Recommendation for EMT Conduit Cutter

[Jlarson]

If you used the right tool to cut the tube all that one needs is pliers to ream it, I bought the Klein conduit cutter & realized wasted my money.

I only have one cause an Ideal rep was at the SH one day and was giving them out free.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

The replies here on how to cut EMT really break down in to two categories... which are entirely different.

Someone that is working for a EC or IS the EC ....has to adhere to a production rate while installing the EMT, in order to make a profit. The DIY'er can work with EMT however works the best for them, as there no production rates or time constraints for them to worry about. JMO

Yes, but I cannot figure out how pulling the right tool (a reamer such as we illustrated earlier) out of your tool belt and giving it a quick once around is slower than taking the grippy surface of bare channellock pliers, or the tips of some other pliers, and cleaning up the end of the conduit.

Charles

 

[Norcal]

Yes, but I cannot figure out how pulling the right tool (a reamer such as we illustrated earlier) out of your tool belt and giving it a quick once around is slower than taking the grippy surface of bare channellock pliers, or the tips of some other pliers, and cleaning up the end of the conduit.

Charles

The only thing I really see as the difference is, one less tool in the tool belt but I like the Klein reamer.

 

[tfi racing]

Wow! When I worked Electrical Construction 24 years ago, we just used hacksaws and 420 Channellocks with un-insulated handles to ream it.

Holy ****!You would think some of these guys were doing brain surgery or fitting tubing in a nuclear power plant!It's just stupid EMT-who really needs to give a **** about how square the cut is or how perfectly a slight burr is surgically removed?Cut the crappy piece of Chinese tube with whatever ****** off-shore tool is handy,run your pliers around it,jam it into the mis-shaped turd of a Korean fitting that doesn't quite fit into the sloppy hole of that no-name box that is bent by simply looking at it,then pull some nylon wrapped conductor that can't be stripped with any tool made by robots or men into it all.Way too much thought that could be way better used for much more important things such as making fun of you guys way too late at night..

 

[MTW]

Holy ****!You would think some of these guys were doing brain surgery or fitting tubing in a nuclear power plant!It's just stupid EMT-who really needs to give a **** about how square the cut is or how perfectly a slight burr is surgically removed?Cut the crappy piece of Chinese tube with whatever ****** off-shore tool is handy,run your pliers around it,jam it into the mis-shaped turd of a Korean fitting that doesn't quite fit into the sloppy hole of that no-name box that is bent by simply looking at it,then pull some nylon wrapped conductor that can't be stripped with any tool made by robots or men into it all.Way too much thought that could be way better used for much more important things such as making fun of you guys way too late at night..

Sounds like a Hack-master to me, poor materials, poor workmanship, poor attitude.

MTW Ω

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Holy ****!You would think some of these guys were doing brain surgery or fitting tubing in a nuclear power plant!It's just stupid EMT-who really needs to give a **** about how square the cut is or how perfectly a slight burr is surgically removed?Cut the crappy piece of Chinese tube with whatever ****** off-shore tool is handy,run your pliers around it,jam it into the mis-shaped turd of a Korean fitting that doesn't quite fit into the sloppy hole of that no-name box that is bent by simply looking at it,then pull some nylon wrapped conductor that can't be stripped with any tool made by robots or men into it all.Way too much thought that could be way better used for much more important things such as making fun of you guys way too late at night..

Unlike u, i take pride in my work.

And i buy USA made materials and tools when available which is quite often...

 

[SALIV8]

Tubing cutters leave a nasty indent, and wrench handles, linesman faces, etc. leave burs behind.

I take my finger and check each end of the emt before I make my connections. Even the manufactured end. If it doesn't catch my skin and is clean, smooth, and square then it's good to go imo. This requires a special debur tool and a clean cut.

Some of these replies are just silly.

 

[My Old Tools]

I use the tubing cutter with good results. Thanks for the tip on snapping it off instead of cutting through. It saves me a minute or two of reaming.

 

[Slowgsr]

Tubing cutters leave a nasty indent, and wrench handles, linesman faces, etc. leave burs behind.

I take my finger and check each end of the emt before I make my connections. Even the manufactured end. If it doesn't catch my skin and is clean, smooth, and square then it's good to go imo. This requires a special debur tool and a clean cut.

Some of these replies are just silly.

I agree. The suggestions are not being given by pros.

 

[swaterbenny]

Union Commercial/ Industrial Electrician
We use this to cut...

And this to ream...

 

[Crazyjake8493]

I usually use a hacksaw. Get a good high-tension hacksaw, not a cheap flimsy one that lets the blade twist. Let the saw do the work. And use a blade for thin metal, with a higher TPI count. I use Tekton hacksaws with Lennox blades, can't remember the exact blades.

Tubing cutters work pretty well though, and like was previously said, it is best to score most of the way through it, and then snap the pipe at the score mark. If you cut all the way through with the tubing cutter it tends to flare in. Good to have a reamer too, like the ones pictured. I have the Klein one with the hex bit that goes into a drill or multi-screwdriver. I also like the ones that slip over the shaft of a square shaft screwdriver and tighten with a set screw.

