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Refurbing ratchets and breaker bars

rick carpenter

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Jan 20, 2011
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Huntsville, East Texas
Got some garage sale tools last weekend, pics posted already in "Weekend score". I tore down the 1/2" CM 43797 RH ratchet today. Acetone/trans fluid soak, solvent soak, and heat got the ratcheting mechanism loose but the retaining ring is toast. The ball and spring on the square drive are stuck in, whether rusted or busted. The mechanism is soaking in solvent now, its ball and spring are good. The square drive balls and springs on the two speed handles I got, 3/8" and 1/2", will operate but not crisply. What is the fix for this if the springs are still good enough?

They all have fair to bad surface rust in places. Can I drop them into electrolysis or citric acid and not eat away the springs? Will electrolysis remove the chrome plating? Would citric acid be better (just retain what chrome I have and live with patina/worn away chrome in the bad places)? The ratchet will be a beater because I have a nice shiny one but the speed handles I hope to convert to users.
 
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montanafordman

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Meridian, ID
From what I understand, using electrolysis on plated metals creates some EXTREMELY toxic gasses and or waste. :shocking: Might want to look into that before you think of that route. I would suggest evaporust.
 

rusty65

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Pekin,IL
I usually just spray pb blaster and then insert it in a vise and open and close the vise so it compresses the spring and helps clean the crude out.
 

cmandp

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Dec 22, 2011
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New Jersey
When I've run into this problem I usually just get some oil in there and work the ball and spring with a pair of pliers. Probably will never be like new again, but it will be usable.
 

Outlawmws

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The Badlands
DON'T E tank plated parts or tools, you will take he plating off, and generate toxic waste.

Citric Acid or vinegar will also damage the plating...

For the finished plating, I use SOS (NOT Brillo) pads or 0000 steel wool and oil. won't scratch and does a nice job on the rusted plating.

For the innards I'd think Evaporust if its really bad, but a simple hand wire brushing with a small fine wire brush and oil should also do the trick.
 
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Wi Fire 10

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Jan 12, 2012
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Appleton, Wi
Search rust removal with molasses. it is completely harmless to the chrome, the environment, and you. it will give better results that electrolysis.
 
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R

rick carpenter

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Huntsville, East Texas
Bought it broke?

I bought it rusted solid. It was basically a club. It's the left one, the other is a Western Auto 3/8.

Looks like electrolysis is out for sure! I've used steel wool/wet-and-dry fine sandpaper and wd40, that is some slow and not very satisfactory going. I guess I'll try molasses next. Thanks y'all.
 

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Rickster

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SE PA
I would recommend soaking it in trans fluid. Whenever I get a ratchet that's stuck or sticky I soak it in Transmission fluid for a week or so and take it out and work it every few days.
 

Kracin

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Mar 25, 2013
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Omaha, NE
I would recommend soaking it in trans fluid. Whenever I get a ratchet that's stuck or sticky I soak it in Transmission fluid for a week or so and take it out and work it every few days.

you could try this.

soaking pistons in trans fluid is a little known secret to cleaning everything up to like-new condition without damaging anything.
 
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rick carpenter

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Huntsville, East Texas
I got the ball and spring in the drive working OK today, with surprisingly good spring strength. The teeth in the head and in the pawls are sharp. The retaining clip is toast, should be a simple fix tho.

Now I'm on to trying to remove the surface rust, so into some Evaporust or the molasses mix it all will go.
 
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