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Recommend me a 12"ish Band Saw

sunshineFC3s

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MN
Hello everyone,
I'm looking to buy a verical (either bench top or stand top) band saw. I think a 12" model would be a good size, but I would consider a larger one if the price is right. I'm looking to spend about $300 (I would be willing to buy a used one that retailed for more originally, but it still needs to be in my current price range used).

My problem has been that I can't be sure that some of these "cheaper" models can do metal. I'm a weekend warrior, so the projects will be minor metal fab work. Is there a way to regulate the blade speed on these? Maybe pull double duty as metal/wood? I looked at the Craftsmans, and the Lowes/HD selection (Jet, Cheap Delta, Rigid, etc)...like I said...I'm not convinced the ones in my price range will serve me rigth.
Thanks,
-alex
 
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Uncle Buck

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Hello everyone,
I'm looking to buy a verical (either bench top or stand top) band saw. I think a 12" model would be a good size, but I would consider a larger one if the price is right. I'm looking to spend about $300 (I would be willing to buy a used one that retailed for more originally, but it still needs to be in my current price range used).

My problem has been that I can't be sure that some of these "cheaper" models can do metal. I'm a weekend warrior, so the projects will be minor metal fab work. Is there a way to regulate the blade speed on these? Maybe pull double duty as metal/wood? I looked at the Craftsmans, and the Lowes/HD selection (Jet, Cheap Delta, Rigid, etc)...like I said...I'm not convinced the ones in my price range will serve me rigth.
Thanks,
-alex

If you want to pull double duty for both wood and metal, then your choice will need to be a metal saw by definition. The feet per minute travel speed on a metal saw is not nearly as fast as a saw defined as a wood band saw. If you try to cut steel with a band saw blade that is traveling too fast,(as it would be on a wood band saw) you will burn the blade up. You can usually adjust the speed of either wood or metal cutting band saws in both the vertical, or horizontal configuration through the choice of step pulleys selected, at least most smaller home shop sized machines are this way; as you step up to machines of a more industrial nature I am sure speed selection choices are still available, but much more complicated than a simple step pulley setup on better quality machines. I hope this helps. :thumbup:
 

Uncle Buck

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So, what do you think about this model? With the C'man Club...its going for $299, so its in my budget. http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/prod...ical=TOOL&subcat=Band+Saws&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes

It says its a two speed and can cut non-ferrous metals. But I'm going to be working with thin steel mostly (as soon as I buy the MIG welder). Do you think that with a blade upgrade, it can do steel?
Thanks,
-a

Well it looks like you found one that can handle both of your needs! Make sure and take a look at the 35 opinions given in the online reviews section for that saw. It looked to me like the reviews were generally favorable. (I defer to Steve in Mi and stand corrected!)
 
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Steve in Mi

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The craftsman saw you point out will not be suitable for cutting steel.

Cut hardwood softwood and non ferrous metal

A non ferrous metal means it does not contain iron.

The speeds 1450/3000 fpm are far to fast for steel cutting. Aluminum and wood (maybe some brass). Steel is cut at ~ 135 fpm making that saw ten times too fast even on the low speed. It can probably be modified to do the job successfully incorporating any one of a number of fixes but it is not going to work as is. I have an older 1971 Craftsman 12" bandsaw I have cut a lot of aluminum @` 2100 fpm, steel @ 135 fpm and wood @ 3,000 fpm. I used a gearbox and belt & pulley changes initially and later changed it to DC motor and controller operation.
 

Uncle Buck

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The craftsman saw you point out will not be suitable for cutting steel.



A non ferrous metal means it does not contain iron.

The speeds 1450/3000 fpm are far to fast for steel cutting. Aluminum and wood (maybe some brass). Steel is cut at ~ 135 fpm making that saw ten times too fast even on the low speed. It can probably be modified to do the job successfully incorporating any one of a number of fixes but it is not going to work as is. I have an older 1971 Craftsman 12" bandsaw I have cut a lot of aluminum @` 2100 fpm, steel @ 135 fpm and wood @ 3,000 fpm. I used a gearbox and belt & pulley changes initially and later changed it to DC motor and controller operation.

