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Relocating a 2-post lift

wbrian63

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Joined
Mar 31, 2010
Messages
843
Location
Houston, TX
Rotary model SP0A7.

I have the installation manuals, but before it can be installed, it has to be "de-installed"

Other than common-sense items like "don't get squished", I need suggestions on how properly disconnect the hydraulic hoses, etc and drain the system to avoid a huge mess.

Also, suggestions on what to service while the lift is disassembled would also be appreciated.

And finally, a question about the sleeve anchors that are required to install the unit - are there different grades of anchors like there are grades of bolts? If so, do I need a specific grade? (The installation manual only references "the anchors that came with your lift").

Thanks and regards.
 
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nehog

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Jan 2, 2010
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7,935
Location
Jaffrey, NH
Fully lower lift. Remove lines from the pump, and cap both pump and lines with proper caps (not plastic covers). Have a bag of 'oil absorb' (cat litter) on hand just in case.

Be careful.

Disassemble in reverse order of assembly. Be careful to make sure the power is shut off before disconnecting power.
 
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wbrian63

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Joined
Mar 31, 2010
Messages
843
Location
Houston, TX
OK - I'll get the sizes and visit a hydraulics shop to get a cap (or caps) for the pump outlet and two plugs for the hoses.

I think the hardest part is going to be laying the columns down without crushing ourselves in the process.

I've got an idea for a frame to allow us to lower the columns safely, and then use the same fixture to stand them back up in the new spot.

Thanks for the suggestions.
 

rickycobra

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Sep 9, 2010
Messages
292
Make sure you have extra help when lowering everything. Also place to empty the fluid from the lift.
 

milner351

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Sep 14, 2010
Messages
205
Location
SE Michigan
I installed my two post with help from a couple of friends, and a forklift.

Be VERY careful with the columns, we went to unload the columns off my trailer with a friends small tractor with a bucket and a chain.... the rear tractor tires started lifting off the ground - and we realized we'd have to lift the columns one at a time!

I would look into renting a small fork lift for the time period of the tear down and install.
 
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brownbagg

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Mar 20, 2006
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5,208
the posts are not really heavy, all the weights on the bottom. one man and a trailer can do it easy
 

CarCrafter

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Jul 13, 2009
Messages
544
Location
Somewhere in the rust belt
I have the same exact lift and the take down is a piece of cake. It shouldn't take you more than an hour or so. The most important part is to be CAREFUL. If you can con some muscle into maneuvering, this will make the job a whole lot easier. Just make sure you issue the beer AFTER the process, not during or before. You really don't need to cap the lines, you'll lose minimal fluid and you can top off with ATF if you lost any. I've yet to add any fluid since purchasing my lift, that was from making the journey home, setting up in my garage, taking it down and finally installing it in my shop a couple of months ago.

I would start by raising the lift up to remove the cotter pins from underneath the carriage. It wouldn't hurt if you soaked this area with penetrating oil the night before. Now would also be a good time to lube everything so you won't have to perform maintenance when your lift is up and running. There really is no need for a forklift. A friend and I used my engine hoist to take down and raise my lift. You can stand it up and "walk" the columns to where ever you want it to. What you'll want to start with is to turn off the circuit breaker, disconnect the power. Remove the tranquillizer cables, coil them up and tuck them into the columns themselves for storage. Do the same with the hoses. Remove the lift arms, cross bar, pump assembly, column extension. I loved my 3/8" cordless impact with this dis-assembly/ reassembly. There are a couple of holes in the column themselves that we just ran a bolt through and lifted with the engine hoist. Remove the nuts and lift in a vertical manner slowly, just high enough to clear the studs. We balanced ours fairly well and just put them on the trailer with the engine hoist. As far as anchors go, if you can wait, you can buy them on ebay for cheap or your local industrial fastener place will have them. One word of advice, check and make sure your new install location is nice and level from side to side. Rotary wants close to $300 for a shim for this particular lift. So we made ours. It is a lot easier to make a template when your lift column is laying sideways. If you do need a shim, now would be the time to have one made. Also, if you do need to use a shim to level the columns, you'll need to get longer anchors. So, make sure you do your homework before you go and buy everything. Again, be CAREFUL. Don't get crushed because you were in a rush.
 

Vicegrip

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Joined
Mar 9, 2007
Messages
1,187
Location
NoVA.
the posts are not really heavy, all the weights on the bottom. one man and a trailer can do it easy

agree. remove the power pack to help contain the hyd fluid and lower the weight. arms come off. cables come off get inspected tagged and coiled. Good time to clean and lube them. Inspect the carage and slider blocks.
 
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wbrian63

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Joined
Mar 31, 2010
Messages
843
Location
Houston, TX
Thanks for all the suggestions.

The reinstallation is going to come way after the removal. We do have some level issues there, so that will have to be assessed and dealt with. First thing is to test the new location with an anchor to make sure we can get the 200 ft/lbs torque (if I remember the # correctly) that the installation manual calls for, and that the slab is thick enough.

If not - well - we'll be having some "fun"...

Regards
 

m.james

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Joined
Sep 27, 2010
Messages
230
Thanks for all the suggestions.

The reinstallation is going to come way after the removal. We do have some level issues there, so that will have to be assessed and dealt with. First thing is to test the new location with an anchor to make sure we can get the 200 ft/lbs torque (if I remember the # correctly) that the installation manual calls for, and that the slab is thick enough.

If not - well - we'll be having some "fun"...

Regards

Good Luck. Be safe with the removal and the installation. Perhaps you could even do a how to for all of us.
 
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