To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Recommend me a Multimeter

bbs lm-r

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2011
Messages
172
It may be time to replace my trusty Snap-On EEDM504D multimeter. The knob ball/spring mechanism has wore out the plastic it seems, making it very hard to turn without feeling like it's about to break apart. It looks like it's all contained in the front face/shell so if I could replace that I may get some more life out of it, but it's been in use for about 7yrs now, and may be worth it to get a new one anyway.

For automotive use, I'm currently looking at the Fluke 88V. Solid choice or are there better options around now?
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

plinker

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 28, 2007
Messages
4,285
Location
Northern Wi
I've got a Fluke 88v & 374, most of the time I use the 374 as it has more basic features and can read amps. The 88v is really more meter then I need, looking back a 115 may have been a better choice in some ways. No real complaints on either meter.
 

md21722

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 30, 2015
Messages
1,840
Location
Mt Juliet, TN
It may be time to replace my trusty Snap-On EEDM504D multimeter. The knob ball/spring mechanism has wore out the plastic it seems, making it very hard to turn without feeling like it's about to break apart. It looks like it's all contained in the front face/shell so if I could replace that I may get some more life out of it, but it's been in use for about 7yrs now, and may be worth it to get a new one anyway.

For automotive use, I'm currently looking at the Fluke 88V. Solid choice or are there better options around now?

Have you asked about warranty? Snap On multimeters have a 7 year warranty as far as I know. I use a Fluke 87V or a Vantage Pro.
 

General Geoff

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 12, 2013
Messages
3,866
Location
Allentown, Pennsylvania
The Fluke 88V is probably the gold standard for automotive-oriented DMMs.

The Innova 3340 is damn-good for its low price (around $75 USD), and I've had great experience with all the Innova DMMs I've used over the past 15 years. Definitely the best bang for the buck.
 

f121

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 8, 2018
Messages
2,069
Location
UK
I've been using a Fluke 115 for years, works really nicely and can be used one handed. The only feature that I have missed is duty cycle percentage for testing fuel injector feeds.
 

Tonyuk

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 9, 2017
Messages
1,539
Location
Scotland
I've never spent more than about £100 on a multi-meter. Any decent brand will see you right. My current one was around £80 as a set from Amazon, and its packed with features.

That and the powerprobe set, along with a few others tools and i've never had too much o a problem with electrical diag's.
 

TalonFE

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 2, 2016
Messages
191
Location
New Mexico
INNOVA 3340 Automotive Digital Multimeter....it's no Fluke but a nice piece of kit. Around 75 bones. They make a nice accessories setup with different connectors/probes also.
 

Citation

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 20, 2016
Messages
3,209
Location
Indy
Go on eBay and get a used Matco MD 257. It's a Brymen meter very similar to the BM 319 suggested above. You also might find a Greenlee DM 820a for under $100. Also a Brymen meter.

The Fluke 87V with the 88 test lead set would be my cost is no object suggestion.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Magnum440d100

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 2, 2018
Messages
3,581
Location
Indiana
No complaints from here using a sperry I picked up from Ace a few years back. It does everything I want it to, except for miliamps. I have a fluke for that ;)
 

vaultdweller

Active member
Joined
Mar 18, 2014
Messages
28
Location
Landrum SC
I’ve got a fluke 375 at work. Home is a Klein, can’t remember model number but it came with a thermocouple. It’s not true RMS like fluke, but for basics it’s good and is built like a rock.
 

Citation

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 20, 2016
Messages
3,209
Location
Indy
BTW, a Uni-T UT210e is also a nice meter to have. It's a DC clamp meter so it can measure current through a wire without probing/cutting. Make sure you get the 201e version. Uni-T has a lot of meters that look the same and have the same number but the last letter is critical.
 

Rarified27

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 22, 2010
Messages
763
Location
Between PA and NJ
Another vote for Fluke 115.

I use mine for everything from vehicles to repairing musical instruments with electronics so temperamental you'd swear they need to be medicated.
 

RedneckWelder

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 12, 2013
Messages
5,693
Location
The Ghetto Kingdom of Methlandia
It may be time to replace my trusty Snap-On EEDM504D multimeter. The knob ball/spring mechanism has wore out the plastic it seems, making it very hard to turn without feeling like it's about to break apart. It looks like it's all contained in the front face/shell so if I could replace that I may get some more life out of it, but it's been in use for about 7yrs now, and may be worth it to get a new one anyway.

For automotive use, I'm currently looking at the Fluke 88V. Solid choice or are there better options around now?

The 87 and 88s are great meters. It sounds like you might use one a lot in a professsional capacity. The Flukes are the standard for a reason and I wouldn’t be without mine.
 
Joined
Dec 8, 2018
Messages
28
Location
USA
Fluke 88 is not true RMS but has automotive options. Fluke 87 is true RMS but does not have automotive options.

Neither one is a really solid meter to replace the Snap-on 504, and if you're upgrading to a new one rather than repairing you should opt for a true RMS.
 

LG63

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 7, 2012
Messages
1,003
One feature I wouldn't be without is Auto Hold so you don't have to watch the display for a stable reading. Once you hear the meter beep you can remove probes and view display.

Most lower end meters just have a simple hold function that merely holds the existing display.
 

Mr_B

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 21, 2016
Messages
5,373
Location
Reading
Fluke 88 is not true RMS but has automotive options. Fluke 87 is true RMS but does not have automotive options.

Neither one is a really solid meter to replace the Snap-on 504, and if you're upgrading to a new one rather than repairing you should opt for a true RMS.

Is a reason true rms not on many auto meters as it not a great need when dealing mainly with dc measurements .
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom