Gunfighter556
Well-known member
All finished with the middle box resto. Think I am done for awhile....lol
Remline boxes, pics if you got them.
- Thread starter TheGrooveking
- Start date
TheRealZeus
Well-known member
Great save!
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TheRealZeus
Well-known member
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Gunfighter556
Well-known member
Looking awesome man!
Oldtuleguy
Well-known member
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- Nov 4, 2017
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Awesome resto!
rem line chicago 50 SN B 3321
Just got from thrift store for $100.00 works paint gone same topper as above
Any idea of the value just know it's more sturdy than a snap on topper
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Gunfighter556
Well-known member
Would need to see a picture of the entire box to know what you actually have. I would say you probably got a good deal as long as the condition is good ie no major rust.
TheRealZeus
Well-known member
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TheRealZeus
Well-known member
You got the model 1100.
TheRealZeus
Well-known member
Link 
is to gambo for full ad. Cool box, Man.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/remline-boxes-pics-if-you-got-them.52521/post-6045726
is to gambo for full ad. Cool box, Man. https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/remline-boxes-pics-if-you-got-them.52521/post-6045726
TheRealZeus
Well-known member
The year of production is behind that label, stamped into the metal, on inside of the drawer.
(My drawers are much cleaner now. Forgive the pic.
)
(My drawers are much cleaner now. Forgive the pic.
)Gunfighter556
Well-known member
Looks like the only thing missing is the top tray, Nice old box.
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TheRealZeus
Well-known member
Looks 1959 year is upside down
Cool Man. Your box was most likely manufactured in Wauconda, Illinois.
Here is the registered trademark.. Two things about it… I believe this means you got one of the first remline, line badged boxes.
Secondly, (just to be clear
) I believe this does not necessarily mean “the” first, but one from some of the production with that badge. That is cool over beers 
, BS’ing in your shop. If you wanna sell, ise that as a bullet point, but I doubt it will do little, to anyone, but a collector. I think if you clean it up you got a great keeper. It takes certain eyes 
, to appreciate certain boxes. They are built to be robust solid boxes, but as I am sure your research 
revealed….there are more SnapOn and Mac box threads.
these kids today… I tell ya.
Good morning, GJ members! I would like to get educated more about Remline toolboxes. I recently rediscovered this thread and returned couple of time looking at the boxes (great boxes and fantastic restorations here!!!)
I once in a blue moon see them for sale (usually in poor condition though). However, I like the boxes and will see if I can find some in good shape within next 1-2 years
I am interested in 7 drawer bottom box (It would be nice to find a 10 drawer bottom one or 7 drawer with 2 drawer insert, but I never saw those for sale) as well as top either 12 drawer or 6 drawer chests.
1. Can somebody tell me if the drawers have dividers or all of them are opened (it would be great to see pictures if there are dividers and somebody has extra time)
2. What colors do you use to restore the boxes?
3. How hard is to get replacement emblems? (I bet its not easy, but do they sometimes show up on e-bay) - I am speaking about older emblems with the guy on them
4. How sturdy are those boxes compared to older Snap On or Kennedy ones? (I have K200 as well as 1955 KR-56 and 1963 KRA-58B as well as 3 drawer red Kennedy roller for comparison)
Thank you in advance!!!
I once in a blue moon see them for sale (usually in poor condition though). However, I like the boxes and will see if I can find some in good shape within next 1-2 years
I am interested in 7 drawer bottom box (It would be nice to find a 10 drawer bottom one or 7 drawer with 2 drawer insert, but I never saw those for sale) as well as top either 12 drawer or 6 drawer chests.
1. Can somebody tell me if the drawers have dividers or all of them are opened (it would be great to see pictures if there are dividers and somebody has extra time)
2. What colors do you use to restore the boxes?
3. How hard is to get replacement emblems? (I bet its not easy, but do they sometimes show up on e-bay) - I am speaking about older emblems with the guy on them
4. How sturdy are those boxes compared to older Snap On or Kennedy ones? (I have K200 as well as 1955 KR-56 and 1963 KRA-58B as well as 3 drawer red Kennedy roller for comparison)
Thank you in advance!!!
TheRealZeus
Well-known member
These days Remline is a brand that sorta slips by unnoticed… they are ninjas 
to anyone other than remline fans. I believe it had its day in the sun, but lost some favor to competitor boxes.
1. Some drawers have built in fixed dividers with varying layouts, a few will have none, which all vary per model.
2.
What I did: I used rustoleum “hammered pewter,” which is much lighter than what was my goal… This was chosen, due to an extraordinarily limited availability of options, local to me. I surmise; Many of the first RemLine came out in gloss black, and later the hammers “dark gray.”
I cleaned up my chest, but if we’re to do again; I would find/try to use this;
Krylon “Hammered Matte Cast Iron”
3. I have seen a couple replacement emblems offered online here & there. Both the Logo Plates, & flagman AMD drawer handles.
4. Solid! They have a much thicker gauge steel, as compared to the newer stuff on the floor in any retail shop these days. The round corners up front on older chests do a heck of a job reinforcing the all-around sturdiness of the boxes, making them superiorly rigid. Personally, I do not see it as a fair to compare to snap-on, & Kennedy, as they are all on par with one another.
If it is that RemLine just go unnoticed over a paint schema, then that is the shopper’s loss.
More good stuff
For more in depth info and links worth bookmarking from 4Cy;
Thread 'Advertising Metal Display Co. - AMD Industries - Rem-Line - Tool Storage Systems and Displays'
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum...ine-tool-storage-systems-and-displays.507134/
I think I answered everything there.
good luck 
to anyone other than remline fans. I believe it had its day in the sun, but lost some favor to competitor boxes.1. Some drawers have built in fixed dividers with varying layouts, a few will have none, which all vary per model.
2.
What I did: I used rustoleum “hammered pewter,” which is much lighter than what was my goal… This was chosen, due to an extraordinarily limited availability of options, local to me. I surmise; Many of the first RemLine came out in gloss black, and later the hammers “dark gray.”I cleaned up my chest, but if we’re to do again; I would find/try to use this;
Krylon “Hammered Matte Cast Iron”
3. I have seen a couple replacement emblems offered online here & there. Both the Logo Plates, & flagman AMD drawer handles.
4. Solid! They have a much thicker gauge steel, as compared to the newer stuff on the floor in any retail shop these days. The round corners up front on older chests do a heck of a job reinforcing the all-around sturdiness of the boxes, making them superiorly rigid. Personally, I do not see it as a fair to compare to snap-on, & Kennedy, as they are all on par with one another.
If it is that RemLine just go unnoticed over a paint schema, then that is the shopper’s loss.More good stuff
For more in depth info and links
worth bookmarking from 4Cy;Thread 'Advertising Metal Display Co. - AMD Industries - Rem-Line - Tool Storage Systems and Displays'
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum...ine-tool-storage-systems-and-displays.507134/
I think I answered everything there.
good luck Rileysan
Well-known member
Do you have your heart set on the Remline brand or would you consider another retailer that AMD/Remline made boxes for?
The AMD-made Craftsman boxes from the 1950s are relatively common, but only come in gray. Another option is the Ward's Powr Kraft boxes from the late 50s through 1960s, which are identical to the Remline-branded boxes except for the badges and the engraved drawer handles. I feel like the Powr Kraft boxes are overlooked for no good reason, and can often be found for a song.
Brian
Thank you, TheRealZeus! Which Red color did you use?
Brian, I think I will try to go for Remline - they look interesting! I am thinking to upgrade from my 3 drawer red Kennedy bottom box to get more drawers if I find good 7-10 drawer. (though it would probably stay for some time as it holds my 1955 KR-56 on top... I think I would prefer the ones with the older Logo (with the "Man").
If I find PowrKraft with 10 drawers, I will consider it though (I also looked into Waterloo with 10 drawers, but never saw one in real life)
Brian, I think I will try to go for Remline - they look interesting! I am thinking to upgrade from my 3 drawer red Kennedy bottom box to get more drawers if I find good 7-10 drawer. (though it would probably stay for some time as it holds my 1955 KR-56 on top... I think I would prefer the ones with the older Logo (with the "Man").
If I find PowrKraft with 10 drawers, I will consider it though (I also looked into Waterloo with 10 drawers, but never saw one in real life)
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RTM
Well-known member
Here is my Remline box, posted in the (barely) vintage toolbox thread. Somebody's dad may have designed it, it was a very short lived one, based on catalogs. @gythoody ?
www.garagejournal.com
The VINTAGE toolboxes of Garage Journal!
I remember the days of heading to the scrap yard with a 55 gallon drum of scrap wire for the auto electrician. It was best if I was driving a cop car doing this.
www.garagejournal.com
TheRealZeus
Well-known member
I did the chest, & kept the original red in the drawers. The front of my drawers ain’t super pretty, but that is sorta deterrent, and also, I like it. If I were to try to replicate the job, I’d consider farm implement enamel red… but not the darker IH one…. Here;
Consider what is available to you locally. it is ok to stare at cans in the isle for a bit comparing. Mind the fumes. Go with your gut.
