Recommendation for interior finish and insulation.

[Road_Glide_Warrior72]

Just got my 20x28 pole barn built with 10 foot side walls. Concrete goes in next week. Looking at doing 2x4’s on the outside of the posts horizontally at 24” OC and then OSB for walls with metal liner ceiling. Trying to figure best insulation though. I live in Ohio so I’m thinking minimum r19 in the walls and r30 fiberglass blown in for ceiling. I have the lowes house wrap on as well. My plan was to go with the fiberglass blankets but they are only sold in 8 foot rolls and my posts are 10 foot OC so that may not be the best option. Leaning towards faced batts ran vertically behind the interior horizontal girts. What do you guys think? I’ll be heating with a wood pellet stove my brother gave me. It’s built for over 2000 square feet so it should have no problem heating my small space for a few days on the lowest setting.

 

[Road_Glide_Warrior72]

After looking in here I may just do traditional stud walls at 24” OC for the fact that it would be easier to hang the batts up. Any input would be great. Thanks!

 

[billconner]

You can buy wider fiberglass batts, up to 72" in theory. I think interior wall should drive your insulation choice.

 

[Road_Glide_Warrior72]

You can buy wider fiberglass batts, up to 72" in theory. I think interior wall should drive your insulation choice.

I haven’t been able to find much other than your standard 16 and 24” batts. I would love to do the horizontal framing as it would be easier and a little cheaper. Although framing the walls won’t be too bad. It’s not a huge pole barn and I have the time.

 

[billconner]

I have seen it and I find it online but honestly don't know if it's feasible to purchase or not. Just seems like there must be an easier and less expensive way than building stud walls and 24" batts.

I prefer cellulose for it's ability to stop air movement and radiant energy transfer, and it's ability to absorb moisture and dry out - dense packed in walls and loose overhead. That does mean creating cavities - stud bays - in walls to dense pack. Everyone has their own experiences.

 

[Road_Glide_Warrior72]

I haven't looked into cellulose. I wonder what the cost difference is between that and fiberglass?

 

[billconner]

I think generally less but walls really need to be dense packed and the limit of that seems to be bays no more than 24" wide and 10 maybe 12 inches deep. I don't know about wet spray but would guess that means hiring someone with the gear. I think fg batts in wall and cellulose blown on ceiling might be most efficient and economical direction. Just wish you could minimize the stick framing for cost reasons.

 

[Road_Glide_Warrior72]

Same here. Running the numbers though, it doesn’t seem like I will need that much more lumber for studded walls. Now if I was going to go 16” OC then yes, but since I was planning on going 24” OC horizontal with 10 foot side walls, it ends up being about the same for a sill plate and 24” OC between posts that are 10’ OC with a standard stud frame. More work maybe but cost wise I think it will be close. Is there anyway to hang standard 24” fiberglass rolls vertically behind horizontal studs? That would be my big question. If there is, then the horizontals would be way easier and faster.

 

[78SC4X4]

I would just run horizontal (or vertical) 2x6 between the posts 24" OC and use R21 batt.

 

[Road_Glide_Warrior72]

I would just run horizontal (or vertical) 2x6 between the posts 24" OC and use R21 batt.

So you ran book shelf girts. I have contemplated this as well. It may end up being a little more pricy for the 2x6 vs 2x4 but maybe not that much. Would make installation of batts super easy I can see. Did you toe nail them into the posts as well as the blocking?

 

[racecougar]

Bookshelf/commercial girts here, too. I was able to do all of my wall insulation in a day, as the batts just plugged right into the cavities.

 

[78SC4X4]

Did you toe nail them into the posts as well as the blocking?

I did both. My posts are 8" or 10" deep so I needed the extra blocking for the sheeting.

 

[Firebrick43]

8' wide batts are normally available from regular lumber yards(not big box) Also and insulation supply house will be able to get it.

What a waste of wood and all the gaps if you do it with 24" batts.

 

[Road_Glide_Warrior72]

8' wide batts are normally available from regular lumber yards(not big box) Also and insulation supply house will be able to get it.

What a waste of wood and all the gaps if you do it with 24" batts.

That is a good point. I’ll check with my local lumber yard. They have been better on prices for framing lumber and offer free delivery so maybe they are the best go to.

 

[Augus7us]

I have a 30x40 in Ohio. I built vertical stud walls on 24” centers and used batts.

I didn’t do horizontal because the electric boxes wouldn’t work and it was easier to stand up the walls. I also used r19 batts but 2x4 walls.

 

[Firebrick43]

I have a 30x40 in Ohio. I built vertical stud walls on 24” centers and used batts.

I didn’t do horizontal because the electric boxes wouldn’t work and it was easier to stand up the walls. I also used r19 batts but 2x4 walls.

Yes, they will work on horizontal girts. Why is this misinformation so prevalent? So many coming up with excuses just to do what is known to them. There is no framing easier than placing horzontal girts on the face of pole barn poles. Just make a couple of spacers to temporarily attach to the pole, set your girt on them, and screw it to the pole




Buy a raco 8235, which is a stout box for a shop. Extra deep to for good space.



Then you buy a mud ring to extend it out past the tin or wall covering. They are available in multiple depths or single/double gang.


They even make crappy pvc electrical boxes that will work on horizontal girts.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I'd find some "seconds" 1 1/2" polyiso rigid and put it between the exterior wall girts first. Then I would frame up stud walls between the posts with 2x6 to get the best bang for the buck insulation.

Just remember that when you heat/cool that building, you're getting a return on the insulation investment you made. The more you put in now, the more it will save you in the long run.

 

[Road_Glide_Warrior72]

8' wide batts are normally available from regular lumber yards(not big box) Also and insulation supply house will be able to get it.

What a waste of wood and all the gaps if you do it with 24" batts.

Local yard has R19 vinyl faced insulation blankets at $0.93 per sq ft. With the money I would save in lumber for framing the walls, this looks like the easiest and cheapest option with the least amount of thermal breaks.

 

[Augus7us]

Yes, they will work on horizontal girts. Why is this misinformation so prevalent? So many coming up with excuses just to do what is known to them. There is no framing easier than placing horzontal girts on the face of pole barn poles. Just make a couple of spacers to temporarily attach to the pole, set your girt on them, and screw it to the pole




Buy a raco 8235, which is a stout box for a shop. Extra deep to for good space.



Then you buy a mud ring to extend it out past the tin or wall covering. They are available in multiple depths or single/double gang.


They even make crappy pvc electrical boxes that will work on horizontal girts.

This isn't misinformation, I never stated which electrical boxes...

For me the electrical boxes I had would not work with horizontal girts.

 

[Firebrick43]

This isn't misinformation, I never stated which electrical boxes...

For me the electrical boxes I had would not work with horizontal girts.

If only you had written "I had on hand" in your post. We can't read your mind, only what you type.