Dagny
Well-known member
Large shop 10 hp compressor. Should a regulator be installed at the compressor or at one or more of the outlets around the shop 99.9 percent of use will be 1/2 3/4 and 1 in. impacts.
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regulator or not
- Thread starter Dagny
- Start date
plinker
Well-known member
Depends on the max psi of the compressor. At home, mine tops out at 130psi, so I dont bother to adjust it unless I need to limit the air flow for some reason. At work the air is about 150psi+ so I set it at 125+/- and let it go at that.
Keep in mind I have a 50' air hose attached doing anything so the air pressure will drop by the time it gets to the tool. Hence why I set the regulator at 125psi.
The regulator for the 3/4 impact I have at work may be set higher, dont remember offhand. Using 100' of hose with it is not uncommon though.
Keep in mind I have a 50' air hose attached doing anything so the air pressure will drop by the time it gets to the tool. Hence why I set the regulator at 125psi.
The regulator for the 3/4 impact I have at work may be set higher, dont remember offhand. Using 100' of hose with it is not uncommon though.
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jloehlein
Well-known member
Most impacts and air tools I've seen are rated to run at 90psi. I regulated my whole system at the compressor and then have an additional regulator to drop it down further for painting. I do wish I had installed one unregulated outlet - it would be handy for things like filling portable air tanks.
plinker
Well-known member
Pretty much everything except paint guns and some other specialty stuff is going to be about 90psi max. running pressure. Also adding hose length causes the pressure to drop from the outlet.
Guys at work will run their tools direct off shop air (150-175psi )and all it really does is accelerate wear to the tool(s) and worse given the amount of moisture in the airline's.
Guys at work will run their tools direct off shop air (150-175psi )and all it really does is accelerate wear to the tool(s) and worse given the amount of moisture in the airline's.
It should be installed before the hose reel
And definitely install one, for something like a nailer you don't want it shooting at 130 psi for a while and another at 100 just before kicking on.
It could have inconsistent results.
And definitely install one, for something like a nailer you don't want it shooting at 130 psi for a while and another at 100 just before kicking on.
It could have inconsistent results.
If you have a compressor that's capable of 180, you will need a regulator to get down to 90 psi with the tool running. That will probably be 120 or so with no usage.
Since most compressors are outside the working area, it's a little more convenient to mount one just before the hose. Occasionally I will turn the regulator down for spraying paint, cleaning carbs, etc. Additionally, if you have multiple work stations, it's nice to just turn one regulator down without affecting the rest of the system.
Since most compressors are outside the working area, it's a little more convenient to mount one just before the hose. Occasionally I will turn the regulator down for spraying paint, cleaning carbs, etc. Additionally, if you have multiple work stations, it's nice to just turn one regulator down without affecting the rest of the system.
OccupantRJ
Well-known member
I just have a regulator and dryer assembly that I snap into whatever air supply port or hose I am using. It has a hook attached to allow it to be hung from an air outlet when not needed. If I am painting something outside, I hang it on a sawhorse near the work.
JJThrasher
Well-known member
I wouldn't regulate down a 1" gun. When that comes out I want power. If it breaks, it breaks I'll buy another. Some of the other stuff I use a regulator on 3/8s guns, ratchets, ect where I don't really need much power.
lakeroadster
Well-known member
Both.
I have one at the compressor, and than at each drop that needs yet a lower pressure.
I have one at the compressor, and than at each drop that needs yet a lower pressure.
bsaint
Well-known member
From an engineering standpoint, you should always limit the pressure to be at the operating pressure of the tool. The key is if you are running a 1" impact, to buy a large enough flow capacity pressure regulator and large enough piping not to restrict air flow and in a sense restricting power to the tool.
If you only had a 10 amp breaker, you wouldn't run something rated at 15a 120v at 220v so you only pull 7.5a. It wasn't designed for it. The same is with air tools. If you can't get your cfm @ operating pressure, you should NOT drive up the pressure to compensate. Run larger piping.
If you only had a 10 amp breaker, you wouldn't run something rated at 15a 120v at 220v so you only pull 7.5a. It wasn't designed for it. The same is with air tools. If you can't get your cfm @ operating pressure, you should NOT drive up the pressure to compensate. Run larger piping.
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plinker
Well-known member
From an engineering standpoint, you should always limit the pressure to be at the operating pressure of the tool. The key is if you are running a 1" impact, to buy a large enough flow capacity pressure regulator and large enough piping not to restrict air flow and in a sense restricting power to the tool.
If you only had a 10 amp breaker, you wouldn't run something rated at 15a 120v at 220v so you only pull 7.5a. It wasn't designed for it. The same is with air tools. If you can't get your cfm @ operating pressure, you should NOT drive up the pressure to compensate. Run larger piping.
I agree. What I would do is have the regulator(s) at point of use. The only thing I'd have right off the compressor is a shut off valve.
^ ^ ^ This. OP with your larger compressor and high-demand tools, it makes no sense to regulate down your airline system.
Keep compressor and airline system at HIGH pressure and only regulate down at point-of-use for drops running tools that can't handle the high pressure.