Thank you, TheRealZeus
This is my small addition from today: 1967 Mid box. .... The price was right and I did not notice couple of extra dents when I was buying it in a dark parking lot...
Unfortunately the box is not in a great shape. One of my concerns is that when I press on the right upper side from the side, the box twists a little (imagine top panel moving sideways a little). I suspect that may be the welding is not holding well? Thus I am not sure if it should be this way (Please correct me if I am wrong and mid boxes of RemLine twist a little) - thus it's probably not safe to put a fully filled chest on top of it.
I will keep the box for now - using it it in the future as either light duty without anything heavy on top or consideration for reinforcement in the future (? JB Weld metal angles from the inside (2 on top and 2 on the bottom near sides). Could be used for parts as well.
I am not sure what I am missing in image 5. May be it was a small cover protecting the lock? (there is a small metal bump there too which would hold cover from moving)
...The last picture is not mine - I just found this on the internet and wanted to preserve it for the future reference as this box has a 2 drawer insert in the bottom
... Let me know what you would do with the box I just got. Since I will be looking for a bottom roller and the chest, I figured out I should get started somewhere : )
This is my small addition from today: 1967 Mid box. .... The price was right and I did not notice couple of extra dents when I was buying it in a dark parking lot...
Unfortunately the box is not in a great shape. One of my concerns is that when I press on the right upper side from the side, the box twists a little (imagine top panel moving sideways a little). I suspect that may be the welding is not holding well? Thus I am not sure if it should be this way (Please correct me if I am wrong and mid boxes of RemLine twist a little) - thus it's probably not safe to put a fully filled chest on top of it.
I will keep the box for now - using it it in the future as either light duty without anything heavy on top or consideration for reinforcement in the future (? JB Weld metal angles from the inside (2 on top and 2 on the bottom near sides). Could be used for parts as well.
I am not sure what I am missing in image 5. May be it was a small cover protecting the lock? (there is a small metal bump there too which would hold cover from moving)
...The last picture is not mine - I just found this on the internet and wanted to preserve it for the future reference as this box has a 2 drawer insert in the bottom
... Let me know what you would do with the box I just got. Since I will be looking for a bottom roller and the chest, I figured out I should get started somewhere : )
Provincial
Well-known member
Bad spot welds can be repaired by spot welding or tig welding. To tig weld, drill from the accessible side through the top sheet, then fill the hole with weld.
It looks like there was a sheet metal cover behind the lock cylinder. Is there any evidence of the lock mechanism left? Just putting a replacement lock in the hole to fill it and not trying to replace the lock mechanism is one way to deal with the problem, as long as you don't need to lock it.
It looks like there was a sheet metal cover behind the lock cylinder. Is there any evidence of the lock mechanism left? Just putting a replacement lock in the hole to fill it and not trying to replace the lock mechanism is one way to deal with the problem, as long as you don't need to lock it.
Thank you, Provincial. As I cross posted, we are relying on 2 different threads : )
Thank you for the advise - I will definitely ask you more once I get to it (I do not know much about welding...), but your idea definitely sounds good. It's the twist of the box which bothers me - not sure if it will twist sideways if I put a heavy chest on top of it...
It will also need a touch of spreading on the bottom - the bottom front panel is slightly elevated in one spot and the lower drawer touches it when opening. Probably a wooden block and coupe of light taps with the hummer...
No lock mechanism left. I do not need to lock my boxes - they are at home...
Thank you for the advise - I will definitely ask you more once I get to it (I do not know much about welding...), but your idea definitely sounds good. It's the twist of the box which bothers me - not sure if it will twist sideways if I put a heavy chest on top of it...
It will also need a touch of spreading on the bottom - the bottom front panel is slightly elevated in one spot and the lower drawer touches it when opening. Probably a wooden block and coupe of light taps with the hummer...
No lock mechanism left. I do not need to lock my boxes - they are at home...
TheRealZeus
Well-known member
Agree with what Provincial said. Weld first.. JB weld is the last, final solution. I do not have the middle box, yet. Same factories 
so they’re made of the same thick gauge, meaning that you very well may “finesse” her back into full-working condition.
I would look into contacting someone who has the same middle two-drawer, and asking what they’re locking mechanism internals look like, if no plate present; ask if there any remnants of a cover plate for the inside of the drawer.
so they’re made of the same thick gauge, meaning that you very well may “finesse” her back into full-working condition. I would look into contacting someone who has the same middle two-drawer, and asking what they’re locking mechanism internals look like, if no plate present; ask if there any remnants of a cover plate for the inside of the drawer.RTM
Well-known member
I’m a bit of a klutz with a hammer.
