Recommendations for a sand blaster & compressor

[xladkalkd]

I haven't owned or ever used an air compressor. Most of my tools are either hand or power tools.

However I decided in order to do some work I'm going to need a sand blaster to clean up a couple of vehicles. Where a wire brush, wire wheel, grinder, navel jelly aren't going to be enough to perform the jobs at hand.

I'm not really certain what to look for when shopping for a sand blaster and compressor.

My current location in a RV park have a cargo trailer and small storage shed, but no real workshop to use and store heavier equipment.

Work performed would be e.g. to remove rusted suspension parts such as coil and leaf springs, other suspension parts, sand blast then re-paint with probably an anti-rust paint such as Chassis Saver (which would require some sort of external hard coating).

Other parts on and off the vehicle would include engine and body parts, sub-frame, rocker panels, bumpers and connection points, wheels, drivetrain, towing equipment, etc.

 

[cvairwerks]

Don't think the park management will be tolerant of your desires. If the part isn't small enough to fit in an average size blast cabinet, you will need a pressure pot and a large compressor. Couple that with the fact that you will be blowing sand and other materials far away from where you are working and creating a lot of noise. You would be much better off finding some shop space first, or shell out the cash to have the blasting and painting done on the large stuff.

 

[lakeroadster]

The only reason I am posting all of the following is to add emphasis to what cvairwerks just posted.

Sandblasters are air hogs.. they us a lot of air.. a lot. Did I mention they use a lot of air?

I have a 20 gallon pressurized blasting pot (like this) I got from Northern Tool and a 60 gallon upright Craftsman Professional 220V compressor.

That set-up is about $800.

The compressor can't keep up... not even close. It's usable, but by no means ideal.

Typically I use nickle slag as the abrasive (it's green) and blast parts in the back yard (1 acre lot) on a big blue tarp. The blasting media gets / goes everywhere..

Re-use the abrasive 2 times. Shovel it up and filter it through a funnel that has a piece of screen door screen across the top of the funnel.

You'll need a respirator, not a dust mask... a respirator, a full face shield and clothing that covers all exposed skin and some really good ear protection.

Last thing I blasted was at our previous home, a tailgate and steps for a '65 C10 bed. Took maybe 2 hours to do the blasting, total of 3-1/2 hours to get everything out, do the work, then clean everything up.

 

[cvairwerks]

BTW...last time I did some major blasting, I rented a 200# pot and a 185 SCFM diesel compressor. 45 bags of Oklahoma white were recycled thru the pot several times.

 

[bob15]

Your best bet would be to find a sand blasting shop and have them do the work for you. You need a big compressor and a large cabinet. If done outside, expect to get the blast media everywhere and anywhere. Even places you think are sealed, will see blasting media.

 

[CKS1955]

The other issue I had when I tried this 20 years ago was making sure to remove the moisture from the compressed air. Because they use so much air, it also makes a lot of moisture which if not addressed can clump the media.

Jay

 

[67King]

That would be a job to farm out. Preferably off site. As others have stated, that's no small task, and the investment would be HYOOOGE!

Another point. I have not tried this, but Martin Senour has a new rost proofing paint that may be a good one for you, and it does NOT have to be top coated. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/MSRQTRP100

 

[lakeroadster]

BTW...last time I did some major blasting, I rented a 200# pot and a 185 SCFM diesel compressor. 45 bags of Oklahoma white were recycled thru the pot several times.

I did the same thing when we blasted my Model A back in the mid 1990's. Really worked out well. Only issue we had was moisture clogging the nozzle, as CKS1955 mentioned above... humidity was about 99.99% that day.

 

[Major Ramifications]

POR-15 sounds like a great solution for you.

 

[bob15]

BTW...last time I did some major blasting, I rented a 200# pot and a 185 SCFM diesel compressor. 45 bags of Oklahoma white were recycled thru the pot several times.

I did the same thing when we blasted my Model A back in the mid 1990's. Really worked out well. Only issue we had was moisture clogging the nozzle, as CKS1955 mentioned above... humidity was about 99.99% that day.

One issue with renting....he lives in an RV park. I'm not so sure the owner and other tenants in the park would appreciate a diesel compressor running, let alone the blasting.

 

[sberry]

I would quit before 2 hrs.

 

[lakeroadster]

One issue with renting....he lives in an RV park. I'm not so sure the owner and other tenants in the park would appreciate a diesel compressor running, let alone the blasting.

That's why we were focusing his resources toward outsourcing..

.. You would be much better off finding some shop space first, or shell out the cash to have the blasting and painting done on the large stuff.

The only reason I am posting all of the following is to add emphasis to what cvairwerks just posted.

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I would quit before 2 hrs.

Smart ***

 

[bob15]

That's why we were focusing his resources toward outsourcing..)

I just read those 2 post differently and thought you were giving him ideas on how to do it himself without buying the equipment (rent, not buy). No harm, no foul; as my first post also suggested sending the parts to a blasting shop as well.

 

[lakeroadster]

I just read those 2 post differently and thought you were giving him ideas on how to do it himself without buying the equipment (rent, not buy). No harm, no foul; as my first post also suggested sending the parts to a blasting shop as well.

 

[dkroth]

Here you go. Package deal and free shipping in much of the country.

It will do everything you list except leaf springs - those are too long.

Abrasive media will be a few dollars more.

Can't help you with the facilities.

 

[xladkalkd]

Don't think the park management will be tolerant of your desires. If the part isn't small enough to fit in an average size blast cabinet, you will need a pressure pot and a large compressor. Couple that with the fact that you will be blowing sand and other materials far away from where you are working and creating a lot of noise. You would be much better off finding some shop space first, or shell out the cash to have the blasting and painting done on the large stuff.

Yes you're probably right about the park management not being favorable to sand blasting. I've already paid 10's of thousands in rent here for over 12 years and have been cautious when working on my Jeep and RV. Usually any work performed on my RV and Jeep (toad) are done in the off-season when there are no or few guests in the park. Were located next to the Pacific Ocean with wetlands and woods between us and the beach. Down approx. a mile many homes have ended up in the Ocean, being unforgiving when it comes to erosion, much of the property down a mile or so has disappeared increasing the beachfront a mile or so father north.

I think minimally I would need to remove the rear springs and at least repaint over the rust if unable to first sand blast.

Sand blasting is nothing new to me on an industrial level. Years ago when younger I worked in the shipyards as a fitter next to sand blasters. However I haven't really ever owned or operated any sand blasting equipment per se. I do remember one time I sand blasted some heavy metal stairs, that were part of a porch. What I did was hook up a sandblast attachment to my gas pressure washer. It did an ok job removing rust however it also made a mess of leftover sand. Most of time when repainting metal I use a grinder or wire wheel.

You're right leftover sand makes a big mess not recommended doing on e.g. over a lawn, perhaps over plain dirt or gravel.

Perhaps I'll forgo sandblasting, scrape off as much of the rust as possible and apply Chassis Saver directly on the rust.

I thought perhaps there might be a lighter version or mode of a sand blaster that would have less impact on the environment.

The closest sand blast shop would be over 35 miles from my location. Perhaps I'll stop by and see what their rates are for a few suspensions parts. I've used sand blast shops in the past for different types jobs such as for gas and propane tanks, etc.

 

[cvairwerks]

Something you might find when checking on prices, is that it's simply cheaper to replace the parts than rehab them. Depending on what year and model you are working on, new springs can be had for under 100$ a side.

 

[xladkalkd]

Something you might find when checking on prices, is that it's simply cheaper to replace the parts than rehab them. Depending on what year and model you are working on, new springs can be had for under 100$ a side.

The suspension installed around 8 years ago is an OME suspension kit for a Jeep. Provides approx. 1.5 to 2.5 inch lift. OME suspension kits for my Jeep run currently around ~$900.00. 8 years ago cost was around $750.00 to $800.00.

The rear springs are two-stage with an overleaf spring. Individual (OME twin - tube) shocks run around $110.00 / each. The rear shock bell housing have completely rusted through, the primary tubes appear the rust has started to weaken the shocks. I'm not certain if all four shocks require replacement.

There are other options besides sand blasting e.g. an oxygen / acetylene or oxygen / propane torch could be used to burn off excessive rust.

Various type of solutions have worked to neutralize rust such as e.g. navel jelly, vinegar, spray cans of rust neutralizer found in auto parts and hardware stores, etc. basically neutralize rust.

The paints used to paint over rusted and previously rusted metal basically blocks any air from ever reaching the metal again. Rust and corrosion usually is only able to occur and spread when oxygen is present.

Paints such as Chassis Saver, Miracle Paint, Por-15, etc. all these paint basically do is coat the metal well enough to prevent air from reaching the metal.

I've used Miracle paint in the past and if applied correctly does prohibit rust from occurring again. Even without an extra top coat I found Miracle paint works well enough by itself producing a very tough top-coat

However if the coated metal becomes cut deep enough to allow air to reach the metal the cut area needs to be re-coated again.

 

[cvairwerks]

What year and model Jeep and how much lift do you want to retain?

 

[sberry]

That's why we were focusing his resources toward outsourcing..




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Smart ***

Yes. I will have to qualify it with the fact I have extensive experience with it. Supervised 1000's of hrs of blast paint work. My little home unit holds 250# of sand. There is a plant near here, can buy pallet boxes at a time, by the ton.

 

[xladkalkd]

What year and model Jeep and how much lift do you want to retain?

It's a later model XJ. The XJ originally derived from a need to replace larger Jeeps with a compact SUV.

Don't really want to sink any more $$$ into lifting, ~1.5 - ~2.5" is about enough for me. Stock height is a little too low as I was constantly replacing the mufflers while off-road.

There are a pair of OME Extra Leafs - D22XL sitting in storage, which would provide another inch of lift.

I suppose I could just let it continue to rust, however one of the rear spring brackets is rusted out and needs replacing. I thought while replacing, the rest of the suspension could be removed and repainted with a better paint more resistant to corrosion, salt water, sand, etc.

Possibly also paint the brakes, and other areas prone to rust.