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Redo of Epoxy

toucansma

Member
Joined
Aug 4, 2014
Messages
10
First off, thanks to everyone around here for all the tips and pointers! Truly appreciated.

Well on to the story. Friend and a contractor ended up helping out and getting a Norklad 200 epoxy system for me (primer, epoxy, and urethane top coat). Primer went fine, then came the epoxy. First batch cured way too quickly (followed directions), may have been due to the container it was in, combined with the high heat and humidity. Either way, next batches were mixed in smaller amounts. Looked fine, left it, and it never dried correctly (been 7 days, really tacky). Talked to Norklad, went over, and figured out the mixing amounts must have been way off. Very nice and sent out product at a significantly reduced price. Told us to use xylene and scrape off tacky parts, then cover over. Yesterday used nearly 2 containers of xylene and big scrappers, and contractor was having major problems getting the tackiness off. Floor still really tacky in major portions (like stepping in bubblegum). Question to you guys, do we need to keep at it with the scraping or should we just get a grinder? How much tackiness can be left behind (I searched and there seemed to be varying answers on here as to that). Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 
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shaun oriold1

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Oct 9, 2011
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288
Location
Burlington,Ontatio
What was the determined "way off"-ness of the mix. If you're lucky, it might cure really really slowly. Though after 7 days I doubt it.

If you get a grinder, you're not looking for a grinding discs, rather PCDs to scrape the floor. A typical grinder will gum up and be less effective.

You probably want to play it safe and just scrape the floor, whether by hand, or machine. You can try a floor scraper which might get you better leverage....
 
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toucansma

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Aug 4, 2014
Messages
10
There was a complete extra can of the hardener, so some how it was way off. Thanks for the tips!
 
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shaun oriold1

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Oct 9, 2011
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288
Location
Burlington,Ontatio
I do floors as a business, and I was taught to mark the cans with part A and Part B. The chemicals I use are pretty specific 2g & 1g, so its hard to screw up. ITs just a nice visual reminder as I'm going along.

I also mark my mixing containers at 80oz & 40 oz with a big A & B beside them respectively. As well, use new containers for each mix, so the residue in the container doesn't sku my next mix.


Its easy to screw up, and ***** balls when it happens. You wont do it again though!
 
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toucansma

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Joined
Aug 4, 2014
Messages
10
Thanks Shaun. Pulled it off and redid the proper ratio and it has turned out great! Thanks!
 
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