What are you working on?Finally going to buy the right tool, tired of a piece of wood and a clamp, any decent ones out there that won't break the bank.
Thanks very much.
Right now a Honda Accord 6 2004. However, I have several other vehicles that I will need to use it on as well.What are you working on?
Which pneumatic one do you use?I use the Lisle compressors, or vise grip 11r for smaller calipers.
For twist in, I have a pneumatic tool. Previously I used a basic twist in kit from harbor freight.
I’d agree with 2ndGrear.Right now a Honda Accord 6 2004. However, I have several other vehicles that I will need to use it on as well.
For now single. Which Lisle do you have?Single or dual piston? I have the Lisle one and works well enough.
Which pneumatic one do you use?
I second this idea. It's not a highly technical piece of equipment and the OP said "that won't break the bank"."16 piece pneumatic caliper windback tool" on Amazon. I believe mine is an older Ares model, it's blue. They all look about the same.
IIRC you'll need a windback tool for the rear calipers, fronts just press straight in.
I have the Lisle 29100. Works well, quick with lots of force for stuck calipers. It’s plenty big enough for dual piston truck brakes, and you can use one end of it on motorcycle brakes.
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29100 Quick Quad Pad Spreader
A Quick Way to Spread Brake Pads and Compress Disc Brake Pistons for Pad Replacement on Single, Double & Quad Piston Calipers.www.lislecorp.com
Actually that is a good point. Thanks.If you think you will ever do modern rear disc brakes with parking brakes integrated in you should get a kit like @zmotorsports showed.
I have the Astro version and it works well
https://www.amazon.com/Astro-78618-Brake-Caliper-Tool/dp/B002RDGMNM?tag=atomicindus08-20
Huh. I just used it a few weeks ago on a seized F350 caliper, like seized to the point of smoking the brakes. Was going to rebuild it, but just got new ones instead.I have had zero luck with those. They never seem to get the caliper to move at all?
Often opening a giant can of worms getting a bleeder loose! If it's a rusty sorta of bleeder, I'm not touching it unless I have to, and at that point understand I might be buying calipers.I’d agree with 2ndGrear.
Lisle is nice
Check if you need a twist in compressor, typically on the rear and anything with electric park brake and a few other euro things.
As a tip, also get a bleeder bottle with clear line that fits your bleed fittings. Crack the fitting while compressing the pistons, it makes it a lot easier and you DO NOT want the contaminated fluid that was hanging out in the piston back in your brake system.
Also if you’re changing pads you’re probably well past due to flush the fluid anyway and you’re all hooked up to do it. For me I just go pump the brake pedal until the fluid in the bleeder bottle line is clean (after sucking the old fluid out of the reservoir and replacing with new). On all the modern cars I’ve worked on I’ve never had any issue with fluid reversion at the bleeder when pumping the pedal. That means the one person operation is enough. Motorcycles and classic stuff is frequently a different story.
Huh. I just used it a few weeks ago on a seized F350 caliper, like seized to the point of smoking the brakes. Was going to rebuild it, but just got new ones instead.
Often opening a giant can of worms getting a bleeder loose!
So, ordered the kit and the Lang. I will see which I like better. Maybe keep both since the Lang looks super convenient.
Do you open the bleeder? Mine just flexes and skips. Maybe it's defective?
Sorry to say, but yours is defective.
Last few sets of brakes I've done i just pushed it into the master cylinder reservoir, sucked that out and put fresh stuff.Do you open the bleeder? Mine just flexes and skips. Maybe it's defective?
That's always quite the gamble. If fluid was changed regularly it would be a non issue. My car is getting it done this year, IIRC I also flushed it when I bought it ~3 years ago. Old, nasty, moisture filled fluid does nothing good for anyone. I see not messing with something old that has crusty calipers, but if you can, why would you not?
The only downside of compressing with the bleeder open is loosing a bit of feel for how the piston moves while retracting it.
Last few sets of brakes I've done i just pushed it into the master cylinder reservoir, sucked that out and put fresh stuff.
I know not the best way, but I wasn't going to fight with bleeders unless I have no choice.
If you think you will ever do modern rear disc brakes with parking brakes integrated in you should get a kit like @zmotorsports showed.
I have the Astro version and it works well
https://www.amazon.com/Astro-78618-Brake-Caliper-Tool/dp/B002RDGMNM?tag=atomicindus08-20
I used to as well but needing a rewind tool anyways I bought the kit. Flip one of the big disc around so the pins are facing back towards the screw and it works great to push in standard calipers. So much so I haven't used a c clamp in years.I started with a c clamp in the 70's. Works fine until you run into quad piston calipers, or need to rewind them. Although, I have used a c clamp and channel locks to twist in a pinch.
I never open them either unless I'm flushing the fluid. I just open the master cylinder reservoir to let air out when I'm pressing in the cylinders. Siphon out any extra that might be there...I basically never open them. As you said it isn't realistic in a lot of situations.