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Reed swivel jaw price?

jakemac

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Aanndd. This is the jaw nut? (Word excapes me) seems there is a pin that has been smashed in there.

That pin is there to lock the main nut in place. Many brands use that method. The hole should go all the way though, so that you can punch it out from the bottom.
 
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drivesitfar

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XJ: that pin holding the vise nut can be removed from down below by hitting up on it with a punch so you can remove the vise nut and clean up that area if you want to.

it looks like other than the hideous red paint you might have a keeper. not sure what that nail or whatever it is?
 
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xjbmx

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XJ: i'm not sure it's brazed either so i wouldn't necessarily run away from that vise because it looks pretty clean. is the line of weld on the one jaw a fix or just some leftover from a project? see any cracks?

it looks like a 404 or did it say 404 1/2 on the side? if you are still there ask if you can take the dynamic out all the way so you can check under the pin which should have a hole inside the static above the vise nut. see any signs of damage or weld there?

if you can get that swivel pin out and the swivel jaw to work it's easily worth the $100.

good luck


It's a 414 1/2 and see above! Haha just a fes seconds behind ya haha
 

jakemac

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Some are, some aren't. The ones that I've removed (very few) were all straight pins.

Sometimes the pins are bent towards the nut to take up slop in the nut to keep it from moving.

EDIT - Oops, I thought you were talking about the pin behind the main nut. The pin for the swivel jaw should be a tapered pin.
 
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drivesitfar

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XJ: some are just drop in pins, but there are those that have threads. i'm almost guessing the threaded ones were made by the owners and not factory, but since i don't own another 414.5 vise i can't say for sure. can you take full side pictures so we can see the full vise or did i miss those on your prior posts? i'm only seeing one side's full side picture.

like i said if you don't see any welds or cracks i'd buy that vise for $100.
 
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Outlawmws

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Grind the weld smooth and a triangle file can recut the groove. Some appear to be hand cut from the factory...

On the other hand there is a contingent of users that like completely smooth jaws... (no mar...)

Don't be afraid to work the guy on price. Point out EVERY concern if he resists...
 

drivesitfar

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XJ: one of our members was talking about hand filing grooves in his old jaws last week on our big Vise thread in general tools. he said it was a real PIA and even if it was easy i totally agree with Jake if you need a bit more grip why not buy a pair of copper jaws and not mark up your project.

did you buy it because it looks better all the time? or should i ask my friend in Detroit to buy it for me? where?
 
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xjbmx

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Haha good points. But yes I
I did. Finally got the pin out, it was a taper. Not sure what that threads part is on the under side though. I'll post some tear down shots when get it home.
 

drivesitfar

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XJ: congrats and i hope it ends up being a keeper. as much as we all try to help there is always a bit of an unknown so yes post up plenty more pictures after you get that awful red paint job off it.
 

Filson

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All Reed vises are ****.

Send it to me, and I'll dispose of it for you safely. :thumbup:

Seriously though, it's a shame it's seen better days, but hey, I still would have picked it up myself had I seen the condition.
 

zkling

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Aanndd. This is the jaw nut? (Word excapes me) seems there is a pin that has been smashed in there.

Is it just me or does the base of the nut look cracked? I'd pass on that if I was you.
 

drivesitfar

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ZK: it looks like grease and not a crack. we'll find out soon enough because he bought the vise and is planning on cleaning it up and taking more pictures.
 

jakemac

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If you rotate the picture, it looks more like a line caused by a chunk of crud or grease. I think the nut is fine. :dunno:
 
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Outlawmws

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All Reed vises are ****.

Send it to me, and I'll dispose of it for you safely. :thumbup:

Seriously though, it's a shame it's seen better days, but hey, I still would have picked it up myself had I seen the condition.

Kinda hard to sell that wooden nickel with your avatar sitting next to that statement. :lol_hitti

Shhh... Maybe he wont notice. :dunno::confused::headscrat:wtf::dunno:

:thumbup:

Fixed it for him! :evil:

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xjbmx

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Shhh... Maybe he wont notice. :dunno::confused::headscrat:wtf::dunno:

:thumbup:

Haha, to be honest, it took a second to notice haha.:lol_hitti

Ok so, pictures as promised.

No, it's not a crack! You guys scared me.


Tearing down. (And yes, I'm making a bigger table haha)


slide anvil !:mad:


Bottom

Base off.

