or condensor coils.
 
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DHS

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That is what I was afraid of. As far as using dye, it seems simple is there really any difference between cheap and expensive?
 

55bigblockcid

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The problem with Freon leak detectors is cheap ones don't work very well and the expensive ones are hard to justify if your not using it on a regular basis to make money fixing ac equipment. Soap or leak detection solutions work as long as the leak isn't in the evaporator or condensor coils.

That`s what I say as well .It`s very hard to justify a good one unless you use it often.Iv`e spent hours and sometimes days looking for leaks.Most times you can find it with a soapy solution.It`s the first thing I grab when looking for a leak.Dye as a last resort just because you can easily get it everywhere if your not careful with it as well as being expensive.
 

Tarheelgarage

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Electronic refrigerant leak detector: Inficon Dtek Select :rocker:

I also use nitrogen to confirm repairs on ac systems....
 
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DHS

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Haha, thanks for your help 55bb. I will give the soap a try. I will also see if anyone local has any Big Blu in stock.

Hope I did not offend ya, I do appreciate your help.
 
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philjafo

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He lectured you because the EPA is very strict with refrigerant and the regulations regarding its recovery. They are the reason ac repair costs as much as it does, and none of the tools are cheap. Its easy to have 2-3000 dollars in tools just for working on air conditioners, then there's the tools for working with the air handling equipment and fuel burning appliances. I'm not trying to tell you not to do it yourself, I understand the satisfaction that comes from making something that's broke, work again its why I fix things for a living, just that the cost of the tools to do it correctly isnt really saving anything. Not to mention that if its not done correctly it can be damaged beyond repair. Just curious where are you getting refrigerant? As far as I know you have to be licensed to buy it.
 
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DHS

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R134 I can buy it at Walmart or Big Lots. No lic. needed. I am hoping the soap will find it and it is just the high pressure switch. I think I can change it with out evacuating.

I deleted an unneeded post, which is the one I think pushed 55BB away. I will be more conscientious of what I post when people are trying to help. Thanks
 
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philjafo

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Ohhh, automotive ac, that's a whole different animal. If you suspect the switch just replace it, please take it somewhere to have what refrigerant is left in it removed then replace the switch and do all the o-rings a set with every o-ring only cost a few bucks and that way you only have to evacuate it once. Get your 134 from an auto parts store and they can look up your car and tell you exactly how much is supposed to be in it, and get the stuff with the dye and leak sealant in it. Then if the sealant doesn't stop the leak all you gotta get is a black light and the glasses.

Please don't try to change that switch with Freon still in the system, the pressure is higher then you think and will give you frostbite if you get any skin in the way of the spray. Good luck
 
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OHMS LAW

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NEVER PUT SEALANT IN YOUR SYSTEM!!!! it will damage your whole system and then the next time you will have to Pay a PROFESSIONAL to fix what you destroyed.
 
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DHS

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Ohhh, automotive ac, that's a whole different animal. If you suspect the switch just replace it, please take it somewhere to have what refrigerant is left in it removed then replace the switch and do all the o-rings a set with every o-ring only cost a few bucks and that way you only have to evacuate it once. Get your 134 from an auto parts store and they can look up your car and tell you exactly how much is supposed to be in it, and get the stuff with the dye and leak sealant in it. Then if the sealant doesn't stop the leak all you gotta get is a black light and the glasses.

Please don't try to change that switch with Freon still in the system, the pressure is higher then you think and will give you frostbite if you get any skin in the way of the spray. Good luck

I believe there is a schrader valve under the pressure switches so you can change them with out loss of refrigerant. All the orings were just replaced, I also replaced the rubber lines (due to leak), accumulator, and the orfice.





NEVER PUT SEALANT IN YOUR SYSTEM!!!! it will damage your whole system and then the next time you will have to Pay a PROFESSIONAL to fix what you destroyed.

Ya putting something in there meant to clog leaks sounds like a bad idea anyways.
 
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DHS

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Well guys, thank you for all your help. After spraying all joints with soap water I found no leaks. So I started spraying every part of the ac system I could with soap water and found the leak. It was coming out of the body of the compressor down in the saddle/bracket. The compressor is still under warranty so I am going to go and get in swapped tomorrow.

I drained the old compressor and got about 1/8-1/4oz of oil out of it. Not sure how much there should be. When I install new compressor I think I am going to replace the accumulator, orifice, and flush the evaporator. The condenser was just replaced and I don't think I can flush that style. Once I do that I believe I can add the factory spec amount of oil 3.5 to accumulator and 4.5 to the compressor?

If anyone sees any flaws with this please let me know.
 

rlitman

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The problem with Freon leak detectors is cheap ones don't work very well and the expensive ones are hard to justify if your not using it on a regular basis to make money fixing ac equipment. Soap or leak detection solutions work as long as the leak isn't in the evaporator or condensor coils.

I have the Viot HLD-9, and have used it side by side with an Inficon. The Viot is a quarter the price, and at least as good a tool. I cannot speak for other cheap ones, but this is the real deal.

The problem with leak detectors, is that they are not a magic bullet. On a car, bubble solution is probably your best bet (but I have used the detector to confirm evaporator leaks).
 

Mechanico

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Im in the market for a leak detector as well. Bubbles no doubt is great where you can actually see but for evap its not a viable solution.
 

zmaxmotorsports

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I believe there is a schrader valve under the pressure switches so you can change them with out loss of refrigerant. All the orings were just replaced, I also replaced the rubber lines (due to leak), accumulator, and the orfice.







Ya putting something in there meant to clog leaks sounds like a bad idea anyways.
Best way I know to find a leak is to pump the system up with 300lbs of nitrogen and listen,Blowing on a leak detector will set it off.:lol:
If the shrader valve is leaking Id change them all and pump nitrogen into the system and let it sit for an hr to check for leaks ,Then pump it down and recharge it.;)
 
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