To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Recommended demolition tools

7avalon7

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 14, 2015
Messages
1,464
Location
KY
Hi guys,
To make long story short, we bought a house and within the property there is a little wooden shed/storage that is in bad shape. It is about 8 x 8 ft or so.

I been thinking what tools I need to quickly and efficiently demolish this little shed. I am taking some time off from work, but will need to attend to other stuffs, so I have limited time to deal with it. I like to try to buy everything I need ahead of time. I am hoping I can just spend a couple hour to do this.

I have reciprocating saws, and thinking to buy some Lenox blades - I was told these are pretty good, and I just start cutting. I also have some Craftsman pry bars. Or should I just get a big sledge hammer?

I will have gloves and glasses. Anything other tools (brand and model) I may need?

Thanks
Chris
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

theoldwizard1

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 22, 2011
Messages
43,095
Location
SE MI
I assume you will have a dumpster.

Work top down. Use a pitch fork or shingle shovel to remove the shingles. After that, a full size "gooseneck" pry bar a long and standard length wonder bars and a good full size sledge.

If it is old and rotten, sometime a sledge and a come-a-long are the fastest way to bring it down, but you have to be careful it does not fall on you !
 

Bobcat753

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 24, 2014
Messages
1,487
Location
New Hampshire
Hmm... I see that as excuse to rent a mini excavator that has a thumb. Overkill but the demo would only take 45 minutes if that.:lol_hitti

On a serious note a sawzall with long (8-10 inch) demo blades would work fine. Cut it up into manageable pieces and throw in dumpster.
 

ibedayank

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 2, 2011
Messages
2,619
Location
Columbia TN
couple pounds of black powder chunk of waterpipe and 2 endcaps... and cannon fuse..

big crowbar... sledge... sawzall circular with a blade ment for demo that nails won't ruin
 

PureLeaf

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 25, 2014
Messages
1,417
Reciprocating saw with demolition blades (diablo, lenox, whatever). Pry Bar. Maybe a sledge hammer? Should about cover it...
 

jd_1138

Well-known member
Joined
May 8, 2013
Messages
17,042
Location
NE Ohio
When you start removing chucks out of it with the recip saw, pretty soon the roof will cave in and then you can cut it up with the recip saw too.

Large crowbars, Stanley Wonder bars might be useful too. But pretty much decent long demo blades and a corded recip is the main tool.

Good on you for wearing gloves and eye protection. I'd also invest in some work boots with a steel shank in them. That way you don't have to worry about stepping on a chunk of wood with a nail in it. I demo'd a shed once and had to fart around with watching for nails on the ground. Next time I had to demo a shed, I just bought a pair of work boots with steel shanks. Demo goes a lot faster if you're not worried about a 4 inch rusty nail going through your tennie shoe and up through your foot flesh (or even worse hitting a bone, ouch).
 
Last edited:

finn

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 27, 2005
Messages
16,190
Location
The UP, God's country
Do you have a winch on your truck?

If not, a sledge hammer, a framing hammer, a couple of long wrecking bars, and some long blades, including bimetal metal cutting blades for the sawzall.

Don't forget leather work gloves.
 

Bighead38

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 11, 2012
Messages
5,612
Location
Rockland County NY

A 3lb hammer is definitely not the first weight I would think of when talking about demolition.

45 min to wreck an 8x8 shed with a mini excavator and a thumb? Would have to be the persons first time on a machine. For a "standard" 8x8 shed I would say an operator could have it wrecked and loaded in less than ten minutes without a doubt. I would bet it could probably be done in under 5 min but that's if the shed is still good enough that you could grab it in big pieces. Ideally you would rip the roof off in one piece and swing it to the dumpster and then grab each wall the same way. Then it would just be one or two buckets for the scrap pieces.

Honestly for the best advice you need to post pictures.

If you have a friend that can help for a few minutes the job will be a breeze. Just cut it into the biggest pieces that you can still get into the dumpster.

Use a sawzall and cut the nails holding it together or use a chainsaw and make sure you don't hit the nails.

Even by yourself I can't see this taking more than an hour or two unless you have to drag or carry the stuff a good distance by hand.
 
Last edited:

dogdog

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 15, 2011
Messages
12,711
for demo jobs? Nothing beats the stanely FATMAX crowbars .... probably needed two. dependents on your situations.... I have two... haven't meet anything I can't pry open / apart yet.

k2-_4beb2572-2ede-499e-895c-05ff5b6716b1.v1.jpg
 

dogdog

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 15, 2011
Messages
12,711
It's just a lot of work no matter what tool, it's a demo job..... faster if you rent a mini excavator..... since you are outside, can't you pull it apart with your truck and a chain (safely)? then pick up pieces from there ???
 

