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Refinishing a table saw top (cast iron)?

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A_Pmech

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1) Spray the table with WD-40

2) Rub it down with a maroon Scotch Brite pad

3) Wipe off the residue with a paper towel and spray on more WD-40

4) Repeat until the table is shiny and free of rust.

5) Rub on eight coats of Johnson's Paste Wax, allowing to dry ten minutes between coats. Buff out with a towel. Johnson's Paste wax is the same stuff used on wood floors, available at most home centers.

Re-wax once a month for light use, or every third day in production.

:thumbup:
 
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SteveU

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wouldn't there be a possibility of the wax contaminating the wood?............not a woodworker, just curious:headscrat

The Johnson's is ok, just be sure not to use anything with silicon in it. I have used Amsoil HD metal protector for all winter but it has to be removed before using as it dries to a hard waxy film.
 

A_Pmech

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wouldn't there be a possibility of the wax contaminating the wood?............not a woodworker, just curious:headscrat

No. Not once it's dry. The wax will not affect finishing operations. In fact, many finishes have the same type of wax or the mineral spirits vehicle as an ingredient.
 

back2class

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I have restored a rusty Delta Unisaw tablesaw. Opbital sander with 200 grit paper and plenty of water. Comes better than new. Finish with a good carnuba wax. That simple and superb results.
 
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rsanter

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if you have a belt sander you can get a scotch brite type belt for it
it will leave a really nice finish

bob
 
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alkemyst

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not looking to buff the top out..."what if you get a scratch you want to remove" was more my angle.
 

GSteg

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Thanks for the tips guys. I have a Craftsman table saw from the early 1960s and the table is sort of rusted, otherwise it works perfectly.
 

A_Pmech

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Go to www.owwm.com to see how the pro's do it!

A Scotch Brite hand pad, WD-40, and Johnson's Paste Wax is how we do it. :)

Others love Top Cote or similar stuff, but I've never liked the surface it leaves. Plain old paste floor wax leaves a smoother surface that glides better. As far as re-coating, I've run 7 miles of moulding though a shaper with only one re-coat to keep the Maple fence from sticking.

Also, if you have a Biesemeyer saw fence, wax the guide bar! It makes a big difference in smoothness and doesn't affect clamping.
 
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