Recommend me a new drill chuck. 3/8

[2ndGearRubber]

I've been having issues lately with my 3/8 chuck on my Ingersoll air drill. It's a standard 3 tooth chuck, hand tightening style/keyless.

It's not the strongest drill, and I use it a lot for drilling out slider pin bores on caliper brackets. My bits are all high quality stuff, but if the drill bogs, they slip or loosen up. Anything above 3/8 is reduced shank and seems to make the problem worse. Not super interested in buying a 1/2 chuck drill, so I want to upgrade.


Is slippage a common issue with the keyless chucks? What brands to you guys recomend? Swapping it out is just pulling the reverse thread Phillips inside the chuck right?

 

[dutchgray]

I like Rohm chucks, but keyless chucks do tend to loosen up as you use them, unless really high end machine chucks.
Chuck itself will be threaded on, the left hand screw is to stop it coming loose.

 

[KWtech90]

https://www.ebay.com/p/Jacobs-31050...eyless-Drill-Chuck-3-8-to-24-Mount/2255325696

The jacobs 31050 is pretty much the 3/8 version of what I just put on my milwaukee brushless drill. It's 10 times better than the factory drill chuck and you can really get some torque on a bit.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Rohms look very nice, all metal unlike my plastic IR. How do you guys hold the drill shaft steady while you unscrew it? The main shaft on the drill is round and pliers aren't fitting in there.

Then just measure the thread pitch and order one that fits?

 

[MattT]

How do you guys hold the drill shaft steady while you unscrew it? The main shaft on the drill is round and pliers aren't fitting in there.

What I do is use a hex socket driver and bump it with an impact. Putting a hex key in the chuck and whacking it with a hammer also works.

Then just measure the thread pitch and order one that fits?

Yeah should be 3/8"-24 or 1/2"-20. The left hand screw supplied with the new chuck might not fit your drill so save the old one.

 

[Wamsutta]

Swapping it out is just pulling the reverse thread Phillips inside the chuck right?

What you do is this:

1. Remove that screw that's all the way down inside the chuck.
2. Tighten the chuck around a large L-key.
3. Bang the L-key quickly with a large mallet to spin the chuck off.

 

[WWheeler]

What you do is this:

1. Remove that screw that's all the way down inside the chuck.
2. Tighten the chuck around a large L-key.
3. Bang the L-key quickly with a large mallet to spin the chuck off.

Edit: [Removed bad advice. Don't want to lead anyone astray - After actually watching the vid I think I was wrong. I'm guessing the chucks I've just spun off without removing the screw had a mangled or broken or missing screw similar to the one he did because there was no torx or flat or phillips or whatnot down in there. I also don't remember putting a screw back in. Doh! It worked for years though with the chuck I replaced. ]

Found a vid that shows an example of both:

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/nVYLLDW7ScE" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[dutchgray]

Edit: [Removed bad advice. Don't want to lead anyone astray - After actually watching the vid I think I was wrong. I'm guessing the chucks I've just spun off without removing the screw had a mangled or broken or missing screw similar to the one he did because there was no torx or flat or phillips or whatnot down in there. I also don't remember putting a screw back in. Doh! It worked for years though with the chuck I replaced. ]

Not all screw on chucks hava a retaining screw, if the drill is non reversible it wont need one to stop the chuck undoing itself.

 

[tarbellb]

You will need to find out how its attached, but if its a 1/2" x 20 pitch standard electric type there are lots of good options.

Llambrich , Rohm, Jacob (rebranded Llambrich made in Spain ones only), Glacern, Albrecht,

 

[MattT]

I'm guessing the chucks I've just spun off without removing the screw had a mangled or broken or missing screw similar to the one he did because there was no torx or flat or phillips or whatnot down in there.

I've encountered a couple drills where a previous owner had drilled out the retaining screw. I'm guessing unwittingly with double ended bits.

 

[6PTsocket]

I like Rohm chucks, but keyless chucks do tend to loosen up as you use them, unless really high end machine chucks.
Chuck itself will be threaded on, the left hand screw is to stop it coming loose.

They only time you need a left hand screw is if the drill has reverse. In forward operation the load tightens the drill on the spindle

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[6PTsocket]

3/8 chucks are usually 3/8-24. 1/2" chucks are usually 1/2-20 with the occasional 3/8-24. I think some of the later Milwaukee. cordless are 12mm.

What I do is use a hex socket driver and bump it with an impact. Putting a hex key in the chuck and whacking it with a hammer also works.



Yeah should be 3/8"-24 or 1/2"-20. The left hand screw supplied with the new chuck might not fit your drill so save the old one.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[6PTsocket]

What you do is this:

1. Remove that screw that's all the way down inside the chuck.
2. Tighten the chuck around a large L-key.
3. Bang the L-key quickly with a large mallet to spin the chuck off.

That usually works, but not always. For stubborn cases see plan B, above. Chuck hex bit in chuck and mount the bit on impact wrench.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[6PTsocket]

Edit: [Removed bad advice. Don't want to lead anyone astray - After actually watching the vid I think I was wrong. I'm guessing the chucks I've just spun off without removing the screw had a mangled or broken or missing screw similar to the one he did because there was no torx or flat or phillips or whatnot down in there. I also don't remember putting a screw back in. Doh! It worked for years though with the chuck I replaced. ]

Found a vid that shows an example of both:

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/nVYLLDW7ScE" frameborder="0" allow="autoplay; encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>

That screw is only needed if drill is used in reverse, which tends to unscrew the chuck. Forward drilling tightens the chuck on the spindle.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[Wamsutta]

That usually works, but not always. For stubborn cases see plan B, above. Chuck hex bit in chuck and mount the bit on impact wrench.

That method works very well for my Bosch 3/8 drive corded drill with a keyed Rohm chuck. I thought the information might be helpful.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

So I ordered my Rohm 871038 chuck off amazon, true work of art, obviously high quality.


Problem is, that it doesn't have the screw hole in the center for the lock screw, it's all one piece of metal, which moves veritcally as you tighten the chuck. So I guess I will be returning it.


Anyway to tell what chucks have the lock screw hole? Aside from luck?

 

[2ndGearRubber]

For those who may see this in the future - the required term is "through hole".

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DD7KPPC/?tag=atomicindus08-20


Basically the same chuck I was going to buy, just with the required through hole. Seems that also increases the diameter by 6mm or so.

 

[neophyte]

So I ordered my Rohm 871038 chuck off amazon, true work of art, obviously high quality.


Problem is, that it doesn't have the screw hole in the center for the lock screw, it's all one piece of metal, which moves veritcally as you tighten the chuck. So I guess I will be returning it.


Anyway to tell what chucks have the lock screw hole? Aside from luck?

Rohm manufactures multiple drill chuck lines.
For keyless chucks, the Rohm Extra RV line of chucks have the thru hole for a retaining screw. These chucks are available with an all steel formed sheet sheet steel outside. They Extra RV chucks are made in Germany, although I’ve read that they may be made for Rohm by Metabo.

Metabo sells an almost identicle drill chuck that they call the Futuro Plus. These also have the screw hole.

Bosch rebrands these chucks, as well as some other European tool manufacturers.

The fancier solid machined steel chucks, like the Rohm Supra versions, use a different chuck design that doesn’t allow for the center retaining thru screw.

Yukiwa of Japan, and LFA of France likely manufacture keyless drill chucks that can use a retaining screw, but I’m not sure what the names or model numbers would be.

The older Japanese Yukiwa made Milwaukee keyless drill chucks have a thru hole for a retaining screw.

A few of the Rohm Supra SK type solid steel keyless drill chucks do have a “retaining screw” but the retaining screw locks against the side threads, not thru the center of the chuck. I’m not sure if Rohm sells these in the USA. I’m not sure if a web wearch ever turned up a USA distributor.

The chucks without the retaining screw hole are designed to be fastened to the drill arbor using thread locker, or a taper connection.

 

[MattT]

For those who may see this in the future - the required term is "through hole".

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DD7KPPC/?tag=atomicindus08-20

The usual keyword is reversible. The thru hole and locking screw are required for running in reverse.

Another important term is single sleeve or double sleeve. Single sleeve are for use on drills with a spindle lock. You need the double sleeves to properly tighten the chuck on drills that don't lock the spindle. So yeah the one you've linked above is wrong for your application too.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

The usual keyword is reversible. The thru hole and locking screw are required for running in reverse.

Another important term is single sleeve or double sleeve. Single sleeve are for use on drills with a spindle lock. You need the double sleeves to properly tighten the chuck on drills that don't lock the spindle. So yeah the one you've linked above is wrong for your application too.

Looks like the original chuck is going back on for the time being. THANK YOU for catching that.