you do know fiskars has a lifetime warranty, right? email them a pic of the broken tool and you get a new one in the mail. I've got a number of lopers and other yard tools I picked up cheap with broken handles, snapped edges, busted pivots etc. and they replaced every one. maybe not the best quality but as good as anything else I've used and better than some...
Recommend me a splitting axe
- Thread starter ive
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you do know fiskars has a lifetime warranty, right? email them a pic of the broken tool and you get a new one in the mail. I've got a number of lopers and other yard tools I picked up cheap with broken handles, snapped edges, busted pivots etc. and they replaced every one. maybe not the best quality but as good as anything else I've used and better than some...
Jazz1
Well-known member
I'll buy a Fiskars just as soon as my old maul is worn out. Do your splitting when its -30 or colder for easier wood splitting. You'll look forward to those stinking cold days.
Beware....pitching too much wood can cause severe tennis elbow which can last as long as two years...I know!
Beware....pitching too much wood can cause severe tennis elbow which can last as long as two years...I know!
Downwindtracker 2
Well-known member
Those that say buy a good American or German made one, it's a splitting maul, not a finely designed felling axe.
For splitting wood you have:
-the all purpose hardware store axe, neither good at felling or splitting
-the splitting axe, Grasfors Bruk makes a jewel of one, Fiskars do as well, Maybe Garant does as well
- splitting mauls
-wedges and sledge hammer
- log splitter
For splitting wood you have:
-the all purpose hardware store axe, neither good at felling or splitting
-the splitting axe, Grasfors Bruk makes a jewel of one, Fiskars do as well, Maybe Garant does as well
- splitting mauls
-wedges and sledge hammer
- log splitter
Indexmill
Well-known member
Why in Heavens would anybody not use a gas powered hydraulic log splitter?
dr_clyde
Well-known member
Portability, cost, noise, a good workout.
Dibiase77
Well-known member
And to think people complain about 40° weather. Around here below zero is the normal in January and February.
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I agree the Fiskars is a great choice.
As for splitters, I'd highly recommend a kinetic log splitter versus a hydraulic. I can't overstate how much more efficient/fast they are.
I've had a DR rapid fire kinetic for 6 years now, roughly 10 cord per year. With normal maintenance it's been great for me.
If I were to do it again I'd spend the extra money and get a Supersplit. My good friend has one and they are incredibly well built machines.
I have a basic hydraulic splitter too that my dad gave me...I pull it out once in a while to split the REAL big logs...because the hydraulic can be stood up vertical so I can roll the big ones I can't lift over to it. Before I had that though I'd just knock the huge ones into 2-4 pieces then split those chunks on the DR.
I'd definitely recommend a kinetic splitter.
BarryWells
Well-known member
You're in Canukia. Get a real saw ( Husqvarna) and cut it all to length. Then check with a local saw shop and hire a dude with a splitter to come over a couple hours. Them mountain boys glue together some badass splitters.
Downwindtracker 2
Well-known member
They get their parts from Princess Auto.
sgf13
Well-known member
I have split with single and double bladed axes as well as a splitting maul and a wedge. I have also owned a Huskee gas powered log splitter for about fifteen years that was bought at Tractor Supply. I got it before I owned a tractor so I didn't consider a PTO model. I still use it a few times a year. I have never regretted owning it. In my area hardwoods are mostly varieties of oaks that have very twisted grain. You could use any maul or wedge on those logs and you'd collapse before you'd ever split it. As was already mentioned, variables come into play, but if you are going to burn a couple of cords a year and you don't have a lot of extra time the splitter will return what you spent on it in energy savings. This is what I have
https://pin.it/tejlih3b2oodpi
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dutchgray
Well-known member
Fiskars X27 or a hydraulic splitter driven from a diesel power pack or a tractor is what I use. The hydraulic splitter is not really faster on easy splitting wood but you can do 3 hours splitting with out getting worn out. The Fiskars works great, survives miss hits, which will happen if you haven't done alot of splitting, on difficult wood the hydraulic is the way to do it.
I also dont get all the short handle maul comments, all the ones I have ever used were the same length as the X27 and a couple were longer, but they are heavy and tiring.
I also dont get all the short handle maul comments, all the ones I have ever used were the same length as the X27 and a couple were longer, but they are heavy and tiring.
rick carpenter
Well-known member
My standard operating procedure!
KDoug
Well-known member
I didn't see anybody mention Council Tool yet. I was looking for a maul last year and ended up getting this:
https://www.baileysonline.com/counc...0-lbs-with-36-hickory-handle-pr60m-pr60m.html
It's built fairly well for $35, Made in the USA and cheap enough that if you prefer a splitting axe, your not out that much money. Check out some of the other stuff they make too, I believe everything they make is made here.
https://www.baileysonline.com/counc...0-lbs-with-36-hickory-handle-pr60m-pr60m.html
It's built fairly well for $35, Made in the USA and cheap enough that if you prefer a splitting axe, your not out that much money. Check out some of the other stuff they make too, I believe everything they make is made here.
AngryBeaver
Well-known member
I disagree 100%. I've ran less than one tank of fuel through through my splitter since 2012.
the intimidator
Well-known member
To reiterate the fishers is a splitting machine makes my time spent splitting wood more enjoyable!! I have a bunch of cheaper axes and mauls. I split ten bush cord a year and use my hydrolic splitter on about two cords that's twisted or stringy. But I'm faster with my fishers then the hydrolic splitter is
dr_clyde
Well-known member
Most wood splits easier frozen or green, in my experience.
It dries, handles and stacks easier when split as well, so in the interest of doing less work, it is typically easiest to just split it after felling.
DaveInPhilly
Active member
Another vote for Fiskars.
I also heat my home with a wood stove and, according to Amazon, my Fiskars has been going strong since October 8, 2012. I love that thing. I have a wedge and a sledge that I use for particularly stubborn rounds, but my guess is 80% of the wood that goes through my stove was split with the Fiskars.
I also heat my home with a wood stove and, according to Amazon, my Fiskars has been going strong since October 8, 2012. I love that thing. I have a wedge and a sledge that I use for particularly stubborn rounds, but my guess is 80% of the wood that goes through my stove was split with the Fiskars.
bas157
Well-known member
I'd recommend the Fiskars as well. If you like mauls, Fiskars also has a maul. I have both but prefer the X27
This model isn't the right one to cut big trees. However, I recently saw a list with the best splitting axe at the moment. If you want to buy a new one or upgrade your collection, you can find something for sure. On top of that, don't forget, if you have one ax, that's not enough. It's better to have more models that don't cost that much but can help you in multiple situations, and just one model costs hundreds of dollars. No one is interested in how much you paid for one ax that you barely use.
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uratool
Well-known member
Fiskars X27 here....split below freezing and things are so much easier, have access to gas-powered splitters but enjoy the workout.
I miss the workout, bought a coal/wood furnace several years ago and wouldn't burn wood again even if the wood was free.
First off...I don't heat with wood. I have a firepit outside that I use occasionally throughout the year. So lets just say about 1 cord per year (oak and pine mainly).
I picked up the X27 a couple years ago and love it. The 8# splitting maul I've used since I was a teenager just sits in the corner of the shop now...
I picked up the X27 a couple years ago and love it. The 8# splitting maul I've used since I was a teenager just sits in the corner of the shop now...
TalonFE
Well-known member
Over at HD they have this unit: Model# HDSMAXE-8-HUSKY. A maul/sledge rig that's very effective when you alter your swing a bit and let it do its thing. Good aim and technique usually means a one-and-done whack. Inexpensive and super-durable. Its not Fiskars, its just a big dumb piece of forged steel with a nice handle, but it gets it done.
four.cycle
Well-known member
Well, there certainly are no shortage of opinions here.
My mother had our house remodeled and had a fireplace added when I was in high school. Coincidentally, Santa Claus brought me a brand new shiny red maul, wedge, and hammer that year!
I've cut a fair amount of wood - we had a cabin out in the woods and I cut wood for friends for years.