Thank You, I could not remember the proper speed, only that steel needed to be cut slow. You prolly saved this guy alot of grief!:thumbup:
 
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sunshineFC3s

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The craftsman saw you point out will not be suitable for cutting steel.

Hmmm, thanks for the advice. I'm glad I asked!
Its looking like I'm not going to be able to find a band saw for that price that can do ~135fpm. At least on the Sears website, all the models that can do metal are close to the thousand dollar range.

If anyone has any suggestions for an affordable band saw...pleas step forward!
Thanks again,
-alex
 

Uncle Buck

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Hmmm, thanks for the advice. I'm glad I asked!
Its looking like I'm not going to be able to find a band saw for that price that can do ~135fpm. At least on the Sears website, all the models that can do metal are close to the thousand dollar range.

If anyone has any suggestions for an affordable band saw...pleas step forward!
Thanks again,
-alex

Nothing like buying a new tool and working on it, but this would solve your problem, buy the saw you identified then do this. Or, get the article first, then the saw!:thumbup:

There was an article in the Home Shop Machinist magazine a few years back that detailed how to convert a vertical cutting wood saw to cut metal. The article went into great detail and involved the incorporation of a counter shaft or something of the like to act as a speed reducer. It was a good article. If you simply call their offices at the number displayed on their website and tell them what article you are looking for they will photocopy and send to you for a nominal fee such as $10.00 or so. I ordered an article from them several years back and they were great to work with. Anyway if you want to try and convert your saw, it is worth consideration. Lotsa Luck.
 
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sunshineFC3s

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Messages
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Location
MN
There was an article in the Home Shop Machinist magazine a few years back that detailed how to convert a vertical cutting wood saw to cut metal. The article went into great detail and involved the incorporation of a counter shaft or something of the like to act as a speed reducer. It was a good article. If you simply call their offices at the number displayed on their website and tell them what article you are looking for they will photocopy and send to you for a nominal fee such as $10.00 or so. I ordered an article from them several years back and they were great to work with. Anyway if you want to try and convert your saw, it is worth consideration. Lotsa Luck.

hholmberg you rock!
I went on their website, found the article, and ordered it for $7...all in 5 min time! I love the internet!
Just for reference, its "Convert a woodcutting band saw to cut metal", by Jim Gavin, Volume 23, Issue 1, Jan/Feb 2004.
If anyone wants, I can scan the article once I receive it and post it up for future reference.
Thanks again!!!
-alex
 
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Steve in Mi

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Mar 13, 2007
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Got any more details of this set up? I bought a large (26") old meat saw this weekend. I would like to add a speed control to it.

What brand is your meat saw? I sold a BIRO 18" meat cutting bandsaw this Spring that was slated for conversion for the 12 years I owned it, never got around to it. I did use the saw to cut/skive urethane foam in its as is condition so did get some use of it in the meantime. I did buy blade guides for converting it and still have them as the saw's new owner is a meat cutter and is using the saw as intended - for meat cutting.

Things to consider in making the changeover;
1.)Upper and lower guides - the nylon guides most have are not suitable for blade control in metal cutting.
2.)The addition of tires for the wheels so you don't knock the set out of the blade teeth.
3.)Suitable speed control for the materials you want to cut. There probably are more but I can think of 6 ways to acheive this (methods I have actually used). Jack shaft with pulleys & belt changes, gear reducers and belt changes, variable sheeve drive, DC motor, 3 ph motor and vfd, hydraulic drive.
4.)Misc. items for some. Table blade insert, tire brushes, external motor cooling, derating drive HP to overcome drive friction/losses, 3 ph to single phase conversion, chip and /or sawdust take away. blade cooling. I'm sure I haven't exhausted the possibilities but these are the factors that come to mind presently.

The BIRO was a good candidate, why I selected it in the first place, because of the ratchet blade tightening/tensioning mechanism that allowed a very wide range of blade lengths to be used.

I would need to know more about your 26" saw to make any specific reccommendations. HP, motor size and phase, photos of the present guides used, etc.. I could give details on my DC drive but there is little chance it will translate to saw as large as yours.
 
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