recommendations on the right wrench for this issue

[MEDTECH]

Hi, first post after a few weeks of finding this site. You guys are very informative and helpful for a DIYer like myself...thanks to everyone who shares their experience. My problem is trying to find the proper wrench to remove and retighten the nut that tightens the rubber gasket on the tailpiece to the bottom of my pedestal sink basin. I have very little room to access the area because the sink is cemented to the wall and the pedestal is also securely attached to the basin itself. I have tried various slip joint pliers and even a basin wrench but the clearance is too tight. I can tighten only so much by hand but still have a small leak from the nut/gasket mating. Any advice would be appreciated. By the way, would a service wrench be a solution? Haven't had a chance to check them out, yet. Thx for any and all replies

 

[DanInVA]

Hello and welcome to Garage Journal. If I had make a suggestion, I would say to try a crow's foot wrench on it. You wouldn't happen to have a picture of the sink would you? You may find if you post a picture of it you get some more accurate advice on the best way to handle it.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[MEDTECH]

Thanks for your quick reply, Dan. I will attach pics showing the area. I also will replace the nut with a metal hex nut... just used that plastic nut thinking I could get a better grip by hand. Access is EXTREMELY tight and even without huge hands, can not tighten fully. Also, the jaws of the wrench can't be too wide because, if I'm lucky, maybe have 1/2" gap between the nut and the side of the sink basin.

 

[larry_g]

On my old pedestal sink the pedestal leg would slide out of the way to allow full access to the plumbing.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[MEDTECH]

Hi, Larry. Mine is really cemented to the base. I guess if I had to, I could remove the cement but, if I could find the right tool, that would be preferable. The previous owner really mounted this thing to be permanent! P.S. I HATE small bathrooms!!!

 

[rlitman]

I'd use a screwdriver or a bent tip prybar and some gentle hammer taps to turn the splines. It should only need to go maybe 1/4 turn past finger tight.

GREAT pictures BTW. Very helpful.

 

[Jeeper]

When I did mine like that, I installed the tail piece on the sink, before putting the sink on the pedestal. Plus, you don't need to go all gorilla on it, just enough to slightly compress the gasket.

Always assemble as much as you can before putting in place. Makes it easier.

 

[MEDTECH]

Unfortunately, the unit was installed by the previous homeowner. If I installed, I would not have secured the base to the sink...thus giving me access to slide out the pedestal for access. But I really appreciate everyones/ replies so far...thanks!

 

[Jeeper]

How did they secure the base to the sink? Glue?

 

[Greg85mcss]

Maybe try a strap wrench, oil filter pliers, tap it around with a screwdriver. I was able to get mine tight enough by hand.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[MEDTECH]

rlit, I like that solution. I will try to see if that works. Its amazing the lack of room behind there. Even disconnecting the supply lines and drain stopper, I pretty much have to contort myself. I'm 6'2" and 220 and not as young as I used to be...what a PITA just to lie down there and reach the area!!! My bathroom is barely 5 x 7

 

[oldldh]

The older you get...

The lower the things you need to reach will be...

And darker...

And smaller...

And the access area will be tighter...

You ain't seen nothing, yet...

I'd go with the "screwdriver tap around"...

I'm soon to be 71, and I'm 6'4" and 250 pounds...so, Grasshopper, I know whereof I speak!!!

 

[MEDTECH]

It's possible that I might just change the rubber washer and new tailpiece assembly. I've done a few of these in the past with no issues. However, I always had alot more room to work in. I will try all these tips and hopefully, leaks will stop. BTW, this is an OUTSTANDING forum...you guys are awesome...much appreciated!

 

[rice rocket]

Yeah I'd go for a rubber strap wrench too.

Like such:

 

[MEDTECH]

oldldh, laughed at your reply because I know you are right!!! My father always said..."don't ever get old"

 

[RECox286]

If you haven't tried a "basin wrench" yet, may I suggest

that you try one. They're nifty little wrenches for tight

spots like your's. Basically an offset, flex-head, flap-jawed

device that will grab just about any nut of a reasonable size

that is plumbing related. Well worth the money spent and

available at nearly all stores that stock plumbing supplies.

Good hunting

Uncle Bob

 

[MEDTECH]

Yup...have a basin wrench but the jaw is too wide to grip the nut without hitting the sides of the basin...at least I have the basin wrench for a future need on a different area!

 

[rlitman]

Maybe try a strap wrench...

That would have been my first choice too, until I saw the splines in the picture.

 

[Honda 1]

I also suggest trying a strap wrench for the job.

 

[MattVette89]

Curious....is this a newly installed facuet that uses a rubber gasket under the flange on the top side of the sink bowl?

