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Recommendations on 220V Receptacles

automobiliben

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Greenville, SC
I didn't want to derail the other thread on 110V receptacles...

What is everyone using in their shop for 220V outlets, particularily 20A but I wouldn't mind hearing about 30A well.

In my last shop I had Twist Lock 620R style receps, but they are 3Xs the price of a "regular" receps.

Here is what I had:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_197480-334-L620R-L_0__?productId=1056947&Ntt=cooper+receptacle

This is what I bought so far:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_65748-334-1876W-SP-L_0__?productId=1191899&Ntt=cooper+receptacle

Any pros or cons?

This is for my 1 man hobby woodworking shop, and I will probably be installing 12 receps, 3 per circuit. With only 1 ever being used at a time. The compressor and dust collector will get their own dedicated circuit.
 
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PRH44

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Indiana
The second receptacle configuration nema 6-20R (straight blade) is more common in a residential setting. The majority of 220 volt equipment will be equipped with a 6-20P to match the 6-20R.
the same for the the 30 amp variety.
The locking or "twist lock" L6-20R devices do a better job of retaining especially in a ceiling or overhead mounting position. Locking devices are more expensive and you would more often than not need to replace the "plug" (male cord cap) on equipment you acquire.

Unless you install calls for hardier attachment retention there really is no need to spend the extra cash. They do look cool and function very nicely.
 

PRH44

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Here is a link to a nema configuration table
http://www.inda-gro.com/pdf/nema.pdf

This is the short version chart for 220 volt and 220/120 volt
nemachart.jpg
 
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automobiliben

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Greenville, SC
The second receptacle configuration nema 6-20R (straight blade) is more common in a residential setting. The majority of 220 volt equipment will be equipped with a 6-20P to match the 6-20R.
the same for the the 30 amp variety.
The locking or "twist lock" L6-20R devices do a better job of retaining especially in a ceiling or overhead mounting position. Locking devices are more expensive and you would more often than not need to replace the "plug" (male cord cap) on equipment you acquire.

Unless you install calls for hardier attachment retention there really is no need to spend the extra cash. They do look cool and function very nicely.

Thanks! I do plan on putting some in the ceiling for drops to a handsaw and table saw, was planning on using the twist lock. Appears that I am thinking about this correctly!

Thanks for the replies guys!
 

ddawg16

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I personally prefer the 3 pole/4 wire plugs.....you have your neut in case the device needs it....

I have a 240Vac recpt in my garage....but nothing to plug into it yet....though, that might change real quick if my NOISY Husky oilless compressor keeps taking so long to get to pres....
 
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Speedy Petey

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NY State
I personally prefer the 3 pole/4 wire plugs.....you have your neut in case the device needs it....

I have a 240Vac recpt in my garage....but nothing to plug into it yet....though, that might change real quick if my NOISY Husky oilless compressor keeps taking so long to get to pres....
I prefer using whatever the device needs. It's not like you are going to put a 4-wire plug on something just because you have a 4-wire receptacle. Put in the receptacle you need for the device served.
Run the neutral wire, but you don't have to use it.

It is extremely rare that any 240v power tool is going to need a neutral (ie: 120/240v circuit).
 

Charles (in GA)

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Install 6-20R receptacles, since both 6-15P (plugs) and 6-20P (plugs) will plug into the 6-20R receptacles. Waste of money to use the 6-15 receptacles. Just be sure and wire with 12 gauge wire.

Charles
 

Alchymist

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Central PA
Install 6-20R receptacles, since both 6-15P (plugs) and 6-20P (plugs) will plug into the 6-20R receptacles. Waste of money to use the 6-15 receptacles. Just be sure and wire with 12 gauge wire.

Charles

True if you are buying new, not so much if you already have a box full of 6-15 plugs/receptacles. Standardization is the key! Don't have any machines that pull more than 15 @240, and anything large will get it's own dedicated circuit anyway. :D
 
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automobiliben

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I run all circuits with 12g wire, so that has already been taken into account.

The dust collector is a 5Hp 19.5A job, I read a lengthy write up about it needing to be on a dedicated 30A circuit (with 10g of course) but from the manual, it comes shipped with a 620p plug. So it appears the manufacture is OK with it being on a 20A circuit.

Guess I will find out when it arrives, I am still a couple weeks out which is fine by me...

(The article saying it needed a 30A circuit went into discussion about parts of the NEC where it talks about up sizing circuits for things that will be used less and be on the in rush start up often.)
 
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eriksalo

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Nov 29, 2007
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Colorado
I think the twist lock are the way to go.

In my shop, I first went with the much less expensive "dryer" style plugs. However, I wasn't happy with them. They were hard to remove and I was always worried I would touch both hot terminals when removing them.

I eventually replaced them all with twist locks. Paid twice.
 
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