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Reed 4C

sixkidsdad

Active member
Joined
Jan 4, 2013
Messages
32
Location
North Carolina
Hello everyone, I'm new to Garage journal. I recently purchased a machinist vise made by Reed out of Erie PA. It is a 4C and was owned by a machine shop owner who recently passed away. Interestingly, the machine shop was on an island off the coast of NC. I spoke to the son and he said that his dad never let anyone hammer on it and that it was well cared for. So, I purchased it. It looks and moves like it has been sitting somewhere for a long while because it opens and closes SLOWLY. I'd like to give it a thorough going over so we can use it on our farm. I have a couple of questions that I was hoping someone could help with. How do you take it apart? I called Reed today and talked to a fellow named Michael and he was very knowledgeable but there is a set screw on the side which will allow me to take a split ring out of the front. There is also a set screw under the main feed screw. Also, can I heat the cast iron around the split ring that seems to need backing out? Thanks!
 

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pipsters

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Sep 1, 2010
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Was wondering when that would sell. He was at $300 back in August IIRC. I was surprised to see it relist for $400. If it works it was worth even that. I never made the 8 hour round trip drive to pick it up, although I almost did back when it was at $300.
 

pipsters

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Sep 1, 2010
Messages
4,899
Location
USA
I remember him saying something to that effect. That is close by me, I should've called him a couple months ago...haha...to be honest that thing is just too big for me though. I really had no need for it.
 

Catalyze

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Joined
Feb 7, 2011
Messages
1,369
Location
New Mexico
Six....welcome to the Forum!!
All of us that are vise folks knew about that Reed of yours the day it hit CL. We discussed its location and such for a few weeks. So you have a famous vise in our book. LOL

Rather than answer your Reed question in this post, I will direct you to a post that I did on how to take apart a Reed 3C. If anything isn't clear after reading just post back to us. Also make sure to join in the thread in this forum section called The Vises of Garage Journal. All of us read it almost daily. Good Luck!
Craig
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=104808&highlight=Reed
 
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sixkidsdad

Active member
Joined
Jan 4, 2013
Messages
32
Location
North Carolina
Thanks Catalyze! I checked out your handy work on the Reed 3C. Very nice photos and description. Very nice result. I'll try to document and post my project although i'm not as good with words or photos, or skills I think. The post helped alot. I'm a little apprehensive about beating on anything on the vise let alone the split nut. I've got everything I could see in and around the split nut soaking up oil. Tomorrow I was thinking about grinding the end of a bolt to match the shape (as best I can) of one of those four little pill shaped tubs on the split nut and start hammering. What about heating? It's too bad but Reed doesn't have any literature, NOS parts or schematics on it or for the 2C anymore. According to a conversation I had with a Reed Technician today, the 1C and 3C owners are still in luck as far as parts are concerned. The technician said that they stopped making the 4C in 1988 and added that the company was very proud of that model. He said that it is a far better vise than anything made today. Thanks for the warm welcome.
 

bigcaddy

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Joined
Jan 17, 2012
Messages
2,418
Location
Orange County/ San Fernando Valley
I've got a Reed 2C in my shop and have worked on a 1/2 dozen of them in the past few years. Here's a bit of info you might find helpful when removing that split nut.

Check out each of the 4 notches on the face of the split ring. A bright flashlight will be your friend here. 2 of them will be solid while the remaining 2 will have a crack at the bottom. Those are the "splits" in the split ring.

When you take your drift punch and start tapping, try to only tap on the ones that are solid and not split. When you tap on the split notches, they will move the ring but act like a car's rear brake shoe and want to move outwards, slowing or binding the ring removal process. Its not a huge deal if you don't do this but its part of my Reed vise breakdown procedure. Good luck getting that beast apart and shined up.

I had my eyes on that thing and I actually called that guy about the vise. That may not seem like a big deal but he was in NC and i live in California. :shocking: Welcome to Garage Journal and in case you were wondering, the vise acquiring sickness only gets worse with time.
 

demoman

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Joined
May 4, 2010
Messages
244
Location
North Central Kansas
Nice find!! I have several 4c vises and yours is a newer "old" version as it has replaceable jaws. I had a 4c that we could not get the nut out of a few years ago. I soaked it in kroil (Kano) oil and went to work on it. If you don't have a can of kroil GET some as it is the best penetrating lube I have ever used. We then had two people beat on the ring with a punch from each side of the ring. This was enough action in oppisite directions to keep it from binding. If you have a blunt chisel on an air hammer it also works good if you feather the control and don't distroy the nut while someone else taps the oppisite side.
By the way the newest 4c versions went on a diet and weigh in at about 165 pounds compared to yours at 185. Reed sold the newer 4c vises under their name as well as Ridgid and Columbian. I will post a photo with all three lined up if anyone cares to see.
:)
 
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demoman

Well-known member
Joined
May 4, 2010
Messages
244
Location
North Central Kansas
I've got a Reed 2C in my shop and have worked on a 1/2 dozen of them in the past few years. Here's a bit of info you might find helpful when removing that split nut.

Check out each of the 4 notches on the face of the split ring. A bright flashlight will be your friend here. 2 of them will be solid while the remaining 2 will have a crack at the bottom. Those are the "splits" in the split ring.

When you take your drift punch and start tapping, try to only tap on the ones that are solid and not split. When you tap on the split notches, they will move the ring but act like a car's rear brake shoe and want to move outwards, slowing or binding the ring removal process. Its not a huge deal if you don't do this but its part of my Reed vise breakdown procedure. Good luck getting that beast apart and shined up.

I had my eyes on that thing and I actually called that guy about the vise. That may not seem like a big deal but he was in NC and i live in California. :shocking: Welcome to Garage Journal and in case you were wondering, the vise acquiring sickness only gets worse with time.

Yes the vise sickness gets worse with time but there are a lot worse habits and someday I could sell my bad habit!!! The olny cure is to buy bigger vises and then the fix lasts longer!
 

EBCooper

New member
Joined
Nov 19, 2010
Messages
3
Location
Northeast
Hi there Demoman,

If you should happen to stumble on this and it's not too much trouble could you post that photo (photos?) you were speaking about comparing the older 185 lb. version of the Reed 4C and the late production model where the 4C weighed 165 lbs. ? Also as compared to the Ridgid and Columbian models.

Thanks much.
 
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