I saw a similar post from a while back and didn't really see a definitive answer. The poster quit posting, so I'm starting a new one. I have a 1/2 hp 120vac 2-speed attic fan that draws about 5 amps on hi. It has a single hi-lo-off switch in a very inconvenient location. I would like to wire in a switch with wireless control and still be able to use the three functions of hi, lo and off. I have seen a ton of on/off remote control switches and low amp ceiling fan remotes. Some of the manufacturers of attic fans offer remote control, but they want you to buy their fan and most read as though they will only work with their fans. There must be a simple straight forward solution out there and hoped you guys might have a recommendation. Much appreciated.
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Remote Control 2-Speed Attic Fan
- Thread starter papatuel
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I have 3 similar fans, albeit single speed, running on Honeywell temperature sensors wired to the outlet. Have you considered that?
I want to go the next step, and get a temperature/humidity sensor setup that let's me tailor which gas are on based on conditions. Similar to your hi/low, I want to go 1/2/3 fans. Right now the 2 fans are set the same and one is 15F higher iirc.
I
I have 3 similar fans, albeit single speed, running on Honeywell temperature sensors wired to the outlet. Have you considered that?
I want to go the next step, and get a temperature/humidity sensor setup that let's me tailor which gas are on based on conditions. Similar to your hi/low, I want to go 1/2/3 fans. Right now the 2 fans are set the same and one is 15F higher iirc.
I
matt_i
Well-known member
Wireless? I think you'll have to resolve the switch function into that which can be controlled by relays which you then control wirelessly.
Personally, I believe that a faster cheaper solution would be to run the copper and just emulate the same switch functionality or relocate the actual switch.
The automation project sounds really good, I know and thus default to recommending PLCs but any automation controller could be used. I had a project like this in mind for a previous house which used the fans, I was going to get a thermal data acquisition "stick" for a single channel and use it to track actual temps and then monkey with my control strategy to try to get the temps as low as I could without simply wiring them ON HIGH 24 x 365.
Personally, I believe that a faster cheaper solution would be to run the copper and just emulate the same switch functionality or relocate the actual switch.
The automation project sounds really good, I know and thus default to recommending PLCs but any automation controller could be used. I had a project like this in mind for a previous house which used the fans, I was going to get a thermal data acquisition "stick" for a single channel and use it to track actual temps and then monkey with my control strategy to try to get the temps as low as I could without simply wiring them ON HIGH 24 x 365.
I did thing about the thermal switch, but it is actually a whole house fan in the attic. I should have clarified. Because my wife and I both work I don't want it to come on when the house is closed up during the day.
The idea of using relays is good and I've seen a number of wireless relays. I was hoping there was an easy plug and play option off the shelf. There are four wires going to the fan. A purple and black going to the two taps on the motor for hi and low, and the white common and green ground. I'm thinking I could wire the relay in parallel with the existing switch and have both manual switch remote wireless functions. I have to run that idea around in my head a bit, but I think it will work. What do you guys think?
The idea of using relays is good and I've seen a number of wireless relays. I was hoping there was an easy plug and play option off the shelf. There are four wires going to the fan. A purple and black going to the two taps on the motor for hi and low, and the white common and green ground. I'm thinking I could wire the relay in parallel with the existing switch and have both manual switch remote wireless functions. I have to run that idea around in my head a bit, but I think it will work. What do you guys think?
ard
Well-known member
Do you have any kind of remote switches now? Z wave or other?
Obviously it would be easy if you only use it on high (for example)...that reduces it to an on-off.
But there may be some suitable zwave modules...
Obviously it would be easy if you only use it on high (for example)...that reduces it to an on-off.
But there may be some suitable zwave modules...
AntonLargiader
Well-known member
I think the easiest thing to do would be to buy a system from a different fan maker and use it on your fan, if you can confirm that it functions the same way. If it just energizes two different 120V taps then it shouldn't really matter who makes the fan that it's hooked to. If the fan is somehow "smart" and talks to the switch, then that's different. This system looks compatible with many brands but it doesn't say if it will handle 5A.
I was thinking of ways to do it with standard wireless switch parts but nothing sounded good. If you had wireless switches that could be energized and remember that they are ON then you could use a traditional hi-lo fan wall switch to power two of them (which are left on and not visible) which would control the hi and lo windings and ensure that both aren't powered at the same time. BUT... many of them won't power up in the ON position. This article describes some choices: https://community.smartthings.com/t...after-a-power-outage-brand-differences/100598
Alternatively I was thinking you could use a wireless switch to power the fan circuit and a wireless 3-way to select the winding, but I'm not sure there is actually such thing as a wireless 3-way. Wireless switches tend to exist to simulate 3-way operation without requiring the additional wiring.
I was thinking of ways to do it with standard wireless switch parts but nothing sounded good. If you had wireless switches that could be energized and remember that they are ON then you could use a traditional hi-lo fan wall switch to power two of them (which are left on and not visible) which would control the hi and lo windings and ensure that both aren't powered at the same time. BUT... many of them won't power up in the ON position. This article describes some choices: https://community.smartthings.com/t...after-a-power-outage-brand-differences/100598
Alternatively I was thinking you could use a wireless switch to power the fan circuit and a wireless 3-way to select the winding, but I'm not sure there is actually such thing as a wireless 3-way. Wireless switches tend to exist to simulate 3-way operation without requiring the additional wiring.