 

[bigmike6970]

How about a spanner wrench will that fit in there

 

[ca90ss]

Coat the washer and threads with pipe sealant and you should have no problems with doing it hand tight.

 

[ricleh]

Hook spanner wrench or adjustable hook spanner wrench.

 

[drink]

Have you been able to attempt the lightly tapping the screwdriver/curved pry bar, chisel method yet? It should work unless you are in that tight of a spot.

 

[thebeekeeper1]

You need some kind of sealer on the contact surfaces, rather than trying to tighten with great force. I use a little bead of silicone--after the sink surface is thoroughly cleaned.

 

[KnurledNut]

Is there plumbers putty on the top side?
If so, and its still leaking, back the nut off, teflon tape the threads and refasten.
Hand tight should do.

 

[Wamsutta]

Fast forward to 0:52 in the video link below. I think that's what you need.

 

[MEDTECH]

Fast forward to 0:52 in the video link below. I think that's what you need.

While that is a great suggestion, the I.D. of that would not fit around my tailpiece which is 1-1/4". It seems it is 15/16" I.D. But, I may get one for whenever I may need to access faucet nuts. Thanks for the link. And, yes, I have putty under the flange on the top side of the sink basin. It does seem either lightly tapping or a crows foot wrench would be my best options. Will work on it this weekend when I have more time after work. Thanks for all the helpful advice

 

[PJNJ]

Hopefully you should be able to slip one of these tools in there -

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000VJU3A2/?tag=atomicindus08-20

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BQQMUU/?tag=atomicindus08-20

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PNOEX0/?tag=atomicindus08-20


They are usually available at Home Depot or Lowes or most plumbing supply stores. Or you can go to a plumbing supply house and see what they recommend.

You can also see if you can slip these in there and tighten it -
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SR53K/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Superbec]

http://www.homedepot.com/p/3-8-in-x-1-1-4-in-Telescopic-Basin-Wrench-70225/203550188

 

[anndel]

A pair of Channellocks or a Knipex Cobra plier will work. It'll be just in small turns but you don't have to over tighten, snug is good.

 

[Wamsutta]

This wrench might work. They say it's for 6, 8, or 12 sided slip joint nuts.

http://www.superiortool.com/wrenches/trapDrain.html


.

 

[Superbec]

http://www.homedepot.com/p/3-8-in-x-1-1-4-in-Telescopic-Basin-Wrench-70225/203550188

this is the right tool for the job ...

 

[Wamsutta]

this is the right tool for the job ...

Sure if you want to scratch that polished chrome slip joint nut all to hell ...

 

[Superbec]

Sure if you want to scratch that polished chrome slip joint nut all to hell ...

it's under the sink...dust mites and spiders are going to be very disappointed

 

[MEDTECH]

this is the right tool for the job ...

I tried using a basin wrench as I explained in my original post. The space between the nut and pedestal is extremely narrow. The jaw wouldn't fit . I will just see if i can lightly hammer the nut tight after i treat the threads with sealant. Luckily have some real long screwdrivers. The space really makes getting even your hand behind there a challenge

 

[MEDTECH]

Oops, my error

 

[Superbec]

I tried using a basin wrench as I explained in my original post. The space between the nut and pedestal is extremely narrow. The jaw wouldn't fit . I will just see if i can lightly hammer the nut tight after i treat the threads with sealant. Luckily have some real long screwdrivers. The space really makes getting even your hand behind there a challenge

well, I have a different sink wrench than HF one, it's slimmer .

I don't advise on having sealant on the threads, maybe you want the thing removed in the future, a bit of grease on the threads and on the rubber gasket will do wonders.

(i'm not a plumber , just don't like to pay for one and did this too many times)

 

[MEDTECH]

well, I have a different sink wrench than HF one, it's slimmer .

I don't advise on having sealant on the threads, maybe you want the thing removed in the future, a bit of grease on the threads and on the rubber gasket will do wonders.

(i'm not a plumber , just don't like to pay for one and did this too many times)

Thanks, Superbec. I'll just keep searching for the right tool. I agree that I'd rather do it myself than pay, especially since this repair is so basic. Now, if I'm running and plumbing gas pipe, I DEFINITELY won't be doing THAT myself!

 

[frankthezapper]

Might be time to make a spanner (wrench) yourself. Today as I was searching in a toolbox I saw a c spanner/pin spanner that I made must be 30 years ago for who remembers what. Start with a piece of 6mm plate, draw your curve, your hook on the end which is going to catch your knobs, leave it fat at the other end and file a square hole to fit a socket extension. Then start with hacksaw and files, you'll have it made in half the time it takes to drive to the first store.