Refrigerator question - new or used?

[MN4x4]

When I finish my shop remodel (hopefully by fall) I need to buy a refrigerator. I am well aware that the new models are more efficient than the MUCH older ones, but I am not sure exactly where the crossover point is where the cost of a new model will pay for itself in energy savings over an older - but not ancient - model.

For instance, let's say I can buy a 7 year old model for $200 from Craigslist. I can buy the same brand and size (slightly restyled, of course) brand new for $700. My 'savings' on the used one is $500 - until I plug it in, at least.

If I plan to keep my refrigerator for 10 years, and assume no maintenance costs, am I better off buying the new one or the used one. Has efficiency changed so much in the last 7 years that the used one would eat up the $500 savings over 10 years?

I can find LOTS of opinions on this question, but I'm looking for some FACTS. Anybody got any?

 

[mbatarga]

Source:
http://michaelbluejay.com/electricity/refrigerators.html


"A 1986-era 18 c.f. fridge uses 1400 kWh a year, while a modern energy-efficient model uses only 350 kWh -- a whopping 75% reduction. At 15¢ kWh, trading in a pre-1986 fridge for a new efficient one would save about $158 a year in electricity costs."

This is an extreme view (1986 model) - the site has a table comparing more recent models, which reflects a savings of only $18/year for a new compared to a 2001 model.

 

[MN4x4]

That's exactly what I was looking for but couldn't find. Basically what I see here are two clear messages:

1. Forget about anything built before 2001, and

2. Buying an Energy Star model built in 2001-2004 or later will cost you - at most - $18 per year more to operate than a 2010 model.

Thanks!

 

[sselander]

any scratch n dent places near you?

The Sears outlets here (CT) have tons of discontinued and scratch n dent fridges.

Usually you can find one with the scratch facing the wall.

When we first moved to our house, it had a fridge from 1962 still working in the basement.

 

[larry_g]

I second the scratch n dent. Lowes here locally has a good SnD section. It sounds like you have months to shop and can spring when necessary.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[bushpilot]

any refrigerator placed in a garage is probably gonna run MORE than one in the house !

that said - I DONT care....the fridge on the left cost me NOTHING <given to me by a friend> all i did was add the obvious accessories !

 

[ejm1961Tbird]

Bushpilot - I want to come hang out in your garage!

 

[Scout Driver]

If you are at an estate auction, you may luck out and get a fridge for $50 or so on a good day. It may be a little older, but you can't beat the initial cost.

Scott

 

[Mavawreck]

I have a hard time understanding how a fridge that costs 'nothing' but needs $300.00 a year in electricity is a better deal than one that costs $500.00 or less and takes only $80.00 a year to operate. By the third year, you're already saving money.

Edit+ which has already been stated about with a very useful link to why he should purchase a newer fridge.

 

[rickairmedic]

There is efficient and then there is just plain KEWL . I will take Kewl factor for my shop over being GREEN anyday .

http://www.antiquevintageappliances.com/refrigerator25.html


Rick

 

[Mavawreck]

There is efficient and then there is just plain KEWL . I will take Kewl factor for my shop over being GREEN anyday .

http://www.antiquevintageappliances.com/refrigerator25.html


Rick

I guess it all depends on where you want your money to go, I like mine somewhere it can hang out with its friends and multiply like bunnies I'm sure the utilities will appreciate and award your dedication.

 

[rickairmedic]

I guess it all depends on where you want your money to go, I like mine somewhere it can hang out with its friends and multiply like bunnies I'm sure the utilities will appreciate and award your dedication.

Technically when I get done rebuilding my 1957 Gibson refrigerator it will have better insulation than it did when it was new and will have a modern compressor and other components in it so it should be close to as efficient as a new fridge and still look Kewl compared to the standard White box thats in the kitchen .


Rick

 

[66HertzClone]

You need to do some research before you buy a new one. I did and regret it, many of the energy efficient models will not work well if at all when the ambient temp falls below a certain point. In my unheated garage here in NJ that happens nearly all winter long. The thing never runs, I contacted the manufacturer and they told me it was not recommended for garage use. So, I'm stuck with it, we don't put any meat or dairy in it during the winter months. I checked to see if there was an accessory heater that wold fool it into working and found nothing.