Parabellum

Banned
Joined
Mar 6, 2014
Messages
888
Do you have a truck? Tie a big tow strap around the shed and floor it.
If its rotted, that will do the job for you.
 

jd_1138

Well-known member
Joined
May 8, 2013
Messages
17,042
Location
NE Ohio
It's just a lot of work no matter what tool, it's a demo job..... faster if you rent a mini excavator..... since you are outside, can't you pull it apart with your truck and a chain (safely)? then pick up pieces from there ???

That would be a fun and super easy way to do it. :)

Last time I demo'd a shed I was out in California and had no access to a truck. Probably would've burned the ****** in my mom's Jeep Patriot.

I vote the truck/come along/rip the shed apart method if you can. But will still need a recip saw.

And if there is wood you want to pull nails out of, one of these is awesome. Molding bar. I have one and it's been a useful little dude. Comes in Stanley or Dewalt brands and others too.

STA155510.jpg
 

bmwpowere36m3

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 8, 2012
Messages
1,125
Depending on its condition… a sledge and reciprocating saw to cut into manage pieces. Likely spend more time cleaning up, then actual demolishing.

Or a cable and car/truck and pull it down and cut it up. Post a pic…
 

matemike

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 8, 2015
Messages
211
Location
Brazoria, TX
Diesel. Match. gone in minutes.

X2
Diesel in a pump sprayer is very effective at putting the flames where you want. A second spayer with water, or better yet a water hose will help keep the flames away from where you don't want them to be.
As long as you aren't trying to save the materials and your neighborhood wouldn't call 911 on you, burn that shed to ashes.
 
Last edited:

Thumper68

Well-known member
Joined
May 16, 2013
Messages
5,134
Location
Duluth MN
I really like the chain and truck method, I took down my uncles old garage by myself that way, 20x12. Had it on the ground and cut up in under 3 hours.

pictures would help along with the kind of base/foundation it has to recommend the best way.
 

SuzukiGS750EZ

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 26, 2012
Messages
3,273
I demoed an entire kitchen sub floor (7/8") and cabines/counter with two Diablo bi metal demo blades (9"?). I've used Diablo, Lenox and milwaukee and the Diablo last the longest.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
7

7avalon7

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 14, 2015
Messages
1,464
Location
KY
Thanks guys for the feedback. I really appreciate them!

- Sorry, no picture. The property is 1.5 hr away, I just dont have the time to go there to take picture.
- It is old, not sure if it is rotten. The property has been empty for several years. The shed has roof with shingles (@theoldwizard1 - I may need to get shingle shovel), wall with sidings.
- It was padlocked, so I cant see the inside. Not sure of the foundation, but I can deal with it later. I just need the shed gone first.
- @jd_1138 - good idea about boots with steel shank
- Good idea about considering to use a truck to pull it. @finn @Parabellum - My land cruiser dont have a winch. I guess I can just tied a chain into the tow bar. This sounds fun!
- As much as I would like to use a stick of dynamite or pour gasoline and lit it, I dont think I can do that without getting in trouble lol
-@SuzukiGS750EZ will check out the Diablo bi metal blade
 

LXCam

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Apr 23, 2013
Messages
19,090
Location
AZ
Another vote for 3 gallons of gas and a bag of marshmallows.
 

PoorOwner

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 10, 2007
Messages
5,032
Location
CA
I know folks here really want to overkill. But this is a storage closet size almost..

Just use a sawzall and cut a couple of nails in each joint. The hammer is just hgtv show effect. I have never done it to my kitchen and garage remodel. (Walls was perfect using strategic cutting method ). You may want to get a crow bar type instead of the automotive prybar. Use a hammer to chisel it into the wood. Pry open a little and cut all the nails.

Milwaukee torch blades does go through nails really easy. You may need to switch to wood blade to reduce the wood or siding.
 
Last edited:

Jeeper

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 25, 2006
Messages
2,124
Location
Round Rock, TX
I use large end cutters from Channelock a lot to remove nails. Grab a nail head and use the side curve on the cutter as a fulcrum. When I do demo around the house (just did on my kitchen ceiling), I have to remove nails from boards cause I have kids running around.

