Recommendations on a Farm Tractor

[Leaky88]

Hi,

Hopefully, I have the correct Forum/Section for this.

Wanting to buy a used Farm Tractor, and looking for recommendations. I live on 5 acres but retirement home is 24. There is always a tree taken out by a wind storm, ground that needs rolled, something needing moved/lifted, snow removal etc.

I've made a list of everything I want one to do.
Main concern is availability of parts, how long parts are made after production, support, documentation.

Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.
Leaky

 

[joe_padavano]

I went through this over 20 years ago when we bought our farm. Bottom line is that you can't go wrong with John Deere, but you'll pay for it. I got a 1979 JD 850, which is a rebadged Yanmar. This was in 1999 and it had about 500 hours on it then. It's got 2700 hours on it now and it's still going strong. I was able to find a used JD loader for it and plumbed the hydraulics myself. It's only rated at 23 HP, but we've used it to put up two barns, a garage, my shop building, and my car storage building. As an example of parts availability, when a farm helper overheated it and cracked the head a few years ago, I was able to walk into the local JD dealership and order a brand new assembled head - for what was then a 35 year old tractor. You'll pay dearly (deerely?) for parts, but that's the price of availability.

As a general rule of thumb, these compact utility tractors are in the highest demand and thus priced more than larger "farm" tractors. Consider what you plan to do with it and where you need to go with it before committing to a larger (though possibly less expensive) tractor. I run liquid ballast in mine and it's only 2WD but I haven't had a problem.

Another thing to be aware of is that anything newer than 1980s vintage probably has additional electronic nanny BS on it. I've seen newer tractors with lockouts that disengage the PTO in reverse, for example. Sorry, but that's no substitute for common sense and awareness of your surroundings. I'd also never buy a hydro tractor, but that's my preference. Most newer tractors in the compact utility class are geared towards faux farmers who have just bought a large parcel and have no clue as to how to operate equipment like this, so they have lots of "safety" features that compromise utility. Your call on that.

I've also accumulated a wide variety of equipment for it over the years, primarily through equipment auctions. I run a bushhog, finish mower, post hole auger, post driver, cement mixer, sprayer, beam pole, blade, and log splitter.

 

[DFB]

Many people with a mixed acreage of woods, gravel driveways, lawn and fields to maintain generally seek a CUT (compact utility tractor) And the 30-45hp range is pretty common as is a hydrostatic type of transmission these days. Though sync reverser is pretty cool too. Shuttle/coller shifts to me are least desirable (always clutching) but I use them all from 20 to 95 HP

Most also have a FWD assist

And having a hydraulic operated bucket loader attachment is an indispensable accessory for me with a small tractor used for estate maintenance. Though I have known many farmers never owned one and used all 3 point attachments for lifting and digging and material moving

Tire tread style is another consideration, many CUTS today seem have the construction type bar tread as a standard fitment though AG and turf style are still common too.

Older AG style farm tractors 2wd and diff lock are plenty useful still just know your limits.

Buckets do help you get unstuck

 

[SRU1436]

My dad has a kubota, don’t remember the model, but it’s a compact one. It has a bucket, it’s 4 wheel drive and as multiple attachments, I thinks it’s a 2015ish. I know the information is not much help but we have used if for everything under the sun. We always comment on how we couldn’t do 3/4 of the things we do without it. It’s indispensable. I’ve never used a tractor until he bought it, I love it and enjoy using it when I got to his house to help.

 

[Bent Handle]

My dad has a bx Kubota, it does a lot of work. Not sure which model, it’s one of the bigger ones. He also has a heated cab and snow blower for it which are pretty slick.

 

[jonesg]

I live next to a farmer, he has 7 big tractors, all old massey ferguson.
He never pays much for anything, they look like 40-50 yrs old.
I've helped him work on them, very simple to wrench on.
Says they run all day on $5 diesel.
Parts are readily available.
He has a snowblower attachment, does my driveway after big storms in 2 passes.
I wouldn't want newer machines without the factory service software on a laptop.

 

[Bretny]

Well said about newer ones being very complex.
Get a pree emissions pre computer machine. There very simple and easy to repair. As for what brand to get as long as parts are available it dosnt really matter.

Avoid all chinese made machines! Japanese make a quality machine. I do own a 1957 ford that I cant get a reverse gear for. I also own a 1990 kubota that it took 6 weeks to get a starter gear for...but it was available.

 

[drtyler]

Make sure it has a front end loader. You'll never know how you got by without it once you start using it.

The factory installed ones are usually better done than the ones installed later.

Good thing about a used JD is that it holds its value very well. If you intend to sell or upgrade in a few years, you probably won't be out of much, if anything.

The 5103 should be priced decently now that its a few years old.

 

[MattN03]

We have 16 acres and my 2011 Kubota B3200 has been a great little tractor. I bought it used with 78 hours and it now has 450+ hours. It came with a backhoe, and then I've bought a bush hog, tiller, clamp on pallet forks (light duty lifting only), box blade, and landscape rake. I thought I'd sell it once we completed our shop and house, but it's so handy, it's not going anywhere! Mine is pre-Tier4 emissions, so that is a definite plus if you can find a clean, low hour tractor.

 

[EMD710]

There are advantages and disadvantages to each brand. Depending on your exact requirements, one could be far better than the other. However, overall, for newer machines the dealer is important almost moreso than the make.

I prefer Deere but are they going to be the most expensive option normally.

If you are comfortable with used machines there is a dealer not far from you in Michigan called Good Works Tractors. He is on youtube and primarily handles Deere and Kubota, he will ship anywhere.

 

[MattN03]

If you are comfortable with used machines there is a dealer not far from you in Michigan called Good Works Tractors. He is on youtube and primarily handles Deere and Kubota, he will ship anywhere.

Good Works Tractors has a lot of good info on his YouTube channel. Tractor Time with Tim is another great source of info wanting to learn more about tractors and available implements/usages.

 

[Leaky88]

All.

Appreciate the Feedback greatly!

 

[EMD710]

All.

Appreciate the Feedback greatly!

You are most welcome, I'm relatively new here but hope to add a couple cents worth of knowledge from time to time.

I prefer Deere for three main reasons:

1. Dealer network--our local dealer network is huge, covering Washington and Oregon. Over 30 stores.
2. Parts support and availability--Deere stocks parts for machines up to 50 years old in their regional distribution warehouses and for machines older than that in their Illinois warehouses. I have a 1944 Bo Lindeman crawler and Deere still has new parts available for it.
3. Resale value--subject to area and machine model but up here in the northwest, Deeres hold their value extremely well. Kubota does as well.

 

[Copymutt]

TU on a Deere. Sold mine this spring w/ a 12 acre property. Having a backhoe attachment opens a “hole” new world. Trenching, planting trees, self extracting, ditch cleaning, Fab a thick plate to attach to the bucket teeth and you can empty a trailer of soil and aggregate when the buckets too wide, easy to uncover a septic tank & lift the covers, lay culverts, lever boulders to get a stone boat under them.
Sure do miss it. I welded a pipe receiver on the back of the bucket for a trussed gin pole. Was able to pull the docks and set power poles. Did I mention I miss it?

 

[larry_g]

You are most welcome, I'm relatively new here but hope to add a couple cents worth of knowledge from time to time.

I prefer Deere for three main reasons:

1. Dealer network--our local dealer network is huge, covering Washington and Oregon. Over 30 stores.
2. Parts support and availability--Deere stocks parts for machines up to 50 years old in their regional distribution warehouses and for machines older than that in their Illinois warehouses. I have a 1944 Bo Lindeman crawler and Deere still has new parts available for it.
3. Resale value--subject to area and machine model but up here in the northwest, Deeres hold their value extremely well. Kubota does as well.

I bought a new 5055e from Pape' a couple of years back and within a couple of weeks it started acting strange, not shifting right, so they picked it up and hauled it back. After more than a week I finally called for an update. Word was that the seat switch was flaky and only two were in north America. One in Canada and one on the east coast. It was another week before it returned. So forgive me for not supporting you parts support claim.

As these company's build tractors all over the world, mines from India, the spare part situation is becoming a problem. A lot of good tractors sitting because of parts NLA.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[BLUE72CAMARO]

Another consideration would be the older Ford/New Holland Shibaura tractors. My dad has a Ford 1710 with a loader that we have really put thru its paces and it is amazing what the little thing can do for no more HP than it has. When I bought my place 10 years ago I went on the search for a tractor of my own as I was getting tired of hauling his back and forth to my place. I found a Ford 1920 with a loader on it for pretty reasonable money and couldnt be happier. Its not to big to be cumbersome and hard to manuever and has quite a bit more pulling power for doing food plots and stuff like that on our property.

 

[Packard V8]

A friend got a great deal on a twenty-year-old JD which had been used only for digging graves. Once it was fully depreciated on paper, the owner sold it cheap and bought a new one. After using the new model, he called my friend and asked to buy his old one back and would pay 50% more than the selling price.

jack vines

 

[DEXTERBBQ]

The one thing I would add is to research what dealers are close to you. That might be the brand you should buy.

We have a 38hp Massey that's six years old and no problems despite the abuse it receives on our small farm.

The closest dealer carries Massey Ferguson. There location was a huge advantage. They easily can pick up my tractor if something goes wrong and its out of my wheel house to fix on my own. They carry a ton of parts so getting something quick is painless.

The main reason I went with a Massey Ferguson is that my grandfather was an engineer at Massey Ferguson when they had a plant in Southeast Michigan (very long time ago). When he retired and bought a farm he had a Massey. I grew up using that tractor helping on the farm.

The other reason to buy the Massey is the dealer had interest free financing (granted it was only a year but still hard to beat). I know you said you were looking for used but when dealers have financing plans like the one I took advantage of its hard to not buy new. You might want to inquire as to what types of financing options are out there at the dealers near you. Even if financing is 1 percent or in that neighborhood it's worth looking at.

 

[Gummi Bear]

We have a Kioti tractor, it’s been a good machine

30hp, 4 wd, FEL plus a mower, box blade and hay spike

It’s 96 or 97 model, and has only had one issue (needed a wheel bearing replaced a few years ago). I do all the maintenance.

They’re Korean made, very similar to the Kubota tractor. I wouldn’t hesitate to buy another. The new Bobcat tractor is a rebadged Kioti


I’ve run lots of different tractors over the years, and in the compact tractor category there’s a lot of good ones.

Like mentioned above, find a dealer you like so parts are readily available.


I order most of my stuff online, and from my local dealer and get it shipped. A surprising amount of the maintenance goodies are available at your local auto part store (fluids, filters, belts, hoses, etc)



I went to the woods because I wished to live deliberately...

Henry David Thoreau

 

[seber]

Anything made in the USA will be good. Japanese tractors made by Kubota or Yanmar as long as it is not gray market. Stay away from anything made in Europe as parts will be difficult. Whatever you do, stay well away from Mahindra or the Mahindra rebadged by John Deere. Synchromesh is by far the most useful as hydro will wear out your leg doing field work. Collar shift is just plain awful for anything other than field work. Make sure it has remote hydraulics so you can add a loader.
My favorite ever was a 1070 John Deere built in Japan by Yanmar. It just made me smile every time I climbed up on it. In four wheel drive I swear it would climb straight up a wall while pulling a twelve bottom plow.

 

[woody 73]

I don't know beans about tractors...(get it beans) farm related . But I do know this and sounding like a broken record (chainsaw posts) Don't worry about make so much but find the best dealer in your town that will pull down their paints and say give it to me and more more and never complain day or night. Their service will be number #1 day and night for you.

If you can find that dealer buy what ever tractor they are selling. Trust me on this one finding that dealer is very important.

 

[Bretny]

If you can turn a wrench and are buying a machine without a warranty dealer network or how close a dealer is is not important. The internet makes many many parts available without the machine or you leaving home.

I put a starter and starter gear along with a clutch and front U joint in my 30yr old kubota last winter. All parts where cheaper and got to me quicker by ordering online.

 

[XJSuperman]

Is this a joke? You want recommendations for a tractor after giving us almost no information? Im not sure I can explain the scope of the tractor world in a single post, but lets just say good reliable simple and still useful tractors date back to the 1940s, and you budget will depend on how new you want to go.

Do you have a budget?
Are you going to share your list of tractor activities you want to accomplish besides the usual moving trees and scraping a driveway?
What is the layout of your land? (flat, hills, wet, dry, wooded or open, etc)
Are you physically able to steer an older tractor or do you need modern power steering?
Im guessing a front loader is desired, but do you want to lift entire trees or just smaller sections? (Im working my way towards the horsepower and lifting capacity questions)
Are you planning on doing all the maintenance yourself or are you planning on loading it up and taking it to a dealer? Followup: what kind of size are you currently equipped to haul?
Do you need to drive on the road at all?
Do you desire a modern cab with heat and air conditioning or would you like to enjoy the dust, snow, and winds of nature?

Ive got a dozen more questions but this will seriously help narrow things down.

 

[WittHay]

The dealer support is more important in other countrys than the US. No one really does the newer style computer ordering of parts. (buying online) up here. More of phoning the tractor wreckers and figuring out what the local parts stores have that fit on your tractor. Plus the dealer parts system is good 1 to 3 day wait on parts from anywhere in North America

John Deere and Kubota is standard for small acreage owners. Anything else from Massey-Ferguson to Mahindra is buyer research. How old is it, what dealer is in the area for non online parts or service/repair information

 

[BukitCase]

"I've made a list of everything I want one to do" - yet we've still not SEEN that list - so I'm with XJSuperman on this.

So for now, until we know more I'm recommending a Steiger Bearcat with a 10 bottom rollover plow, a Cat 988 loader, a D11 cat and a 60 ton excavator (and maybe a 60" zero turn if there's any grass left after the others get used) ... Steve

Hey, this IS GJ ain't it??!?

 

[theoldwizard1]

4wd, hydrostatic transmission, plenty of hydraulics up front and in the rear.

Dealer network is key. Green paint cost $$$ (many of the smaller JD are made by Yanmar and painted green).

 

[Iowafox]

I am a Massey fan as that is all we have on the farm. My uncle has a old Allis Chalmers WD40 that I love as well. There old simple and just work. I personally if I was to get one would get something old not new. I agree what everyone says find what dealer is around and go that route. Stuff will break and having one close is better then waiting weeks/months for a shipment cross country.
Plus one thing about older units is you can fix them your self and you can almost do what ever or even make what ever attachment for them if it's something simple.
If I was to go new which I probably never will I would go with New Holland, Massey, Kabota or Yanmar as they all seem good and have a good supply chain for them.

 

[Prospecter]

I live on 35 acres. Have owned a JD 790 with FEL for a long time. 790 has a Yanmar engine. Deere had been good on parts, and its a pretty simple tractor. Would have been happy with a Kubota, too, but they were pricier. 30 HP would be plenty for 24 acres.

I like 4wd and power steering with the loader. If you go older, I'd stay away from the trip buckets. Definitely get ROPS. I've rolled a tractor. Figure that was my freebie. Don't want to push my luck!

Diesel is very reliable, but needs a heater in cold (below 30) weather. I had a Pasquali. Lombardini engines are good, but hard to get parts. Also had a Ford 9n. Good gas tractor. If I was buying an older gas tractor, I'd get an 8n. I believe it is half of a V8 block? It's a slightly newer 9n. Plenty of those old Fords around, and lots of parts available. (Check it out on Google.)

Farmall Cubs have a big following, but are lower powered, higher center of gravity, no 3 pt hitch, and are pricier. No after market ROPS that I am aware of.

 

[BD1]

Avoid the Farmall cubs unless you buy PTO implements for them. A typical pull type mower will not work on their PTO spline.
Cub's rotations is reversed than standard.
Front 4 wheel drive is a must with a loader.
Even with rear implement it's hard to backup from a pile of dirt with bucket full.


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[Danglerb]

Maybe not practical, but I want an old Porsche diesel tractor.

 

[Doug1]

How about the best tractor with a cab around 40HP? Just moving dirt, bush hogging and cutting grass. it would need to have a bucket loader, rear hydraulics for a backhoe, etc. and AC. AC might be more important feature here in the South. At least for me... Only 90 acres of mostly timber and 30 acres of fields.

What are the best sites to locate a used one? I'll likely go with a Kubota with low hours but pre emission works for certain.

 

[BD1]

I have a 60 HP John Deere 2440 open station with loader and rear hydraulic outlets. No cab.
Definitely get one with independent PTO.
That's a must especially with a brush hog.
Check loader specs between a 40 and others .
With me going to a 60 HP, loader capacity increased to 2500 or 3000 pounds and lift height to almost 10'. This will vary, depending on tire sizes.
The larger loader takes a 7' bucket. Handy for me in snow country.
Again all wheel drive is nice. Mine is only two but have 500 pound wheel weights per tire. I did have filled tires buy opted out when I replaced them. That added almost a 1,000 pounds per tire.
Have dealer bring one out to demo.