If need be, setup a portable regulator that moves around to drops where lower pressure is appropriate.
Keep compressor and airline system at HIGH pressure and only regulate down at point-of-use for drops running tools that can't handle the high pressure.
If need be, setup a portable regulator that moves around to drops where lower pressure is appropriate.
ovrrdrive
Well-known member
Remember to measure the pressure drop at the end of the hose at least once. Most tools are designed to run around 90psi at the tool. I find I need to run about 125 at the regulator ( at the tank outlet) to maintain 90psi at the end of the hose while the tool is activated.
Heavy Metal Doctor
Well-known member
Has anyone else ever waited for a compressor to kick on and then off to get a stubborn nut off
I do it all the time when running a 1"drive impact gun -- I do it some for removal, but even more going back together. The specific job requires 1800 FT/LB of torque, so my routine is tighten till the compressor kicks on, wait for it to kick off, then hit it again.....my last round is when the nut no longer turns at all on a fresh charge of air.
WhiffySpark
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 22, 2009
- Messages
- 6,252
Any budget regulator recommendations? I'm planning to do a rapid or pex setup as well
bobcatdan
Well-known member
Unless you have a requirement for regulated air, I'd install it by a dedicated outlet if you do. Most shops I have worked at never regulated the shop air so I have been spoiled by running impacts at 175 psi. Impacts at 90 psi are gutless pigs.
plinker
Well-known member
I have been buying closeout/over stock ARO/Amflo/Wilkerson/Norgern/Parker models off ebay that meet the criteria I want, the last two filter-regulators were ARO for about 20$ each.
I have also found a couple at the local junkyard that only needed a new element and some cleaning.
I have also found a couple at the local junkyard that only needed a new element and some cleaning.
Some may disagree, but since you're asking for opinions:
1) Regulate downstream at point(s) of use, not at compressor.
2) Size regulators for SCFM of largest tool to be used at each drop
3) Size piping for total use
4) Set regulators for 90psig under load. Do not overpressurize. More pressure may mean more power, along with damage and/or accelerated wear. The pressure rating on tools is not arbitrary. Just because you CAN run at a higher pressure doesn't mean you SHOULD. It's analogous to using a cheater bar on a ratchet because you don't want to grab a long breaker bar.
1) Regulate downstream at point(s) of use, not at compressor.
2) Size regulators for SCFM of largest tool to be used at each drop
3) Size piping for total use
4) Set regulators for 90psig under load. Do not overpressurize. More pressure may mean more power, along with damage and/or accelerated wear. The pressure rating on tools is not arbitrary. Just because you CAN run at a higher pressure doesn't mean you SHOULD. It's analogous to using a cheater bar on a ratchet because you don't want to grab a long breaker bar.
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TK-421
Well-known member
I'd run regulators at point of use and not at the compressor.
Depending on how much pressure ur compressor makes, if its 150 or less I wouldnt regulate it down for impacts. Also depends how much run you have from tank to impact. If you have 50 foot of hard line and then 100 foot of hose on a hose reel, your gonna have some substantial pressure drop.
bsaint
Well-known member
I guess there is two trains of thought as too regulate at point of use or the whole system. I prefer to regulate the whole system. To buy a quality regular for each drop is expensive. People also love to touch stuff especially if it has an adjustment. Air tools all have different CFM requirements. There is also lower stored energy in my piping system in case of puncture. The only advantage I can think of for regulating at point of use is you can use smaller piping around the shop. Or a smaller air hose if you're regulating at the tool.
bigredmf
Well-known member
Yes two trains the proper way to do things and the improper.
If you do not regulate at the compressor you loose some of the heat dissipating characteristics of holding air in your reservoir for a longer amount of time.
Then with regulators at each drop to fine tune pressure based on its particular application.
Torque sticks on impacts are more repeatable when the impact is regulated plus their torque rating is typically based on 90 psi.
Nail guns can be set in a way they set nails and a similar depth.
Also the safety aspect of disconnecting quick connects. They are then easier to disconnect and have less hose whip. May not be a concern with 1/4 or 3/8 QC connections but with a 1/2 or 3/4 hose you can get a ton of whip.
In the safety arena a hose failure at 175 psi is a much bigger issue than at lower pressure.
I am sure someone will disagree but the above is proper, safer and will save electricity.
Thank you
Red
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
If you do not regulate at the compressor you loose some of the heat dissipating characteristics of holding air in your reservoir for a longer amount of time.
Then with regulators at each drop to fine tune pressure based on its particular application.
Torque sticks on impacts are more repeatable when the impact is regulated plus their torque rating is typically based on 90 psi.
Nail guns can be set in a way they set nails and a similar depth.
Also the safety aspect of disconnecting quick connects. They are then easier to disconnect and have less hose whip. May not be a concern with 1/4 or 3/8 QC connections but with a 1/2 or 3/4 hose you can get a ton of whip.
In the safety arena a hose failure at 175 psi is a much bigger issue than at lower pressure.
I am sure someone will disagree but the above is proper, safer and will save electricity.
Thank you
Red
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk