Recommendations on a Farm Tractor

[RoninB4]

First time tractor owner so my opinion is just an opinion and not always valid. Formerly worked on Ag-Con equipment back when Fiat purchased Allis (nicknamed Fat-Alice in the shop). Worked on a few of the D-8 crawlers and road graders with no power steering. Also been a toolmaker for 35 years and no stranger to multi-ton machinery and work pieces in the multi-ton range. Bought my first house and wanted a tractor, lots of reading/research. Guidelines suggested will be:

1) Budget- this quickly separates the "want" from the reality of "afford"
2) Required duties- Yeah I'd like more HP but how often will I need ALL of it?
3) How will repairs be done?- Bigger tractors mean bigger fasteners 1/2" drive isn't enough a lot of the time. Torque multipliers have been employed and not enjoyed. New/bigger tools may be required as the HP and tractor size increases. Consider this in your budget.
4) Part availability- A Belarus may be a good deal but how about getting parts for it? Grey market tractors don't have dealer support for a reason, even part numbers won't match.
5) Dealer- If you're not going to repair it you better have a good dealer nearby and a trailer to haul it to. House call tech charge accordingly too.
6) What is available- Lots of great bargains too far away with not enough trailer to get it.

Worked on a few Kubota's and liked the build quality, seem to be very popular in this area for durability but I couldn't afford one with 4WD and the attachments I wanted, JD price out of my budget too. I ended up with a Ford 1900 30HP (Shibaura diesel) w/4WD (sloped property) a FEL and a backhoe. It's had some "creative" repairs done I'm working through. There are some videos about buying a used tractor on the net, look them up. Standard attachments don't work on the non-standard 3 point hitch some compact tractors have so look into this. Don't delude yourself into thinking a garden tractor is going to do more than suburban type garden work, a bolt-on bucket has been known to break the frame by over working/overloading it. Good advice from everybody here, I'm still new at being a tractor owner.

 

[bob15]

Yes, I forgot the "HP" as stated.



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

OK, gotcha.

 

[Ton ton]

Some John Deere tractors are made in Europe.

 

[Ton ton]

"I've made a list of everything I want one to do" - yet we've still not SEEN that list - so I'm with XJSuperman on this.

So for now, until we know more I'm recommending a Steiger Bearcat with a 10 bottom rollover plow, a Cat 988 loader, a D11 cat and a 60 ton excavator (and maybe a 60" zero turn if there's any grass left after the others get used) ... Steve

Hey, this IS GJ ain't it??!?

I like this answer.

 

[Doug1]

I answered your questions within your quote.

First time tractor owner so my opinion is just an opinion and not always valid. Formerly worked on Ag-Con equipment back when Fiat purchased Allis (nicknamed Fat-Alice in the shop). Worked on a few of the D-8 crawlers and road graders with no power steering. Also been a toolmaker for 35 years and no stranger to multi-ton machinery and work pieces in the multi-ton range. Bought my first house and wanted a tractor, lots of reading/research. Guidelines suggested will be:

1) Budget- this quickly separates the "want" from the reality of "afford"
I'd like to stay around 20K. My buddy bought a 2009 Kubota with cab, 350 hours, 30 HP and paid 17K. I'd like to go up slightly in size but don't have to.

2) Required duties- Yeah I'd like more HP but how often will I need ALL of it?
The primary thing I want it to be able to do is lift a full bucket of dirt from truckloads without having to work it loose. I've been using a 2019 Massey Ferguson 1926e and a good bit of the time the bucket won't lift so I have to back out slightly and get it that way. Other duties will be limited to leveling, bush hogging and maybe some trenching

3) How will repairs be done?- Bigger tractors mean bigger fasteners 1/2" drive isn't enough a lot of the time. Torque multipliers have been employed and not enjoyed. New/bigger tools may be required as the HP and tractor size increases. Consider this in your budget.
I'll take it in to the shop or fix somethings myself. I have a pretty good setup. I build cars from the ground up for fun so very little I can't do if I have the time. I don't think my car lift is rated for a tractor though. ha!

4) Part availability- A Belarus may be a good deal but how about getting parts for it? Grey market tractors don't have dealer support for a reason, even part numbers won't match.
I'll order most parts online or pickup from a local dealer if it is in stock.


5) Dealer- If you're not going to repair it you better have a good dealer nearby and a trailer to haul it to. House call tech charge accordingly too.
I have a good trailer that came with my buddy's new Massey. 20 footer with electric brakes, etc. Nice trailer. I bought it for deal because he wanted something to pull ALL the implements with his MF.

6) What is available- Lots of great bargains too far away with not enough trailer to get it.
This sort of where I am. I'm looking at Kubota primarily but don't mind paying shipping if the tractor is a good deal. So online works for me if there are some good sites. I'm new to buying tractors so I have the local Kubota dealer looking out for one like they found for my friend. I am trying to do some looking around myself.

Worked on a few Kubota's and liked the build quality, seem to be very popular in this area for durability but I couldn't afford one with 4WD and the attachments I wanted, JD price out of my budget too. I ended up with a Ford 1900 30HP (Shibaura diesel) w/4WD (sloped property) a FEL and a backhoe. It's had some "creative" repairs done I'm working through. There are some videos about buying a used tractor on the net, look them up. Standard attachments don't work on the non-standard 3 point hitch some compact tractors have so look into this. Don't delude yourself into thinking a garden tractor is going to do more than suburban type garden work, a bolt-on bucket has been known to break the frame by over working/overloading it. Good advice from everybody here, I'm still new at being a tractor owner.

 

[Doug1]

Not trying to hijack the thread... What are the best online sites to find a used compact tractor?

I just answered these questions for an earlier post to help give an idea of what I'm looking for besides 30-40HP (even up to 50 but I don't really need all that) with a cab and a bucket....

First time tractor owner so my opinion is just an opinion and not always valid. Formerly worked on Ag-Con equipment back when Fiat purchased Allis (nicknamed Fat-Alice in the shop). Worked on a few of the D-8 crawlers and road graders with no power steering. Also been a toolmaker for 35 years and no stranger to multi-ton machinery and work pieces in the multi-ton range. Bought my first house and wanted a tractor, lots of reading/research. Guidelines suggested will be:

1) Budget- this quickly separates the "want" from the reality of "afford"
I'd like to stay around 20K. My buddy bought a 2009 Kubota with cab, 350 hours, 30 HP and paid 17K. I'd like to go up slightly in size but don't have to.

2) Required duties- Yeah I'd like more HP but how often will I need ALL of it?
The primary thing I want it to be able to do is lift a full bucket of dirt from truckloads without having to work it loose. I've been using a 2019 Massey Ferguson 1926e and a good bit of the time the bucket won't lift so I have to back out slightly and get it that way. Other duties will be limited to leveling, bush hogging and maybe some trenching

3) How will repairs be done?- Bigger tractors mean bigger fasteners 1/2" drive isn't enough a lot of the time. Torque multipliers have been employed and not enjoyed. New/bigger tools may be required as the HP and tractor size increases. Consider this in your budget.
I'll take it in to the shop or fix somethings myself. I have a pretty good setup. I build cars from the ground up for fun so very little I can't do if I have the time. I don't think my car lift is rated for a tractor though. ha!

4) Part availability- A Belarus may be a good deal but how about getting parts for it? Grey market tractors don't have dealer support for a reason, even part numbers won't match.
I'll order most parts online or pickup from a local dealer if it is in stock.


5) Dealer- If you're not going to repair it you better have a good dealer nearby and a trailer to haul it to. House call tech charge accordingly too.
I have a good trailer that came with my buddy's new Massey. 20 footer with electric brakes, etc. Nice trailer. I bought it for deal because he wanted something to pull ALL the implements with his MF.

6) What is available- Lots of great bargains too far away with not enough trailer to get it.
This sort of where I am. I'm looking at Kubota primarily but don't mind paying shipping if the tractor is a good deal. So online works for me if there are some good sites. I'm new to buying tractors so I have the local Kubota dealer looking out for one like they found for my friend. I am trying to do some looking around myself.

Worked on a few Kubota's and liked the build quality, seem to be very popular in this area for durability but I couldn't afford one with 4WD and the attachments I wanted, JD price out of my budget too. I ended up with a Ford 1900 30HP (Shibaura diesel) w/4WD (sloped property) a FEL and a backhoe. It's had some "creative" repairs done I'm working through. There are some videos about buying a used tractor on the net, look them up. Standard attachments don't work on the non-standard 3 point hitch some compact tractors have so look into this. Don't delude yourself into thinking a garden tractor is going to do more than suburban type garden work, a bolt-on bucket has been known to break the frame by over working/overloading it. Good advice from everybody here, I'm still new at being a tractor owner.