 

[stewed baker]

Wow! When I worked Electrical Construction 24 years ago, we just used hacksaws and 420 Channellocks with un-insulated handles to ream it.

What he said !
IBEW Local 413.
From 1976 to 2005.
Open the jaws, slip the end of the handles in and ream, swipe the outside with the jaws. Quick and clean.
Less tools needed to carry in your pouch, fewer moves, the job is done quickly and in a workmanship manner.
ALWAYS check factory ends for burrs.
With care and planning a DIYer can do a job to be proud of.
For one job like the OP plans you don't need any specialty tools

 

[600SL]

If you used the right tool to cut the tube all that one needs is pliers to ream it, I bought the Klein conduit cutter & realized wasted my money.

Second that Klein conduit cutter *****. I didn't like the debur tool either. Seemed to really only debur the outside of the pipe. The inside is the part that chaffs insulation.

 

[hh76]

Other than trying portabands when someone else had one on a job site, I really only use a hack saw or sawzall. It's a pretty simple task to cut small emt, why buy any special tool for it?

I carry a Klein reemer, but have used my linemans at different times. Really just what you're comfortable with or used to.

 

[MTW]

I thought I would take the time to post a couple of photos to show the results of using a quality tubing cutter to cut conduit. And the results that can be obtained in minimal time, manually with no batteries, with a single tool.

This is my old school Ridgid #205 cutter, earlier I misspoke and called it a 305.

If you look at it, it's 100% raw aluminum and steel, not a speck of the original gray paint left on it anywhere. Hand polished from more than 30 years of use cutting EMT conduit, PVC pipe, and copper tubing. There are special wheels for cutting stainless steel tubing and plastic. The stock one it comes with, is only good for copper and aluminum, not at all suitable for EMT tubing. The stainless tubing wheel is the one to use for steel EMT, one of these special wheels will cut conduit daily for years, if it's not abused. In the bottom of the knob is a storage spot for a spare wheel, there I store the wheel for plastic pipe, it's thinner and larger to reach through the depth of schedule 40 PVC.

The next photo shows the built in reamer. I learned long ago to properly ream steel tubing the reamer cutter must be sharpened. The way it comes from Ridgid is formed for soft tubing and doesn't work very well on steel that way. I field sharpen with a mill file when required to keep an edge, usually lasts for years when used properly and not abused. In 30 years of cutting steel, that reamer blade as been replaced once, free of charge by an authorized dealer, as the tool has a lifetime warranty. The cutting wheels and mounting pin are wearable parts and not covered under warranty, and I stock spares of these because I need the cutter daily and cant hassle with obtaining parts when needed.

And lastly the results produced on some 3/4 EMT. The bottom EMT is a full cut through, with the associated sharp internal ridge that is formed. This is what people usually think of when using the tubing cutter. The middle EMT is reamed with a quick swipe of the sharpened reaming blade. It takes a little technique to use the reamer properly, you need to use it like a knife and cut the burr off in one swipe. Apprentices seem to try and jam it in the pipe and rub the burrs off in a wiping motion. That's when the reaming cutter needs resharpening, once you get the technique down the blade sharpen lasts for years. The top EMT is the example of score half way through and snap off the piece. It leaves no burr, and is absolutely smooth with a small radius and saves the time of requiring a reaming. Snapping off is easily accomplished when the tube is long enough. Trimming off short sections requires a cut through and a quick ream. The Greenlee and Klien cutter wheels have a depth stop built into the blade, which scores to the proper depth and will not cut through. With the stainless steel rated wheel I use, you have to stop the cut yourself at the correct depth, for the snap off. With a little practice it becomes second nature on where to stop and snap. One more benefit of this model is it will cut EMT up to 2" and is not limited to 1" and down like the other models from Klien and Greenlee.

My 205 is an old model and I prefer it over the newer ones. The design has changed several times over the years. I have newer ones, but the oldie is the one that resides in my field box, it just fits my hand better. And you need good hand control when cutting steel with a sharp blade, otherwise you can put a good gash in yourself if not careful with your grip. I see that the newer models don't even use the 205 number anymore, too many changes I guess. The new number is 33055. Here's a link for the current model from Zoro.
http://www.zoro.com/ridgid-tubing-cutter-copper-brass-aluminum-33055/i/G1955441/?utm_source=google_shopping&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Google_Shopping_Feed&gclid=CODikaPbtscCFQuQaQodRUQIqg&gclsrc=aw.ds

Here's an old timer on ebay for $12+ shipping if you want to try one, but you need to get the stainless rated blade for it. Model # E-4546 or Cat # 33190

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-Ridgid-Tubing-Cutter-No-205-1-4-2-3-8-OD-/111746644615

MTW Ω

 

[SALIV8]

I can see the sharp indents from here. they can damage the insulation.

Compare those ends to a hacksaw and a proper emt reamer, not a pipe reamer that you used designed for copper.