Reframing shed door opening

[Fyrme]

I'm getting prepared for a shed make over and installing a over head door is in the plans. I currently have double swing 3'-0" doors. I will be installing a 7'x8' overhead door that uses two rail springs rather than the large single spring. My question is, based on this pic, how would I reframe the header? Currently it measures roughly 86" to the bottom of the double top plate and a little over 80" to the bottom of the 2x6 header. So, do I leave it as is, and just open it up wider, or is there a solution to gaining the extra vertical inches? If I leave it, obviously the door will stick up above the frame.

Thanks for the input.
Chad

 

[bczygan]

It doesn't look like there is anything load bearing in that end wall.

Find out the RO (Rough opening) required for your new door (Width and height).

Of course, you will need a new header to span the increased size of the opening. The length of the new header will be the RO width plus 3". It will be somewhere around 7' 3"or a little more.

Next you need to size the header. You have 2 choices, dimensional lumber and an LVL. Dimensional lumber will be deeper for the same span and load. So if you run out of height, use an LVL. Actually it will be a pair of dimensional boards with a 1.2" plywood spacer or a pair of LVL's, to give you the 3 1/2" width of your header beam (To match the wall thickness).

You will need 2-2x8's for the header, and since an LVL would be deeper, dimensional lumber will do fine. If you want to make sure it is plenty stiff for less deflection, use Doug Fir or SYP.

Once the header is chosen, simply add that depth (7 1/4") to the RO height and you know where the top pf the header will be.

Now, since there is no real weight on that existing header, simply take a circular saw and set the depth to the sheathing thickness and cut a new opening to match the RO height and width. Don't worry about it. The existing wall will support itself.

Take a sawsall and cut the existing framing back enough to allow insertion of the new studs, jack studs and header. This will be higher and wider than the rough opening or new sheathing cut line.

Next, remove the existing doors, sheathing, framing and header that you have cut out.

Then install new studs and jack studs. Toenail into the existing framing.
Lift the new header into place and toenail and then face nail through the sheathing.

You are now ready to install any misc. framing needed for the new OH door and to install the door itself.

 

[Fyrme]

I think there may be some confusion. The width of the door is 8', current RO is 72" wide by 80" tall. the width is no big deal. The new header will span the new width, but in order to have that 2x6header in there, my vertical opening will have to be about 4.5" shorter than my vertical door dimensions of 7'. I suppose I can deal with that if need be.

 

[bczygan]

First, you need 2x8's for the header. 2x6's won't do for that span.

Second, you move the location of the new header up as far as is required by the new door R.O. Cut out the existing double top plates to make room for the header. Put a top plate on top of the header if you like to tie the header into the wall framing. Or just let the existing double top plate end into the ends of the header on either side. Us a metal plate to tie them together. Sheathing will tie them together on the outside.

Lay it out on the wall to see if you have enough height, at that width, to not impinge on the rafters.
Just eyeballing it, you look OK.