Refrig Air Dryer for Compressor, Too Good to be True?

[MichaelJM]

New member here and I hope this entry is going into the correct slot. I have just treated myself to a new compressor (Champion 5hp, 2 stage) and it produces as much water as air which is expected in Oregon during the summer. I have been looking at the many ways of reducing the water (running pipe up and down and around with many drains, installing a HF dryer, installing Tsunami dryers for mega bucks, and any number of desiccant dryers systems and so on). Has anyone used the JT Series compressed air dryers from Air Options, a USA company? They are only appropriate for 2 stage units but they are reasonable ($300 to $400) and are a set it and forget it system, especially if you include the auto drain option. Too good to be true???

 

[dogdog]

I think this was discuss topic some time ago.....
this thing requires a pressure drop of 20 to 30 psi or something to cool the air.

 

[dogdog]

These two thread might of be interest for you.... I wanted to build one when I get my larger compressor.....

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=233292&highlight=franzinator

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=294030&highlight=franzinator

 

[HOTFR8]

Welcome to the GJ. Looks like you have some answers.

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

New member here and I hope this entry is going into the correct slot. I have just treated myself to a new compressor (Champion 5hp, 2 stage) and it produces as much water as air which is expected in Oregon during the summer. I have been looking at the many ways of reducing the water (running pipe up and down and around with many drains, installing a HF dryer, installing Tsunami dryers for mega bucks, and any number of desiccant dryers systems and so on). Has anyone used the JT Series compressed air dryers from Air Options, a USA company? They are only appropriate for 2 stage units but they are reasonable ($300 to $400) and are a set it and forget it system, especially if you include the auto drain option. Too good to be true???

Try starting out with a belt guard mounted air cooled aftercooler and an auto drain on your receiver. I have this set-up on my Quincy QR325, used in my business and it functions great. I also have a large Ingersoll-Rand element style water trap w/ filter (condition) gage and I honestly have never had the gage move out of the 'green' zone. I have a Bekomat zero-loss condensate drain on my 120 gal. receiver which I hear cycle once or twice a day. Our CNC machines have their own dedicated condensate filters which I've never seen produce any condensate, so I know my system is doing it's job.

 

[MichaelJM]

Thanks for the feedback gentlemen!

 

[MichaelJM]

Tool Tyrant: Your system sounds perfect. Is your aftercooler a junk yard radiator salvage or something special? Also where is the Bekomat located in your piping run? Does it have to be below the aftercooler or can it be anywhere convenient? I want to run all of the auto drain devices into a line that will be running over the doorway and then outside. Champion says the auto drain tube from the compressor will work fine. (I forgot to plumb a drain into the mechanical room in my new shop. One bucket overflowed and had a mess. Must remember to dump these things or why not simply run a line overhead and outside and forget about it? Cannot do anything in the concrete floor due to the radiant heat system. Radiant floor heat, no draft, no open flame, nothing but 65 degrees everyday of the year. Don't be jealous!)

 

[The Tool Tyrant]

Tool Tyrant: Your system sounds perfect. Is your aftercooler a junk yard radiator salvage or something special? Also where is the Bekomat located in your piping run? Does it have to be below the aftercooler or can it be anywhere convenient? I want to run all of the auto drain devices into a line that will be running over the doorway and then outside. Champion says the auto drain tube from the compressor will work fine. (I forgot to plumb a drain into the mechanical room in my new shop. One bucket overflowed and had a mess. Must remember to dump these things or why not simply run a line overhead and outside and forget about it? Cannot do anything in the concrete floor due to the radiant heat system. Radiant floor heat, no draft, no open flame, nothing but 65 degrees everyday of the year. Don't be jealous!)

The after cooler is a purpose manufactured heat-exchanger, made by AKG. Here is a link to it at Zoro... https://www.zoro.com/akg-air-cooled-aftercooler-max-hp-10-35-cfm-c-1835bg/i/G1180961/
Wait for on of their 25% off sales and save $50.00.

The Bekomat is attached to the 1/2" receiver condensate drain pipe. My shop is a tilt-up building, so I roto-hammered a hole through the wall and ran the drain to dump outside. The auto-drain on the Champions drain at the end of each run cycle whereas the Bekomat uses a float system which is housed inside it's condensate collection reservoir. I know with the Bekomat the maximum rise of the condensate drain line can not exceed 17'. You may want to check on the maximum rise for the Champion drain.

Jealous...pfff...we have full AC and HEAT in the shop...AND we're in San Diego!