Home made swivel lock... thing?(name?)

Swivel jaw.

So I found some of the parts are number stamped? This normal?
Swivel jaw.

Base, under the jaw.


Rememb those treads? I guess someone messed up at some point and filled the hole in with a screw, and burned it in? Maybe it began to crack and they drilled it to save it?

Remember that "nail" in the jaw suppor? Looks to be a pin made to be there? There is a hole on the opposite side but no pin.
 
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xjbmx

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Now the ugly.

Dynamic Jaw. What do you guys think about machining this down, and tapping it for a replaceable surface? I have access to a full machine shop, so it would just be a matter of if it would be durrable.


And any ideas for replacement knobs?

I'm going to take it to work and sand blast it all. So what would the original color be? Seems like red would have been it?
 

Fretters

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That damage to the slide is nowt to worry about. People tend to use flat metal surfaces for pounding on, so what you have on the back end of that slide isn't unexpected, and isn't detrimental to operation or longevity. Just file down any high spots if it's catching, but other than that leave it be.

Regarding that threaded rod welded in where the rear jaw taper pin goes, you'll likely find that swivel jaw isn't original.That's what the 17 and 15 are. They're production numbers stamped during production to keep all fitted parts together. The mismatch means that someone likely replaced that swivel jaw and had to move the location of the hole in the base for the swivel pin. Again, it's neither detrimental nor problematic in any way. It looks nicely done.

With regard to those jaws, I honestly wouldn't touch them. That braze is plenty to keep that there. File down the excess if you must, but personally, I'd leave that as is otherwise. As others have said, some copper jaw covers would be a far better approach than messing with the jaws themselves.

I think you've done well with that vice. The simple fact you've been able to remove the taper pin without weeks of cursing would make some on here curse you for being a lucky sod. :D With regard the changes,repairs etc., it's things like those which give old pieces their character. Those are all marks of something having had a working life, and of having been repaired and/or modified to suit during that time. Look on those as plus points rather than negatives. They are what makes each piece unique.
 

Filson

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I gotta agree with Fretters here, pretty much across the board. I'd leave the jaws be.

As for the color - paint it whatever suits your fancy. As for original color, I'm not sure. I've seen some old Reeds with old paint on them that was a sort of "industrial" looking grayish blue, some an off green, etc. My Reed 933, I do believe, is sporting it's original color. I'll post it below so you can get some ideas.

View media item 32290
 
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xjbmx

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Fretters- Yeah, it doesn't hang up at all, so i'm not too worried about it. Good to know about the number stamps, it definitely makes sense of all of that.

As for the welding on the jaw, will grind it down some as it's a bit un even, but jaw covers are definitely in the future. One of my biggest gripes about my chepie vises was the lack of grip on some parts which led to me tightening them till they exploded.

As for the taper pin, it doesn't seem to go more than .187" into the base, is that normal? Probably the reason it came out without alot of drama. If the swivel jaw was replaced I assume that is why the pin isn't fit perfectly either.

Yeah, I the history in the damage and modifications though, I wish could meed the guys that uses this thing (or any vintage tools) in times past. It is the same as with my Jeeps, they aren't dents, they are stories.:D

Filson-
Is it that old green/grey/blue hammered looking toolbox color? That's probably what I'll go with. That or if my black oxide guy still feels it will be small enough to stay in the minimum price rage, that probably would age the best.

And that 933 is a monster! I do like that color, looks just raw. Or the speck of blue I see? Also, is that a pipe cap on the end of the handle?
 

Filson

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Filson-
Is it that old green/grey/blue hammered looking toolbox color? That's probably what I'll go with. That or if my black oxide guy still feels it will be small enough to stay in the minimum price rage, that probably would age the best.

And that 933 is a monster! I do like that color, looks just raw. Or the speck of blue I see? Also, is that a pipe cap on the end of the handle?

I forgot I had this close up, which shows the color better. It's sort of a low saturation blue-green. I dunno, you tell me haha.

View media item 32511
And yeah, the handle has been replaced, and the top of the slide, at the rear has a crack. It's got some slope and is overall just pretty worn out.
 

Outlawmws

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So I'm guessing here that you bought it! :evil:

:beer:

Yeah, pretty much what fretters said. On the replaceable jaws, Reed did make them with replaceable jaws so if you really want to it's certainly doable. the key is do you NEED it? or jsut WANT it? :evil: we've all been there, done that on one thing or another!