I've tried a few options - not the "Fiskars" model which has been repeatedly mentioned - but others which attempted to "improve" on a faultless design:
I do not use tools with fiberglass handles.
The hammer is an 8-pounder. The mauls are 6-pounders.
As TheOldWizard1 noted, you want to keep the top end of your wedge cleaned up. I neglected to do so and a couple summers ago sent a piece of steel flying about 60 feet through the air into the next-door-neighbor's yard. I don't use that wedge on the left much any more after that incident.
A $2.00 roll of "athletic tape" (available pretty much anywhere) wrapped around the handle helps to keep the tool from flying off into the weeds.
Unfortunately, the combination of digging post holes, splitting wood, and doing trail work has done quite a number on both rotator cuffs, so it's work I try to avoid doing now.
YMMV
My mother had our house remodeled and had a fireplace added when I was in high school. Coincidentally, Santa Claus brought me a brand new shiny red maul, wedge, and hammer that year!
I've cut a fair amount of wood - we had a cabin out in the woods and I cut wood for friends for years.
I've tried a few options - not the "Fiskars" model which has been repeatedly mentioned - but others which attempted to "improve" on a faultless design:
I do not use tools with fiberglass handles.
The hammer is an 8-pounder. The mauls are 6-pounders.
As TheOldWizard1 noted, you want to keep the top end of your wedge cleaned up. I neglected to do so and a couple summers ago sent a piece of steel flying about 60 feet through the air into the next-door-neighbor's yard. I don't use that wedge on the left much any more after that incident.
A $2.00 roll of "athletic tape" (available pretty much anywhere) wrapped around the handle helps to keep the tool from flying off into the weeds.
Unfortunately, the combination of digging post holes, splitting wood, and doing trail work has done quite a number on both rotator cuffs, so it's work I try to avoid doing now.
YMMV
turnthewrench 2.0
Well-known member
four.cycle
Well-known member
It might be worth mentioning that the angle at which the block of wood is struck with the tool makes the difference between "easy" and "difficult". Find a guy who's cut a lot of wood and have them give you a "how to".
Already mentioned: axes are for cutting trees down, or removing branches. Too narrow for splitting large rounds.
Already mentioned: axes are for cutting trees down, or removing branches. Too narrow for splitting large rounds.
catalytic
Well-known member
Up in Ontario where we heat with wood, we have tried everything. My favorite, by far, is the Gransfors Bruks splitting maul. It's expensive and loved by people who collect axes. But, the curved concave shape of the blade really does work. Maybe someone makes a similar one for less than $200. It feels like a lot less work than a "normal" splitting maul.
The other thing: make yourself a nice setup where the logs stand at the right height and you have a decent place to stand and swing. It's the bending over 500x to stack splits and pick up new logs onto the splitting stand that really kills you.
The other thing: make yourself a nice setup where the logs stand at the right height and you have a decent place to stand and swing. It's the bending over 500x to stack splits and pick up new logs onto the splitting stand that really kills you.
Been splitting wood since 1964. Used most every tool. In my 70’s now a maul wears on me. I can accomplish more w/ speed and accuracy. Reading the grain is half the job. For the last ten years this is my go to. Being a double bit it is naturally balanced, therefore accurate. The damage to the handle was before I came up w/ the welded angle iron to protect it. Unlike the rubber protectors, if you overshoot a little the angle iron assists w/ the splitting. Very pleased w/ it. Found the head on a farm that I sold, probably over 60 yrs old.
4xdog
Well-known member
One of our forumites in the Netherlands tells me he got a Fiskars maul for his mostly-wooded property, partly on its top ratings in European comparison tests. He's put a lot of wood under its edge so far from a couple of big storms through his area, and he speaks very highly of it.
So add that to the many voices in this thread endorsing the Fiskars.
...And unlike most Fiskars products in the the US, which have China as COO, the axes are made in Finland (like a Fiskars should be!
)
So add that to the many voices in this thread endorsing the Fiskars.
...And unlike most Fiskars products in the the US, which have China as COO, the axes are made in Finland (like a Fiskars should be!
)