To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Remote spin on filter and cooler conversion.

toglhot

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 20, 2021
Messages
153
Remote spin on filter and cooler.
This took a lot of work, I had to modify the right side engine cover, machine up a new cover for the now gone strainer, machine a spin on filter mount, fabricate some new engine mounts to hold the mount, fabricate a mount for the cooler, machine up a few stainless fittings for the mod, plus a few other bits and pieces.

I drilled and tapped the front of the sidecover. I hate jobs like this, there's always the fear of stuffing it up and ruining a part, but, all went well: drilled out the oil pump gallery to 10.8mm, tapped it to M12 x 1.25 for 40mm to cover the gallery to the old oil strainer, countersunk the top of the hole to allow for an O ring and inserted the stainless spigot I turned up, looks quite alright.
Whilst I had the cover off, I removed the kickstart mechanism and turned up a couple of bungs to cover the hole.

Next I binned the strainer cover and machined up a new one, which I think looks a lot better than just screwing a right angle, screw in fitting on the original part. Took a bit of doing this part as the outer side had to be angled to follow the angle of the side cover. Rather than use an ugly screw in fitting, I spun up a stainless barb and shrunk it in place.

Next came the spin on filter mount. I made this from a lump of 25mm ally, shaped it to the desired shape, drilled and tapped the side for mounting screws, then mounted it in the lathe to machine the oil gallery recess, once done I drilled a central hole for oil intake and a second hole through to the recess for the output. I then spun up a threaded piece on which to spin the filter, shrunk fit it into the housing, turned up a stainless, threaded barb, screwed it into the spin on filter threaded piece, sandwiching the filter mount between. There was insufficient space for a screw in output barb, so I spun up a barb for an interference fit and pressed it into place.

For my next trick I fabricated some new engine mounts on which to mount the filter mount and oil cooler. The engine mounts were basically the same as the original ones I made, the right has been extended downward around 25mm for the filter mount and both drilled and tapped at the front edge for mounting a cooler bracket.

The cooler bracket is just a piece of 3mm ally bent at a right angle so the cooler mounts on top. I had to cut some 10mm ally tube to fit between the cooler mounting fins and recess the mounting bracket holes a little so I could install some rubber grommets to insulate the cooler from vibration. To hold it in place I cut some 6mm bolts to size and spun up some threaded positive stop, ally T nuts.

Last of all, I polished everything - of course!
 

Attachments

  • tapping the side cover.jpg
    tapping the side cover.jpg
    164.3 KB · Views: 24
  • oil cooler and barbs.jpg
    oil cooler and barbs.jpg
    136.3 KB · Views: 24
  • engine mounts oil filter housing complete.jpg
    engine mounts oil filter housing complete.jpg
    163.3 KB · Views: 24
  • oil filter housing inner.jpg
    oil filter housing inner.jpg
    159.4 KB · Views: 24
  • oil filter housing outer.jpg
    oil filter housing outer.jpg
    114.2 KB · Views: 23
  • oil inlet cover inside comparo.jpg
    oil inlet cover inside comparo.jpg
    158.6 KB · Views: 23
  • oil inlet cover outer.jpg
    oil inlet cover outer.jpg
    208.9 KB · Views: 25
  • remote filter cooler fitted right.jpg
    remote filter cooler fitted right.jpg
    252.4 KB · Views: 27
  • remote filter cooler fitted right 2.jpg
    remote filter cooler fitted right 2.jpg
    234.8 KB · Views: 26
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
T

toglhot

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 20, 2021
Messages
153
Here's the Kickstarter bung I machined up. I removed the kickstart mechanism, machined up a two part bung and installed it. I'd never be able to kick it into life anyway, so no point in retaining it, Besides that, The PMA conversion I did ensures It'll never have a flat battery again.
 

Attachments

  • 233723552_3065482867045072_1383313058528733043_n.jpg
    233723552_3065482867045072_1383313058528733043_n.jpg
    119.8 KB · Views: 20
  • 233714942_3065482927045066_5611757397594605886_n.jpg
    233714942_3065482927045066_5611757397594605886_n.jpg
    161.2 KB · Views: 16
  • 233178883_3065483010378391_8139041359502836228_n.jpg
    233178883_3065483010378391_8139041359502836228_n.jpg
    146.6 KB · Views: 15
  • 233063901_3065483153711710_7168761392392930978_n.jpg
    233063901_3065483153711710_7168761392392930978_n.jpg
    173.1 KB · Views: 23
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Modern Garage

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 26, 2015
Messages
585
Location
Southern Minnesota
On the stainless parts pressed into aluminum housing do you use any other mechanical or chemical (adhesive) fastening to prevent loosening as the aluminum expands to temp? Or just sufficient interference?
The replacement cover for the original filter location is a work of art.
Joe
 
OP
T

toglhot

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 20, 2021
Messages
153
No adhesive required, not a lot of heat generated there, from memory I think the interference fit was around .15mm. It won't come loose.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom