Recommendations on floor coatings?

[NIZMOZ]

I just can’t make up my mind as to which way to go on the floor. Tile or Epoxy. I am leaning more towards Epoxy. If we go Epoxy, I don’t want it to ever lift or have any issues in the future. Our house is 30 years old and the garage floor shows it. It would need some major prep and I would like your advice on what you would recommend we use and how. It is a 2 car garage with about a 5 foot by 15 foot section in front of one side of the garage for a work bench. So it’s a little bigger than a normal two car garage. We also have a big water softener which I am unsure on how to move to do this yet.

Since I have never done anything like this before, I am looking for your best advice you can give me. Any recommendations on good quality product also? It will be used for cars, daily traffic, working on vehicles as well.

Thanks!

 

[NIZMOZ]

Wow many views but no responses.....

Also because of some of the large items we have in the garage that would be hard to move for the Epoxy, I am thinking of VCT with Epoxy coating? I want it to be not slick when wet but also it can be put on in sections. Please give me your advice.

Thanks!

 

[GeorgiaHybrid]

Research and choose your own poison. Once you make a choice of VCT, Epoxy, Ceramic tile, concrete sealer, Race Deck or other covering, you will get a lot of opinions on the direction to go.

Only you can make the initial call however based upon what you require out of your floor covering.

I would not cover VCT with Epoxy however as you noted in your last post.

 

[gabeancounter]

I would use epoxy. Not a big fan of tiles but this is personel preference. I suggest taking the time to fill the cracks etc. I think this would not take as much time as you may think. I know Alpha sells some good crack filler for chips etc. All their products seem to be top notch. Kinda like snap on versus craftsman, but I am too cheap to buy those tools.

If I was starting from scratch I would give the Norkan epoxy a try. Its on ebay. Search epoxy flooring. $148 for 3 gallons. 120 sqft a gallon. Or maybe I have yet to learn my lesson ? Anyway just wanted to give you a response.

 

[NIZMOZ]

Research and choose your own poison. Once you make a choice of VCT, Epoxy, Ceramic tile, concrete sealer, Race Deck or other covering, you will get a lot of opinions on the direction to go.

Only you can make the initial call however based upon what you require out of your floor covering.

I would not cover VCT with Epoxy however as you noted in your last post.

Problem is I have been researching it for 6 months. Why not cover Epoxy over VCT? I need to make sure it's not slick and it seems to be recommended here?

 

[GeorgiaHybrid]

If you want VCT tile, just scuff it up on occasion and it will not be slick. If you polish it, it will be slippery. If you are going to coat it with epoxy, why bother with the tile????

If you use epoxy, there are a number of additives that will give the floor some "grip" ranging from aluminum oxides to plastic.

 

[NIZMOZ]

True. I really want to do just VCT but also want to prevent marks on the floor. I just did a sealer test on the floor and it has some type of sealant I guess that was put on when the house was built 30 years ago because the water just beads on top and never soaks in. For VCT, I assume we need to get that off. What are your recommendations?

 

[GeorgiaHybrid]

VCT is put down with adhesive. I don't think you need to get rid of the sealer. Just clean it well and glue it down. As far as marking, that is one of the drawbacks with VCT. You can wax it but that gets back to the "slick" floor that you do not want. A scrub with a nylon scrubber on a floor polisher will get rid of the marks. That is one advantage to a commercial VCT over regular tile, the color goes all the way thru the tile.

 

[texas-saluki]

I think anything you chose is going to have a life span. I don't think any of these will last forever. You are driving a car on them or walking on them and over time something is going to stain or fail. IMOP I think epoxy is the way to go. I did a HD coating about 9 years ago and it is time to be replaced, not because anything has failed but because it is starting to look dingy with paint and stain from random home projects.

What is driving my decision is what is going to be the easiest to replace assuming I am in the house in another 15 years. I think renting a grinder from HD I can have it preped for a new coating in a weekend. VCT seems like it would be a PITA to remove, and I cannot get my head around racedeck and keeping the garage clean as it seems dirt and junk would get underneath them.

so... my $0.02

Chris

 

[AlphaGarage]

I I did a HD coating about 9 years ago and it is time to be replaced, not because anything has failed but because it is starting to look dingy with paint and stain from random home projects.

What is driving my decision is what is going to be the easiest to replace assuming I am in the house in another 15 years. I think renting a grinder from HD I can have it preped for a new coating in a weekend. VCT seems like it would be a PITA to remove, and I cannot get my head around racedeck and keeping the garage clean as it seems dirt and junk would get underneath them.

so... my $0.02

Chris

Chris:

Did you have a clear coat over the pigmented epoxy? One way to handle a clear coated system is to use the clear coat as a sacrificial layer. A good one will last for years under normal use, and as time goes on monitor the clear coat for wear. When heavy trafficked spots start to wear down and expose the pigmented layer consider just freshening up the clear coat.

For example, with our EnduraShield 2254 to re-freshen the floor would be a quick and easy process, scuff up the spots you want to refresh, wipe with denatured alcohol, and recoat just those areas. Even doing a whole floor is usually just a few hours work.

It's the old "a stitch in time saves nine" method.

 

[texas-saluki]

Chris:

Did you have a clear coat over the pigmented epoxy? One way to handle a clear coated system is to use the clear coat as a sacrificial layer. A good one will last for years under normal use, and as time goes on monitor the clear coat for wear. When heavy trafficked spots start to wear down and expose the pigmented layer consider just freshening up the clear coat.

No clear coat... I was not even aware of them back then. with all of the paint and stain that was not effectively cleaned up, I am not sure if a clear would have helped much anyway Need to be better with drop cloths it seems or get some thicker ones

 

[AlphaGarage]

Need to be better with drop cloths it seems or get some thicker ones

Or get a clear coat with great chemical stain resistance properties

 

[Mustanger]

Have used two epoxies over the last few years. First was the Lowes (?) Quick Crete, and it was put on 3 years ago. Have had a couple of places where hot tires picked up, and a couple of gouges. Hind sight being 20/20, wish I had put a glaze/clear on top.

Just used Supercoat on my new garage (see post/threads in Garage Galleries for both or look at albums in my profile) with two coats of their clear glaze and anti-skid. Looks awesome, but don't know how it will wear. Key for both was prep.

Have seen some great floors with VTC. Boils down to what look you want.