 

[bigdav160]

Not trying to hijack the thread... What are the best online sites to find a used compact tractor?

I just answered these questions for an earlier post to help give an idea of what I'm looking for besides 30-40HP (even up to 50 but I don't really need all that) with a cab and a bucket....

Like a car, I would start with the local craigslist and FB marketplace.

I found my 10 year old, low hour (89), garage kept, 32hp Yanmar EX3200 on a local fishing forum.

 

[seber]

Mahindra is better than using a bullock

I wouldn't bet on it.

 

[Ralf11]

Maybe not practical, but I want an old Porsche diesel tractor.

I bet you own a car from them...

 

[RoninB4]

Not trying to hijack the thread... What are the best online sites to find a used compact tractor?

I just answered these questions for an earlier post to help give an idea of what I'm looking for besides 30-40HP (even up to 50 but I don't really need all that) with a cab and a bucket....

-My "questions" were not me asking you but were more for what you'd ask yourself as a guide for shopping. I had/have no idea what you were looking for, what tools you had, or what your skill level was. Working on a compact tractor is a different realm than working on some of the larger equipment choices. Not slighting you or your abilities, just bringing up relevant points that might help on an internet board to someone I know nothing about.

Where did I shop? Craig's List, Facebook Market, and driving around. I needed to stay within 50-75 miles. There are also tractor boards on the internet with Buy/Sell forums. Sounds like you have a lot more options than I did so you should have little trouble locating something you like. Good luck.

 

[Doug1]

-My "questions" were not me asking you but were more for what you'd ask yourself as a guide for shopping. I had/have no idea what you were looking for, what tools you had, or what your skill level was. Working on a compact tractor is a different realm than working on some of the larger equipment choices. Not slighting you or your abilities, just bringing up relevant points that might help on an internet board to someone I know nothing about.

Where did I shop? Craig's List, Facebook Market, and driving around. I needed to stay within 50-75 miles. There are also tractor boards on the internet with Buy/Sell forums. Sounds like you have a lot more options than I did so you should have little trouble locating something you like. Good luck.

Thanks for the info. Since this was not my thread, I'll start one to get some suggestions on good tractor boards to buy and sell. I can go 300-400 miles but I also don't mine paying shipping. The cab part is hard to find on a used compact models.

 

[RoninB4]

Finding a cab on a compact isn't as unusual as it may seem, they're often an option from the factory. Not having one on a used model shouldn't be a show stopper either as many companies offer an after-market kit. Apparently there are many people that fabricate their own as well, do a search for this. Should be a nice project if you have a saw, welder, drill press, and some basic fabricating skills. It can be as un-ugly as you want it to, a CAD program would certainly help with the design stage and a better fitment. I have a program at home and find it very helpful for almost any project I do that has more than 3 parts. There seems to be a lot on the internet if you search for it. Below is a link to a website, similar to this one, that has a lot of information and links to related topics. As for selling/buying that's probably easy too if you search the net. Even your local grocery store or Farmers Co-op has a bulletin board worth checking.

Apologies to the OP if I've hijacked the thread. I'll go sit down now.

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/index.php

 

[finn]

After looking for a used compact with a cab and hst for a year, unsuccessfully, I started looking at new tractors at the two local dealerships, a Deere and a Kioti.

The ergonomics of the new compacts are superb, compared to some of the old obsolete tractors some are recommending.

I ended up with a new Kioti ck4010, a 40 hp tractor with a cab, high capacity loader, hst, air conditioning, mid pto for a front mounted blower.

Emissions controls are a non issue, the dealer is local, and I got more tractor for the money than Deere could offer.

Three years and no issues or regrets.

 

[Leaky88]

I had to go out of town unexpectantly and am just reading all the responses. I appreciate everyone's feedback.

 

[JeepYJ]

Now, JD is moving their production to Mexico. So much for patriotism.

The 5E series are and have been built in India.
Not all production is moving to Mexico.
They are a global company and sell tractors and equipment all over the world.
The 4 series and below are still built in Georgia USA.

 

[finn]

We run an organic farm on 24 acres but I had the Kubota before that. Couldn't get along without it.
As far as hydro vs. gears: If you are going to mostly work in the field pulling a mower or plowing for a long time then the regular gear box is better since you don't have to hold your foot on the pedal. If using the loader, forks, grapple, post hole digger, etc. (anything involving much back and forward) then I much prefer the hydro. If you get a front loader (and who wouldn't?) then be sure it is 4 wheel drive. If picking up heavy stuff and the rear wheels become a little unweighted the front will still work.
Be sure to study safety advice of which there is plenty of sources out there.

This post / thread is four year old, but cruise control is a feature that was standard when I bought my Kioti 4010 SE six or so years ago. I assume it’s universal by now that it’s available either standard or as an option from all manufacturers.

 

[finn]

Your cab requirements are not going to work with the backhoe very well unless you buy a construction type loader backhoe and then is not going to work for PTO work. Good Used pre emission 40hp tractors with cabs are fairly rare




A 2440 is 60 hp. He forgot the HP.



I personally find 4wd sub compacts ungainly. My 67’ 2020 jd can out work, lift and since its well ballasted with ag tires and a diff lock it will go the same places with 2wd.

Due to FWA tractors front axle turning limitations my 2020 has same turning radius as the neighbors 07’ 23hp 2520, twice the Hp and three times the weight all at a third the cost. It did take some time to find one in the condition I desired.

Turning radius isn’t an issue on my Kioti. Newer tractors to a large extent have orbital hydraulic steering gear setups which allow much tighter steering cuts than older tractors with drag link or other like steering configurations.

 

[Firebrick43]

Turning radius isn’t an issue on my Kioti. Newer tractors to a large extent have orbital hydraulic steering gear setups which allow much tighter steering cuts than older tractors with drag link or other like steering configurations.

The steering method has nothing to do with it? There are both very tight turning direct hydraulic steering and drag link systems that can also turn the spindles at almost 85 degrees for very tight steering.

Many wide front tractors could turn so short that the rear inside tire turning circle would be around a foot or two in diameter

The 4x4 FWA compact tractors turning radius is limited by the universal joints at the knuckles of the front axles

 

[finn]

The steering method has nothing to do with it? There are both very tight turning direct hydraulic steering and drag link systems that can also turn the spindles at almost 85 degrees for very tight steering.

Many wide front tractors could turn so short that the rear inside tire turning circle would be around a foot or two in diameter

The 4x4 FWA compact tractors turning radius is limited by the universal joints at the knuckles of the front axles

In any event, the Kioti 4wd turning radius is exceptional compared to what your experience with some unknown make of some unknown vintage front drive assist is.

 

[Firebrick43]

In any event, the Kioti 4wd turning radius is exceptional compared to what your experience with some unknown make of some unknown vintage front drive assist is.

Umm, it was a 07’ 23hp 2520 that I referenced. You even quoted it in your post(#57)???

So how is it unknown exactly?



I couldn't find a CK 4010 inside radius but did find the CK 4020 at 96 inches to the inside rear with wheel braked. Narrow tire width of 54" equals a 300" total turning circle. Its actually more than that as the front corner will be outside the track that the rear wheels travel on a conventional layout tractor but since they don't post it I will use 300"

Take for example a 43 hp 1965 to 1975 John deere 1020. It has 15" longer wheelbase, and still has a 235" total turning circle

Even larger tractor such as the same age 59 hp 2020 with 20" longer wheel base has a 257" total turning circle.

Both use drag links ot the power steering motor, not an orbital steering valve with hydraulic cylinder.

 

[finn]

Umm, it was a 07’ 23hp 2520 that I referenced. You even quoted it in your post(#57)???

So how is it unknown exactly?



I couldn't find a CK 4010 inside radius but did find the CK 4020 at 96 inches to the inside rear with wheel braked. Narrow tire width of 54" equals a 300" total turning circle. Its actually more than that as the front corner will be outside the track that the rear wheels travel on a conventional layout tractor but since they don't post it I will use 300"

Take for example a 43 hp 1965 to 1975 John deere 1020. It has 15" longer wheelbase, and still has a 235" total turning circle

Even larger tractor such as the same age 59 hp 2020 with 20" longer wheel base has a 257" total turning circle.

Pretty sure my grandfather’s Deere model A tractors with a tricycle front could turn on about their own wheelbase by brake locking the inner wheel.

That doesn’t make them a tractor useful for much of anything today, though.

Point being, turning radius of a modern front drive tractor isn’t an issue, at least not with the particular brand I own.

The CUT, with its loader and hst is a favorite with small landowners.

 

[Firebrick43]

Pretty sure my grandfather’s Deere model A tractors with a tricycle front could turn on about their own wheelbase by brake locking the inner wheel.

That doesn’t make them a tractor useful for much of anything today, though.

Probably doesn't, quite different tractors. The tractors I quoted have nothing in common to an model A either Not sure why you have to gaslight trying to infer they are like a two cylinder NF tractor?



A John Deere A has none of the following, and your kioti doesn't have some of them either.


They have fuel saving and responsive closed center hydraulics as opposed to open center on your kioti.

They have draft control three point hitches, your kioti does not.

They have telescoping lower links

The 3 point side leveling link is adjustable from the seat unlike the kioti

They could have quick attach loaders.

Both have factory wide front ends

They have one finger power steering even when stopped

They have suspension seats

They have ROPS available from the factory and is still available

They could have shuttle shift transmissions optioned

They have multiple SCV valves optioned

Both have live or two stage clutches for pto depending on options

They have dual range transmissions

They have diff locks

They have power adjust wheels as option, kioti does not

They have longer wheel base and bigger tires for better ride


So just how are they not useful for modern implements?

Your kioti does have a cab available if your not able to withstand the elements or unwilling to put a heater houser on it, but that is a low uptake option in most locations on compact tractors

Your kioti does have HST available if you cant shift gears and want to take a fuel economy and available HP hit. But it does have a multirange and shuttle shift as well.

 

[Wamsutta]

 

[finn]

I’m not going through your list line by line, but most if not all those items are included. Telescoping lower links, draft control, did locks, suspension seat, etc..

I would guess that upwards of 90% of the tractors sold by my dealer are cab models with heaters and ac. Winters are brutal here. Probably the same percentage are hst, most with front pto and front snow blowers. 100% are loader equipped with quick attach plates.

The Deere dealer is similar.

Not many customers tilling ground here anymore, nor are their many dairy or large beef operations. Mostly forestry and land management, as well as the obligatory snow removal for people who prefer to live on hobby acreage. Most of the new equipment sold is CUT from 25 hp to maybe 65 hp, along with some larger utility tractors.

Not much demand for older farm tractors. They really aren’t suitable for conditions here, although a few older farmers are still clinging on to that lifestyle. It’s not Kansas and there aren’t corporate farms. Corporate timberlands, yes, but that’s entirely different equipment.

 

[Firebrick43]

I’m not going through your list line by line, but most if not all those items are included. Telescoping lower links, draft control, did locks, suspension seat, etc..

I would guess that upwards of 90% of the tractors sold by my dealer are cab models with heaters and ac. Winters are brutal here. Probably the same percentage are hst, most with front pto and front snow blowers. 100% are loader equipped with quick attach plates.

The Deere dealer is similar.

Not many customers tilling ground here anymore, nor are their many dairy or large beef operations. Mostly forestry and land management, as well as the obligatory snow removal for people who prefer to live on hobby acreage. Most of the new equipment sold is CUT from 25 hp to maybe 65 hp, along with some larger utility tractors.

Not much demand for older farm tractors. They really aren’t suitable for conditions here, although a few older farmers are still clinging on to that lifestyle. It’s not Kansas and there aren’t corporate farms. Corporate timberlands, yes, but that’s entirely different equipment.

The list wasn't in reference to your tractor per se but to point out the fallacy of your attempt to gaslight with the Model A comment. All the points, as clearly stated in the post, were completely absent in a Model A, and only a few where notated specifically to point out your tractor lacked them, if I didn't note it your tractor does have them.

Your tractor does not have draft control, you have to step up to the DK series for it.
Kioti owners manual

The UP is a small unique section in weather in the US, and if you need a cab, OK, I get that. I have been dog sledding in the UP during 20 below weather. That doesn't mean everyone needs a cab or an older tractor(with modern features) wont work??? The OP is from Illinois, a whopping 10 miles from here, nothing like the UP in winter.

I am unsure why you keep trying to disqualify 50 years of tractors with completely false statements such as your orbital vs draglink steering?

I never recommend something available with at least live or two stage clutch PTO, power steering, and ROPS that is unfamiliar with tractors. If someone is not mechanically minded or has a fat wallet I do recommend new. But there is no reason to discount more economical solutions available for those that want to search and maintain an older tractor.

 

[Ton ton]

New holland boomers with super steer is an interesting option. Although I don’t really recommend it to be honest. Way too many grease zerks for my comfort.