Relocation of Well Tank / Control

[ringandtip]

Hello All;

Looking for input on relocating my well tank and control from and old building to a new one. The old location may still see some water usage as will the new location but the primary usage point remains unchanged at the end of the run.
All existing and new piping is the same size (1 1/4 I think) that goes down to the submersible pump (~200 FT) The added distance to the tank/control will be about 250FT with less than an additional 20FT elevation.

It looks fairly straightforward to me but I figured I'd put it out there before I start digging in case there's something I'm missing.

Thanks in advance.

 

[Boilerhouse]

See no problem with the proposal. Looks straight forward to me as well.

 

[ringandtip]

Thanks for the reply.

 

[Copymutt]

One thing left off of my set up was a blow off valve, which dumps back down the well. Should the control box fail to shut off at 60 psi, it would protect the lines, tank, home, gaage from overpressure. Been that way for 40 yrs, but still has me concerned.

 

[larry_g]

Another thing to not do is put a valve between the well head and the pressure switch. Our old system had the PS in line just before the tank isolation valve.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[ringandtip]

Great points. Much appreciated.

 

[ard]

Another thing to not do is put a valve between the well head and the pressure switch. Our old system had the PS in line just before the tank isolation valve.

lg
no neat sig line

I finally put a 2" valve in mine. Every time I worked on the pump, well head or filtration system, I would waste 200 gallons of water. This way I can throw the breaker, close the valve- retain the water in the pressure tanks for use- and work on whatever I want.

Might not be 'best practices' but I also work on my own electrical panel and don't kill myself. Ie I can be trusted to do it right...

FWIW

 

[Fatboy148]

Many years ago, my well driller came into the house and saw a ball valve before the tank and switch and about had a heart attack. The handle was not on the valve but hanging on a string in the floor joist above. His concern was the possibility of someone shutting the flow off by closing the valve with the switch still calling for water. I also place a valve between the tank tee and the gauge and the house and the tank. A few valves can make it a lot easier to work on stuff rather than having to drain it all down to do a simple repair.

As far as the question of the current pump working for your new install. If I read it correctly, you are adding both elevation and horizontal distance to the requirements that the pump has to meet. That can only really be answered by looking up the existing pump in the manufacturer's pumps flow charts to see what it will provide with the new data inserted. For that you will need to know the manufacturer, pump model number and the flow capacity of your well (you don't want to pump water out faster than the well can recover because eventually you will use up the reservoir in the casing and there will be no water to pump). Friction loss in an additional 250' and additional elevation can be a consideration.

 

[ringandtip]

Thanks for all the input.

 

[matt_i]

The other thought I had was to put a boiler drain (NPT to valve to Garden Hose Thread) somewhere down low for the purposes of draining the system. If its inside a basement and one needed to drain, having the ability to route a garden hose to a sump crock or other low point drain without simply spilling it out on the floor would be a benefit. If you use a bladder accumulator, the piping for it is usually down near the floor. Putting the pressure switch on a tee with the PS higher than the main line also helps keep it from getting plugged by corrosion, as does using brass or copper fittings. It can't keep minerals out of the water but will prevent corrosion.