Recommend me a MIG welder

[dsmnickk90]

I'm in the market for a MIG welder, not sure who to go with Miller, Hobart or lincoln. It will mainly because used for exhaust and welding nuts to broken bolts/studs.

 

[Ign]

You really need to provide more info, primarily your skill/experience with welding and your power requirements.

But given that you sound like a novice I'd say Hobart Handler 140 if it must be 110V. After that I'd recommend the Hobart 210MVP to have the capability of both 110V and 220V. After that a new inverter Miller 211. Pretty much in order of budget, lowest to highest.

 

[bcradio]

I love my miller 211

 

[dsmnickk90]

I can supply 240v if I really needed to. I have done a decent about of welding before. I would just like something in the garage for automotive related welding. Maybe light fab work from time to time

 

[DGersic]

I recently bought a Hobart 140. Still learning to use it, having never welded anything before. Seems to be very well made and easy to use. You can save on the price by buying their "factory refurbished" off their web site. Looks brand new to me. Shipping for the 140 to northern Illinois was $6 and took a couple of days.


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[Ign]

I can supply 240v if I really needed to. I have done a decent about of welding before. I would just like something in the garage for automotive related welding. Maybe light fab work from time to time

Then if you can get 220/240 do it.

So I say Hobart MVP or Miller 211.

 

[NedNorton]

I have a Hobart 210 (non MVP) for MIG and a Hobart Tigwave 250 for Tig. For general use the 210 does everything I have asked of it (light fab mostly). The new MVP version is good but if the funds allow I would look at the Miller inverter 211. If you are a practiced welder fixed voltage taps, like on the Hobart, work great but, there are times that I would love to just dial up or down the voltage a little bit and not have to adjust feed or travel speed. The miller lets you do that with its infinite voltage control. On the 110 vs. 220 - If 220 is at all possible go that route. It just simply makes the welder more versatile in that you can get good penetration on thicker stock.

You mentioned exhaust work. I like to TIG that stuff. Good news is that you can use a Hobart 165 (or miller equivalent) since the metal is thin. Or, better yet, go with the Miller 215 and have the ability to do both MIG and TIG. It won't TIG aluminum but should provide a good way to dabble in TIG and definatly fill the exhaust welding need.

Hope that this helps. Good luck!

Cheers,
Chris

 

[ItsNemo]

Miller 215...skip the 211 and grab the one that will let you do more if you need to. The price difference in the grand scheme of things is negligible.

 

[racintj]

I'm in the market for a MIG welder, not sure who to go with Miller, Hobart or lincoln. It will mainly because used for exhaust and welding nuts to broken bolts/studs.

Something like the Miller Multimatic 215 might work well. Pretty forgiving but also will TIG and Stick weld. 110 and 220V

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[WittHay]

I have the Lincoln 210 MP, got it before the Miller 215 was available.

Really like the Lincoln, but would be interesting to know if one has advantages over the other. They sell for the same price up here.

 

[minytrker]

I bought a Hobart Handler 135 around 15 years ago open box at a welding store. They replaced it with the 140 I believe. I cant even count how many big spools of wire I have put through it and never had an issue until last month. The switch on the gun went out so I just ordered a whole new gun assembly since mine was so old. Its been a great welder. However if you can I always recommend buying the 220V version of any welder if you can over 110.

 

[speed bump]

For what you have​ described a Hobart 140 or equivalent will do the job just fine.

Really the only difference I have noticed in machines that size is the settings tuning. I tend to tune with voltage on the Lincoln or century machines and wire speed on the Miller or Hobarts.

 

[sberry]

A 240 machine is twice as good. You are on the right track. if you can live without 120 volt it changes a lot. Everything else is extra expense but doesn't make it work any better. The 210 class is just a pinch better on the top end than the 180. Lincoln and Hobart still have simple tapped machines which I like better than infinate voltage really, so much easier to set and reset. The Lincoln 180 from the box stores is still near 700$ and is a very, very good machine with one of the best arcs in the business. The 240v machine will run 030 solid wire, it gives it 2x the poop of a 140. Hobart 187 or 190 too, very good as are the 210's.

 

[Marcm157]

I am only a home shop guy but I do everything I need to welding wise with my Miller 190 - Basically the same machine as a 211 but does not have the dual voltage capability which for me was no big deal. If you are new to welding the "Autoset" feature works really well to get you dialed in close enough until you learn to tweak settings manually...

 

[BD1]

If you want a MILLER , their REBATE is good until end of March.
https://www.weldersupply.com/C/36/MigWelding

 

[Showkey]

Eastwood MIG is a great value ...........free shipping and 3 year warranty.

175 amp with a spool gun for under $500 delivered !!!!

http://www.eastwood.com/mig-welders...xvPWj3oYP3GNIBbqFPZ3brreCbFFzNwCbgaAo1R8P8HAQ

 

[slackdaddy1]

What he said x 1000
I have an older Lincoln 110v mig with infinite voltage, I have had it for 20+ years. I needed a larger machine and bought a Hobart 210MVP to save money over the Miller.
I HATE the "set" tapped voltage selection of the Hobart, so much that I am going to sell at a loss and by a Lincoln. Nothing worse than not being able to make fine adjustments on the voltage. I end up having to pick a "set" voltage and attempt to adjust the wire speed, but that NEVER works out as good as a voltage adjustment.

