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Recommendations on caliper piston compression tool

Bmberzins

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Aug 23, 2023
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Finally going to buy the right tool, tired of a piece of wood and a clamp, any decent ones out there that won't break the bank.
Thanks very much.
 
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2ndGearRubber

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I use the Lisle compressors, or vise grip 11r for smaller calipers.

For twist in, I have a pneumatic tool. Previously I used a basic twist in kit from harbor freight.
 

Uofime

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Jan 11, 2021
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Charleston SC
Right now a Honda Accord 6 2004. However, I have several other vehicles that I will need to use it on as well.
I’d agree with 2ndGrear.
Lisle is nice
Check if you need a twist in compressor, typically on the rear and anything with electric park brake and a few other euro things.

As a tip, also get a bleeder bottle with clear line that fits your bleed fittings. Crack the fitting while compressing the pistons, it makes it a lot easier and you DO NOT want the contaminated fluid that was hanging out in the piston back in your brake system.
Also if you’re changing pads you’re probably well past due to flush the fluid anyway and you’re all hooked up to do it. For me I just go pump the brake pedal until the fluid in the bleeder bottle line is clean (after sucking the old fluid out of the reservoir and replacing with new). On all the modern cars I’ve worked on I’ve never had any issue with fluid reversion at the bleeder when pumping the pedal. That means the one person operation is enough. Motorcycles and classic stuff is frequently a different story.
 

engineer2

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Chicago burbs
I mostly work on Hondas and I have one of those fancy caliper piston kits. I end up using a 6" c-clamp for the fronts and the universal piston twister for the rears. The newer Honda EPB rear calipers simply push in. Don't twist them!
 

2ndGearRubber

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Which pneumatic one do you use?

"16 piece pneumatic caliper windback tool" on Amazon. I believe mine is an older Ares model, it's blue. They all look about the same.

IIRC you'll need a windback tool for the rear calipers, fronts just press straight in.
 

JradM

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Alberta
"16 piece pneumatic caliper windback tool" on Amazon. I believe mine is an older Ares model, it's blue. They all look about the same.

IIRC you'll need a windback tool for the rear calipers, fronts just press straight in.
I second this idea. It's not a highly technical piece of equipment and the OP said "that won't break the bank".

I also have an Amazon kit - they all look the same according to the photos. I believe mine is branded "ABN". Odds are it's the same as your Ares kit.

I've probably only used it on a half-dozen different vehicles, but every time I have it worked great. Maybe there's some outlier where you'd need a different tool, but I haven't come across it yet. It might not be equivalent to Proto or Mac, but it's the proper tool and does what it's supposed to.

In contrast, I recently bought an Amazon valve spring compressor kit. Those kits also all look identical - but the one I got was junk. I have to bend it back straight with my arbor press after every use. I don't know if all the kits are this flimsy or if the one I bought was an even lower grade that just imitates the "look" of the other cheap ones.
 

Rusted Nut

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Northern Arizona
I have the Lisle 29100. Works well, quick with lots of force for stuck calipers. It’s plenty big enough for dual piston truck brakes, and you can use one end of it on motorcycle brakes.

 

2ndGearRubber

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I have the Lisle 29100. Works well, quick with lots of force for stuck calipers. It’s plenty big enough for dual piston truck brakes, and you can use one end of it on motorcycle brakes.


I have had zero luck with those. They never seem to get the caliper to move at all?
 
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TxSteve

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Aug 22, 2023
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Granbury, Texas
That kit looks identical to the HF version I bought.....20?....years ago. I've been able to successfully use it many times on brakes for family and friends....

I bought it originally to do brakes on an old Ford Freestyle that had the twist in calipers.

That Lang tool listed above looks interesting, but my kit works great.
 
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Bmberzins

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Aug 23, 2023
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43
So, ordered the kit and the Lang. I will see which I like better. Maybe keep both since the Lang looks super convenient.
 

Sumboodie

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AK
I’d agree with 2ndGrear.
Lisle is nice
Check if you need a twist in compressor, typically on the rear and anything with electric park brake and a few other euro things.

As a tip, also get a bleeder bottle with clear line that fits your bleed fittings. Crack the fitting while compressing the pistons, it makes it a lot easier and you DO NOT want the contaminated fluid that was hanging out in the piston back in your brake system.
Also if you’re changing pads you’re probably well past due to flush the fluid anyway and you’re all hooked up to do it. For me I just go pump the brake pedal until the fluid in the bleeder bottle line is clean (after sucking the old fluid out of the reservoir and replacing with new). On all the modern cars I’ve worked on I’ve never had any issue with fluid reversion at the bleeder when pumping the pedal. That means the one person operation is enough. Motorcycles and classic stuff is frequently a different story.
Often opening a giant can of worms getting a bleeder loose! If it's a rusty sorta of bleeder, I'm not touching it unless I have to, and at that point understand I might be buying calipers.
Not too bad on a Honda or other small common vehicles but some of them on trucks cost a day or two of wages!
 

2ndGearRubber

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Huh. I just used it a few weeks ago on a seized F350 caliper, like seized to the point of smoking the brakes. Was going to rebuild it, but just got new ones instead.

Do you open the bleeder? Mine just flexes and skips. Maybe it's defective?

Often opening a giant can of worms getting a bleeder loose!

That's always quite the gamble. If fluid was changed regularly it would be a non issue. My car is getting it done this year, IIRC I also flushed it when I bought it ~3 years ago. Old, nasty, moisture filled fluid does nothing good for anyone. I see not messing with something old that has crusty calipers, but if you can, why would you not?

The only downside of compressing with the bleeder open is loosing a bit of feel for how the piston moves while retracting it.
 

Sumboodie

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Do you open the bleeder? Mine just flexes and skips. Maybe it's defective?



That's always quite the gamble. If fluid was changed regularly it would be a non issue. My car is getting it done this year, IIRC I also flushed it when I bought it ~3 years ago. Old, nasty, moisture filled fluid does nothing good for anyone. I see not messing with something old that has crusty calipers, but if you can, why would you not?

The only downside of compressing with the bleeder open is loosing a bit of feel for how the piston moves while retracting it.
Last few sets of brakes I've done i just pushed it into the master cylinder reservoir, sucked that out and put fresh stuff.

I know not the best way, but I wasn't going to fight with bleeders unless I have no choice.
 

2ndGearRubber

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Last few sets of brakes I've done i just pushed it into the master cylinder reservoir, sucked that out and put fresh stuff.

I know not the best way, but I wasn't going to fight with bleeders unless I have no choice.

I basically never open them. As you said it isn't realistic in a lot of situations.
 

428PI

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Jul 14, 2018
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Peabody, KS
I've only had a 6 inch C clamp. The business's always bought the other tools such as for rear calipers. No more than I'll do in my lifetime probably the little square tool that has the tips for screwing the rear caliper will work just fine. Loved the pneumatic one we had at Cmax.
 

chevy.stroker

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Dec 31, 2010
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Waco, TX
I started with a c clamp in the 70's. Works fine until you run into quad piston calipers, or need to rewind them. Although, I have used a c clamp and channel locks to twist in a pinch.
 

dnschmidt

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Oct 3, 2014
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Phoenix, AZ
Astro/Lang/ + a lot of other copies. The ASTRO kit for the rears. For cars that don't use the wind back tool Lange also makes a mini version for the much smaller rear brakes.
 

rooster59

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Nov 16, 2014
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Land of the Pines
I’m a nut. Every spring I give the undercarriage a good hose down, + spray off the bleeders. Couple days later I crack each one. We do have road salt.
 

Firebrick43

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May 12, 2015
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Location
West central Indiana
I started with a c clamp in the 70's. Works fine until you run into quad piston calipers, or need to rewind them. Although, I have used a c clamp and channel locks to twist in a pinch.
I used to as well but needing a rewind tool anyways I bought the kit. Flip one of the big disc around so the pins are facing back towards the screw and it works great to push in standard calipers. So much so I haven't used a c clamp in years.
 
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