Color: Do a search of the vise thread for Carla's posts, and you should find a couple of her incredible Reed restores. She is fond of a particular shade of green and I "think" its original.

So what was the tariff? inquiring minds and all that...
 

Fretters

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On the subject of people pounding on flat surfaces, one place I can say that it's definitely not smart is on lathe ways. If you've ever tried tickling scraped surfaces with a file to remove the burrs which some animal has created by pounding on them, you'll likely guess just how much fun I've been having for the past hour or so. :D
 

McBrownie

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xj,

Looks like that vise found the right new owner. Looks like you are going to give it the attention it deserves. Double-Swivelers are cool and expecially Reeds. Since you don't have an avatar yet, here is an idea for one. A little more straight on and it would look good. ;)
 

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Outlawmws

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xj,

Looks like that vise found the right new owner. Looks like you are going to give it the attention it deserves. Double-Swivelers are cool and expecially Reeds. Since you don't have an avatar yet, here is an idea for one. A little more straight on and it would look good. ;)

All it needs is google eyes! :lol_hitti
 
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xjbmx

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xj,

Looks like that vise found the right new owner. Looks like you are going to give it the attention it deserves. Double-Swivelers are cool and expecially Reeds. Since you don't have an avatar yet, here is an idea for one. A little more straight on and it would look good. ;)


Well thank you! I hope it enjoys it's stay haha. You know I saw that when taking the picture! Looks like thats what what I'm going with! With googlys of course:eyecrazy:.

Filson-
looks like a Detroit diesel grey to me. Definitely and option.

Outlaw-
Yeah, kicked it around for a while. Finally said screw it, i was just hung up on the jaw situation. As far as want vs need, I'll say I want to want them, afraid to need them :lol:, as I've said, I'm just worried about parts moving about.

Figured you guys would like this. Was smoothing out some of the bad knicks with a grey wheel, you can see where the jaw face is pressed into the rest of the jaw. (Proper terms??)
 

Carla

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So I'm guessing here that you bought it! :evil:

Color: Do a search of the vise thread for Carla's posts, and you should find a couple of her incredible Reed restores. She is fond of a particular shade of green and I "think" its original.

Hi, Outlaw,

So far as I know, all, or almost all, anyway, of the older Reed vises were originally black. I haven't seen all that many with original paint, so I've no way to tell whether that black was gloss or semi-gloss, possibly a gloss faded over time and exposure to light. I'm guessing 'gloss', and a cheap grade of enamel, probably done quickly with brushes by low-wage, low-morale workers. Paint finish quality was, apparently, a low priority at the Reed works.

The cast lettering was 'tipped' with either white or stove aluminium paint.

My 404 Reed, of late '30's vintage, still has its original paint, which was really 'minimum quality' paint work when new, and now badly faded.

It is, of course, entirely possible that various dealers might have specified a different colour for their lot orders of Reed vises, as a 'sales image' item. One might imagine some 'aggressive sales manager' adding 'we want 'em bright red, so they'll stand out in a display' or some such, to an order.

Sometime in the late 1940's or early '50's, the Reed works changed to a medium grey, with either white or red tipped lettering.

The medium green I use is the 1930's/40's era industrial 'vista green' or 'sage green', a gloss version of mil-spec 'cockpit green'. Its the old standard for an 'easy on eyes' colour for machinery.

My own reason for using a 'gentle' colour on a vise is to have it fade to 'background' easily, when one is concentrating on the work-piece held in the vise.

On vises I've refinished, I use either 'sage green' or very light grey, both of which are 'off the shelf' colours from most industrial paint suppliers.

cheers

Carla
 

Outlawmws

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Well thank you! I hope it enjoys it's stay haha. You know I saw that when taking the picture! Looks like thats what what I'm going with! With googlys of course:eyecrazy:.

Filson-
looks like a Detroit diesel grey to me. Definitely and option.

Outlaw-
Yeah, kicked it around for a while. Finally said screw it, i was just hung up on the jaw situation. As far as want vs need, I'll say I want to want them, afraid to need them :lol:, as I've said, I'm just worried about parts moving about.

Figured you guys would like this. Was smoothing out some of the bad knicks with a grey wheel, you can see where the jaw face is pressed into the rest of the jaw. (Proper terms??)

Actually what you are seeing is how the jaw was cast in place when they cast the main pieces.
 
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