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[bob15]

I have a 60 John Deere 2440 open station with loader and rear hydraulic outlets. No cab.
Definitely get one with independent PTO.
That's a must especially with a brush hog.
Check loader specs between a 40 and others .
With me going to a 60 HP, loader capacity increased to 2500 or 3000 pounds and lift height to almost 10'. This will vary, depending on tire sizes.
The larger loader takes a 7' bucket. Handy for me in snow country.
Again all wheel drive is nice. Mine is only two but have 500 pound wheel weights per tire. I did have filled tires buy opted out when I replaced them. That added almost a 1,000 pounds per tire.
Have dealer bring one out to demo.


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Deere made the 2440 from 1976-1982.

1960 was the change over from 2 cylinder to the New Generation.

 

[BD1]

Deere made the 2440 from 1976-1982.

1960 was the change over from 2 cylinder to the New Generation.

Mine is 1980 purchased new. Still have it and farmed 20 acres with it.


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[Jason280]

Something orange in the 30-40hp range, with front end loader and 4wd.

 

[ALinCarolina]

We run an organic farm on 24 acres but I had the Kubota before that. Couldn't get along without it.
As far as hydro vs. gears: If you are going to mostly work in the field pulling a mower or plowing for a long time then the regular gear box is better since you don't have to hold your foot on the pedal. If using the loader, forks, grapple, post hole digger, etc. (anything involving much back and forward) then I much prefer the hydro. If you get a front loader (and who wouldn't?) then be sure it is 4 wheel drive. If picking up heavy stuff and the rear wheels become a little unweighted the front will still work.
Be sure to study safety advice of which there is plenty of sources out there.

 

[bob15]

I have a 60 John Deere 2440 open station with loader and rear hydraulic outlets. No cab.
Definitely get one with independent PTO.
That's a must especially with a brush hog.
Check loader specs between a 40 and others .
With me going to a 60 HP, loader capacity increased to 2500 or 3000 pounds and lift height to almost 10'. This will vary, depending on tire sizes.
The larger loader takes a 7' bucket. Handy for me in snow country.
Again all wheel drive is nice. Mine is only two but have 500 pound wheel weights per tire. I did have filled tires buy opted out when I replaced them. That added almost a 1,000 pounds per tire.
Have dealer bring one out to demo.


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Mine is 1980 purchased new. Still have it and farmed 20 acres with it.


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OK. But what is a "60 Deere 2440"? Or do you also have a model 60 Deere (2 cylinder) which would be kinda a cool tractor, though I hate hand clutched tractors. Just curious......

 

[Ralf11]

Mahindra is better than using a bullock

 

[Firebrick43]

How about the best tractor with a cab around 40HP? Just moving dirt, bush hogging and cutting grass. it would need to have a bucket loader, rear hydraulics for a backhoe, etc. and AC. AC might be more important feature here in the South. At least for me... Only 90 acres of mostly timber and 30 acres of fields.

What are the best sites to locate a used one? I'll likely go with a Kubota with low hours but pre emission works for certain.

Your cab requirements are not going to work with the backhoe very well unless you buy a construction type loader backhoe and then is not going to work for PTO work. Good Used pre emission 40hp tractors with cabs are fairly rare

OK. But what is a "60 Deere 2440"? Or do you also have a model 60 Deere (2 cylinder) which would be kinda a cool tractor, though I hate hand clutched tractors. Just curious......

A 2440 is 60 hp. He forgot the HP.



I personally find 4wd sub compacts ungainly. My 67’ 2020 jd can out work, lift and since its well ballasted with ag tires and a diff lock it will go the same places with 2wd.

Due to FWA tractors front axle turning limitations my 2020 has same turning radius as the neighbors 07’ 23hp 2520, twice the Hp and three times the weight all at a third the cost. It did take some time to find one in the condition I desired.

 

[BD1]

OK. But what is a "60 Deere 2440"? Or do you also have a model 60 Deere (2 cylinder) which would be kinda a cool tractor, though I hate hand clutched tractors. Just curious......

Yes, I forgot the "HP" as stated.



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