 

[MN4x4]

The Calculator at the top right of the page provided by 'mbatarga' is a lot of fun.

Let's say you found a refrigerator that was made in 1986 and cost you nothing. Let's say you also knew of an energy star model made in 2002 that you could buy for $300. Your KWH rate is 12¢. Which should you get? The calculator says:

Refrigerator Savings Calculator
Current fridge 1986 20 cu ft
New fridge 2001-2004 20 cu ft
New fridge cost $300
Salvage value of old fridge $0
Efficiency rebate ? $0
Electricity rate 12¢ per KWH
Savings per year
$127
Payback time
2.4 years

So, if you plan to keep the fridge for more than 2.4 years, you're money ahead BUYING the newer one and passing on the freebie! And this assumes that energy prices don't go up...which I would not count on. Without this website I would not have known this information.

I am now beginning my search for a 2002 or newer energy star refrigerator for my shop, all thanks to this site. Yes, I will check local appliance outlets as well.

 

[bushpilot]

the ASSUMPTION is that the used 300 dollar refrigerator functions FLAWLESSLY til the pay back PERIOD (2.4yrs)....and thats just the BREAK EVEN POINT !

I dont like waiting 2.4yrs for a return on MY INVESTMENTS <if that were a stock i'd cut my losses, which are tax deductible btw, and SELL > !

at best a FREE refrigerator means youre out of pocket ZERO - you could invest money in repairs in that and STILL be ahead <possibly> !

a refrigerator is NOT an investment ! the cost of beer exceed the cost electricity to run the thing for a year ! the VALUE of a good cold beer, from my garage fridge is PRICELESS !

 

[pprince]

1994 is the cut over year for refrigerators.

As of Jan 1 this year Ontario has outlawed all frig's made before 1994 in rentals if the tenant pays for electricity.

 

[BHR4CE1]

Bushpilot...what's the milk for?

 

[bushpilot]

1994 is the cut over year for refrigerators.

As of Jan 1 this year Ontario has outlawed all frig's made before 1994 in rentals if the tenant pays for electricity.

who buys the NEW fridge ?? Oh i know...the RENTER - cause NOTHING is FREE !
who pays for all the OLD fridges in the land fill...oh i know THE RENTER <tax payer> - cause NOTHING is FREE !

whats the SCIENTIFIC electrical savings for your country ???

sheesh TYPICAL bureaucraps trying to save the tax payer from themselves !

Bushpilot...what's the milk for?

other than coffee, cereal, breakfast, white russians - its for when the HOUSE fridge is FULL - what do you use milk for ?

 

[Mavawreck]

In few years when smart monitoring technology is standard, these debates will be irrelevant when you can physically see how much this is costing you and do the math for yourself.

 

[djjsr]

Unless you need a full size refrigerator, check into the compact 4.5 cu. ft. models. They're cheap and don't use near the power of a full size. They may not be built for the long haul but I know a guy that's had one in his unheated garage for 7 or 8 years and it still works fine.

 

[PDACPA]

I had a client tell me when he tossed the old garage fridge (he had replaced the kitchen one a few years back with a new stainless one) that his electric bill dropped $90 a month.

I have the small dorm room size one in my garage. Holds beers and waters and nothing else. Works great, but have no clue as to the cost. I have had it at least 8 years.

 

[M Fan]

Something else to consider. If you will be using the freezer in the garage as overflow for the one in the house and you do not keep your garage heated, you may find that in the winter time, the freezer isn't keeping your prized steaks or salmon as cold as you would like. Most fridges have only one thermostat in the fridge compartment and in the winter time, because the fridge compartment stays cold enough, the compressor rarely runs. I noticed this on ours here in Oklahoma, we kept ice cream in the garage freezer and during winter, the ice cream would get really soft and actually show signs of melting.

I sold the old fridge and bought a new Samsung model that has seperate cooling systems for the freezer and fridge portions. It worked much better this past winter. Gladiator fridges I think have this same feature as well as some others. Another good option is Fridgidair and Kenmore have some fridge only and matching freezer only units too.

