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Recommend me a start/stop switch

Zeke

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I picked up a good ol' cast iron CM table saw and it has a toggle switch on the motor. Wrong end for me. It's a 1 HP motor min so I need a 20 amp min switch. This would work:

stock-photo-start-stop-switch-on-a-power-tool-2153932.jpg
 
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rockwithjason

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hard to tell without some tag data. the configuration would work but we need to match the motor hp to the switch. you could do some searching around with the key word "manual motor starter" and see what pops up
 

scw1991

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On all the vintage woodworking machinery I restored, I used a Square D 2510FG1 switch with thermal overload heaters just to be on the safe side as none of those vintage motors had thermal overload protection built into them.

The 2510 switch has a nice snap to it when you flip the switch.

BTW, a 1HP motor on 115v only pulls about 13-14 amps max.

http://www.wolffbros.com/catalog/Documents\QO_2510FG1.pdf
 
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lilredex

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It will work, I have one of them on my saw, jointer, etc.

Just be aware that they do not fit a regular box, if you are planned on mounting it on one......it is a special one (larger).
 
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Z

Zeke

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It will work, I have one of them on my saw, jointer, etc.

Just be aware that they do not fit a regular box, if you are planned on mounting it on one......it is a special one (larger).

Really?
I got it because Amazon said,

"Rated for 2 horsepower motors; 110-Volt; Up to 35-Amp
Also rated for 3 horsepower motors; 220-Volt; Up to 20-Amp
Fits basic electrical boxes
Start button can be locked out of service."

Oh well, their return policy is as easy as 1, 2.
 

scw1991

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I usually purchase electrical switches from sites like Ebay as most are NOS and dirt cheap compared to paying MSRP.
 
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GirchyGirchy

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Really?
I got it because Amazon said,

"Rated for 2 horsepower motors; 110-Volt; Up to 35-Amp
Also rated for 3 horsepower motors; 220-Volt; Up to 20-Amp
Fits basic electrical boxes
Start button can be locked out of service."

Oh well, their return policy is as easy as 1, 2.

They lie. I tried one and it didn't fit a normal box, plus it felt kind of cheesy. I found these instead. Look around on eBay or Etsy.


DSC_9257 by GirchyGirchy, on Flickr
 

lilredex

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They fit a basic electrical box alright, just not the one we are used to, it measures 3 9/16" across the mounting ears. I had an electrician friend get me mine. Only ID is "347V", probably no good to anyone as I am guessing they are Canadian made, as they also have the CSA logo stamped inside. The quality of my switches is OK, BTW.

 

skruft

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May 9, 2011
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With most of my tools I have installed magnetic starters, so that if the power fails (which it does in my area) the tool will not start again unless I push the switch. If you don't need that, the above are all good ideas.
 
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Z

Zeke

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Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
This very subject got beat up just back in July.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=254015

Charles
Well, it wasn't beat up that much but thanks for the link. I admit I did not do a search because I thought the word switch was too common.

On that thread Norcal didn't think much of the switch I bought. I wull only say this, it's not all that flimsy, it does not fit a box well as stated and I don't use my stationary power tools like one would in a working shop. Once a week or so turning the switch on maybe 20 times on a project. And, as I said, I'm sure the thing is plenty good for any of my 1/3 to 1/2 HP motors on various other machines.

I'll look for a better switch on CL or something.
 
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