148-10-376.png


Also a fan of wonder bars...essentially a flat pry bar.
a1b0ba71-aa23-400d-a073-6f1a1a65cc3a_400.jpg
 

ilovevocs

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 26, 2009
Messages
1,966
Location
Toledo, Ohio
Another vote for the Mini excavator.

Sans that cutting tools, pounding tools, and prying tools.

Also could pull it down with some chains and your truck.

If you have a beater you could just back it into a few of the corners.

The least legitimate option is to burn it down accidentally and claim it as a loss on your insurance. Not my style but fire seems to follow some folks around here.

A slide hammer with a vice grip welded to the end is handy too.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:

larry_g

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 28, 2007
Messages
16,872
Location
oregon
If cutting the roof into sections to remove do it from the top or off the ladder. If things go wrong you want to be on the top of the pile, not the bottom. I removed one building by removing the two end walls and then pushing it over. Now the side walls and roof are on the ground.

lg
no neat sig line
 

Brian_WK

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 30, 2015
Messages
1,177
Location
NE South Dakota
My favorite pry-bar ever:
Z0uBwvhcpEx_.JPG


The head pivots with a push of a lock button to get the perfect angle on your prying action. Made by Crescent.

Brian
 

signcrafter

Well-known member
Joined
May 9, 2012
Messages
12,318
I picked up a big HF prybar a while back... (I think it's like 5')... It worked pretty good and took the T-Man's abuse..

Had to roll the ladies over for a better position? Or was that the beach day when you had to use the prybar to fit them in their suits?
 

2oolhound

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 18, 2010
Messages
5,918
Location
BC Canada
Thanks guys for the feedback. I really appreciate them!
- It was padlocked, so I cant see the inside. Not sure of the foundation, but I can deal with it later. I just need the shed gone first.

It kinda sounds like it's still pretty solid. If this was a farm I'd say try to salvage it, you can't have too much dry storage on a farm. On a small lot it may just be in the way or not needed. I've salvaged lumber with a long wrecking bar, hammer and nail puller lots of times over the years. If you hit the boards square on with the end of the wrecking bar the board flies off without splitting, taking the nails with it. Popping the nails out is pretty fast too when you get good at it. In not too much time you could end up with a nice neat pile of lumber and not too big a pile of scrap to pay dumping fees on.

This is how we did things when I lived in the country and needing a couple of boards might mean a 5 hour trip to town so I'm not sure how it applies to the situation, just throwing it out there :).
 

SurfHunter

Member
Joined
May 8, 2016
Messages
21
I'd say pick one of these up.. Air Chisel.

Perfect for tile, concrete, car, truck etc..
 

Attachments

  • 20160111_222636.jpg
    20160111_222636.jpg
    148.2 KB · Views: 19

SurfHunter

Member
Joined
May 8, 2016
Messages
21
yeah, I may be guilty of that, and then speeding through and seeing that he bought a new home as well.
But,,,,,,,LOL

That air chisel will come in handy for the New house.. Maybe he'll need one for the demo as well.. I didn't see a picture;)
 

RichWentFishing

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 26, 2016
Messages
48
I tore out an entire garage when renovating.

Start on the inside and expose the studs if it isn't already exposed.

Remove shingles and siding with prybar. Flat bar preferred.

Take a cheap spade bit that's wider than your sawzall blades and poke holes in the roof so you can cut parrallel lines to the joists.

Use your sawzall to zip parrallel to the joists.

Pry off remaining roof with a prybar and/or whack with sledge hammer.

Take sawzall and start cutting the top and bottom beams of the walls.

Go crazy with the sledge hammer for the rest.

I would also bring an A frame ladder.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:

jfcasey

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 30, 2010
Messages
1,358
Location
New Hampshire
I use a 4lb mini sledge, and a Mayhew 58" pry bar. There ain't much that combo won't do with minimal effort.
 

bmwpowere36m3

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 8, 2012
Messages
1,125
If there is something nearby that might be damaged or you want saved… then more care is needed.

However, if you're bringing the whole thing down… don't bother stripping singles, siding, etc… Sawzall around two adjacent walls (rafter toe nails in top plate and adjoining studs in corners), attached a cable or rope as necessary and pull those walls down and the rest will come down with it.

Then you work on the ground with the sawzall to cut into manageable pieces to dump.
 

BikerDad

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 24, 2014
Messages
975
Location
Utah
Mr. W.E. Coyote has a recommendation ...
 

Attachments

  • dynamite.jpg
    dynamite.jpg
    109.7 KB · Views: 11
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom