Remote switch for compressor

[MrAbody]

Hi, love this forum, I am currently redoing my garage and its helped out quite a bit. I have looked in the archives but really didn't get an exact answer to a question that I have. I have had my 240V compressor connected to an outlet for years (240V on a 20 amp circuit with 12g wire) and I am moving it outside into a shed on the other side of my garage for the real estate and noise reduction.

I am trying to figure out what to use as a remote swtich if I want to turn it off without going into the shed. I am looking for the model and type of switch to use. I am going to replace the 12g with 10g wire and the run will be increased by only about 5 feet (its only on the other side of the wall from where it was.

Thanks in advance I appreciate it!

 

[Crusty Nut]

I just got a regular 30 amp switch and put it in a box in the wall.

 

[Aceman]

To do it right, buy a double pole motor/horsepower rated switch 20 or 30 amp depending on your circuit size.

It looks like a heavy duty light switch.

EDIT: Didn't notice you asked for a model. I know P&S(Pass and Seymour) make them. Probably Cooper as well. No model numbers, sorry. I know P&S has a website though.

 

[ron in sc]

Couldn't you use a service disconnect box, that's what I use. Mine has fast acting fuses inside.

 

[Mr_fixit]

What he said, a double pole 20 or 30 amp switch. Or I'd also use a breaker, if possible or convenient.

 

[ddawg16]

A couple of options.
The easiest is to use the 20A double breaker that you are feeding the compressor off anyway. Want to shut it off...switch the breaker off.

But just in case your breaker box is not a convient way to turn it on and off (and the fact that CB's are not really intended as on/off switches), see if there is a way you can remotely control the pressure switch on the compressor.

Since it's running off a 20A breaker, I am suspecting that the pressure switch controls it directly. Is there a way to tie into that pressure switch and run it to a switch inside the garage?

One important point....per code (and common sense), if the motor is out of site of the supply, you need a local disconnect at the compressor. In other words, you need a disconnect switch next to the compressor. Hence, you want to run your 240 V wires to a local box...and then into the compressor. You can get those at Home Depot or Lowes....it's a metal box with a handle on the side......or you can get by if you have the compressor plugged into a standard 240V plug. (Experts confirm?)

 

[Mr_fixit]

[/QUOTE]
One important point....per code (and common sense), if the motor is out of site of the supply, you need a local disconnect at the compressor. In other words, you need a disconnect switch next to the compressor. Hence, you want to run your 240 V wires to a local box...and then into the compressor. You can get those at Home Depot or Lowes....it's a metal box with a handle on the side......or you can get by if you have the compressor plugged into a standard 240V plug. (Experts confirm?)[/QUOTE]


um.. don't ALL compressors have a disconnect built into the pressure switch?

 

[ron in sc]

if the motor is out of site of the supply, you need a local disconnect at the compressor. In other words, you need a disconnect switch next to the compressor. Hence, you want to run your 240 V wires to a local box...and then into the compressor.

While my compressor is not out of sight of the circuit breaker box, the manufacter of my compressor recommended a 50 amp double pull 240 amp circuit breaker and then a disconnet box with fast acting fuses.

 

[Steve in Mi]

[/quote]um.. don't ALL compressors have a disconnect built into the pressure switch?[/quote]

No. Some pressure switches do have a manual reset.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

um.. don't ALL compressors have a disconnect built into the pressure switch?

Not by any means. The 50 ft, line of sight rule for a disconnect is in reference to hardwired compressors (or anything else hardwired). Plug in ones have a disconnect in the form of the plug and receptacle. Smaller compressors have a lever on the pressure switch that offsets the mechanicals in the switch to prevent it from closing, but this would not be considered a disconnect. On a hardwired compressor a disconnect would be in the line supplying it, at or very close to the compressor, that mechanically disconnects all "hot" wires to the unit.

What Aceman said is the best suggestion for having a switch next to the door going out of the garage. The original poster wants to be able to switch off the compressor at the same time he wants to turn off the lights. P&S makes both 20 and 30 amp motor rated "light" switches, that are double pole, single throw. I am using these on my multi-wire lighting circuit, largely because I got them cheap on a clearance.

Charles

 

[Derald Rice]

I am not an electrician, so please don't ask me for the details, but my electrican wired a relay into the 240 compressor circuit that ties it to the overhead lights. When I turn off the lights, the compressor is disconnected. Lights on is the only way the compressor circuit is energized. This way the compressor will not come on at odd hours of the night. Keeping the wife happy was an important part of my project.

 

[wilbilt]

If it has a magnetic starter, you can create a "control loop" for the starter relay. Multiple switches located anywhere you like, not switching a lot of current so heavy wire is not needed. Turn off any one switch, and the compressor stops.

Similar to the emergency stop circuits used in industrial applications.

 

[larry4406]

Relay off the light circuit is pretty slick.

 

[timgr]

Wall switch:

http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRI...opmainPcircularid=11264Ppagenumber=3438Pmode=

 

[Charles (in GA)]

Wall switch:

http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRI...opmainPcircularid=11264Ppagenumber=3438Pmode=

Home Depot has Pass and Seymour, 20 amp and 30 amp double pole and motor rated for less than this at regular price. I bought mine on a stock clearance for about $7 each, but they regularly run about $15 I think.

I would not one mine on the light switch, as during the day, I don't turn the lights on, don't need them, but sure would need the air compressor. Adjacent switch would be good enough for me.

Charles

 

[timgr]

Charles, you must have some fine HD store - the 3 HD stores in my area only have 120V residential lighting types. Local electrical supply probably has something similar to what you describe though.

 

[Charles (in GA)]

All of the HD stores I've been in, in the Atlanta area, have a huge P&S selection, of switches, receptacles (such as twist locks), and plugs, the odd stuff Leviton doesn't seem to have, and it's bunched all together, separate from the Leviton. It depends on the individual buyers for a particular store, as to what they keep in stock.

Charles