I’d go real gentle here. I have some WW clamps I can reverse to spread things. I have also clamped down to a butcher block, spacing the box edge up to allow for overtravel. On one project, I used some blocks of wood, and two opposing wedges powered by a clamp for spreading force, to spread out an internal ding.
Gunfighter556
Well-known member
Shelbylex
Attached are some photos of the lock mechanism on my middleboxes, There should be a slot in the crossbar and the bottom of the top drawer for the lock bar to go through. I got a complete lockset with different size bars at my local locksmith. Hope this helps.
Attached are some photos of the lock mechanism on my middleboxes, There should be a slot in the crossbar and the bottom of the top drawer for the lock bar to go through. I got a complete lockset with different size bars at my local locksmith. Hope this helps.
Nice! Thank you, Gunfighter556! I just walked into the garage and found it!
Appreciate it!!!
The boxes with older emblems are definitely not common - especially 7 drawer bottom and 12 drawer top. I think my priority is going to be 7 (and if I get really lucky 7+2 or 10) drawer bottom. If I can get that, I will consider settling for 6 drawer top.
I wonder why factories do not make some of the cool old style toolboxes anymore... Probably would be nice to go to the store and have a chance to buy a brand new set...
Appreciate it!!!
The boxes with older emblems are definitely not common - especially 7 drawer bottom and 12 drawer top. I think my priority is going to be 7 (and if I get really lucky 7+2 or 10) drawer bottom. If I can get that, I will consider settling for 6 drawer top.
I wonder why factories do not make some of the cool old style toolboxes anymore... Probably would be nice to go to the store and have a chance to buy a brand new set...
Tynee
Well-known member
Shelbylex, there is a 12-drawer on my local FBMP right now, it's about an hour north of me, but I'd be happy to facilitate if there's a way I could help:
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Thank you, Tynee. I greatly appreciate it!
I will try to find something more local initially (so I could at least "touch" the box and get a feel from it. I am looking for the bottom 7, 7+2 or 10 drawer. Once I find it, it will be easier to locate the chest (I will be looking for 6 or 12 drawer one) and may be a new mid box
I know they exist! One of our members here, WMB67 (from Boston) has a great combo of 10 bottom and 12 top as one of his combos (he also has 3 drawer bottom and 6 drawer top)
PS. I will text him to see if he could ad some pictures
P.S. There is a combo in Braintree now, but it's 3+6
... Why did the 7 drawer from Buffalo did not show up when I was visiting the area last year? (though to be honest I did not look for it back then...)
I will try to find something more local initially (so I could at least "touch" the box and get a feel from it. I am looking for the bottom 7, 7+2 or 10 drawer. Once I find it, it will be easier to locate the chest (I will be looking for 6 or 12 drawer one) and may be a new mid box
I know they exist! One of our members here, WMB67 (from Boston) has a great combo of 10 bottom and 12 top as one of his combos (he also has 3 drawer bottom and 6 drawer top)
PS. I will text him to see if he could ad some pictures
P.S. There is a combo in Braintree now, but it's 3+6
... Why did the 7 drawer from Buffalo did not show up when I was visiting the area last year? (though to be honest I did not look for it back then...)
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Adding a catalog to the thread which gives dimensions of the boxest
I have one more question for members having 6 and 12 drawer chests: how deep are the top compartments? (trying to see if deep sockets will stand there (my KRA-56 is good for it, KRA-58B is a little shallow...)
Rem Line Tool Chests, Tool Cabinets : Rem Line Division : Free Download, Borrow, and Streaming : Internet Archive
5 p., illus., 27.9 cm, trade catalog
archive.org
I have one more question for members having 6 and 12 drawer chests: how deep are the top compartments? (trying to see if deep sockets will stand there (my KRA-56 is good for it, KRA-58B is a little shallow...)
Gunfighter556
Well-known member
Shelby
I have all my 3/8 drive sockets on top and they all fit well, My 1/2 inch stuff has to go in the bottom drawer of my top box as some of the deep wells are too tall to close the lid of the top box. I am not sure of the depth.
I have all my 3/8 drive sockets on top and they all fit well, My 1/2 inch stuff has to go in the bottom drawer of my top box as some of the deep wells are too tall to close the lid of the top box. I am not sure of the depth.
Gunfighter556
Well-known member
Question for Rem Line fans: is there an available replacement for Rem Line drawer slides? Got a lead on a box, but the owner says that multiple slides are bad. Asked for more info, but did not get the response yet...
... Period similar to WMB67 box set above
... Period similar to WMB67 box set above