To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Refinish tools and surfaces with epoxy?

phy6

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 18, 2007
Messages
275
Location
Maryland, It's a Wet Heat.
I put this in flooring, because it's kind of the "epoxy" section of the forum.
Mods feel free to move it.

Has anyone tried using an epoxy to coat things you'd normally use enamel for? Like lifts, jack stands, table tops, metal shelves/cabinets/etc?

How about over something permeable like wooden counter tops or plywood walls in a bathroom? I mean, is it possible to use it like paint and have it turn out ok? :headscrat
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

beelsr

Well-known member
Joined
May 6, 2007
Messages
1,324
Location
NE PA, USA
for gits & shiggles, i epoxy-coated an old pair of magnum boots where the toebox was starting to wear out. I loved those boots but they are way past theire sell-by date.

it was perm-agile "flexible" epoxy. it lasted about a week or two before it started to crack along the flex lines. It hasn't flaked off but it's no longer an intact surface. :lol_hitti

I'll have to go look for them and post a pic.
 

Patz

Active member
Joined
May 31, 2008
Messages
32
Location
Norway
I have some leftover epoxy from my floor that needs to be used before it gets too old. I'm planning on painting my 4-post lift with it in the near future.

Wouldn't it be cool with a "seamless" transfer from the floor to the lift? :rolleyes:
 
Last edited:
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Richard Givan

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 26, 2008
Messages
230
Location
Richmond, KY
I've eaten in a number of restaurants having some or other version of wood tables (usually with parquet tops, herringbones, etc.) covered with a thick slab of epoxy. You don't even have to smooth the top much, just mix the epoxy and flood it on, making some provision to keep it from running off the sides.

I really don't think it would be great for a countertop, though. I've used the stuff making a cedar-strip canoe, and, for all its reputation for toughness, it's not very resistant to scratches or heat--conditions likely to occur on countertops. If it were me, I'd prefer a nicely planed and sanded wood top finished with Watco Danish oil, or the like. Sure, it's not completely waterproof, but you should recognize it's weaknesses and treat it accordingly. When it gets a little beat up, it's easy enough to resand and finish.
 
OP
P

phy6

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 18, 2007
Messages
275
Location
Maryland, It's a Wet Heat.
Thanks for the comments. So far I've had "ok" luck with rolling Rustoleum onto metal shelves and shop tools. But they still seem easy to scratch, especially shelves. So that's why I am hoping epoxy would no scratch through.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom