Recommendations for Torx Bit?

[Briancapecoral]

I need a good T55 to install cylinder head bolts. Used a cheap autopart store brand to remove with an impact wrench, but the torque spec is pretty high and want something that will make it through all 10 bolts when I install.
I've seen comments about the gold SO, but they say removal in the product description, and are the same price as the SO standard. Are they better for installation also? Is there another brand that is as good or better?
Head is going to machine shop so I have time to order and ship.

 

[shawhite]

Assuming your will torque by hand the snapon gold t55 bit should work fine.

 

[lukedwag]

Yes the SO removal bits are top notch

 

[Stuart in MN]

Another good quality brand is Bondhus: http://www.bondhus.com/bondhus_products/tool_categories/socket_bits/star.html

 

[EOC_Jason]

Wera ?

 

[Farmall450]

I have the Carlyle impact set, they seem to be very nice.

 

[dutchgray]

Any reasonable brand should be fine, the cheap one that got it apart would probably do as well.

 

[kbs2244]

Replace the bolts with hex heads.

 

[bdelmar2]

I picked up a set of the Carlyle from Napa about a month or so ago, regular non impact.

I use torx bits a fair amount rebuilding transmissions and general mechanical work, one thing I've learned is they all break with extended use, don't care who you buy them from.

That's why I got he Napa set, they are literally 50' from our shop door, so I can get one replaced almost instantly. I have to wait for the Snap on truck - and remember to swap them out.

In our shop right now we have 3 sets of Snap on, all with the t35 and t40's broken.


Anyway, the Carlyle set has held up fine, so if I were you I would just get one of those - fairly reasonable pricing, easy to get, and decent quality. Doubt you need an impact type, unless this is a diesel. You can also just get the single one you need no problem.

Handy tip, after initial torque I like to make a mark on one side of all the bolts - say all to the exhaust side - before doing the tty (torque to yield) degree step or steps (depending on spec). That way I can visually see how far the bolt has turned, and if I get interrupted I can tell exactly when I left off.


kbs2244 - Unlikely its possible to use a hex head bolt even if he could find the correct length, pitch, and tensile strength. Generally when you see torx bolts in a head there are there for clearance and are a tight fit already even with the smaller head.

 

[Wamsutta]

Handy tip, after initial torque I like to make a mark on one side of all the bolts - say all to the exhaust side - before doing the tty (torque to yield) degree step or steps (depending on spec). That way I can visually see how far the bolt has turned, and if I get interrupted I can tell exactly when I left off.

What do you use for measuring the angle rotation?

 

[Briancapecoral]

Thanks for the feedback, I think I'll order the SO, only about $10 for the bit. Wamsutta, there are gauges that are fairly inexpensive, just a dial with an arm that measures the degrees as you turn.

 

[JimRB]

I make the Sharpie pen mark at 6 o'clock and turn to 9 o'clock if it says 1/4 turn. Not hyper critical if it turns to 9:30. Nothing has blown up yet with that method.

 

[duncman]

I am a big fan of Grey Pneumatic, this set should do the trick for you
http://www.gpsocket.com/products/product.phtml/1234T/

 

[bdelmar2]

What do you use for measuring the angle rotation?

I just eyeball it based on the breaker bar or ratchet.

A long handled flex head 1/2 ratchet is really handy for getting around obstructions. A breaker bar works but is harder to get to clear.

As mentioned above, if you are fairly close it will be fine - or has for me thus far.

I always make the movements in one sweep when doing tty steps.

Starting torque is higher than moving torque so its possible to snap a bolt if you stop in the middle and then restart.

 

[Tonyuk]

At work we get given Mac branded bits to use since VW's are full of torx (and spline), more torx than hex head now i would say. They fit well and last.

Other brands that have worked well for me are Whia, wera, dewalt and facom.

They will eventually wear out unfortunately, the most important thing to using torx is to check for correct fit before actually turning the bit. If the bit feels "loose" then its badly sized and likely will strip out the head of the bolt, especially if rusted out.

Definitely don't just replace them with with a hex head bolt. If its bolts that are TTY then the torque spec will be based on the bolts being made of the same steel as the current bolts with the same temper etc.. Not all bolts will stretch the same even if tightened to the same torque and you could possibly snap the head.

 

[chipdog4]

I have Snap On and SK Torx and Torx Plus bits.
I've used the T60P to around 170 pound feet and still haven't broken one.
I can use an SK T50P about twice as many times as a Snap On T50P before it will break. The torque we use on those can be up to 140 pound feet.

 

[tonyciambrone]

Replace the bolts with hex heads.

*Replace the bolts with studs and hex nuts*

But yeah since this is a torque to yield scenario probably just replace with OEM hardware.

 

[catron44]

Another good quality brand is Bondhus: http://www.bondhus.com/bondhus_products/tool_categories/socket_bits/star.html

+1, I needed it to do something on my wrangler and broke the lisle/cman/greatneck cheapies i had, but the bondhus held up.

I'm sure the snap on is fine too, but i have broken their T-55 in the past on my truck.

 

[Gmonkee]

If you have money to burn and a Wurth dealer anywhere near those are good too.

Better than the average and I have used a variety extensively at one shop.

I use the 10mm hex shaft type with a dedicated ratchet mostly now and not one broken in a long time.

However. Wurth has them rebranded for them by a maker that I never knew whom it was. They could well be Bondhus by appearances.

 

[48548]

Just buy a bunch and have spares...