By once, cry once

I have a Hobart 210 (non MVP) for MIG and a Hobart Tigwave 250 for Tig. For general use the 210 does everything I have asked of it (light fab mostly). The new MVP version is good but if the funds allow I would look at the Miller inverter 211. If you are a practiced welder fixed voltage taps, like on the Hobart, work great but, there are times that I would love to just dial up or down the voltage a little bit and not have to adjust feed or travel speed. The miller lets you do that with its infinite voltage control.

 

[dsmnickk90]

I talked to a welder I work with today a I'm pretty sure I'm going to go with the miller 211

 

[Marcm157]

I talked to a welder I work with today a I'm pretty sure I'm going to go with the miller 211

If you don't need the dual voltage option you can save some money by going with a 190. Same machine except no 110 option...

 

[STANIMAL]

I have a Hobart 140 . It works great was $500 shipped to my door .

 

[dsmnickk90]

If you don't need the dual voltage option you can save some money by going with a 190. Same machine except no 110 option...

For only a couple extra hundred bucks I think having the option of portability is worth it

I have a Hobart 140 . It works great was $500 shipped to my door .

He said from his experience unless your only ever going to weld sheet metal or 1/16th wall stuff a 110v weld is a waste

 

[STANIMAL]

For only a couple extra hundred bucks I think having the option of portability is worth it


He said from his experience unless your only ever going to weld sheet metal or 1/16th wall stuff a 110v weld is a waste

....what experience.

 

[bcradio]

For only a couple extra hundred bucks I think having the option of portability is worth it


He said from his experience unless your only ever going to weld sheet metal or 1/16th wall stuff a 110v weld is a waste

I think you will like having the dual voltage. Plugging in the 120v lets you weld the thin stuff with more control.

 

[Firebrick43]

Miller owns Hobart. The machines many times share many components and many times the Hobart they are plastic while the Miller will be aluminum in the wire feed mechanism. The Miller will have more features as well.

Lincoln makes a great machine as well. What you really need to do is pick the closest and best local dealer. Tough sh$t Charlie's (tractor supply) or an online shop is not going to be very helpful 5 years down the road when you have a problem.

 

[SiGmA_X]

I think you will like having the dual voltage. Plugging in the 120v lets you weld the thin stuff with more control.

This. I don't regret spending a little more on my 211 at all. It's made body metal a lot easier to weld (keep in mind I'm an occasional weldor) and it's been ideal for myself and friends to take to job sites that didn't have 240v within extension cord range.

I would *definitely* go for a 240v capable unit over a 120v only, but I like switchable for portability. If I couldn't afford a 211 (~$1,080) I would go with a MM190 (~$915) or a HH210 (~$900). I imagine quality is damn near identical between HH and MM, considering they're made on the same line. I've read about random failures on all 3 brands, and I have friends with all 3 brands with no issues - mostly all hobby welders, one is a semi-pro and he welds blue too (pro race shop, second job cuz 40hr/wk isn't enough). YMMV, its life!

 

[Firebrick43]

I think you will like having the dual voltage. Plugging in the 120v lets you weld the thin stuff with more control.

Where do you get this idea from??? Most of the portable dual voltage models do not weld better on 120 in any thickness than on 240.

 

[dsmnickk90]

....what experience.

He owns a fab company and is a welder by trade. He personal has a Hobart 140 and a miller 250 in his shop.

 

[bcradio]

Where do you get this idea from??? Most of the portable dual voltage models do not weld better on 120 in any thickness than on 240.

Experience... why?

 

[sk farmer]

I think you will like having the dual voltage. Plugging in the 120v lets you weld the thin stuff with more control.

i am confused by this. i can't see any improvement of weld @ 120 over 220 with my 211.

as others have said though. the 211 has just a touch more umph over the 180 class welders plus the added feature of the 110 volt option.

my 2011 catalog specs which should cover all of the transformer models is like this.

1. amp range, 30-180 vs 30-210

2. 135a at 30% vs 150a at 35% (90a at 20% on 120volt)

3. 1/4 inch max aluminum vs 3/8 with a spool gun.

you could dig further but just those three specs and the 120 option seem well worth the slightly higher cost. i assume specs on the new inverter models to be similar.

 

[1966chev]

I did a ton of research before I bought my Miller 211. I love it! It runs rings around the chinese Mig that I had before. I like to be able and run 120 or 240 Volt power. Mine isn't the newest model so I got it last year with the rebate and a free spool gun for $945.

Well worth it. Eastwoods are great deals but quite a few people have problems with them DOA, boards going out, etc.

Hope that this helps.

Eric

 

[JoJoSnap]

Love my Lincoln 140 HD. Was able to do some repairs under my pathfinder


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