Recptacle box wiring questions....?

[Tim Fitzgerald]

To make a long story short, I am finishing off off a room in my shop and am starting the wiring rough in. I am using metal receptacle boxes, had a few left over and plus I felt they were sturdier than the plastic ones. I am using 12/2 wire. I attempted to pigtail the wires in to the box and as Im sure you can imagine, there was no way they would fold in to the box, additionally, I noticed that one of the boxes my "electrician" friend wired to use as an example did not have a pigtail connecting the incoming and outgoing ground to a screwhole in the metal box itself...,

is it required to have the box itself grounded...?

in order to pigtail, do I need to take back my metal boxes and get plastic, Im thinking there might be way more room in plastic boxes..., where I could pigtail

or im guessing i could try and find a deeper metal box but keep in mind I am using 12 ga wire here...

aslo my buddy used no additional pigtailing so I believe if the first receptacle in my run has an issue, then they all would be out.

If I use a metal box for the size wire I am talking what depth box am i looking for that would have enough room for pigtailing and wirenuts...?

and lastly, what is the primary set of pliers used for making loops. This **** kicked my **** as I would either strip to little or more than I should have insulation..., how do you gauge this and also making the bend to fit around the screw..., looking for a fool proof method..

thanks to all who respond in advance!

 

[Greg-nwo]

Yes the box itself needs to be grounded... if power comes in contact with the box you want it grounded

If you need more room they do make deep boxes that will give you more room to play with. I've put in a few timers etc. that need more space and these will make things much easier.

Usually just a normal pair of needle nose pliers do the trick. Trial and error for how much to wrap around the screw... after a few you should be able to eyeball it pretty well. There might be a template online that would give you an exact length... not sure.

 

[Labradorian]

Yes the box itself needs to be grounded... if power comes in contact with the box you want it grounded

If you need more room they do make deep boxes that will give you more room to play with. I've put in a few timers etc. that need more space and these will make things much easier.

Usually just a normal pair of needle nose pliers do the trick. Trial and error for how much to wrap around the screw... after a few you should be able to eyeball it pretty well. There might be a template online that would give you an exact length... not sure.

that ^ and to add to your post greg....... if you have a light switch or receptacle that you recently bought, there is a stripping length guide stamped right on the back of the receptacle. right on the outer edge, a built in depth gauge.........if that helps you at all

 

[Greg-nwo]

Isn't that gauge for use if you are putting the wires into the holes in the back rather than using the screws? Or both?

 

[Grabber70Mach]

You may want to look at a set of these:
http://m.lowes.com/pd/Southwire-Wire-Strippers/50081544

And these might help your ground issue:

http://m.lowes.com/pd/IDEAL-25-Pack-Plastic-Wing-Wire-Connectors/3128799

But the boxes need to be properly sized for the amount of wires and devices being utilized in it.

From infinity and beyond

 

[wyliesdiesels]

The metal j box needs a ground pig tail IF the device ISNT self grounding. Also, if youre using emt from panel to box, no ground pigtail is needed as the box will be grounded via the conduit

Otherwise the yoke grounds the box. Pigtailing is a better method as the current flowing through the circuit doesnt pass through the outlet.

I use needlenose to make loops. I usually strip about half an inch off and then loop so that the bare wire doesnt extend beyond the plastic housing of the outlet.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

For something like a shop, I have give up on any type of box except a deep 4x4 metal box. You can get all kinds of fronts for them, various depth single and double mud rings, industrial type covers, etc, and you have lots of room to work. They do make versions with ears for screwing to studs, and versions with conduit KO's and types with Romex wire clamps. Don't even waste my time with single boxes. I do use deep handy boxes with mounting brackets for the workbenches (on the legs of the benches) but not for anything else.

Charles

 

[brewchief]

For something like a shop, I have give up on any type of box except a deep 4x4 metal box. You can get all kinds of fronts for them, various depth single and double mud rings, industrial type covers, etc, and you have lots of room to work. They do make versions with ears for screwing to studs, and versions with conduit KO's and types with Romex wire clamps. Don't even waste my time with single boxes. I do use deep handy boxes with mounting brackets for the workbenches (on the legs of the benches) but not for anything else.

Charles

I agree with this, deep 4x4 box is the way to go.

I ground the box and the device that's getting mounted in the box even if it's self grounding, not much more time involved.

 

[Cmreschke]

Needle nose or there normally is a hole or two on almost all strippers now that aid in looping solid wire strip and loop with one tool as apposed to two tools.