 

[mbatarga]

A consideration - keep in mind the "energy star" rating is basically self reported. The EPA bases their grant of the rating on the manufacturers' provided information. I'd refer to independent sources (consumer reports?) for data/information in comparing models for purchase.

Links:
http://www.nytimes.com/2010/03/26/science/earth/26star.html

http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/...-lost-some-luster/overview/energy-star-ov.htm

 

[octavio3311]

many of the energy efficient models will not work well if at all when the ambient temp falls below a certain point. In my unheated garage here in NJ that happens nearly all winter long. The thing never runs

Same here. It turns itself off in every mid November and came back on last week. Oh well!

 

[Cobra6]

refrigerators are designed to operate at or around room temperature (67-77 degrees). Ironically, refrigerators do much better with warmer temperatures, than they do colder temperatures.

So lets say the ambient temperature has been around 25 degrees for some time. This would mean that the temperature in both sections would be close to 25 degrees. 25 degrees is too cold for the fresh food section and food will start to freeze. 25 degrees is not cold enough for the freezer and things will start to thaw.

Garage refrigerators fair better in high ambient temperatures than low ambient temperatures but they still have problems. When the temperature gets up around 90 degrees it will never or hardly ever cut off. This is due to the fact that it is working very hard the keep the fresh food section at optimal temperature. On refrigerators with mechanical controls you can help this problem by turning the freezer section down. This will allow more airflow into the fresh food section and turn the refrigerator off sooner and still maintain a fairly good temperature in both sections. On refrigerators with electronic controls there is not much you can do.

So if they run continually, you will not save any money - unless you spend the $$$ to cool your garage, and then you will not save money either.

All that being said, I would just buy a cheap used fridge because you are not going to realize any cost savings on a new one - unless you get something like this -
http://www.gladiatorgarageworks.com...ryId=699&activeCategory=0&activeSubCategory=5

$1200 or so - but built for the garage.

 

[Plump]

You need to do some research before you buy a new one. I did and regret it, many of the energy efficient models will not work well if at all when the ambient temp falls below a certain point. In my unheated garage here in NJ that happens nearly all winter long. The thing never runs, I contacted the manufacturer and they told me it was not recommended for garage use. So, I'm stuck with it, we don't put any meat or dairy in it during the winter months. I checked to see if there was an accessory heater that wold fool it into working and found nothing.

I would definitely second this! My newer fridge can't hold ice (yes, ice) when the temperature goes below 20 degrees F or so. I think that the frost-free fridges also **** in cold weather. The compressors and thermostats can't handle it.

My 1970's kegerator keeps clicking along and works perfectly in any temperature. It could also stand in as a bunker when they come for me.

 

[PCO6]

Bushpilot...what's the milk for?

It's for drinking AFTER welding galvanized metal.

 

[PCO6]

... sheesh TYPICAL bureaucraps trying to save the tax payer from themselves !

Our Premier is affectionately known as "Premier Dad" and that's exactly what he is trying to do.

 

[REAL HOT SCHITT]

Get one of those double glazed glass front chillers that are used in gas stations or fast food outlets, they look nice when a blue or red colored flouro is put in. The downside is you will have to keep tidy all the time as people can see thru glass and the mess beyond.

Google up "skope industries" ....chillers, they are made here and exported worldwide

 

[jimini]

Never really thought of my little fridge as a energy burner. I searched for some time before I found this little GE, it's been 18 years now and it just keeps on cooling. If I didn't have this I would probably have an old coke cooler in here, and I do have a few of those in the basement. (not pluged in)
If I had a new one, I would have to hide it......
Jim

 

[rickairmedic]

Jim I could not agree more . I dont want the same crappy fridge my neighbor has in her garage . I want a kewl classic piece of american history in mine ( with new modern guts ) . I have a 1957 Gibson currently and have bee on the lookout for a mid 50's Philco V handle like this one for a couple of years now . I will find one ( I can afford ) :d.


http://www.antiquevintageappliances.com/refrigerator25.html


Rick

 

[NUTTSGT]

Garage fridge ? What I chose would have nothing to do with it's efficency. If I wanted a small mini-fridge, like I have now, I'd buy new.

If I wanted a full size fridge, I'd score points with the wife. Buy her a new for the kitchen and move the old one out in the garage.